Author Topic: Making new ends on recoil springs  (Read 627 times)

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Offline 660magnum

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Re: Making new ends on recoil springs
« Reply #10 on: April 03, 2014, 10:45:36 am »
If you don't turn them blue, you don't have to heat treat them at all.

Some steels will crack or get too hard with water so oil is a safer bet.

The true way to heat treat steels from a layman's point of view is to heat them to a cherry red (this temperature is above 1333F) then quench them in water or oil. At this point they should be full hard. This may be too brittle so you draw them back by heating to 550F and hour per inch of thickness and let them air cool.

Regular 1018 steel will not harden.

Some tool steels like A1 and D2 are air hardening. You just let them cool on their own after heating up to 1550F. Then they have to be drawn back.

Got to tell a story at this point:
A devious character that worked near my machine shop wanted to make a anvil for his log splitter. Log splitter anvils are not hard but he didn't know that. Anyway, he got a block of steel from my tool steel area marked D2. After sharpening it like he wanted in the saw, he heated it up in the heat treating furnace and when it was cherry red, he dumped it into the water tank, whereby it exploded into a thousand pieces. He didn't mess around the tool steel any more.
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