Chainsaw Repair
Husqvarna - Stihl - Poulan - Jonsered - Dolmar chainsaws and more => McCulloch => Topic started by: super44 on July 04, 2012, 08:06:59 pm
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What kind of modifacation would be needed to fit a 805 style bar to a Super Pro 125??
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It won't work because the tail stock is too narrow .
What will work is a reworked wide style Stihl bar .You need to make spacer bushings to slip over the 3/8" bar studs that will increase the size to 12MM size of the bar slot .Rework the oil hole a tad and enlarge the tightening hole . I have a Windser 36" Stihl mount that fits both that Homelite on my avatar as well as a125 McCulloch .
Having reworked things on the Homelite the standard 105 driver count in .404 will work .If used on the large Mac it will work with a 7 tooth rim but a driver short to work with an 8 tooth .I have no idea what the count would be using 3/8".
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I have a 125 coming to stay at my place. I will be looking for a bar of about 34 inches to do a "little" lumber cutting with. It sounds like the driver on the 125 is larger than the 805 making the bar larger where the links enter and leave?
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You're getting confused or I didn't explain it enough ."Driver " meaning the amount of drive links on the chain not the drive system .
The 10 series saws use 5/16" bar studs ,the large Macs like the 125 use 3/8" studs so the 10 series bar in that respect wouldn't work unless the slot were milled out .Do to the fact the tail of a 10 series bar is not wide enough to both engauge the bar tightening apparatus plus not wide enough to engauge the oiling hole it just won't work .
This same question arose on another forum maybe 2 months ago .To find out for certain I layed a 10 series bar over a Mac 125 style and there's just no way it could work .
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I missunderstood. I got a 34 inch hard nose bar last year that used small rings over the mounting bolts on my 805. I will try that one when the 125 powerhead arrives. Is a bar from a 1-43 or a 250 the same as a 125 bar?
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Yes but one of any size will be hard to find .
I'll dig around and show what I mean on using a Stihl mount bar .Those are plentifull ,the OEM large mount McCullochs' are not
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Re reading that post ,from what you said about the bushings that 34" bar just might work . 34" is an odd size .Generally you measure the usable length to determine size . If it's 34" nose to tail it would be around 30" usable .
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The box for the bar has 323960 for a PN. It's labled 34" hard nose bar. The bushing were supplied by the seller.
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(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7240/7382744446_6c899b1899_z.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/41385771@N03/7382744446/)
Untitled (http://www.flickr.com/photos/41385771@N03/7382744446/) by zweitakt250 (http://www.flickr.com/people/41385771@N03/), on Flickr
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Mine is to be here Thursay. ;D ;D
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The 36" on the all yellow 125 is basically the same style Windsor bar as shown with the McCulloch brand on it except it's a Stihl mount .
That one is I think 105 drivers of .404 .The 36" Mcculloch bar I also have uses 109 drivers but both are listed as 36" bars .
The 48" hard nose on the "black beauty" is 143 drivers yet oddly enough that driver count is what they call a 50" bar in Stihl mount size .So what I'm saying is they all have some degree of variation as to how they determine bar length .
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I would be interested in a chart of the different style mounts. I have several bars that it would be helpfull to identify.
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This might be helpfull http://www.acresinternet.com/cscc.nsf/673d78ec01557aea88256b00005457e6/e39f46cf37dbe4a088256e0d0051dd49?OpenDocument
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It helpful, thanks.
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The recoil on the 125 is the same as what other saws? I have a 250 that looks to have the same recoil as my 125 but I really don't want to start taking parts off a nice saw.
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Unless you break the starter there isn't much that can go wrong with it other than the spring .Even if so often you just heat the end and bend a new hook on it .
I'm certain a 250 recoil will work and suspect just about any left start reed valve like the 300 etc .
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It has a grove worn thru where the pull rope rubs. Never seen anything like it before.
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Well that can happen ,rarely .
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What is the trick to getting the recoil apart so I can fix the spring? I'm pretty sure it is a simple job or maybe a trick to it?
I got it apart, just needed a better grip.
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I've done enough dinging with this 125 to cut a little wood today ;D. I set it down to move the log I was cutting and the saw died. Went to restart it and the recoil spring let go >:(. What does the spring end look like to keep it in place?
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It's just got a hook on the end .Heat it up first to about red hot else you'll break it trying to bend a hook .
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Give me a couple days and I'll rifle through my junk and see if I have one apart .If so I'll snap picture .If not I'm not going to peel one down to get a picture .They're a pain in the buttocks to wind back up .I'm a nice guy just not that nice .
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Ah, a curmudgeon, I'm resemble that remark. ;D
What kind of screws and nuts did they use for the flywheel cover? The screws were loose or missing after 10 minutes of running.
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Found a picture of a new spring so I heated it up and bent it in the U shape. I also am using Nylock nuts on the screws this time around. I still wonder what the original nuts were like on the 125 macs?
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They were a kind of lock nut with a distorted notch in them .I wouldn't worry about it too much because likely 90 percent of them still in running condition have lost the lock nuts years ago .
