Chainsaw Repair
Husqvarna - Stihl - Poulan - Jonsered - Dolmar chainsaws and more => Husqvarna => Topic started by: JohnG28 on January 07, 2014, 08:52:28 am
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Thank you, I think it came out pretty well. Gain wise the most probably came from opening the muffler, truthfully. The new piston also, it seems a bit snappier than it did before. In the video I was pushing it pretty hard, which shows since I bogged it down a couple times. Definitely pulls harder than it did, seems like a nice little saw. It's really light which is nice, and will make a sweet limbing saw. Hoping with some break in it loosens up some too.
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Looks and sounds like it goes pretty good. Great job! Where do you think that the mods changed the performance?
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I didn't go crazy, this was a learning project. Exhaust is just about on the gasket, little less. I didn't do Al lot to transfers, there's pictures a page or two back showing where I left things.
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should do this also, open it up to match the gasket
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did you open up the exh. port to match the gasket
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Suppose I should have put what I was running in there. 18" .325 setup, with a new out of the box WoodlandPro branded Carlton chain. Spur drive, have not replaced it, but need to. About 5 mins run time on it at the time of the video. Log is ~14".
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I got some larger diameter screws with grommets under the heads to give a little more tension on them while not having to tighten too much and pull the threads through the metal. Seems to have worked for the moment. I imagine I could get a small nut and bolt in there too, IDK, for now it seems OK. Put it back together again and made some cuts and it is holding for the moment. I like it, but I wish I had more wood out back. :( Had a couple rounds of junk wood, left over wind downed pine in the back of the yard. Not the best video, but I didn't have a lot of time. I'll get some better video and hopefully find some better wood out there tomorrow. Here's what I got for now though. ;D
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RzH7fnDCA9E&feature=youtu.be
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Well so far it has but the saw has only a few hours on it (perhaps 2-3 tanks) and the deflector is still there but who knows what a year will show. IDK, but I think that the coarse thread in the sheet metal screws and vibration is part of the problem. McMaster Carr sells some fine threaded self tapping screws that may work better, they also a weird little threaded insert that uses a tool to lock it in a hole and you put a standard machine screw in the threaded insert. The inserts are cheap but the tool is not!
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That sounds like it would work better, more material to bite on. I like screws because I can go with or without a screen with not much ado. I'll see what I can find.
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I have had the same problem with the screws. I either pop rivet them or, I have trying using a long tapered punch, drill a very small hole where the screw goes, then use the punch to form the thin metal into a funnel shape a little smaller than the screws I am using. IMHO the taper in the hole gives the screws more purchase. I have one together like that and so far it is holding, not a 350 but a 372 but should not make a difference.
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Got it all put back together this morning! ;D
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I stole the 288 deflector off my 361, was able to fit it in on the recoil side, just barely.
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Fired up on the 3rd pull and sounds pretty good. Went out back to a couple logs I had and made a couple cuts. Ran great, but after 5th cut I saw the deflector hanging off the muffler and one of the screws was gone. I used the same self tapping sheet metal screws that were holding it on my 361, but I think they didn't work so well in the thinner metal on this one. Going to grab some new ones a later, if that don't work I'll rivet it or something. Sort of figures I used Loctite on the muffler bolts and need to pull it back off, oh well.
BUT, it was a success, so thank you all for your input! I really do appreciate it, this was a fun project. ;D ;D
When I get it straight later I'll get some video and post it up. Have to see, had temps in the 50s last few days so most of the snow is gone, maybe a foot or so left, but more supposed to be coming in, soon. Been a good NY winter! :)
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JohnG another guy on here AlSled does a really nice job of enlarging the factory port and welding on a larger deflector. I asked that he post a picture in this thread so you can have a look.
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I'm thinking it will have to be on a side or do a tube. I don't have any welding equipment so probably the former in some fashion. The factory port is on top so that's out. I have a fee days to ponder it now so we'll see.
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Now the dilemma. I test fit the 288 deflector on the muffler to look at possible options for exhaust. (No offense to your effort KRL, just trying to figure how to finish it up) With the placement of the muffler bolts, I am left with the option of directing the exhaust at the bar or up and left (11 o'clock position) from drivers position, if you will. Think that will be a PITA or not so much? I think the up and left direction would probably be OK, but I do think I could get the 288 deflector onto the clutch side of the muffler also, then aim it straight forward. Only problem then is that there is the insert for the muffler bolt running through the exhaust path. Decisions..........
