Author Topic: Saw timing  (Read 241 times)

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Offline rls8836

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Saw timing
« on: March 11, 2017, 08:42:34 pm »
I have a Poulan 3314 2008 yr. model with a 14" bar. It will jerk the pull cord out of your hand trying to crank it. Hurts quite a bit when it does. Anyway it won't start. What causes this and can I repair it myself at home? Thanks

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Offline fossil

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Re: Saw timing
« Reply #1 on: March 11, 2017, 08:54:05 pm »
There's a good chance the flywheel key has sheared off and the flywheel moved out of position changing the timing. You will need to pull the flywheel and see if the key (likely cast into the flywheel) has sheared off.

If it has, make sure there is no oil in the flywheel bore or on the crankshaft. Line the keyway in the crankshaft up with the flywheel sheared key and tighten it down to get the timing back where it should be. I believe the torque on the flywheel nut (If it's an M8, is 12 - 14 ft lbs). It will run fine without the key. If you feel you have to have a key in there you will have to replace the flywheel.
The saw may have a separate key which you can replace.

Make sure the hub of the flywheel is not fractured or c-r-a-c-ked (that word edited out by a prudish checker) the flywheel could come apart under speed with dangerous results.
Tim
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Offline rls8836

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Re: Saw timing
« Reply #2 on: March 11, 2017, 09:01:03 pm »
Fossil I did pull flywheel this evening, it looks to me the flywheel has its own molded notch aligning it with the crank. I see no sign where a flywheel key may go.

Offline rls8836

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Re: Saw timing
« Reply #3 on: March 11, 2017, 09:10:13 pm »
Fossil can I buy the flywheel? Reckon what it may cost?

Offline fossil

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Re: Saw timing
« Reply #4 on: March 11, 2017, 09:18:12 pm »
They are about $20. Check the IPL for your model. The label should tell you whether or not it's a type 1 or type 2. The may be the same.

I assume the cast in key in the flywheel is sheared off on yours and the flywheel has moved counter clockwise on the crank. If not, and the coil is properly mounted I am at a loss what it could be.
Tim

Offline rls8836

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Re: Saw timing
« Reply #5 on: March 11, 2017, 09:23:58 pm »
Fossil can you set the air gap between flywheel and coil? What setting if you might know. The flywheel really appears to me to be ok thought air gap might be off throwing timing off!

Offline fossil

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Re: Saw timing
« Reply #6 on: March 11, 2017, 09:45:44 pm »
That usually won't affect timing at all if it's screwed on in place. Spec clearance is .020 between the laminations on the coil to the flywheel magnets.

The only other issue I can possibly think of is that the saw may be flooding badly due to an unseated metering needle in the carb causing it to hydro lock.

The best way to test if that's the case is to pull the starter handle over several times with the on / off switch in the OFF position. If it does "kick back" with the ignition off, that's what may be happening.
Tim

Offline rls8836

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Re: Saw timing
« Reply #7 on: March 11, 2017, 09:49:04 pm »
Thanks will check in the morning.

Offline fossil

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Re: Saw timing
« Reply #8 on: March 11, 2017, 09:50:15 pm »
Check edit to my last post re hydro locking.
Tim

Online Fishnuts2

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Re: Saw timing
« Reply #9 on: March 11, 2017, 09:51:20 pm »
I just place a business card between the flywheel magnets and the coil.  Loosen the coil mounting bolts and let the magnets draw the coil to the flywheel.  Tighten the coil bolts and you should be good to go on that end.

 

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