Author Topic: Welding Chainsaw Parts  (Read 5666 times)

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Offline Cut4fun .

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Re: Welding Chainsaw Parts
« Reply #150 on: July 31, 2017, 09:19:34 am »
I see what your saying. https://www.amazon.com/Washington-Alloy-AZ92A-Magnesium-Diameter/dp/B06XP17F4L

On ebay a seller will do that to keep you from buying stuff that is out of stock.  That way they dont have to pay to relist it later. Just my WAG
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Offline chy_farm

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Re: Welding Chainsaw Parts
« Reply #151 on: August 01, 2017, 09:42:07 am »
I see what your saying. https://www.amazon.com/Washington-Alloy-AZ92A-Magnesium-Diameter/dp/B06XP17F4L
On ebay a seller will do that to keep you from buying stuff that is out of stock.  That way they dont have to pay to relist it later. Just my WAG
Thanks Kevin, funny to me is that the terrible price was gone from this site, lol. I shot email to Washington Alloy on this but they do not reply yet, may be they do not have this in their inventory....
Chy

(McCulloch) PM6,PM320,SP40,PM484,10-10A,PM610,35A,47,300,450,PM800,1-70,1-80,740,740(mod),795,SP125C
(Echo) CS-302,CS-502EVL,CS-60S,CS-601S VL,CS-803EVL,CS-803EVL(mod),CS-651T
(Homelite) DM 50,Super Mini S,Super XL-9225,Super 1050
(Partner) 1614/Mini P,R417T,S55,R14T,R12,R12,K12S,
(Stihl) MS-180C,08S,070AV,084AV
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(Dolmar) 123,PS 7900
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Offline chy_farm

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Re: Welding Chainsaw Parts
« Reply #152 on: September 26, 2017, 09:03:25 am »
-----------This was done with a backing material and just ran a bead along the edge unitl it I got it built up.  I did this from both sides so that there would be enough material to shape when done welding.
Good evening Roger, hope everything is going well with you.
I wish you could give me some tips on this 'backing material', remember you have posted that you used copper or something for this. Today I tried mag welding for the first time in my life, lol, and used a strip of steel bar for this but failed.

This was it, a clutch cover from McCulloch 300.
[ Guests cannot view attachments ]

To its half way the puddle and bead were both keeping its way(not very good though, lol), but from 3 quarter the last part fell off!
[ Guests cannot view attachments ]

My presumption is that this backing steel bar sucked excessive heat to the point it melts the mag. I should have used much bigger sheet....
So a better way could be using rather thick sheet metal which has greater heat conductivity than steel.

After this I had to rebuild the wall again with some filler rod.
[ Guests cannot view attachments ]
 
Your tips on 'How to use backing heat sink plate' will be very much appreciated, thanks in ahead.
 

Chy


(McCulloch) PM6,PM320,SP40,PM484,10-10A,PM610,35A,47,300,450,PM800,1-70,1-80,740,740(mod),795,SP125C
(Echo) CS-302,CS-502EVL,CS-60S,CS-601S VL,CS-803EVL,CS-803EVL(mod),CS-651T
(Homelite) DM 50,Super Mini S,Super XL-9225,Super 1050
(Partner) 1614/Mini P,R417T,S55,R14T,R12,R12,K12S,
(Stihl) MS-180C,08S,070AV,084AV
(Shindaiwa) Pecker A110,E305AV
(Dolmar) 123,PS 7900
(Jonsereds) 49SP,455
(Husqvarna) 550XP
(Tanaka) TCS-33EDTP
(Makita) EK-900
(Alpina) A40

Offline 3000 FPS

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Re: Welding Chainsaw Parts
« Reply #153 on: September 26, 2017, 02:56:30 pm »
Sorry did not see this earlier.  I was in New York on Holiday.

First I would have sand blasted the whole area to get it cleaner on both sides.   
Then heat control with the amperage is very critical to help prevent that falling away.

For a backing material I have use sheet metal some 3/16 steel plate and even a torx wrench one time.
It is not that critical as long as it is a material that the mag will not stick to.
This is why you need to practice on some test pieces to get the heat control.
Also some of that pitting will not be as severe if you sand blast it.
PP 505, 475, 445.

Offline 3000 FPS

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Re: Welding Chainsaw Parts
« Reply #154 on: September 26, 2017, 03:02:46 pm »
You do not have to use a backing material.
You can just run a bead back and forth on the edge to build it back up to the length that you need and the shape it with various tools.    Do not worry about what the weld looks like as long as you have enough material on it to shape it.
PP 505, 475, 445.

Offline chy_farm

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Re: Welding Chainsaw Parts
« Reply #155 on: September 26, 2017, 06:46:06 pm »
First I would have sand blasted the whole area to get it cleaner on both sides.   
Then heat control with the amperage is very critical to help prevent that falling away.

For a backing material I have use sheet metal some 3/16 steel plate and even a torx wrench one time.
It is not that critical as long as it is a material that the mag will not stick to.
This is why you need to practice on some test pieces to get the heat control.
Also some of that pitting will not be as severe if you sand blast it.
--------------------------------------------------------

You do not have to use a backing material.
You can just run a bead back and forth on the edge to build it back up to the length that you need and the shape it with various tools.
Do not worry about what the weld looks like as long as you have enough material on it to shape it.
Good morning Roger, thank you for your tips. These help me a lot!
As far the heat control I am posting a setting conditions for amperage here below.

[ Guests cannot view attachments ]
I use 50A for the welding pulse current, to where the mag alloy is thicker than 2mm,

if it's thinner than 2mm use 35A.

In case of filling holes or rebuilding walls on the mother material, use 25A.

Any tips should be appreciated on this, thanks again.

