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Offline Al Smith

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Tank sealant
« on: October 26, 2011, 04:53:29 am »
Now here's the problem .I have an arm breaker 2100 Husqvarna  that spent a number of years sitting in a barn on some island off Washington state with a bad coil .

The fuel lines had deteriated and were replaced with Tygon rebuilt the carb ,obviously the coil ,filter blah blah blah .

The damned black residue of those old rubber fuel lines gets caught on the screen in the Tilley HS carb .I've pressure washed the tank several times .Used an assortment of different filters all to no avail and it's driving me bonkers .

Darned powerfull saw if you can get it started .So I'm thinking of using sealant .Any ideas .
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Offline Eccentric

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Re: Tank sealant
« Reply #1 on: November 28, 2013, 07:03:52 pm »
Guys have used Red-Kote in saws with success.  One wrinkle for you with that model is the manual oiler pump that passes through the fuel tank (and is sealed with a couple o-rings.  Not sure if using a sealer would cause any problems on that saw....
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Offline Al Smith

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Re: Tank sealant
« Reply #2 on: November 28, 2013, 08:20:16 pm »
Since I made that post I pressure washed the inside of that tank twice ,installed a new preformed OEM gas line and I believe a big filter from a Mac 10 series and haven't had a problem since .I even figured out how to start that arm breaker .

You choke that thing once ,not until it hiccups like most saws .Get off it and it usually goes in two or three .Stay on it too long you'll be at it forever and then it will try to relieve you of your arm before it's over .
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Offline Eccentric

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Re: Tank sealant
« Reply #3 on: November 28, 2013, 10:12:09 pm »
Quote from: Al Smith on November 28, 2013, 08:20:16 pm
Since I made that post I pressure washed the inside of that tank twice ,installed a new preformed OEM gas line and I believe a big filter from a Mac 10 series and haven't had a problem since .I even figured out how to start that arm breaker .

You choke that thing once ,not until it hiccups like most saws .Get off it and it usually goes in two or three .Stay on it too long you'll be at it forever and then it will try to relieve you of your arm before it's over .

Sounds good Al.  Glad to hear you got that beast figured out.  Would have been nice if they'd put a comp release on those big Huskys.  My 12 year old daughter can start my Homelite 2100-S.  Not my Husqvarna 2100CD though....
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Offline Al Smith

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Re: Tank sealant
« Reply #4 on: December 02, 2013, 08:48:40 pm »
I know those Swedes are a tough bunch of Vikings but why in the world they made an arm breaker saw like that with no decomp I'll never know .I put a D-handle on that pot licker poor old arm couldn't take it anymore .Hell they should have put a kick starter on the thing .
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Offline procarbine2k1

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Re: Tank sealant
« Reply #5 on: December 05, 2013, 04:27:15 pm »
Quote from: Eccentric on November 28, 2013, 07:03:52 pm
Guys have used Red-Kote in saws with success.  One wrinkle for you with that model is the manual oiler pump that passes through the fuel tank (and is sealed with a couple o-rings.  Not sure if using a sealer would cause any problems on that saw....
]

I know Al got his saw squared away... but I can attest to the Red Kote. Cheaper than alternatives, and it really lives up to the hype. I used it in an Allis Chalmers B fuel tank, that had pin holes through out, I believe most were 1/32"... but needless to say, the holes were plugged and cured, with a nice finish on the bottom of the tank. Gas did not seem to soften it whatsoever, and no residue, or discoloration of fuel in the sediment bowl. Really, really good stuff.
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Offline Al Smith

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Re: Tank sealant
« Reply #6 on: December 15, 2013, 02:24:45 pm »
B Allis eh .In my folks barn sits a B Allis I rebuilt the engine for in 1964 when I was a sophmore in high school .Repainted it too .To this very day it still shines and still runs great .It was made in 1938 ,I was made in 1948 .
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