Author Topic: How do you buck large rounds. (Read 1335 times)

3000 FPS · « **Reply #10 on:** April 09, 2014, 07:18:59 pm »

Quote from: Gatekeeper on April 09, 2014, 08:00:23 am

Depending on how the log is laying I go across the top and then bring it back to me to finish the cut. I have had to walk around one log even with a 42". It was a little over 60".

Wow big log.

Al Smith · « **Reply #11 on:** April 09, 2014, 07:46:03 pm »

I use wedges if I need them .Also block under so it doesn't pinch .Not saying it always works 100 percent of the time though .

I try to salvage as much as I can into decent saw logs .The rest some times you can buck maybe 10 feet partly through and cut loose and roll with a cant hook.I'm talking 18-20 inch stuff not 3 feet thick . It would take superman to roll 36" of white oak ten feet long in soggy woods ground .

3000 FPS · « **Reply #12 on:** April 09, 2014, 07:54:25 pm »

The biggest I have rolled so far was a cottonwood round that was 40" across and 6 ft long. I hammered the hook into the bark so it would not slip out and then put all the weight into it. It is amazing what can be moved with the right leverage.

Al Smith · « **Reply #13 on:** April 09, 2014, 09:00:40 pm »

It's unusual to get into stuff much over 24" in diameter .Every so often a big one comes along.

This picture is one of those rare occasions .63" at the cut EAB killed ash .Two this size myself and the guy in the picture bucked up .He with a 660 and 36" bar me with a souped 038 Mag and a 32" .Those pieces are right at 1800 pounds each more or less . Two pieces would be right at a cord of firewood .That was the largest I ever bucked .

3000 FPS · « **Reply #14 on:** April 09, 2014, 09:16:49 pm »

That is a cool pic there Al and those are some big rounds. It is amazing that some of those rounds could weigh 1800lbs. Just shows how careful you have to be when working with some of this stuff.

super44 · « **Reply #15 on:** April 11, 2014, 01:10:23 pm »

Quote from: Al Smith on April 09, 2014, 09:00:40 pm

It's unusual to get into stuff much over 24" in diameter .Every so often a big one comes along.

This picture is one of those rare occasions .63" at the cut EAB killed ash .Two this size myself and the guy in the picture bucked up .He with a 660 and 36" bar me with a souped 038 Mag and a 32" .Those pieces are right at 1800 pounds each more or less . Two pieces would be right at a cord of firewood .That was the largest I ever bucked .

That was one BIG tree. I have an under used Mac 125 with a 54 inch bar on it. It's kind of cute so I keep it around.

Lets see if this works

3000 FPS · « **Reply #16 on:** April 11, 2014, 01:59:00 pm »

That is pretty cool and should not have any problems with big trees.

jmester · « **Reply #17 on:** April 11, 2014, 09:02:06 pm »

I start from the far side with the saw straight up and down then cut back towards myself. Until I am about 1/3 to a half threw the log. Then pull the saw out and cut down from the top. If the log is under tension it will start to close up the top cut. Pull the saw out and bore cut the remaining wood below the top cut. You can also under cut the remaining wood if you can get the saw under the log. Just remember if under tension you have to cut enough for the top cut to close up tight, for it to work right.Works well and you don't have to carry a wedge with you. Just make sure when you are cutting the far side that your bar cuts the wood on the bottom of the log. Learned this from a logging buddy so you don't tare the wood or pull the center. Or I will cut down one side then walk around and cut the other.

3000 FPS · « **Reply #18 on:** April 11, 2014, 09:24:56 pm »

Quote from: jmester on April 11, 2014, 09:02:06 pm

I start from the far side with the saw straight up and down then cut back towards myself. Until I am about 1/3 to a half threw the log. Then pull the saw out and cut down from the top. If the log is under tension it will start to close up the top cut. Pull the saw out and bore cut the remaining wood below the top cut. You can also under cut the remaining wood if you can get the saw under the log. Just remember if under tension you have to cut enough for the top cut to close up tight, for it to work right.Works well and you don't have to carry a wedge with you. Just make sure when you are cutting the far side that your bar cuts the wood on the bottom of the log. Learned this from a logging buddy so you don't tare the wood or pull the center. Or I will cut down one side then walk around and cut the other.

That sounds interesting especially, like you said if you have enough room at the bottom to get the saw in there without hitting the dirt.

What if the log is laying flat on dirt and no room at the bottom to cut through with out rolling it. That is typical of what I end up with.

jmester · « **Reply #19 on:** April 11, 2014, 09:54:08 pm »

If it is just resting on the ground some of the time it will just snap if there is enough tension because when the top of the cut is pinched together there is a lot of pressure trying to split the bottom out. If if is buried in the ground a bit. The method does not work as well. You would have to roll it over or just use the tip of the bar and go easy. Easier to show then it is for me to put into words. If you are cutting up trees that you have felled you may want to lay out some cribbing to hold the log up off the ground. I do that often when the trees are 28" and bigger just to make it easier to cut up and don't have to worry about getting into the dirt.

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Author Topic: How do you buck large rounds. (Read 1335 times)

3000 FPS

Re: How do you buck large rounds.

Al Smith

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3000 FPS

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Al Smith

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3000 FPS

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super44

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3000 FPS

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jmester

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3000 FPS

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jmester

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