Chainsaw Repair

Husqvarna - Stihl - Poulan - Jonsered - Dolmar chainsaws and more => Husqvarna => Topic started by: RevolutionRepairs on July 04, 2020, 11:35:55 am

Title: Re: Pulling my hair out - Rebuild of 353
Post by: Cut4fun . on July 09, 2020, 04:08:34 pm

Was following.

Thanks for posting findings and fix. 

Title: Re: Pulling my hair out - Rebuild of 353
Post by: RevolutionRepairs on July 09, 2020, 10:39:52 am

Thanks for the replies Peeps....I got into it a bit more yesterday.  The cylinder seems perfect. I rechecked all I have done and noticed the spark was kind of weak.  I re-gapped the coil as it seemed a little wide and the spark did not visibly get any better. 

I dug out the oil coil which at the time of removal was buried in oil and saw dust.  I suspected overheating hence the change out of the coil.  I had the new one so what the heck, change it out.  I cleaned the coil area to spotless when i put the new coil in and cleaned off the old coil too.  So I re-installed the old coil (an OEM one) and the spark visibly improved. 

Put the whole thing back together and it started an ran like a champ........So the lesson learned is again knock off parts are shite and even new stuff can be faulty.

I gave the saw back to my neighbor and said have at her and report back.

Title: Re: Pulling my hair out - Rebuild of 353
Post by: Spike60 on July 08, 2020, 06:32:58 am

Re-eading this, I see that I missed the part about the saw still running OK at full throttle. Sometimes these early morning posts.......sorry. That cylinder starting to fail is less likely, but I'd still have another look at it to be sure, because of that shut down after getting hot deal. Does it run OK at full throttle for a short burst or does it continue to run good while actually working it? If the cylinder is good, it could still be a carb issue. Not all carbs respond to a rebuild. But they are too pricey to take a guess. Do you have another carb layng around to try?

One little part that often gets overlooked on the intake is the small impulse line from the partition wall to the boot flange. Becuase 346/353 bottom ends almost never fail I do get lazy and usually do a rebuild without checking them. Idealy, the right way to do any saw is to do a vac/pressure test before even taking it apart. But after a while, you get to know the tendencies of the various models and some you do right away, and others you're not as concerned about.

Title: Re: Pulling my hair out - Rebuild of 353
Post by: 3000 FPS on July 06, 2020, 10:59:33 am

I was just wondering if the crank seals were replaced at the same time you did the piston and cylinder.   
I would go back to the beginning and start checking for air leaks and then go from there.   

Title: Re: Pulling my hair out - Rebuild of 353
Post by: Spike60 on July 06, 2020, 06:20:36 am

Tough to answer questions like this when it's on someone elses bench and you can't hear it yourself. No idle is usually one of 2 things. Loading up; meaning too much fuel. Or running out of fuel; leaning out in the idle circuit on the lo side of the carb. If not the carb itself, an air leak on the intake can cause this.

But in this case, I suspect the top end from Amazon may have burned up already.  If all was well when it left your shop and the problem appeared when it shut down after it got good and hot, first thing I'd do is to check that cylinder/compression first. If it's OK, then we can look for carb or air leak problems. Always need to know why the original cylinder failed before replacing a top end. 346/353 bottom ends rarely have issues ; it's almost always intake/fuel related.

I'm assuming here that you used an inexpensive top end, not an OEM one from Husky. Sometimes they work, sometimes they don't. An OEM 346 kit only costs about $110 and bolts right on a 353 with no other changes.

Title: Pulling my hair out - Rebuild of 353
Post by: RevolutionRepairs on July 04, 2020, 11:35:55 am

Hi All......New here and seeking advice please.

I'm in too deep now to quit on my neighbours saw rebuild.  Its an older 353 but in good shape but had running issues.  Piston was all scored up so I bought a cylinder and piston kit form Amazon.  All went well and Jim reported the saw ran well until it stalled when good and hot and was difficult if not impossible to start again.  So I had it back and thought it maybe sucking air from the intake system.  Ordered OEM intake bellow and the rest of what is between the carb and the cylinder.

Now I'm having idle issues.  So i rebuilt the carb with a Zama kit.  I can start it OK if I have my finger on the gas but no way can I set the idle to stop it staling when it been running a while.  Runs fine at full throttle.

Have replace the plug, fuel line and filter too.

Basically its a total rebuild but the idle issue is bugging me.......Any ideas please.