I am with ya, 11 o'clock would work but you would be getting the exhaust in your face and you would end up with chips getting in the muffler and possibly being ingested by the saw, not good, down and towards the bar probably not good either, side or top may be the only options left however top usually melts the top cover if not way to the front of the muffler. Perhaps look at another form factor for the outlet, like a tube of some sort maybe a piece of oval tubing from a metal bicycle frame or a 60° copper plumbing elbow.
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What you've done so far looks good
Thank you! I have learned a lot in the last few years on saws, and am happy to have came across this site after some years over on another site. I must say, this place is top notch! I feel like a novice again here, but am not at all intimidated with to tackle new things with such a great base to fall back on. It means a lot to have someone who has done this before give a complement on my work. Thank you, all!
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Oh, and as an aside, I broke in the new torque wrench and made sure to torque to cylinder bolts to 10n/m. Never had a use till now to use it but just thought I'd throw that in. I would have surely over-torqued them had I not used it. I have always been the type to get on 'em till they were tight type, but I am glad I went this route this time. Once again, thanks for the advice.
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What you've done so far looks good
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Well I had a bit of luck, or something like that. 24 hrs with the niece, followed by a 6hr overtime shift to grab some extra bucks, and home by 930 tonight. Wife was beat, so I got some time for me!! Got the saw assembled, most of the way, at least enough for the liquid gasket to have 3-4 days to set, so I'm happy.
Cylinder in place!!
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New intake is so much more solid, doesn't budget at all! I see why this was such a big deal, can't believe this was factory now that I've seen it!! :o
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Man it went together so much better with the new intake clamp. I really am amazed at how much play there was before as compared to now when putting the carb and air filter support back in place!
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Now the dilemma. I test fit the 288 deflector on the muffler to look at possible options for exhaust. (No offense to your effort KRL, just trying to figure how to finish it up) With the placement of the muffler bolts, I am left with the option of directing the exhaust at the bar or up and left (11 o'clock position) from drivers position, if you will. Think that will be a PITA or not so much? I think the up and left direction would probably be OK, but I do think I could get the 288 deflector onto the clutch side of the muffler also, then aim it straight forward. Only problem then is that there is the insert for the muffler bolt running through the exhaust path. Decisions.......... ???
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I do not have a 350 muffler around here to check but I did match the deflector to a 51,55 muffler and a 242/46 and it appears that it will work on those.
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OK by my measurements the deflector hole spacing is like 40mm ctc however there will be a little slop in that, the holes are for an m4 or m5 bolt so will have to be adjusted in diameter to accommodate m6 muffler bolts they could also be elongated horizontally to pick up some more room. The beauty of this is that you can run the screen if you wish.
Thanks, I wish I could take credit for it but another member turned me on to it, but it does end up looking pretty much 'factory' when done. What I do is use the muffler gasket clamped between the mounting holes on the muffler front, then trace around the inside with a carbide awl to get an exhaust sized port on the muffler front, then just cut the hole. I build saws for others so always put the screen in, I suppose that if you are not gong to run the screen the additional port could be made a little smaller that the EP.
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KRL, now that is slick! The size of the outlet looks about perfect, and having the exhaust travel straight out the front is definitely a good benefit as well. I'd have this thing done already, but Wed to Thursday wife and I watch our 3 year old niece every week, and leaving the wife alone to work on a saw will surely mean I'll be cuddling a chainsaw tonight! :D :D Hmmmm ??? Better leave that alone for now. I don't see modifying the deflector being too hard if it will fit. Thanks again!
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Yes, that is where I was going. Northwood saw sells the deflector for around $8. You have to lay it on a flat surface and use a round drift to flatten it out some. The idea here is to cut a hole in the front of the muffler and use the muffler bolts to hold the deflector and screen on. Don't tear your 361 apart, I have some here and I will measure one of mine and post the results.
The photos attached are how I have been doing the same sort of thing on a Husqvarna 261/262. On the 350 muffler you should only need to cut one hole in the front of the muffler. Be back soon with the measurement of the hole spacing on the 288 outlet.
