Author Topic: Pouan Pro 222  (Read 193 times)

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Offline Spit

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Pouan Pro 222
« on: May 16, 2014, 11:50:30 pm »
I am new to this forum, enjoy working on small engines, in a lot of cases something someone is pitching out or something that they don't want or need anymore.  Recently picked up a Poulan Pro 222 16 inch saw.  I was able to get it to run and it seems to run great but it seems to excessively oil the bar when running and leak oil after it is shut off.  By excessive I mean, that I left it idling for 5 mins. chain not turning at all and got a nice little pool of oil under the saw.

Can anyone tell me if there is a fix for this and how I would go about it. 

Also how and what do you use to remove the clutch.  Do I need a special tool or is there a way to make do with something else?  Looks like I might need to remove the clutch to get to the oiler



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Re: Pouan Pro 222
« Reply #1 on: May 17, 2014, 01:18:12 am »
There is a tool for the clutch that can easily be found on eBay.    It has two pins that fit the indentations on the clutch.   
Or you could take an old socket and make one yourself.   

I have the tool and put a socket on it and with a 3/8ths impact and I remove the clutch.   

The only other way would be to take a flat punch with a hammer and punch the clutch to break it loose.   

Don't forget left hand thread on the clutch.

I do not believe there is any adjustments to those oilers.    You could try and replace it to see if it is any better or just live with it the way it is.
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Offline Cut4fun

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Re: Pouan Pro 222
« Reply #2 on: May 17, 2014, 08:30:19 am »
Like Roger says and just adding more stuff for looking at.   

Poulan 222 IPL

OEM tool 530031112  please make sure I put right part #, not awake.

99% of the time I dont use the rope in cylinder anymore and just impact.  Not my video. Just showing  the OEM tool.
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Offline Spit

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Re: Pouan Pro 222
« Reply #3 on: May 17, 2014, 11:55:42 am »
     Thank you both for the timely replies.  I am going to order the removal tool today. I guess I can decide later if I want to replace the oiler or live with it as is.  I  read a few posts that said it is pretty common with these oilers and unless Poulan has come up with an improved version of it, or some creative technican has come up with a fix, it may not be worth it. 

A quote attributed to Henry Ford (who was the Steve Jobs and or the Bill Gates of his day) was that he did not care for engineers because they just told him why what he wanted done couldn't be done..he liked technicans because they just found a way to get it done.

Nice to find a forum run by and contributed to by technicans.
Thanks again


Offline leec

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Re: Pouan Pro 222
« Reply #4 on: June 05, 2014, 08:19:38 pm »
The oil pump on this saw runs with the clutch not the chain so as long as the motor is running it will put out oil.  Also it may continue to put out oil after the motor is stopped as pressure can build up in the oil tank and keep the oil flowing.  I always just crack open the oil cap after use this stops the after-flow at least.

Welcome to the forum there are some great guys here, with loads of help. ;)


Offline brokenbudget

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Re: Pouan Pro 222
« Reply #5 on: June 05, 2014, 09:48:34 pm »
lee, on these the oil tanks do not get pressurised. the pump does just that. pumps oil out of the tank and in fact puts the oil tank under a small amount of vacuum. that's why the tank is vented. 'cracking' the cap open does nothing for these. if the saw is leaving oil everywhere it's time to check the area where the oiler seals up against the line and line area. if these little saws have been used much and are full of saw dust, combined with the way the exhaust exits the rear of the muffler (badly), the case warps a bit. most times a new line/grommet will seal up, but there have been a few on my bench I've had to use sealant to stop the oil flow. quite honestly, the oilers are extremely reliable on these. much more so then the little stihl cheapies. they don't block, they'll pump rocks if you let them ;) not plug at the sight of something slightly thicker than water...
when changing the crank seals on these, you need to be careful that you get the little wire 'gear' pretty much exactly right. it's easy to have the gaps uneven, too closed or too open. this will be the only time you'll have issues if you don't get that right.
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