Author Topic: Stihl Ms290  (Read 949 times)

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Offline 660magnum

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Re: Stihl Ms290
« Reply #10 on: April 05, 2015, 07:23:53 pm »
One thing for sure, the 290 is certainly made different from a Husqvarna 372. Another thing is that whoever made up the service manual is not aware of the assembly sequence situation? Once you catch onto this problem, you will be an expert.

I have the Service manual and parts list if necessary.
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Offline Giles

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Re: Stihl Ms290
« Reply #11 on: April 05, 2015, 07:42:20 pm »
I was looking through some junk spiral note pads and found MANY scribblings of chainsaws and other mechanical and electrical items. Years ago, before we got the conveniences we have today with photos, I would draw out a schematic to
help with assembly.
Today, when I tear something down that is somewhat complicated, I take several photos and put them on computer.
Helped me out many times because at my age, I sometimes get "confused"

Offline 660magnum

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Re: Stihl Ms290
« Reply #12 on: April 05, 2015, 08:00:46 pm »
I'm 70 and my fingers don't work like they used to.

In my area, you come across more of those plastic Stihls than any other chainsaw. They are very popular with casual homeowners and firewood guys.

So we have to learn to repair them.

My biggest frustration is replacing a bad part on a complete chainsaw.

After you learn one, to completely disassemble a plastic Stihl to get the engine apart and reassemble the chainsaw is no more difficult than any other saw but is different.

After having a engine unit apart and seeing how they are made, I would never try to put seals in one without removing the engine and pulling the pan from the bottom of the engine unit.

There is little difference in these engine units and that of most of the Stihl weed whacker power units.
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Offline Giles

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Re: Stihl Ms290
« Reply #13 on: April 06, 2015, 01:11:17 pm »
 I know that I can go to a 390 P/C but I am leary of buying a Chinese replacement, but don't want to tie up more in this saw then it's worth.
 Can anyone advise me as to the reliability of the China kits, any brand better then the others?
 I have found a used P/C for an 038, would that work?

Offline 660magnum

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Re: Stihl Ms290
« Reply #14 on: April 06, 2015, 03:28:17 pm »
The 038 will not work. It is not a clamshell design
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Re: Stihl Ms290
« Reply #15 on: April 06, 2015, 03:33:55 pm »
Of the Chinese MS390 cylinder and piston assemblies there are some offerings that do not work out so well.

There's one where the piston skirt hits the counterweights and another with no impulse nipple. There are others with the hole for the coil ground not tapped.

I'm not so sure any of the holes were tapped on the OEM cylinders either? Some of those OEM screws are self tapping.

I have a MS250 and a FS55 power head beside me and the screws are self tapping.
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Offline Giles

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Re: Stihl Ms290
« Reply #16 on: April 06, 2015, 08:20:01 pm »
I should have noticed it wasn't a clamshell---my oversight.

Offline 67L36Driver

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Re: Stihl Ms290
« Reply #17 on: April 06, 2015, 09:03:14 pm »
The Farmertech engine from Hutzel dropped right in absolutly no issues.  I put about an hour on it before selling it on C'List last week.
Hardest part is waiting two weeks for delivery.

Offline jmester

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Re: Stihl Ms290
« Reply #18 on: April 06, 2015, 09:13:20 pm »
http://www.weedeaterman.com/default.asp  http://www.hlsproparts.com

Look at the links above between them they have most of the aftermarket kits that are available. Have heard the mako and or hyway kits are ok. Got the mako kit for a 290 and it works well. The 290-390 pan bolts are self tapping like the 210-250 pan bolts. The look very similar.
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Offline Giles

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Re: Stihl Ms290
« Reply #19 on: April 16, 2015, 02:58:08 pm »
The Farmertech engine from Hutzel dropped right in absolutly no issues.  I put about an hour on it before selling it on C'List last week.
Hardest part is waiting two weeks for delivery.


I just received  the Farmtech kit today. I noticed the cylinder is tapped fine thread and the factory (big headed) screws are course thread. It is my understanding that this is correct. My screws are just straight thread screws that don't appear to be self tapping.
It is also my assumption that this causes an interference thread to serve as locking.
Built many saw and never run into this.
Is this correct--just use the factory screws?

 

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