Author Topic: Need tuning / plug choice help for Pacific Northwest US  (Read 1484 times)

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Offline MindFork

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Thanks for moving this.  I wasn't sure if I should post it here or in the how to forum.  I ordered 6 WS5E plugs from Northwood saw.

In thinking about my tuning issues last night, I remembered that some high power turbo cars use water-injection to mix a small amount of vaporized water into the combustion chamber to reduce ping.  Small amounts of water vapor are actually combustible, so they have to lean out the fuel coming in to balance the equation.

I think that something similar is happening here.  The air is saturated with water and that vapor combusts causing an over-rich condition both at idle and WOT.  I have WOT tuned nicely, at least to my ear, so I think I will just lean out the L, make sure it's still accelerating correctly and that it doesn't make H too lean, then check it with a tach at my local shop.

Offline Cut4fun .

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If you lean out the L your idle will pick up. So you might need to back out I idle screw afterwords if you chain is rotating after L has been leaned out.
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Offline MindFork

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I'll start off by leaning L to where it just barely speeds up the idle and dial down the throttle to balance it out.  Then check acceleration and WOT to make sure it's still 4stroking without load.

Lots of rain so far today, so maybe tomorrow.

Offline jmester

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Are your high and low speed screws dependent or independent of each other. If there are independent then your L speed setting will not effect the high speed setting. Any thoughts on lowering the metering lever a tad to lessen the amount of fuel going to the carb. Even with it 4 stroking on the top by ear you can still be a 1000 rpm off or more. At tach saves a lot of time in the long run. Are you at a high elevation there?
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Offline MindFork

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Are your high and low speed screws dependent or independent of each other. If there are independent then your L speed setting will not effect the high speed setting. Any thoughts on lowering the metering lever a tad to lessen the amount of fuel going to the carb. Even with it 4 stroking on the top by ear you can still be a 1000 rpm off or more. At tach saves a lot of time in the long run. Are you at a high elevation there?
Well, they are two different screws, so I'm going to say independent...?  I just read somewhere that the amount of fuel in the L jet has an effect (albeit a small one) on the fuel available at WOT.  But maybe that's just internet myth. 

Not very high elevation -- about 480 feet on my property which is on a hill.  I'm probably going to get a tach soon.  I like the idea of tuning by ear, but I don't like fouling my plugs...

Offline jmester

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The fuel circuit in side the carb make them independent/dependent.  I know you said you where getting a tach. So hear is how I became better at tuning by ear. Hook up the tach and begin to make the H speed leaner or richer and take note where the rpm is. Maybe go from like 10,000 rpm to 14 or 15000. Make a mental note of the engine sound at different rpm, after a while you will be a lot closer with your idle and high speed as a result. Just thought I would throw it out there. I don't think I am to far off from your elevation just on the other coast.       Cut what carb is on this saw?
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Offline Old Iron Logging

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If it were still my saw it would never see a Bosch plug. Here it liked NGK and 15,000 plus for work. Why buy a ported saw and run it too rich? Run it like it was built to run.

As far as air moisture, it ran here in 90-98% humidity just fine. What are you using for basic carb settings?



Offline MindFork

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If it were still my saw it would never see a Bosch plug. Here it liked NGK and 15,000 plus for work. Why buy a ported saw and run it too rich? Run it like it was built to run.

As far as air moisture, it ran here in 90-98% humidity just fine. What are you using for basic carb settings?
Which NGK did you run?  I have a BPMR8Y I can put in it.  Kevin ran it with the German-made bosch w5se.  I have had good luck with their German made plugs, but not so much their chinese/indian stuff.

I left the carb as it came to me from Kevin.  When I noticed the wet-fouling, I leaned the H a bit.  I am going to do some cutting and tuning today with leaner L and probably lean the H a bit more.

Jason:  Thanks, I will do that as soon as I get a tach.

Offline Old Iron Logging

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Use a BPMR7A. Mix a good oil at 40:1. Set it at 15,000 to 15,500. Keep it clean and sharp.
Want to kill it with kindness ? Mix too heavy and run too rich. It will die for sure.

As for Bosch plugs (even the German ones) at the shop they go in 2 places. 1 place is Stihl powerheads, the other is the garbage can.

Nothing against Bosch just has its place. Every new Stihl that comes from the factory with a NGK plug, the plug goes in the trash. Out with NGK in with Bosch.

Offline MindFork

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Use a BPMR7A. Mix a good oil at 40:1. Set it at 15,000 to 15,500. Keep it clean and sharp.
Want to kill it with kindness ? Mix too heavy and run too rich. It will die for sure.

As for Bosch plugs (even the German ones) at the shop they go in 2 places. 1 place is Stihl powerheads, the other is the garbage can.

Nothing against Bosch just has its place. Every new Stihl that comes from the factory with a NGK plug, the plug goes in the trash. Out with NGK in with Bosch.
NGK for Japanese saws, Bosch for german / euro ones.  Tune redmax for 15k and let it rip.  Got it.  (I was already running 40:1, so I got that one right :) )

I leaned the L a lot and have been leaning the H in increments.  It still has room to go leaner, but my plug is a nice tan/brown color right now.  As soon as I get a tach, or access to one, I will see where I'm at and go to 15k. 

Thanks,
Cameron


 

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