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The muffler on this one is 503 86 28-02. I looked at the 288 deflector on my 361 and it didn't look like it would fit well, but might be able to get it on there. I'll pull it off the 361 and test fit. If it's too big anyone know of a smaller deflector like the 288 one? I'm not planning to run the screen on this saw, I keep them so I can if I want but haven't been running them in my saws. Suppose the 288 like you said on the front with exhaust directed at the clutch side?
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Does your saw use the 503 86 28-03 muffler? If so there may be enough room on the front face or top front to use a 288 outlet and screen on it. There also may be another option depending on the ctc spacing of the exhaust flange bolt holes.
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Thanks guys. I didn't do the muffler yet, plan to but just hadn't decided on how to go yet. I was thinking of cutting a slit down the recoil side and opening up a gill like down that side but welcome to ideas. I don't love this idea as it wouldn't look as good and I want a stock appearance if I can.
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Did you DP the muffler? If so remember to set your carb a little rich before first start up. I like the way it is turning out.
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Looks good! Look forward to seeing how it runs...
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Well I didn't have the time today to get it back together, but got started.
Some pics after cleaning up.
Exhaust port.
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Transfers.
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Intake.
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Transfer covers back in place and new intake and clamp in place.
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Thanks to all for your input. Hope tomorrow night I have time to put it all back together and let set for the weekend while I'm working.
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The needle bearing is included. I'm going to go ahead and use it but I'll coat it in oil before it goes in. I have heard good and bad on the meteor clips so I'm going to reuse the oem for now I think. I'll get a few more pictures up when I can.
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all the meteor kits I've seen were without the small end bearing. Good quality stuff from what I've seen, use the clips they provide just check for a clean clip groove and of proper diameter. I think most clip failures are a result improper fit or poorly machined piston grooves.
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I'm hoping to get this saw back together today, or close as I can. Couple other questions, would you use the new wrist pin bearing from the meteor kit or the original oem? Also, I plan to use the oem circlips for the time being as the dealer I ordered them from is apparently getting them made to order as I ordered them 2 weeks ago. Any reason the original ones would be a problem? Thanks.
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Ok, that will work. I can grab some of that next run out. I have to rinse out the cylinder good and then wait for the new circlips to come in still before I can put it back together. Now that the end is in sight I'm getting a little anxious to see how it runs. (Hopefully! )
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The permatex anerobic works great. I've used it on some race saw cases without the gasket with zero issues
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I have never used the surface prep. I just clean the surfaces well with MEK and a wood Q-Tip, assemble and wait the 24 hours before running the saw. PS don't get the MEK on the paint or plastic parts!
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I'll go over the port edges again with some emory paper to make sure things are nice and smooth. Felt pretty good running my finger over them. Swapped out the silicone gasket maker for permatex anaerobic gasket maker. Thanks for setting me straight there. Is it best to use the surface prep activator they talk about?
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Make sure you spend some time chamfering the ports where you cut into the factory chrome, I'd hate to see your carefully work ruined by a ring snagging a port edge. Try a craytex (rubber/diamond) wheel or some Emory paper and your fingers if you don't have a 90* porting Tool.
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You're welcome, that is what we come here for, to help others for free!
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Ok got you. I went pretty mild, just playing around to see what I get and get a feel for things. I'm not expecting a cookie cutter but would like it to be a good strong runner. It's a nice size and light as hell so I think I might like it. You guys are a great help, really appreciate everything. :)
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Be careful with the exhaust, do not lower the floor of the exhaust port so much that you create an intake short circuit situation. aka free-port
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It may be hard to see in the pictures but I did keep the rearward angle on the transfers. I only opened them towards the back/intake side. I didn't raise or lower them or open towards the exhaust side. Other than that I just smoothed out some imperfections in the transfer passage. Thanks for the tips and critiquing, it is appreciated. I did the most to the exhaust, I'll try to get some better views of it.
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Lol!!
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+1 on what motorhead just said!!! Transfer port flow direction is very important to the operation of a 2 cycle engine!
Have a look here, been in my brain for 45 years or so:
http://chainsawrepair.createaforum.com/ported-saws/two-stroke-basics/ (http://chainsawrepair.createaforum.com/ported-saws/two-stroke-basics/)
Some basic stuff that may help you achieve the performance gains you are looking for.
