I must have missed the specific complete tiller ipl?
IPL is Stihl terminology for the parts breakdown booklet, correct?
But I could come up with the powerhead ipl as well as the Kombo tiller head parts?
The MM55 (at least the version I bought) is sold as a tiller, not a Kombi head setup. The attachments that I'm aware of do not require switching out gearheads, only swapping different types of blades/wheels onto the tiller shafts. The engine is much like the Kombi system engine though.
The powerhead is the same as the 38, 45, 46, & 55 series weed whackers
Do you have engine troubles or tine/gearbox troubles?
Everything else has been perfect but I have had carburetor problems from day one. I rarely use this tiller, but every time I start it in the spring I need to take apart the carb and play with it. The basic issue is that it is getting unmetered air from somewhere. Sometimes I have to run it partially choked just to get a quick job done. Other times it miraculously works great. I have given up on fixing the original carb and have ordered one to arrive tomorrow. I don't know this forum's etiquette on posting links so if you search ebay for this item# 161884709935 (CARBURETOR REPLACES STIHL 4601 120 0600 FOR MM55 MM55C TILLER ZAMA C1Q-S202A) you can see pics of the exact carb I'm getting. This supposedly aftermarket replacement carb has squared 90° plastic fuel hose fittings rather than the radiused brass pipes on the original, but otherwise it looks the same as my Zama C1Q with casting# 126. It's cheap enough to try. If I get the tiller running properly I would like to service the filters, plug, and fuel lines.
The odd thing about this carb, and one reason I'd like to read more info on this specific unit (still haven't found an exact source), is the large plastic air nipple cast into the black plastic housing. Other more popular Zama C1Qs are virtually identical to mine but they lack this fresh air vent or whatever it is. Since I have an air leak and the primer bulb isn't drawing a full charge of gas into itself, I must assume the air leak that is leaning out the engine has to do with a passage inside the plastic block or between it and the main casting. Gaskets and close inspection have revealed no issues but I'm not a small engine expert.
I will post back when I get the new carb on to update its running condition, though I feel the real test is to see what happens next spring since it is always problematic after winter storage.