Chainsaw Repair
Husqvarna - Stihl - Poulan - Jonsered - Dolmar chainsaws and more => Poulan => Topic started by: Tractorsaw1 on January 13, 2014, 01:34:27 pm
-
Well sorry no vids, but it is really a cutting mofo. This thing is gonna be a lot of fun. With a 16" bar it really ran well. Muffler mod only at this time. At some point I will do some more, but its a great runner as is. Surprised these things are not more common, great small saw!
Not bad saws either for there weight and size.
-
Well sorry no vids, but it is really a cutting mofo. This thing is gonna be a lot of fun. With a 16" bar it really ran well. Muffler mod only at this time. At some point I will do some more, but its a great runner as is. Surprised these things are not more common, great small saw!
-
Are there any side covers with side chain tension that are close to working on this series?
I'm not aware of any.
-
You were right Kevin, carb needed some help. Guess that new hda164 I got needs a diaphragm. I will try to take some video cutn with it this afternoon. I think Im really gonna like this one. I finally pulled a carb off a 2700 that is sitting in line for an augmentation, wow she runs great now!
Are there any side covers with side chain tension that are close to working on this series?
-
I'd get it running perfect stock first. Then worry about porting later. JMO.
-
Maybe its portn time witha crank case fill up then. ;D
-
Saw dont have to be warm. I checked my 475 when project stage with cylinder off with mix and found the flywheel seal leak, before ever even putting the saw together.
-
idle and toss side to side to see if any rpm range changes up in rpm or dies or almost dies.
-
Ok great tips thanks. I was kinda waitn to pull the cylinder off until i had it runnin good to warm it up a little. Are you just letting it idle on the side to side test?
-
I just redneck test and havent missed one yet. Side to side if running and then with spraying around seal.
If I have the cylinder off I check with mix in crankcase. Never missed one yet if seals.
-
no, im kinda rookie on the pressure/vac test, i do have a mity vac at home, guess i need to figure out how to use it.
-
Have you checked crank seals for air leak? Just throwing things to check.
-
I use mowers4u if he dont have it listed just call or email and ask. They has gotten me oem poulan stuff before that wasnt listed.
http://www.mowers4u.com/
-
No, i did not. I had a new hda 164 that i swaped on it ran great at first, then acted the same as the hd49 that was on it, so i had kinda ruled the carb out, but maybe not. I should of grapped the 49 off the running 2700, I will try that first. Wheres a good place to pick up a carb kit for the 49's?
-
You rebuild the carb with new diaphragms? Sounds like my 1st 3750 when the dias got stiff.
-
I seems to run great at first start up, then when it hits the wood, bogs 0 power. I just had thought about the 1/16 side to side play & wondered about it. I guess i will go order the dolmar fuel line & wait for it to come in & check it all out at once.
-
These have side to side play. Seems real sloppy side to side play compared to what you get used to IMO. But they work. Just make sure no up down play.
I dont remember your symptoms. But seals are common on these for the ones I worked on, impulse line, carb kits, intake boots, base gasket crack or leaks, etc.
-
Should there be any side to side play on the crankshaft? I think i got more problems than the vent. I added the duck bill setup to it, and no change:(
-
I'm full of BS and some times have More Sh^t
If I get started I have a PHD (Piled higher and deeper) degree
Ah a true student of the Redneck Sciences. Working towards your doctorate.8)
-
I'm full of BS and some times have More Sh^t
If I get started I have a PHD (Piled higher and deeper) degree
-
Having a Masters degree in Redneck engineering, I can tell you with certainty that although tygon is a poor impulse line, if you can't find the right size line, a 3/8ths inch long piece of tygon will make a suitable shim inside an automotive line that's too big.
You can cut the end at an angle to facilitate installation.
Make sure you have a squeeze clip that will make it nice and snug.
Mike
Yeah that'd work fine. I'm still working on my masters. Got my B.S. a while ago........8)
-
Having a Masters degree in Redneck engineering, I can tell you with certainty that although tygon is a poor impulse line, if you can't find the right size line, a 3/8ths inch long piece of tygon will make a suitable shim inside an automotive line that's too big.
You can cut the end at an angle to facilitate installation.
Make sure you have a squeeze clip that will make it nice and snug.
Mike
-
Big thanks again Aaron, the dealer, well there not big time, so of course they didn't have the duck bill. I gonna look over my stuff tonight & see what I got to work with.
