Author Topic: Pocket Chain Breaker  (Read 606 times)

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Offline Philbert

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Pocket Chain Breaker
« on: March 19, 2017, 11:15:18 pm »
A lot of 'old guys' say that these are all that they used to join or repair chains in the field.  I mentioned these in another thread, and wanted to try one: found an Archer brand model on eBay for about $18, shipped.

The tools comes with an anvil (bottom in photo) that is similar to the one that came with my bench top breaker punch (top in photo); a punch to drive out the rivet; and a concave punch - presumably to shape the rivet head?  There were no instructions.

Maybe I was doing it wrong?  But I was pretty disappointed.  Ended up having to use a fairly large (24oz) ball pein hammer to drive out the rivets on some 3/8 low profile chain.  Ended up deforming the links too.  I suppose that I could file or grind off the rivet heads first, but then I probably don't need this set - could probably pry the tie strap off with a small screwdriver.

I was able to get better results with my Granberg Break-N-Mend, and much better results with my bench top chain breaker.

Would like to hear any tips or advice from guys who used these. Maybe the $40 Oregon one is better and worth the extra $? 

Thanks.

Philbert

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Offline Philbert

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Re: Pocket Chain Breaker
« Reply #1 on: March 19, 2017, 11:19:16 pm »
Note, in the photos above, that the pocket breaker anvil also did not have any recesses for the top plate of cutter teeth (see image from Oregon M&S Manual).  This means that it only really works for links where there are tie straps on both sides, limiting its use.


Philbert

Offline Cut4fun

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Re: Pocket Chain Breaker
« Reply #2 on: March 20, 2017, 12:18:05 pm »
Helps if you grind the rivet head off before punching it through.

Looks like you bent the heck out of the drive link in pic.


Offline Philbert

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Re: Pocket Chain Breaker
« Reply #3 on: March 20, 2017, 12:46:11 pm »
Helps if you grind the rivet head off before punching it through.
Trying to avoid that - if I have to grind (shop) or file (field) the head off, I can probably pry the tie straps off without this tool.

I think that this punch may also be large for the smaller, 3/8 low profile rivets.  Will have to try on some larger pitch chains.

Looks like you bent the heck out of the drive link in pic.

Full disclosure - that drive link was already bent - part of the reason that this chain was in my 'scrap pile'.

Philbert

Offline HolmenTree

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Re: Pocket Chain Breaker
« Reply #4 on: March 20, 2017, 10:25:52 pm »
You can't reuse a punched out preset link if you grind off the rivet head.
Trick is out in the bush you need a flat solid rock to lay the anvil on or a soild chunk of iron on a skidder blade.

Granberg break n mend works the best with the adjustable anvil.
3/8 lo pro chain should be used in the .325 anvil slot.(or .250 can't remember)
Making a living with a saw since age 16.

Offline Philbert

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Re: Pocket Chain Breaker
« Reply #5 on: March 21, 2017, 12:29:44 pm »
On this model, the 3/8 low pro chain fit best in the .250 slot. But I think that punch may be too large for it. It is noticeably larger than the punch in my bench tip breaker press.

Tried it with full sized 3/8 pitch chain. Still disappointed.

JMHO

Philbert
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