Author Topic: 024 rebuild top end  (Read 368 times)

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Offline leec

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Re: 024 rebuild top end
« Reply #10 on: May 14, 2018, 01:59:53 pm »
So just sent my third order to Huztl as I'm not a Stihl guy so missed some needed bits and pieces.  The last one was the piston wrist pin roller bearing, certainly won't run without. So the wait goes on.
Pretty impressed with the Farmertec cylinder, comparing to the OEM (which is toast). Oddly Huztl didn't seem to list a fuel line for the 024?

Offline Al Smith

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Re: 024 rebuild top end
« Reply #11 on: May 17, 2018, 05:19:15 am »
Just for general info .Those torx head metric bolts are about a buck a pop at a Stihl dealer .You can order them through Northwood saw for about 1/4 that .I usually buy about 20 at a time .The web site is little tricky to navigate but you can find the size if you look long enough  .Fill out an order form on line then confirm and pay for it with a telephone call .

Offline HolmenTree

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Re: 024 rebuild top end
« Reply #12 on: May 17, 2018, 10:45:22 am »
Speaking of those Stihl torx head screws, I just changed the upper right hand spring mount on my Husqvarna 562XP.
 Used a Allen head wrench to get the old mount off, but with the main screen  embedded inside the new spring the darn thing wouldn't screw in with the Allen head.
Low and behold it was a torx head, not sure if it had the Stihl type lock teeth though.

At any rate Husqvarna should not stop there with that one screw....replace them all ;D
Making a living with a saw since age 16.

Offline Al Smith

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Re: 024 rebuild top end
« Reply #13 on: May 17, 2018, 04:46:38 pm »
I was not aware Stihl used serrated head torx screws .They did however use serrated belleville type washers though on some models ,namely 200T muffler bolts

Offline HolmenTree

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Re: 024 rebuild top end
« Reply #14 on: May 20, 2018, 01:12:40 am »
I was not aware Stihl used serrated head torx screws .They did however use serrated belleville type washers though on some models ,namely 200T muffler bolts
:o
Al, everyone knows Stihl uses serrated torx screws. Over 40 years and counting Hahahaha
Making a living with a saw since age 16.

Offline Al Smith

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Re: 024 rebuild top end
« Reply #15 on: May 22, 2018, 08:53:54 pm »
I've got a box full someplace.I'll have to look see .Fact I'll look right now,BRB ----

Offline leec

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Re: 024 rebuild top end
« Reply #16 on: May 22, 2018, 10:58:16 pm »
Just waiting for the wrist pin bearing and a fuel line on the 024.  Once together I'll need to look for a bar and chain, probably 16" .325 x 63. After looking all over town for a long thin T27 my local Stihl dealer gave me one that looks like an allen key, FREE.

Offline leec

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Re: 024 rebuild top end
« Reply #17 on: May 23, 2018, 02:10:34 pm »
Crappo! I ordered the wrong P&C the one for the shorter stroke engine so I'll order again.  Might as well go for the 026 P&C, it'e longer shaft and bigger bore than the straight 024.  Mine is a 024 Super with the longer stroke. Drat!
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Offline leec

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Re: 024 rebuild top end
« Reply #18 on: June 13, 2018, 02:39:40 pm »
So finally got all my bits; 026 P&C, decomp, etc.  Had a hell of a time getting the rubber bellows onto the cylinder intake. Saw would not start. New filter and line carb set 1 1/4 and 1. Not sure about my comp tester but only seemed to get a 80 psi. Chinese de-comp leaking as well as the oEM fuel cap.  replaced those at my local dealer, didn't want to wait another 4 weeks.
 trickled some fuel into the carb and it started Actually just sealed the decomp. not really needed on a 47cc saw.

The AF that came with this saw doesn't the tab the the AF cover latches onto so it remains loose.  Have to get a different air filter.

Huztl top cover not a great fit without tweeking and sadly no place for the nice Stihl Super 024 plate.

I have a Huztl P&C for a standard 024 if anyone needs one.

I have an old solid nose bar from my o31av but need a .325 chain, although I guess I could run the 3/8th on it with a new sprocket

Offline leec

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Re: 024 rebuild top end
« Reply #19 on: September 22, 2018, 03:37:36 pm »
Help Needed

Saw now wont start so ordered a new carb along with the proper air filter with tab. So how does the carb come off? I can't seem to manage to disconnect the throttle rod which is holding the carb on the saw. Almost the same price as a carb kit!!!

 

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