Author Topic: Stihl MS460/461 with 365/372 con rod. (Read 2975 times)

mdavlee . · « **Reply #40 on:** August 06, 2015, 02:41:19 pm »

Quote from: Cut4fun . on August 06, 2015, 02:22:55 pm

Got a sort of off topic question. The poulan partner jonsered crankshafts used in the 415 425 445 475 505 2077 2083 660 710 7700 are similar to the husky 371 but with coarse threads. Saws are built in the husqvarna plant using alot of husky parts.

I have at least 4 of them now with bad big end rod bearings. Being the cranks are NLA, I am wondering if a redneck could some how push apart the crank to be able to replace the bearing and some how true these back up?

Betting the 372 big end replacement bearings would work?

That would be the way to go with them. Falcon cranks could probably do it for you.

srcarr52 · « **Reply #41 on:** August 06, 2015, 02:47:33 pm »

Quote from: Gatekeeper on August 06, 2015, 12:25:04 pm

Shaun could you true a crank back up?

I've done it before using my lathe and the live center, it's a lot of hassle and takes a lot of thinking. Having V blocks is the better way.

Quote from: Cut4fun . on August 06, 2015, 02:22:55 pm

Got a sort of off topic question. The poulan partner jonsered crankshafts used in the 415 425 445 475 505 2077 2083 660 710 7700 are similar to the husky 371 but with coarse threads. Saws are built in the husqvarna plant using alot of husky parts.

I have at least 4 of them now with bad big end rod bearings. Being the cranks are NLA, I am wondering if a redneck could some how push apart the crank to be able to replace the bearing and some how true these back up?

Betting the 372 big end replacement bearings would work?

Very well could work. You might be able to press the center pin out of a 372 and press it right into the 505 crank.

Cut4fun . · « **Reply #42 on:** August 06, 2015, 04:47:37 pm »

I was hoping I had a 371 crank to show how close the 415-505 was. But didnt save one so here is a 372 and 505.

Even thought about trying a aftermarket 372 crank on the cheap. Just to see if the clutch flywheel etc from a 372 could be used in the poulan.

Cut4fun . · « **Reply #43 on:** August 06, 2015, 04:49:37 pm »

BS scratch the idea of 372 in the poulan. Just seen the shoulders near the throws on 372 in pics.

srcarr52 · « **Reply #44 on:** August 06, 2015, 05:56:06 pm »

Quote from: Cut4fun . on August 06, 2015, 04:49:37 pm

BS scratch the idea of 372 in the poulan. Just seen the shoulders near the throws on 372 in pics.

Easy enough to grind off.

EHP · « **Reply #45 on:** August 06, 2015, 06:33:42 pm »

turning cranks is not hard , done tons of them, what is hard is when a crank is twisted bad to straighten and once straighten I tig weld the pin cause they seem to twist alot easier the second time , pressing cranks apart sometimes is a **** , have seen just over 70 ton pf pressure pushing 272 cranks apart . I have also seen crank halves split trying to push them apart , Snowmobile cranks and alot easier to press a part then cranksaw cranks

EHP · « **Reply #46 on:** August 06, 2015, 06:36:17 pm »

just put the crank with shoulders in a lathe , cranks cut pretty easy just make sure what ever radius on the crank you are trying to copy gets put back on the crank your cutting plus never cut a crank square cornered , it will break at that place

Al Smith · « **Reply #47 on:** August 06, 2015, 07:19:06 pm »

All good info but I would think without an induction heater and an alignment jig it would be a beech of a job getting it back together let alone in alignment .

With a Harley you have basically two circles and a taper shouldered pin with locking nuts .Not so with a chainsaw crankshaft .Chainsaws do not have full circle crankshafts unless somebody made one .Lawdy you could be beating on that thing with a brass hammer forever to get it halfways close .

Falicon in Florida could it but they certainly are not cheap .

Cut4fun . · « **Reply #48 on:** August 06, 2015, 08:22:02 pm »

Quote from: srcarr52 on August 06, 2015, 05:56:06 pm

Quote from: Cut4fun . on August 06, 2015, 04:49:37 pm
BS scratch the idea of 372 in the poulan. Just seen the shoulders near the throws on 372 in pics.

Easy enough to grind off.

I'll have to get more measurements then just eyeing to see how close. Think alittle over my redneck ways as I have no lathe but can grind. Nothing for pushing a pin out either as I tried my best rednecking today. Oh well. Least I have 4 good cranks still in use and 1 for project.

Eccentric · « **Reply #49 on:** August 06, 2015, 09:38:23 pm »

Going further afield with this question.........................but I'm taking advantage of having knowledgeable folks 'in the room' (who have already been discussing using Chinese 365-372 roller bearings and conrods). Are the Chinese aftermarket 365-372 crank assemblies worth using (as a whole unit)? Just talking about them for use in a work saw. I have a 365SP carcass that I'd like to rebuild (with new bearings/seals/etc of course), but the rod big end bearing is sloppy. Tempted to use one of the AM crank assemblies rather than scaring up and trusting another used crank assembly or paying mucho bucks for an OEM assembly...

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Author Topic: Stihl MS460/461 with 365/372 con rod. (Read 2975 times)

mdavlee .

Re: Stroked MS460/461 with 365/372 con rod.

srcarr52

Re: Stroked MS460/461 with 365/372 con rod.

Cut4fun .

Re: Stroked MS460/461 with 365/372 con rod.

Cut4fun .

Re: Stroked MS460/461 with 365/372 con rod.

srcarr52

Re: Stroked MS460/461 with 365/372 con rod.

EHP

Re: Stroked MS460/461 with 365/372 con rod.

EHP

Re: Stroked MS460/461 with 365/372 con rod.

Al Smith

Re: Stroked MS460/461 with 365/372 con rod.

Cut4fun .

Re: Stroked MS460/461 with 365/372 con rod.

Eccentric

Re: Stroked MS460/461 with 365/372 con rod.

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