Author Topic: Poulon 3416 - How does the chain oiler work (or not!)  (Read 162 times)

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Offline ChainsawBob

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Poulon 3416 - How does the chain oiler work (or not!)
« on: April 14, 2017, 01:17:58 pm »
My little Poulon 3416 is not providing anywhere near enough chain oil and I am burning the bar. There's just a wisp of oil coming out where before it was at enough to keep the bar in shape. The saw is maybe five years old and doesn't usually cut more than a few hours a year... with one year where probably did fifteen hours.

I drained the bar oil, refilled with a thin oil, washed around, and drained again, hoping to clear anything in the reservoir. I cleaned under the bar and all around that area, blowing it dust/chip free and very clean. I found that little hole in the slot under the pressed sheet metal chain guide where I guess oil is supposed to come out and lube the chain and I cleaned that. I even blew some air into that hole... it gushed an ounce back out the hole when I stopped.  But, it still doesn't oil the chain properly when running.

How does this oiler work? Is there some sort of pump in there? Is it strictly gravity feed? What the relationship between the little hose that plugs in at the bottom under the chain area and the hole/slot where it looks like it's supposed to oil the chain?  And for testing: should it oil the chain when I just rotate it by hand or must the saw be running for it to deliver oil?

Thanks for any insight. I'm very mechanical, but I don't know much about chainsaws, as you might be able to tell! Let me know what to try.

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Online Efisher26

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The pump is usually behind the clutch, the pump is driven by the crank shaft by a worm gear of sorts. I don't know specifics of the 3416


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Offline Cut4fun .

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There is a metal spring worm gear that turns on the crank that turns the nylon oil pump gear.  Many times trash gets behind this area and it stops it and strips out the nylon gear.

Also check this first. The strainer screen in the oil tank clean it and check and make sure oil tube is clear of fines and blockage to oiler.  Then to bar oil mount area.

All this is easy to do. Takes pics so you know how it all goes back.


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Offline ChainsawBob

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Thanks boys. I will dig in and see what's what.

Where is the strainer? Down inside the tank? Or is that something I will see when I pull the pump?

Offline Cut4fun .

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Inside the oil tank. Spring type deal or a strainer on end of line in tank.
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Offline ChainsawBob

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Digging in finally.... are there and popular methods for removing the clutch without having the proper chainsaw clutch tool? I understand about locking the piston.

I'd buy one if I expected to do this more than once in five years, but if I could avoid that it would be good. But I don't want to damage the clutch by using the wrong technique... no sense making this harder than it needs to be.

Thanks,

Offline Cut4fun .

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Bring piston past ports. Put some pull cord inside cylinder. Now try and take piston to the top and it should stop beforehand.
Take a punch and hammer and hit clutch support ( NOT SHOE ) clockwise off to the right.
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Offline Cut4fun .

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I got one down right now waiting on oiler and worm gear. $8.95 shipped.

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Offline ChainsawBob

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Got it, thanks. 

The pump gear looks fine. Pump seems OK from what I can see, no visible wear?

So, it has to be the strainer?  Is there any way to get to that from outside, short of splitting the whole case?


Offline Cut4fun .

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Make sure the nylon gear on oiler turns easy and no flat spot.

See the pic of mine start pulling on the rubber part straight out and thinking stainer and all will come with it. No splitting cases on the plastic saw.

Rubber the pump slides into.


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