-
Is the duck bill like whats on a homelite super2 type saws? I have a craftsman 2.0 at home is that a micro? The barb fitting says leaves are wharehouse in 5-10 days, I would roll thru the husky dealer, but I don't really want to take half the saw apart, probably what someone started to do that landed this thing as a parts saw to start with ;D I guess I am either going to have to swap tanks = take half the saw apart, 372 vent = take half of saw apart, or try & find that barb locally. I'll have to look closer at the saw with the goo on the extra tygon coming out the tank, Kevins redneck type of repair!
The 530026119 duckbill valve is a current Poulan and Husqvarna part #, as that valve was (and still is) used on some Husqvarna machines. Your dealer should stock it. The double barb fitting they can order. The Micro application fitting can also be ordered through them, and may be in stock as the Husqvarna 23 was a Poulan Micro in orange clothing as well. Your Craftsman 2.0 is indeed a Micro series saw, and is basically a private label Poulan 2000.
You can use the Homelite 69451 duckbill (as used in many Homelite gas caps and also in the oil and fuel tanks of an XL2/Super2) here as well. It may be too loose for the 'correct' double-barb fitting..............but is a good fit on the Micro double-barb fitting. Those duckbills are still sold through Oregon and Stens dealers.
I just started a new thread here covering this tank vent retrofit.
http://chainsawrepair.createaforum.com/poulan/poulan-34503750-and-poulanpro-330380-tank-vent-retrofit/msg32351/#msg32351
-
Is the duck bill like whats on a homelite super2 type saws? I have a craftsman 2.0 at home is that a micro? The barb fitting says leaves are wharehouse in 5-10 days, I would roll thru the husky dealer, but I don't really want to take half the saw apart, probably what someone started to do that landed this thing as a parts saw to start with ;D I guess I am either going to have to swap tanks = take half the saw apart, 372 vent = take half of saw apart, or try & find that barb locally. I'll have to look closer at the saw with the goo on the extra tygon coming out the tank, Kevins redneck type of repair!
-
Thanks Aaron, it makes more sense now.
You're welcome. I should have put that pic in my earlier post. Will go put it in there now...
-
http://www.ereplacementparts.com/fuel-line-fitting-p-236335.html
(https://chainsawrepair.createaforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ereplacementparts.com%2Fimages%2Fpart_p_236335_399827023_med.gif&hash=374381e45854af173d8310c004351d331e01efe0)
This is the double barb fuel line fitting from a Poulan Micro series saw. It can also be used in a vent application (I've done so), but that's not it's intended purpose. It has 'equal length' barbs that are meant to have a fuel line on each end. Doesn't have a short end for the duckbill and the longer end (with less pronounced barb ridges) for passing through the tank wall. Works well enough though. It's more expensive than the 'right' part, but is fine to use if that's all ya got. I used one as I had a Micro parts saw laying around at the time...
-
Thanks Aaron, it makes more sense now.
-
Duckbill (530026119) goes on the short end. Put the piece of fuel line on the long end and pull it through the hole in the tank (from the inside out). If the hole and line are the right size, the fitting will butt against the tank wall and the line will make a tight seal between the fitting and the tank.
If the hole's too small (or the line's too thick) the long barb end of the fitting won't pass through the hole. If the hole's too big (or the line's too thin or has decayed) then it'll leak....
-
http://www.ereplacementparts.com/vent-fitting-p-234906.html
(https://chainsawrepair.createaforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ereplacementparts.com%2Fimages%2Fpart_530024475_med.gif&hash=4600a598b2cc5fd6db9f6f4f22087d90b57166f1)
-
Thanks Kevin, I did some searching but dig in deep enough. Any pictures of the double barb fitting that Aaron was talking about? I think 1 of the tanks maybe has that on it, I will check it out tonight.
-
Some threads on poulan tank vents. OEM and other ideas around them. Part numbers etc too.
http://chainsawrepair.createaforum.com/poulan/3450-tankhandle-replacement/msg30580/#msg30580
http://chainsawrepair.createaforum.com/poulan/poulan-pro-330-and-poulan-3450/
http://chainsawrepair.createaforum.com/poulan/poulan-pro-330/
-
Well I think I got tank vent issues. I have 2 2700 & this 3.3. Each tank has something different for the tank vent. I don't see that type setup on this 3.3. The one 2700 looks like someone glued another line next to the carb fuel line, what is the best way to setup this tank, any fittings, size line etc do i need to do this. The saw runs great on start up, but put it to some wood & it almost dies? Thanks
-
Kinda first for me, this saw had a little small clamp that was up above the barb, not sure why it was there (wasn't doing any good above the barb), but did these saws come with one of those squeeze it type clamps?