I think the original bolts were hex headed 10-24 with a screw driver slot in them .Myself I just stick them together with 10-32 socket heads and put the tights to them .They don't rattle loose or at least haven't so far .
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Would it be fair to say these big saws were used only when the extra size and power were really needed? If you had a big saw you also had a couple medium and small saws. The thing is a beast to move around even with just a 20 inch bar.
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At least that is what is done today.
Don't be using a bigger chainsaw than what you really need.
But to use my Stihl 084 in a big log, it is not heavy and clumsy.
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A 125 is really not that clumsy any more than an 084 .Either one you're not going to use that much as a general rule .Like that Homey in my avatar with a 48" bar .I think I've used that thing 4 or 5 times .You're never going to even wear out a chain at that rate for decades .Probabley a good thing because they've gotten rather costly .
Just last week I got a 123 driver loop of .404 skip chisel for the 084 and it was like 56 bucks from Baileys .I'd hate to even venture a guess what it would have been at the Stihl dealers .
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Maybe clumbsy is the wrong word. I have a Homelite Super EZ and several 10-10's that get most of the run time. Compared to them the 125 is a beast that for sure has a place but gets to watch most of the time. It sure has a very different sound than the little guys!!
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That big old reed valve engine is a clydesdale of a saw .Very few people actually use them anymore but for that matter very few use huge saws period .If you get it running right chances are you'll never wear it out .
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The recoil on the 125 is the same as what other saws? I have a 250 that looks to have the same recoil as my 125 but I really don't want to start taking parts off a nice saw.
The starter from most other LH start large frame Macs (250, 300, etc) will work on a CP125 without modification. To use that starter on an SP125 or SP105, you must swap on the longer ratchet (starter shaft/cup thing that engages the pawls on the flywheel) as the SP saws have a reinforced flywheel cover that spaces the starter farther from the flywheel than on earlier large frame LH start Macs.
Replacement starter assemblies sold by Mac in the 1970's came with both ratchets so you could use the starter on all the saws. Seen a few on feebay recently. The longer SP ratchet was also available separately (and I've seen those listed too).
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In the last year I've dropped a fair amount of hundred footers around 3 feet in diameter .Now had they had been sliced into firewood I would have used the big displacement saws .As it was I salvaged the usable saw logs and firewooded the rest .Therefore I could not justify dragging out those heavy as lead saws for just a few cuts .I've got enough good runnng saws in the 70 to 80 cc range for that stuff without breaking my back and poor old worn out shoulders hoisting a 35 pound saw with a long bar .
I mean you have to keep your priorities straight now .If you get all worn out man handling a saw all day long how pray tell could you enjoy a brew under the big umbrella on tha patio after the work is done ? You'd have to drink the thing out of a straw .
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I mean you have to keep your priorities straight now .If you get all worn out man handling a saw all day long how pray tell could you enjoy a brew under the big umbrella on tha patio after the work is done ? You'd have to drink the thing out of a straw .
Works for me too. If I won't use the tank of gas it's not worth the fight with the big saws but it is fun to hear them run every now and then.
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You're getting confused or I didn't explain it enough ."Driver " meaning the amount of drive links on the chain not the drive system .
The 10 series saws use 5/16" bar studs ,the large Macs like the 125 use 3/8" studs so the 10 series bar in that respect wouldn't work unless the slot were milled out .Do to the fact the tail of a 10 series bar is not wide enough to both engauge the bar tightening apparatus plus not wide enough to engauge the oiling hole it just won't work .
This same question arose on another forum maybe 2 months ago .To find out for certain I layed a 10 series bar over a Mac 125 style and there's just no way it could work .
Sorry Al but that bar does work thats the way i setup my SP125 to run 3/8" chain i just widen the bar adj slot with a file
McBob
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You must have found a 10 series bar with a wide heel then Mc Robert . The ones I had would not cover the oil channel .I've probaley got 20 10 series bars from 16" to 32" and not a one of them was wide enough to work on a reed valve .
I've got a picture some place buried in one of the computers if I can find it .It shows a 10 series layed over top of a reed valve bar .
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Found the picture .The bottom bar is that 48" Mac hard nose that's on the Homey in my avatar .Next a 28" Mac branded ,24" 20".
Windser made a majority of the bars for McCulloch but I think others might have too .Some would fit a Husqvarna and some would not .Those had a little wider heel section ,not shown in this picture .All I have in that style are 16" bars .
If memory serves me the more narrow bars if a person moved the tighening hole it would end up in the bar rail slot .Not good . The wider ones might possibley work depending but it's kind of over kill to run a 16" bar on a 125.
Actually for my methods I've found that a Stihl mount size from 024 to 066 works out great using spacers on the bar studs .Like 12 mm OD to 3/8" ID .The bars are plentifull and the heels wide enough to adapt to a reed valve McCulloch .
Now I'm noy saying that some 10 series bars might not be adaptable but none I have in my pile of stash would .