Chainsaw Repair

Interesting idea.  Cordless Drill powered pull starter

 Hey Al for that ole 2100 of yours.   

http://youtu.be/gDXgljybZ4E

The cordless pull handle actuator is real neat. It is even better than mine . . . .

They are for starting the chainsaw engines converted over to model airplane use.

The non reduction one (Megatron) though it will run on 24 volts, I use a 12 volt truck battery on it and it turns 2800 no load rpm @ 600 in-oz torque at the hub and draws 100 amp at that load.

The 4:1 reduction one (Dynatron), I have set up to use two emergency light batteries and it turns 2400 no load rpm @2700 in-oz torque at the hub and draws 20 amp at that load.

The reduction unit is a Miller 4:1 reduction unit. You can buy them to fit either starter.

Yes, you need an aluminum spinner on the front of the engine.

The two hand one I bought at a garage sale after the guy died but he had a couple 50 cc engines that he started with it all the time.

The other one I bought unused with the reduction unit at a swap meet in Columbus, Ohio.

I've had them some 7 years. Wanted one years before but when I found them for $100 each 2nd hand I bought them.

The reduced speed one came with the reduction on it but I mounted the assembly on top of the emergency light batteries. Notice I have a capacitor across the starter button or it will blow the button up.

The capacitor is part of a stereo speaker crossover system and it came from Radio Shack.

The switch blows up when you let go. The collapsed windings of the electric motor act like a spark plug coil.

Try holding on to the leads of a running golf cart motor and take your foot off the peddle. It will ruin the rest of your day.

Even a DC arc welder will sometimes do that when you break the arc if you are both grounded and the handle is bad and your gloves wet.