Seems the carb kits a little steep for the ol hda-49, i got another carb I'm gonna try out first.
Just as Aaron said it is normal to find a clamp on the impulse line attached to the cylinder.
-
You know I know them part numbers for the stihl dolmar and maybe the echo lines used for impluse lines are in threads some where.
I think we need to dig up the info and make a Impulse line thread and save it in the how to area.
The Magic Dolmar Number is 965 452 660 $10.28 for one meter Viton
It is sort of a reddish brown and has EPA-MSX-FA stamped all along it from one end to the other.
This tubing is not directly listed on any Dolmar IPL but typically comes up as a supersede for the impulse line from many suppliers
-
You know I know them part numbers for the stihl dolmar and maybe the echo lines used for impluse lines are in threads some where.
I think we need to dig up the info and make a Impulse line thread and save it in the how to area.
Good idea. The stock Poulan impulse line on these saws was lousy stuff. What was on my 330 felt like chewing gum, and the OEM replacement piece was so sub-standard that I went and got some Echo line to use instead.
-
You know I know them part numbers for the stihl dolmar and maybe the echo lines used for impluse lines are in threads some where.
I think we need to dig up the info and make a Impulse line thread and save it in the how to area.
-
I'm goin with "incorrectly installed". I bought this as a parts saw off the bay for $26. The pictures were not the greatest, but was said to have spark & 140 psi. I still can't figure out why the chain side av pieces were gone & no screws, no chain catcher, no side tensioner etc. The saw looked pretty good, the impulse was on at the cylinder but not on the carb. Someone had pried hell out of the muffler I guess to split the seam, & threw that diffuser in layin on the bottom, you could shake the saw & hear it flop around? It had the rope replaced. don't know.
-
I'd forgotten the Dolmar line. Tygon type vinyl line is completely unsuitable for an impulse application because it will fail with the heat. Rubber line is the way to go. High temp automotive 'emissions' line works fine if you can get it in the right size.
That saw would have had a small wire spring clamp on the line at the cylinder end. It probably slipped out of position or was incorrectly installed on that saw.
-
Tygon gets very soft when hot. It will swell and contract as a impulse hose.
Viton would be a better choice?
I ordered a impulse hose for my Dolmar 7900 and they sent me 39.4 inches of it. It is very nice thick walled stuff.
-
Kinda first for me, this saw had a little small clamp that was up above the barb, not sure why it was there (wasn't doing any good above the barb), but did these saws come with one of those squeeze it type clamps?
Seems the carb kits a little steep for the ol hda-49, i got another carb I'm gonna try out first.
-
Back 50 years or so, I used to mold vinyl lines to fit certain model airplane situations.
You would bend a 12 gauge wire in the shape with the twist and turns you wanted and boil it in water for 30 min, then let it cool down in the pan of water to room temperature.
Then remove the wire and the tube was formed in the new shape.
Don't know if this will work on the yellow-green Tygon or not?
-
Ill have to look around for maybe an echo dealer. After he pointed to the tygoon pyle, he said pretty much the same thing with needing to order the special molded lines. After reading up on this i had to laugh at myself. Years ago I had a jonsered 920, you guessed it ran great until it half melted the make shift impulse line that would promptly fall off.
-
You're right to not want Tygon type line for the impulse hose. Not the right stuff for the application. Got any Echo dealers around? The black Echo fuel line is good for impulse tube. Homelite black or grey fuel line will also work fine. The Husqvarna 'pigtail' stuff would work except it's a bit large on the ID for the barbs on that saw.
The back Stihl line will work.................but for unknown reasons some dealers don't stock it (at least in my area). One dealer (that didn't stock that line) said all the Stihls use machine-specific molded lines. Well yeah all your current machines may use those molded lines..........but don't you ever service an older Stihl machine that did use 'bulk' line? Oh well....
-
Well I finally put the pieces together I had rounded up to put this parts saw together. I think this will be a nice small saw if I get it dialed in the way I want it. I thought is was going to run ok pretty much in stock form, but I think I need to fix up some things. I think the carb needs rebuilt, while I could get some adjustment out of the needles, never really got it where I wanted it. First thing I want to replace is the impulse line. I stopped at 3 local automotive stores to find reinforced fuel line with a 3/32 id, none had it. 5/32 was as small as they had so first question is what is everyone using? When I stopped at the stihl dealer to ask about the weed eater fuel line, the guy's dad was filling in for the owner he points to a bucket with pieces of tygoon in it & says there you go, no thanks i say with a smile & leave. I will try & post up some pictures this evening