Chy

(McCulloch) PM6,PM320,SP40,PM484,10-10A,PM610,35A,47,300,450,PM800,1-70,1-80,740,740(mod),795,SP125C
(Echo) CS-302,CS-502EVL,CS-60S,CS-601S VL,CS-803EVL,CS-803EVL(mod),CS-651T
(Homelite) DM 50,Super Mini S,Super XL-9225,Super 1050
(Partner) 1614/Mini P,R417T,S55,R14T,R12,R12,K12S,
(Stihl) MS-180C,08S,070AV,084AV
(Shindaiwa) Pecker A110,E305AV
(Dolmar) 123,PS 7900
(Jonsereds) 49SP,455
(Husqvarna) 550XP
(Tanaka) TCS-33EDTP
(Makita) EK-900
(Alpina) A40

Offline 3000 FPS

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Re: Welding Chainsaw Parts
« Reply #156 on: September 26, 2017, 07:23:59 pm »
The welder I have will let me adjust the amperage as I am welding.   So if the puddle does not look right then I can adjust the heat accordingly.
My welder is set to a max of 200 amps but because I can adjust while welding I do not worry about what amperage is actually being determined by the welder just as long as the puddle looks good to me.     That is the one thing about Tig welding on magnesium is that the puddle can be tricky to see if it is good.
PP 505, 475, 445.

Offline chy_farm

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Re: Welding Chainsaw Parts
« Reply #157 on: September 26, 2017, 07:51:34 pm »
The welder I have will let me adjust the amperage as I am welding.   So if the puddle does not look right then I can adjust the heat accordingly.
My welder is set to a max of 200 amps but because I can adjust while welding I do not worry about what amperage is actually being determined by the welder just as long as the puddle looks good to me.     That is the one thing about Tig welding on magnesium is that the puddle can be tricky to see if it is good.
Yep I understand it Roger, thanks. Will keep this in mind.
One  thing I did not see before this was that mag welding emits green light from the arc, though I do not know it's really green since I see it through protector glasses, lol.
Chy

(McCulloch) PM6,PM320,SP40,PM484,10-10A,PM610,35A,47,300,450,PM800,1-70,1-80,740,740(mod),795,SP125C
(Echo) CS-302,CS-502EVL,CS-60S,CS-601S VL,CS-803EVL,CS-803EVL(mod),CS-651T
(Homelite) DM 50,Super Mini S,Super XL-9225,Super 1050
(Partner) 1614/Mini P,R417T,S55,R14T,R12,R12,K12S,
(Stihl) MS-180C,08S,070AV,084AV
(Shindaiwa) Pecker A110,E305AV
(Dolmar) 123,PS 7900
(Jonsereds) 49SP,455
(Husqvarna) 550XP
(Tanaka) TCS-33EDTP
(Makita) EK-900
(Alpina) A40

Offline 3000 FPS

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Re: Welding Chainsaw Parts
« Reply #158 on: September 26, 2017, 11:22:07 pm »
The welder I have will let me adjust the amperage as I am welding.   So if the puddle does not look right then I can adjust the heat accordingly.
My welder is set to a max of 200 amps but because I can adjust while welding I do not worry about what amperage is actually being determined by the welder just as long as the puddle looks good to me.     That is the one thing about Tig welding on magnesium is that the puddle can be tricky to see if it is good.
Yep I understand it Roger, thanks. Will keep this in mind.
One  thing I did not see before this was that mag welding emits green light from the arc, though I do not know it's really green since I see it through protector glasses, lol.
Chy


The arc from a Tig welder is not green and just appears that way through the welding lens.   The Welding helmet I have is a auto darkening with an adjustable setting for how dark I need it.   The arc on mine does not appear green.   

Also the arc from a Tig welder is very strong and will sun burn any exposed skin very quickly.    So cover your self when welding good.
PP 505, 475, 445.

Offline chy_farm

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Re: Welding Chainsaw Parts
« Reply #159 on: September 27, 2017, 08:42:35 am »
Good evening Roger, I have one more question on mag welding, thanks!

Posting here is a McCulloch 740 for which I made a tuned pipe previously,;
[ Guests cannot view attachments ]
 but this saw came to me with some cracks and missing parts, e.g. it's upper shroud has a couple of cracks so gave it some stitch with copper wire before I got this TIG welder, (nearly threes years ago).
[ Guests cannot view attachments ]
I did another try on this yesterday with mag welding, and got some more questions about the way to rebuild new walls on mag surface.
[ Guests cannot view attachments ]
Unexpected trouble to me in this job was happened to the several holes I made for the stitch which may be seen in the above pic.
Usually as far steel sheet, I place the mother material horizontally when I try to close little holes. So did the same way but in this case the melted mag alloy did not stay around the edges of the holes and fell off from the holes no matter I minimized the arc current as small as 15A.
So instead of placing the holes horizontally, I tried vertically as shown in a drawing below, and was able to do it.
[ Guests cannot view attachments ]

Do you rebuild mag walls to up-ward vertically? or place the material horizontally and rebuild the walls in flat horizontally?

(McCulloch) PM6,PM320,SP40,PM484,10-10A,PM610,35A,47,300,450,PM800,1-70,1-80,740,740(mod),795,SP125C
(Echo) CS-302,CS-502EVL,CS-60S,CS-601S VL,CS-803EVL,CS-803EVL(mod),CS-651T
(Homelite) DM 50,Super Mini S,Super XL-9225,Super 1050
(Partner) 1614/Mini P,R417T,S55,R14T,R12,R12,K12S,
(Stihl) MS-180C,08S,070AV,084AV
(Shindaiwa) Pecker A110,E305AV
(Dolmar) 123,PS 7900
(Jonsereds) 49SP,455
(Husqvarna) 550XP
(Tanaka) TCS-33EDTP
(Makita) EK-900
(Alpina) A40

 

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