Author Topic: Making new ends on recoil springs  (Read 625 times)

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Offline 660magnum

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Re: Making new ends on recoil springs
« Reply #10 on: April 02, 2014, 04:15:09 pm »
The oil is safer than water from that point of view.
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Offline 3000 FPS

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Re: Making new ends on recoil springs
« Reply #11 on: April 02, 2014, 05:15:23 pm »
With regular mild steel I do not know if I would worry about how it is cooled.
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Offline Al Smith

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Re: Making new ends on recoil springs
« Reply #12 on: April 02, 2014, 08:06:42 pm »
You cannot harden mild steel by heating and quencing .Spring steel do not heat it to the scaling point or else it will fail .A little bit past cherry red .

Oil is better for quenching because once water boils it lets in oxegon  .Sounds hard to believe but remember water is H2O .

Offline countryhog

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Re: Making new ends on recoil springs
« Reply #13 on: April 03, 2014, 10:20:49 am »
thanks guys, nice to have some people with metallurgy backgrounds. that's one of my many weak areas

another question. i've heard of people making knives from old lawn mower blades by grinding down to a desired shape and then sharpening with a wheel before doing all the fine tuning by hand. i know there're tricks to this. after grinding do you quench it with oil or air cool. i know those blades are both springy and hardened and its not a 5-cent answer but 5-cents is all i got. thanks much, jerry
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Offline 660magnum

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Re: Making new ends on recoil springs
« Reply #14 on: April 03, 2014, 10:45:36 am »
If you don't turn them blue, you don't have to heat treat them at all.

Some steels will crack or get too hard with water so oil is a safer bet.

The true way to heat treat steels from a layman's point of view is to heat them to a cherry red (this temperature is above 1333F) then quench them in water or oil. At this point they should be full hard. This may be too brittle so you draw them back by heating to 550F and hour per inch of thickness and let them air cool.

Regular 1018 steel will not harden.

Some tool steels like A1 and D2 are air hardening. You just let them cool on their own after heating up to 1550F. Then they have to be drawn back.

Got to tell a story at this point:
A devious character that worked near my machine shop wanted to make a anvil for his log splitter. Log splitter anvils are not hard but he didn't know that. Anyway, he got a block of steel from my tool steel area marked D2. After sharpening it like he wanted in the saw, he heated it up in the heat treating furnace and when it was cherry red, he dumped it into the water tank, whereby it exploded into a thousand pieces. He didn't mess around the tool steel any more.
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That knowledge can live after us... and that "Pays It Forward".
Be all that you can be . . .

Offline Al Smith

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Re: Making new ends on recoil springs
« Reply #15 on: April 03, 2014, 09:16:44 pm »
You gotta know how to read the colors to harden and read the "rainbow" to temper .It's all on the internet .A good site is anvil fire .

With me with a last name of Smith it's in my blood . ;)

 

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