Author Topic: Fixable? Dealer says I'm screwed  (Read 621 times)

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Offline brettl

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Fixable? Dealer says I'm screwed
« on: April 18, 2014, 06:31:22 pm »
My 20" Stihl bar got into my chaps. Now I have a frozen sprocket on the tip because of the fibers from inside the chaps. Dealer says by the time I buy the new sprocket and rivet kit I'll be over the cost of a new bar. It's a like new bar and I hate to waste it so is there anything you can recommend?
Something I can soak it in? Heat with a torch? I'm grasping, I know but it's an almost new bar and I hate to waste it. Thank you.
Sthil Man. 011AV, 015, 020, 020, 024, 025, 026, 028 WB(2), 028AV, 028 Super, 029 Super(2), 039, 041, 192TC, 200T, 250, 260, 390, 440, 441

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Offline Cut4fun .

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Re: Fixable? Dealer says I'm screwed
« Reply #1 on: April 18, 2014, 06:50:17 pm »
ES bar?  Which one 3/8 .325 etc with which nose if it matters to you.  Can be bought reasonably and replaced yourself.
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Re: Fixable? Dealer says I'm screwed
« Reply #2 on: April 18, 2014, 10:18:09 pm »
If it is a replaceable nose sprocket then it is a lot cheaper then a new bar if you do it yourself, which is not hard to do.
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Offline gunnusmc03

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Re: Fixable? Dealer says I'm screwed
« Reply #3 on: April 18, 2014, 10:25:57 pm »
Even the non es bars you can punch out the sprocket and replace those.  In your case if you just have chap material jamming things up your probably just need to punch the sprocket out and clean and put new rivets in.

Offline Cut4fun

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Re: Fixable? Dealer says I'm screwed
« Reply #4 on: April 21, 2014, 07:27:27 pm »
So what did you come up with?
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Offline brettl

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Re: Fixable? Dealer says I'm screwed
« Reply #5 on: April 21, 2014, 11:00:36 pm »
What did I come up with? A crown, a NEW route canal, and an impacted wisdom tooth removal, all in one joyful sitting. :o Between that, nieces in from Houston and Easter with the nephew, Uncle Brett's playtime has been cut dramatically.

I'm leaning toward just drilling the rivets and trying to clean it out and replace the rivets. Will keep you informed. I'm getting my little sisters old digital camera(IT"S PINK!!!!) to so I'll soon be posting pics! Brett
Sthil Man. 011AV, 015, 020, 020, 024, 025, 026, 028 WB(2), 028AV, 028 Super, 029 Super(2), 039, 041, 192TC, 200T, 250, 260, 390, 440, 441

Offline Philbert

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Nose Sprocket Repair - With Illustrations - 1
« Reply #6 on: May 01, 2014, 12:25:02 am »
At a recent GTG we did a chaps test/demonstration that also seized up a couple of nose sprockets. This is how I 'saved' them. These were both Oregon-style bars, without the additional side shims that the STIHL bars have*.

1. I drove the rivets out on both bars using my chain breaker - reverse from the direction that they were installed.  A punch could also be used, or the rivets could be drilled out if you have replacement rivets.



Offline Philbert

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Nose Sprocket Repair - With Illustrations - 2
« Reply #7 on: May 01, 2014, 12:28:26 am »
2. I slid out the sprocket assembly on an old towel in case any of the tiny bearings tried to escape (26 in this Husky, 3/8" pitch, 5 rivet bar ; 15 in the Oregon, 3/8" low profile, single rivet bar!).

Sliding them out on thin cardstock (e.g. 3X5 card) helps to keep things together. You can see how the protective fibers from the chaps are wound right in with the bearings, and are not just between the sprocket and the inside of the guide bar.

Offline Philbert

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Nose Sprocket Repair - With Illustrations - 3
« Reply #8 on: May 01, 2014, 12:29:07 am »
3. The single rivet, 3/8" low profile bar for reference.


Offline Philbert

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Nose Sprocket Repair - With Illustrations - 4
« Reply #9 on: May 01, 2014, 12:29:41 am »
4. This is all the protective chaps fiber it takes!

While the nose sprockets were out, I dressed the rails and de-burred the edges. Much easier to do like this. I was also able to de-burr the actual nose (with a ScotchBrite wheel) with the sprocket removed.

 

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