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When you make cuts to the transfer ports, take note of angle in which they are directed. Maintain the rearward (intake side) facing profile.
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LOL
RTV sucks for saw applications...
+1 :o
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Yep. AS KRL stated, Threebond 1194/1184, Yamabond/Hondabond/Suzukibond-4, Permatex Anerobic Gasket Maker, Motoseal, or Loctite 518 are the way to go here. RTV sucks for saw applications...
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Nope, I just looked up specs and not recommended for use in contact with gasoline. Have to go have another look tomorrow, store I went in didn't have a huge selection. Thanks.
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Most silicon gasket makers aren't recommended for gasoline environments. Not sure if the stuff you bought is an exception?
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Picked up permatex high temp red rtv gasket maker. Anyone used this before? Any issues with using a silicone material?
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That would make sense, I wondered why there was no indication of the covers on the ipl. I'll give it a try when I get the last few parts. I'll try to get some pics of the finished cylinder also. Thanks.
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OK I understand, I was looking at the IPLs and they do not show removable TP covers same as the x-torq saws. They are there but HVA does not intend them to be removed so do not show them as individual parts.
Given that Threebond, Hondabond, Yamabond, Dirko or LocTite 518 should do a good job of sealing them when reinstalled. Use a small paint brush like used for plastic models to get a thin even coat without getting the stuff into the transfers.
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I may be showing my ignorance but I cannot find anything in the IPLs that show that a 350 has removable transfer port covers.
The older 44mm bore 350's don't have removable transfer port covers. The 45mm saws have what's basically the same cylinder as a 353. The part # for the later 350 cylinder is almost, but not quite identical to the 353 cylinder #.
These saws also have a dished piston to lower the compression (to 'widen' the performance 'gap' between the less expensive 350 and the more expensive 'pro' 353). The 353 piston (OEM or Meteor) can be used in the 350 to raise compression.
For some reason they never updated the cylinder drawings in the IPL's for the newer 350's with the 353 cylinder...
353 IPL:
http://www.husqvarna.com/ddoc/HUSI/HUSI2004_AAaa/HUSI2004_AAaa__1062544-66.pdf
353 cylinder part # is 537 25 31-02.
353 ring part # is 503 28 90-11
Later 350 IPL:
http://www.husqvarna.com/ddoc/HUSI/HUSI2006_AAaa/HUSI2006_AAaa__5449075-01.pdf
Late 350 cylinder part # is 537 25 30-02
Late 350 ring part # is 503 28 90-11
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I may be showing my ignorance but I cannot find anything in the IPLs that show that a 350 has removable transfer port covers.
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Well, been a little busy and haven't had much time to play around lately, but wanted to throw up a few pics I had. They're not the best but you can see where I opened up the exhaust and rear transfers some.
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I have since done a little more on the exhaust, evened it up a bit and smoothed out the inside a bit more. Looks pretty good, just waiting on a few things to come in and then I'm going to put it all back together. Can I use liquid gasket material for the transfer port covers too? I forgot to order then at the local guy and he gets stuff slow as hell. Maybe just temporary? Thanks.
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Ok, thank you much, sir.
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I wash them in gas, then use a air gun.
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I got the ports all done, at least as far as I'd like go for now. I think I did fairly well considering this was my first rodeo. I'll get some pictures up later to be critiqued. ;D One more question, what's best for cleaning out the cylinder of all the metal from grinding and sanding? Soap and water? Baby bottle brush? Dishwasher? Thanks.
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The main goal for me here was to play around without being too far in if I mess something up. So far so good there. This saw will just be an occasional user, only because I don't have a lot of cutting to do and a bunch of saws. I do want a good runner. Checked squish parallel to wrist pin and ring in place. So far most the grinding I did was on the exhaust side. The intake looks better to begin with, where as the exhaust side is angled down and seemed more choked up anyway. Not going to do a lot, least not for now. Want to do a little in the upper transfers since the windows/covers make them so easy to get to. Then I'll see how it runs. Probably open the muffler up some too. It is a nice empty can to begin with. I'm not expecting a cookie cutter or anything, just a decent little saw. If I get decent power out of it could be a nice little camp saw.
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660, you sure on the wear limit of 1mm? that's .0393, that's huge?
That sounds huge to me also but that's what the service manual says.
