Author Topic: Poulan S25 crank seal  (Read 717 times)

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Offline Al Smith

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Re: S-25 crank seal
« Reply #20 on: January 16, 2013, 07:25:39 pm »
Yeah some times that stuff gets superceded with another number .Most of us have those IPL's that might be 30 plus years old . Like Stihl ,I think mine go up to maybe the late 90's but that's 20 years ago .Doesn't seem that long ago but time does fly ya know .

On the subject though I think with generic size excluding those bastard sized Stihl seals you could find them for just about anything .

Now in a genaral conversation of seals the last Stihl seals I got from a dealer were a bluish color .I speculate they might be a different material to combat ethanol deteriation .I wonder with that in mind if those might be a different number than the older traditional black buna -n seals .

Offline Eccentric

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Re: S-25 crank seal
« Reply #21 on: July 13, 2015, 05:55:29 pm »
Update:

The Poulan 530019051 seals are now NLA (as of last Summer).  SKF/CR-5510 is a good aftermarket replacement.  National/Timken 313156 is a good # too (and is available through many auto parts outlets). 
-Aaron

For older saws:
Tune the H side so that it 4-strokes (burbles) at WOT unloaded and just cleans up when under load.
When you lift cutting load, the saw should immediately revert to 4-stroking.  Fine tune the transition point for the wood you're cutting.
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Online 3000 FPS

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Re: S-25 crank seal
« Reply #22 on: July 19, 2015, 12:23:20 am »
Update:

The Poulan 530019051 seals are now NLA (as of last Summer).  SKF/CR-5510 is a good aftermarket replacement.  National/Timken 313156 is a good # too (and is available through many auto parts outlets). 

Good to know Aaron thanks for posting that.
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Offline Eccentric

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Re: S-25 crank seal
« Reply #23 on: July 19, 2015, 01:12:44 am »
HVA 'obsoleting' these seals really pissed me off.  I have about 5-7 or so (funny that I can't remember the exact # right now.....too many projects) XXV variants waiting for crank seals (I won't put an old saw back in service without doing seals anymore).  Tried last year to order enough 530019051's to do the whole lot, and got my money refunded for them during the process.  I'm mostly annoyed with myself for not ordering a bunch of these seals earlier when they were still a stocking Poulan/Husky part...

For some reason, the SKF/CR 5510 and National 313156 seals are somewhat expensive........................and special order items.  Strange, since they come up as a transfer case and MT shift shaft seal for many vehicles.  Hmmmm.......that reminds me that I have an NOS Ford TC rebuild kit in a box of parts in the shop.  Wonder if I have a couple XXV series seals waiting on hand after all......
-Aaron

For older saws:
Tune the H side so that it 4-strokes (burbles) at WOT unloaded and just cleans up when under load.
When you lift cutting load, the saw should immediately revert to 4-stroking.  Fine tune the transition point for the wood you're cutting.
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Offline Al Smith

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Re: S-25 crank seal
« Reply #24 on: July 19, 2015, 07:12:22 am »
That damned little saw about drove me bonkers .It's been banned to the shelf until I regain my composuer which might be forever.

That little bastage back fired and caught fire on me three times so far .I don't know if its' the reed,screwed up carb or what it is.It's been on the shelf for at least two years and I'm not over my mad on yet . >:(

Offline 660magnum

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Re: S-25 crank seal
« Reply #25 on: July 19, 2015, 08:38:20 am »
The reed has to be leaking. Go in there and turn it over?
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Offline Cut4fun .

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Re: S-25 crank seal
« Reply #26 on: July 19, 2015, 10:49:18 am »
I got a reed etc if needed Al.  Off S25DA

Saving more info from hotshot  =  Poulan 530019059 micro series seals are the exact same as Homelite Super 2 & XL2 part number 94638.

About half the price are the SKF 4913 equivalents from the bearing hardware houses like Motion Industries or Fastenal.
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Offline Al Smith

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Re: S-25 crank seal
« Reply #27 on: July 19, 2015, 11:25:15 am »
I already flipped the reed to no avail.Oh I'll get back on  it and figure it out----some day . ;) Not a big deal as I have two good runner S-25 models,two MS 200T Stihls and another small Poulan to act as climbing saws .In addition to several light weight rear handles models that are real handy for bucket truck work .--I haven't flew a bucket for 2-3 years .

Offline Eccentric

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Re: S-25 crank seal
« Reply #28 on: July 19, 2015, 11:03:00 pm »
Maybe the flywheel key sheared and the timing's off now?
-Aaron

For older saws:
Tune the H side so that it 4-strokes (burbles) at WOT unloaded and just cleans up when under load.
When you lift cutting load, the saw should immediately revert to 4-stroking.  Fine tune the transition point for the wood you're cutting.

Offline Al Smith

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Re: S-25 crank seal
« Reply #29 on: July 20, 2015, 08:04:45 am »
I don't think it's the key .I had the flywheel off,replaced both seals etc ,seemed okay.Switched carbs from a known good runner.switched coils ,no dice .

This is an early model with an aluminum muffler .Loads up badly,ignites the spent fuel ,poof fire in the hole .You'd be surprised how how far you can fling a fired up little chainsaw when that happens . ;D

I've got three of these little saws .My original I bought new,Dayton has a steel muffler ,this on an aluminum muff and another with just an exhaust stub pipe .Two of three run just fine .

Interesting to note these things weigh about the same as Stihl O20AV top handle and cut at nearly the same speed maybe a tad faster .

 

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