Author Topic: Break In and Synthetic oil  (Read 1529 times)

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Offline riverrocket

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Break In and Synthetic oil
« on: February 07, 2013, 01:02:18 am »
I Was Reading the other day, An after Market cylinder manufacturer  Recommended Not Using Synthetic Two Stroke oil During The Break In period after a rebuild, They recommended using a petroleum based oil so the rings would seat properly? I've bought a few new saws over the last few years, most recently a 460 and my dealer always gave me a six pack of Fully Synthetic oil with my new saws and they always seem to break in ok. When that 460 broke in it was amazing, on about the 7th or 8th tank of fuel it just came alive. I only use Fully synthetic, Stihl oil in all my saws, so now i'm wondering if i should be using None synthetic after a rebuild?

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Offline 660magnum

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Re: Break In and Synthetic oil
« Reply #1 on: February 07, 2013, 01:08:16 am »
Stay with your Stihl Ultra like you have been doing.
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Offline Cut4fun .

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Re: Break In and Synthetic oil
« Reply #2 on: March 10, 2013, 07:16:20 pm »
I'm breaking in 3 new saws 545 550 5020 with 100%  Synthetic. Heck the new 5020 poulan come with Synthetic oil.

Offline Al Smith

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Re: Break In and Synthetic oil
« Reply #3 on: March 16, 2013, 05:23:31 am »
I don't think it makes a whole lot of difference .They used to ship new car engines with "break in oil " which is just a little STP type stuff .You ran it for 500-1000 miles then changed it .They stopped doing that about 10 years ago .

If I rebuild a saw engine I run it a tad rich for a few tanks then lean it out .Weather that makes any difference I really can't say .

Offline 660magnum

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Re: Break In and Synthetic oil
« Reply #4 on: March 16, 2013, 05:36:53 am »
Use whatever oil at the ratio you are going to use from the beginning
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Offline Al Smith

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Re: Break In and Synthetic oil
« Reply #5 on: March 16, 2013, 07:11:57 pm »
Well yeah ,I just set the carb a bit richer on a rebuild for a short time .Oil ratio stays the same .

Offline farmboy

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Re: Break In and Synthetic oil
« Reply #6 on: March 16, 2013, 09:24:40 pm »
Well yeah ,I just set the carb a bit richer on a rebuild for a short time .Oil ratio stays the same .
Same here.  I use what synthetic oil I have.  Right now it's Husky XP cause I got a lot of it.  I too am old school 32:1.
Shep

Offline riverrocket

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Re: Break In and Synthetic oil
« Reply #7 on: March 17, 2013, 02:08:09 pm »

I know that you can ruin a saw/cylinder by running them too rich for too long, carbon build up on the cylinder, piston, and between the rings, do you guys see many saws/cylinders ruined this way?
And how would you know that a rich condition for too long is what caused a failure?
I’ve tore some saws down that had a lot of carbon build up with scored piston/cylinder and always assumed that they were run lean,  could they have scored the cylinder and piston because of carbon build up on the rings?

Offline Cut4fun .

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Re: Break In and Synthetic oil
« Reply #8 on: March 17, 2013, 02:54:28 pm »

I know that you can ruin a saw/cylinder by running them too rich for too long, carbon build up on the cylinder, piston, and between the rings, do you guys see many saws/cylinders ruined this way?
And how would you know that a rich condition for too long is what caused a failure?
I’ve tore some saws down that had a lot of carbon build up with scored piston/cylinder and always assumed that they were run lean,  could they have scored the cylinder and piston because of carbon build up on the rings?


Just because you run a saw at 32:1 dont make it running rich.  If thats what you are trying to say.

Offline 660magnum

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Re: Break In and Synthetic oil
« Reply #9 on: March 17, 2013, 05:48:14 pm »
I'm a 32:1 guy.

I like to have the chainsaw rich enough to where I can hear it four stroke when free running and then clean up into two stroking when in the cut.

This works pretty good on the old Homelites and Macs but some newer design chainsaws will not four stroke until above 14,000 rpm and they have to be set with a tachometer. There's often the rpm limiter that trips at 13,000 that you get into which will sound rough like the four stroking that causes confusion. All the more reason to use a tachometer. !2,500 to 13,000 is a good free running set point on the newer chainsaws depending on the saw and the limiter set point.

I the limiter starts working, the tachometer will go nuts and you will not know what the rpm is.
We should share what we know... someone may learn...
That knowledge can live after us... and that "Pays It Forward".
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