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As far as porting a 350,,, the biggest gain will be in your new piston, and no base gasket. I wouldn't waste any time on any of the intake ports, maybe clean and open the exhaust port up a bit side to side. I think thats actually mental hp but thats just me. If this is a work saw that is....
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As far as checking squish with or without a ring,,, I never check with a ring in place. Make sure you check squish in line with the wrist pin, never on the intake or exhaust side. Piston will rock the same amount with or without the ring in place from intake to exhaust.
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660, you sure on the wear limit of 1mm? that's .0393, that's huge?
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FYI the wear limit on the ring is a gap of one mm
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Ok, so I had the ring upside down. That explained why it wouldn't go together so well. Much easier now. ::) Seemed to have good clearance, looked to be around. 020 with no base gasket when I checked. Took it back apart and now started on the ports, very slow with the dremel and bunch of grinding and sanding bits. Going to work a little at a time and keep at it slow until it looks good to me.Will see how it goes.
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Patience is a virtue
This I know all too well, but still have trouble remembering at times!
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Patience is a virtue
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Thanks 660, pin was aligned with the gap. I'm going to try it again tomorrow, little more time to work and less distraction!
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You need the ring gap aligned about the the pin in the groove or the assembly will never go together.
I put a single ring Dolmar 115 (44mm) together last week with just my finger nails to start the ring in the cylinder
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If I get it on on the exhaust side I can almost get it to slid down on the back side, just not quite. Like I said, I just didn't want to mess anything up. May try the cap trick, sounds like a good idea. Thanks
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Try cutting a ring off the bottom of a spray paint can lid, then split it. If you do it correctly you can grab it by the ends and squeeze it tight enough to close up the ring. Additionally it is thick enough that the cylinder will push it down for you. Worked lots of times for me in the past.
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Ok, I'm getting a little ahead of myself. Any tips on getting the piston and ring into the cylinder without a ring clamp and without damaging anything! I tried ADKStihls zip tie trick but doesn't quite do it. Really not looking to scratch up the p/c, left a little scratch on side of the new piston and walked away before I f#*@ something up.
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Does anyone have any pictures of how they opened up the ports, intake/exhaust or transfers? Covers on the transfers look like they would make it easy. Want to just open them a little and smooth things out a little, but seeing some other's work might be helpful. Thanks!
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I don't plan to use them. The oem were single ear. Lost one taking them out. Going to stop at a dealer and get a pair of new oem. Need a couple other errant things for it anyway.
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Just seen a post by JJ a member here too made a couple minutes ago. Talking about the double eared circlips that come with the meteor kits.
Don't use those "double ear" wrist pin clips...
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I did forget to mention that the intake boot was extremely loose as well. I slipped it right off with my fingers without loosening the clamp at all.
Thats what I am seeing that burns most of them up IMO, with the air leak it creates. The ones with the molded plastic clamps. The deform or something from the heat I am guessing.
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I did forget to mention that the intake boot was extremely loose as well. I slipped it right off with my fingers without loosening the clamp at all.
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Actually, that would make sense. :-\ I was just thinking it would be easier taking it on and off without the ring, but makes sense that I'd want it as it would be running. Well, I had one of those moments that makes you wonder what the hell I was thinking today. After I let it cool down I started taking the saw back apart a little while ago. Pull the muffler and see 2 light score marks down the exhaust side of the piston. Hmm. Pull the plug, its really light. It was black when I got the saw, and I only made those 5-6 cuts today. ??? Turn around to pull the carb and notice the H and L screws, which I had ground the limit tabs off of when I took it apart last week...Hmmm, don't believe I reset the carb!! It didn't sound too lean to me when I made those cuts and I didn't push it, so I got away lucky. The cylinder is fine. 2 really light marks above the exhaust port but I can't even feel them with my finger nail. The ring looks fine and moves freely. Good thing I just wanted to make a couple cuts, but man I feel dumb. BUT, got a nice new piston to put in anyway!
Here are some pics of the saw so far.
