Chainsaw Repair

So I did my first one. It was a pain but I got it. The best way I found was to use some Wd-40 as lube and use a long blow gun to stick up between the hose and the handlebar to swell it out so you can slide it down a little bit at a time. Only real problem I had was I cut the hose to short by a 1/2" or so.

Info from Andy out in PNW Washington.  Used to get stihl square files from him when couldnt find them local.

You can't buy the exact short length bacause you can't install it unless you have an air compressor connected to a much longer length.

Stihl still sells the two common sizes of hose. 19mm Full wrap 090 and 23mm Std 090  it comes in 5m lengths and is a PITA to put on. I've done many different handles.

19mm - 0000 791 2009
23mm - 0000 791 2005

About $40 a length.  Back in 2007

It's enough for about 15 saws! But I also bought rolls of both sizes a long time ago and have almost used it all.

Clean your handle bar and polish very smooth. Block any holes in the "far" end with a screw or whatever it takes.

Make a fitting like this - connects your air compressor to the handle hose... via a 1/4 turn ball valve. Connect the tubing roll to your fitting and clamp with a hose clamp.

Set your air pressure fairly low -say 30-50 psi, if not you'll be fighting it and you can blow out the hose (I did)... You'll need decent size compressor or a large tank. A small "pancake" compressor won't provide enough flow..

Place the valve on the floor so you can regulate the flow/pressure with your foot (the "third hand").

Hold the hose with your left hand and the handle with your right... crappy pic - need another hand! The air expands the hose and provides a low friction path for the hose to follow.

Work the foot valve in conjunction with your hands, and wiggle the tubing around the handle. To rest, just shut of the air. Turn it on too high and the hose will fly off. It can be a PITA. The handle shown is a TS400 - probably the worst case you can try. It never came with rubber, but I wanted it. Took me the best part of 30 minutes... and blisters. The 2 90 degrees bends are the problem..

When it's to where you want it, turn of the valve, and cut the hose with a razor knife at the exact location you want to to start/end. Turn back on the air and push of the excess.


Lubricant is a waste of time. The air blows it out immediately and all you need is the air anyhow.
It will make a mess and be slippery. You don't need any lube.. the air works well... and lube will make painting of the exposed parts a pain..

The Stihl supplied hose is very good and lasts a "lifetime" in the sun, gas, moderate abuse etc, but it's not made by Stihl.. so search and you might find it. It will need to be gas and UV resistant. Two sizes - 19 and 23mm - not sure if that ID or handle size... I'll have to check. Per SAW it's cheap - so if you are lucky you might find a dealer with a length that you can borrow and just pay for what you use. I've restored the worst looking handles to "brand new". It's even good for covering bad joins in handles that have been broken and "repaired". 

I paid about $52 for the 19mm. Thanks for sharing on how some others have done it. Think it will help me on the next one.
* Cut would Andy happen to have a pic of the fitting or adapter he made?

No need to worry I am sure I can come up with something that will work.

Remember something about a air fitting used to replace golf club handle hose.
 
Shep