(https://chainsawrepair.createaforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.forestryforum.com%2Fgallery%2Falbums%2Fuserpics%2F21019%2FDSC01883.JPG&hash=a0ef68f0adc72f969d595943ae1a6af81486da78)
(https://chainsawrepair.createaforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.forestryforum.com%2Fgallery%2Falbums%2Fuserpics%2F21019%2FDSC01886.JPG&hash=a9d06d1a1dac122ac2b09fea16e0552dc1372312)
(https://chainsawrepair.createaforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.forestryforum.com%2Fgallery%2Falbums%2Fuserpics%2F21019%2FDSC01896.JPG&hash=5cd2eeb8681c3240c2b281c453c03b06ecfd4541)
Lucky day!
(https://chainsawrepair.createaforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.forestryforum.com%2Fgallery%2Falbums%2Fuserpics%2F21019%2FDSC01897.JPG&hash=aa2d0dc72d7fbe8eaf75300c728bc56d0bf4de39)
(https://chainsawrepair.createaforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.forestryforum.com%2Fgallery%2Falbums%2Fuserpics%2F21019%2FDSC01898.JPG&hash=f14fb2827352aef0cdbb2e67a2d848e31211e0f1)
(https://chainsawrepair.createaforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.forestryforum.com%2Fgallery%2Falbums%2Fuserpics%2F21019%2FDSC01899.JPG&hash=449c88abf6c2d926cffa711005dbb0ad261ce261)
New piston compared to stock.
(https://chainsawrepair.createaforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.forestryforum.com%2Fgallery%2Falbums%2Fuserpics%2F21019%2FDSC01902.JPG&hash=649100426a336c6ab2eca1b34c57253fd89d44c7)
(https://chainsawrepair.createaforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.forestryforum.com%2Fgallery%2Falbums%2Fuserpics%2F21019%2FDSC01904.JPG&hash=b921c40335add65ee341aeabaa03810002a8d91e)
(https://chainsawrepair.createaforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.forestryforum.com%2Fgallery%2Falbums%2Fuserpics%2F21019%2FDSC01906.JPG&hash=eab3688c92997d25edb77185db6dec754f284555)
(https://chainsawrepair.createaforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.forestryforum.com%2Fgallery%2Falbums%2Fuserpics%2F21019%2FDSC01907.JPG&hash=a242092bd7531cc2c0c6b785a2b3590cd8293504)
Thanks for the continued help and tips. I had a decent idea of what I was doing to start but all the advice it a great help! ;D
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The ring will help hold the piston more true and square in the cylinder bore
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IMHO when you do your test fit, you should have the ring on the piston. Not doing so will yield less than accurate squish measurements
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I put it back together and made a few cuts quick. Not a bad little runner, has 18" .325 setup with a spur sprocket. (I'm guessing7 tooth?) Has a bumper link chain that had a decent edge so didn't bother to file, just made some cuts. Didn't time them to see what I get in gains. I'm going to take some pics as I go along and post after. Have any of you done yours without a base gasket? I checked the squish with some solder and its pretty close on clearance as it is. When I get it apart I'll test fit it without the ring and no gasket.
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I don't have the boot off yet, I work every weekend, Friday afternoon to Sunday night, and haven't done anything since last week. I was not planning to replace the boot until I pull the cylinder off, but the carb was a pain to get out.
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The usual procedure is to remove and attach the boot from the cylinder with the cylinder removed from the crankcase. Or at least raised up a little?
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I got the piston in the mail yesterday. Looks really well made, and it came with the double ear clips. Is it best to get a pair of new oem for them? I don't imagine I'd want to reuse the ones on the existing piston. It dawned on me today that I started tearing it down last week without making a cut yet. ::) I suppose I ought to put it back together while I only have the carb off and see how it goes before I rip it down and replace the piston. Looks like I get to out it back together tomorrow and try it out. Then rip it back apart! Did I mention I don't like the setup of the carb on this saw? Real pita IMO.
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If it will make life easier for me then guess it's a bonus I just got the update kit. Kevin, I just looked that thread over recently and a lot of good info in there. Figured with this being first saw I took the top end off I'd ask a little more and make sure I don't miss anything. Thanks again for the help.
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Thread husky 350 with some good info and redneck fixes. http://chainsawrepair.createaforum.com/husqvarna/350-options/80/
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You will find the new intake in the boot kit to look a little different in the area where the clamp goes.
You would have had to modify your existing boot to look almost like this to use the original boot with the 372 clamp.
Be careful attaching the carb to the boot that you don't strip the screws out.
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Also, local Husqvarna shop didn't have a 372 intake clamp so had to get it as a kit for the 350 with new intake boot. Little more expensive but not much and will have a trustworthy intake.
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Fair enough 660, I'm sure you have much more working knowledge of this so I'll give them a tightening after it's back together and hot. I grabbed a set of long allen wrenches at HF today, and did get the regular, not ball ended ones. I read that post after going but thought the same thing when looking at them. Also order new piston this morning and it shipped before I got done running around! ;D Hopefully next week I'll get it tore down and put back together.
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Think guys are misunderstanding what I said about double eared clips.
IF OEM I use the double eared. Have them in saws.
I will NOT use aftermarket double eared.
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OBTW on the long reach Allen sockets from HF, they are available in both standard and 'ball end'. I personally do not trust the ball end version in torqing situations and opt for standard.
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For some reason to check them one more time while hot makes them stay tight.
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Thanks again gents. I hadn't even thought of HF, don't go there that often. 660, are you saying to re tighten when everything is hot? I thought that was a bad idea? Can't recall off the top of my head but I thought I remembered where this could cause bolts to loosen once things cooled and contracted. ???
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However, one big secret I have discovered by experience, and that is on the parts that get hot, like muffler bolts and cylinder bolts, I have found that after you have run the engine and everything is still as hot as it gets, I feel of all the screws with a wrench. If you make sure they are the tightness that you normally make them and at this temperature, they will not give you any trouble in the future.
In the past, i have worked on a lot of engines that someone else worked on before me. Some people have a terribly heavy hand and make the screws too tight. About one out of ten engines I work on are this way. My biggest fear on working on a strange someone's engine is that they have already stripped a thread somewhere!
+1 on the above OBTW/IIRC the Husqvarna spec for cylinder to case bolts is 8 to 10NM depending on model.
You can get a decent set on 3/8 allen long reach sockets (straight or ball end) at Harbor Freight not more than $15 not Snap ON but they work.
http://www.harborfreight.com/7-piece-38-drive-metric-long-reach-hex-bit-socket-set-67890.html
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I use a Armstrong torque wrench and have used one for some 60 years. I've never had any trouble. I just use common sense.
However, one big secret I have discovered by experience, and that is on the parts that get hot, like muffler bolts and cylinder bolts, I have found that after you have run the engine and everything is still as hot as it gets, I feel of all the screws with a wrench. If you make sure they are the tightness that you normally make them and at this temperature, they will not give you any trouble in the future.
In the past, i have worked on a lot of engines that someone else worked on before me. Some people have a terribly heavy hand and make the screws too tight. About one out of ten engines I work on are this way. My biggest fear on working on a strange someone's engine is that they have already stripped a thread somewhere?
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The "proper" way is to torque the bolts to spec.
That being said I never have and have been inside hundreds of them without incident.
I just tighten them down until the T handle starts to twist slightly and let that do it.
If you are relatively sure that you won't be back in there a drop of Loctite will help.
Mike
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One more question on pulling the cylinder, I haven't pulled and replaced one before and was wondering about torquing the cylinder bolts down after. I have T handle that will pull the bolts out but is a torque wrench best to reassemble? I assume so, but not sure where to get allen bits that long?
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I won't use AM clips for dang sure not Golf ( been weaned). Never used the Meteor clips. I reuse Oem or use new OEM. I know one guy in particular that uses the Meteor clips he said over a hundred w/no problems. I have used the double ears clips with no problems.
Shep
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That is a better piston than the OEM that came in there from the factory.
I put a Golf piston in my 350 and it performed great!
I sold it to a guy at work because of the screw down top cover and he LOVES that saw.
Mike
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The Meteor 45mm 353 piston has ears on both sides of the clips
http://www.hlsproparts.com/Meteor-Husqvarna-350-353-piston-and-ring-p/pc2205.htm
That is what I was looking at. I'll have to give it a more thorough look over once I get it.
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I have a meteor piston coming from hls, I'll be sure to check it out when it gets here
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This 066 has notch and the single tail lot like the one I used. http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-PISTON-RING-ASSY-FITS-STIHL-066-CHAINSAWS-56MM-BIG-BORE-STIHL-MS660-/171203014925?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27dc7eb10d
If you look at 066 afm circlips show like OEM, 1 tail and double tail too.
double http://www.ebay.com/itm/PISTON-AND-RING-KIT-Fits-STIHL-066-MS660-54-MM-/170796472655?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27c443594f
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Stihl-066-MS660-piston-and-rings-assembly-54mm-/200934142805?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2ec89bb355
like oem circlip http://www.ebay.com/itm/PISTON-KIT-FOR-STIHL-REPLACES-OEM-1122-030-2005-54mm-FITS-STIHL-066-MS660-/261298831861?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3cd69fc1f5
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See the notch in this 372 piston
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Meteor-Piston-kit-for-HUSQVARNA-371-372-XP-50mm-/320906288414?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4ab7815d1e
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The piston is made different for a no ear circlip. The piston has a notch near the groove at the 4:30 position. This is so you can get a scribe under the circlip wire at the notch to remove the circlip.
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Just because their in the pic dont mean you will get double eared. I have OEM double eared in some saws no problems.
I have talked with a very reputable porter builder and he also shared the meteor doubled ear failures I been reading about. All of them I have read about were in the 346 meteor kits. This 1 guy kept using them in rebuilds even though he was told and knew better. He kept selling them to folks on a bigger site and I kept seeing people complaining of failures of the ear breaking off the double ears meteor circlips.
Thats why I try and warn folks.
I used a single ear afm with extra long ear on circlip, I knew to trim on a 066 piston on thinking a hyway piston. But I installed as is just to see being it was my saw. Still holding up good.
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The Meteor 45mm 353 piston has ears on both sides of the clips
http://www.hlsproparts.com/Meteor-Husqvarna-350-353-piston-and-ring-p/pc2205.htm
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http://www.hlsproparts.com/Meteor-Husqvarna-394-piston-and-rings-assembly-p/pc1716.htm
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All my Meteor pistons came with pin clip rings with no tails on either side. They are for the Dolmar 115, Dolmar 6800, and Husqvarna 372.
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IMO if you happen to get the meteor c-clips that are double tailed (pass on the meteor 2 tail ones) use the oem if they fit the groove.
I have had no problems from the single 1 tailed meteor clips, if that is what comes in your kit use them.
My not so stock 10mm 044 has been living with the double eared clips for quite some time now.
I don't run it a lot, but since the rebuild I've put 3.4hrs on the top end. (OEM jug, Meteor piston & clips, OEM pin & bearing).
With all the negative hype Ive heard about the double ear clips, I expected catastrophic failure within the first 5mins.
That was many gallons of fuel ago.
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Just wondering whats wrong with the 2 tail meteor clips?
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If I remember the one I looked at had the 2 tail ends on them. I'll look when I order it up.
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IMO if you happen to get the meteor c-clips that are double tailed (pass on the meteor 2 tail ones) use the oem if they fit the groove.
I have had no problems from the single 1 tailed meteor clips, if that is what comes in your kit use them.
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I used the Meteor clips
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Thanks guys. Before I pull the p/c I'll try to get the squish with a piece of solder. When I get the new piston would it be ok to use the clips that come with the kit or the factory circlips on the current piston? I have heard some aren't as good.
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Yamabond hondabond threebond all the same stuff and there are others.
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+1 +1 on what 660 and alsled said.
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I was planning on the mm as well. What is best for removing the base gasket? Yama bond or something similar? I looked at the ipl but only see one gasket listed there. I was thinking of polishing the intake and exhaust, maybe widening a little but not changing timing. Any other ideas? Thanks
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Check squish before you take it apart, check squish with new piston with out base gasket, I opened the exhaust port up a bit side to side, not on the height.
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I would just check into eliminating the cylinder base gasket, the 353 piston, and a muffler mod.
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I just picked up a used but good condition 350 on the cheap and am looking to do some mods for more power out of it. I tore it down yesterday without trying it in any wood, but it seems to run well, 2nd pull starter every time. Looking closer the piston is the dished type and I plan to order and replace with a Meteor 353 piston. The engine has a good bit of carbon inside on piston and on the plug, so it doesn't look like it was run lean. Got the carb off (pita, btw) and see there is still the plastic intake clamp so I will have to replace it with a 372 metal clamp. What have other done to theirs for more out of it? Maybe try my hand at a little porting, but would be my first go at it so any info is appreciated! Thanks.