Chainsaw Repair
Husqvarna - Stihl - Poulan - Jonsered - Dolmar chainsaws and more => Stihl => Topic started by: woodyweeder on July 28, 2012, 11:51:20 pm
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Hi all, been reading a while here but this is my first post. I have recently bought an 024 that has had a bit of a hard life. I got it running with a carb kit but it kept on loosing it's tuning, so since the piston is worn I decided to pull it to bits and replace whatever it needs. My first question is should the crank be stiff to turn over by hand? I thought the crank seals might need renewing but they look visually ok. There is no play in the bearings. My next question is should I just replace these anyway now I'm this far in, and is aftermarket ok?
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Welcome to the site.
Being as you have it torn down this far, I would go ahead and put seals in it.
Some after market seals are OK.
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I'm sure after market seals would work except for the fact most Sthl seals are OEM meaning special design and they own world wide rights to them .
For example the clutch side seal part number 9640-003-1600 is 15 x 29.6 x 4 .Now that 29.6 MM OD is the snag because it's an odd ball size .
Conversely it appears the flywheel side .
,part number 9640-003-1190 might be standard being 12 x 20 x 5.
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I took the liberty of surfing flea bay and much to my surprise they are selling seals for these saws very reasonabley priced .Unusual to say the least .
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I bought a set of these for the 036. I didnt need them so they are in the stihl stash box.
Replacement oil seal for Stihl models 020, 020T, 024, 026, 034, 036, 036 QS, MS200, MS200T, MS240, MS260, MS340, MS360, MS360C. Measures 12x20x5mm. Replaces OEM 9640 003 1190 and 9640 003 1191.
http://northwoodsaw.com/store/index.php?l=product_detail&p=890
Replacement oil seal for Stihl 024, 026, 028, 034, 036, 036 QS, 046, 084, MS240, MS260, MS340, MS341, MS360, MS360 C, MS361, MS361 C, MS460.l . Measures 15x29.6x4mm. Replaces OEM 9640 003 1600.
http://northwoodsaw.com/store/index.php?l=product_detail&p=894
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----Replacement oil seal for Stihl models 020, 020T, 024, 026, 034, 036, 036 QS, MS200, MS200T, MS240, MS260, MS340, MS360, MS360C. Measures 12x20x5mm. Replaces OEM 9640 003 1190 and 9640 003 1191.----
That is the correct number because I've got two OEM seals right in front of me as I type this for one of my 200Ts. Those were like 8 bucks a pop from a dealer .
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Both of you are correct, the 9640 003 1190 12 X 20 X 5 is used on both sides of the 200T
But the seals are different from one side to the other on the 024 and the other seal is the 9640 003 1600 for the clutch side of the 024
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I posted both seals the OP needs for his 024 in links above.
Welcome to the site woodyweeder
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For that matter so did I .However until this thread I had no idea the small seals used on the 200T also fit other models .Nor did I know the special seals used on the flywheel side were being produced in after market .Nice to know for future reference .Glad this topic came up .
Now if somebody would just throw together a quality after market piston and cylinder for the 020/200Ts it would be a red letter day . :)
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Al I think afm 200 p+c is out there now too.
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Now if somebody would just throw together a quality after market piston and cylinder for the 020/200Ts it would be a red letter day . :)
meteor piston 200 http://northwoodsaw.com/store/index.php?l=product_detail&p=1127
I seen cylinders somewhere. I'll get back with you on that. ;)
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Well that is nice to know because the 020/200Ts that didn't die from a fall from tree got killed off by a lean run that cooked the top end .
Flea bay is full of complete crankcases that obviously came from fried saws .
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Thanks for this great info!
I don't have the seal removal tool I have seen on youtube - can I go ahead and try to flick / prise them out (using something like plastic that wont do any damage to the case) or is the tool required?
The crank also is not so stiff to turn over now with a little lube - looks like part of it slightly brushes one of the bearings as it rotates.
Has anyone bought gear from Hutzl on ebay? I'm considering a piston from them (and a kit with the seals and new gasket) but I'm wondering how they can make the stuff so cheaply! I guess there is not too much to loose though seeing as it is so cheap.
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Hutzl is in Hong Kong
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Could anyone point me in the right direction to find a service manual for this please?
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Could anyone point me in the right direction to find a service manual for this please?
Link in PM. You can download to your puter, print it out or just read from link. 024 026 service manual
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Thanks very much :)
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I'm looking at aftermarket p & c's for this - does it make a difference if the cylinder is nikasil or chrome plated? Is a different oil ratio required for chrome?
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Probabley not .The term "Nikasil " is basically a trade name for a plating process patented by the Mahle company which uses an alloy of hard nickle with certain additions of an amount of carbide .Hard chrome if done correctly most likely would work just as well .
Some after market kits are well made and some are not .As for oil use whatever you want just tune it rich for a few tanks after reassembley and start up .After the initial ring seat lean it up a tad bit and run it like you stole it .It'll be okay .
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I just wanted to say a quick thanks for the advice people had provided for this project.
The saw is back together and running strongly. In the end, I put in a new piston, bearings, seals and fuel line in from Huztl. The quality of the parts seemed OK. The new piston did seem to be a little heavier built than the original, though I guess that has to be better than too light.
It definately was a learing experience having the saw broken down into every individual piece, and now I'm looking for another one to do it again.
I'm pretty happy with the end result, but I can't say it runs like a brand new one. It does a funny thing where it idles perfectly as long as I'm holding it, but if I put it on the ground, it idles fine for a few seconds, then the revs drop, it starts to vibrate, then the revs pick up again. It keeps cycling like that until I pick it up again. In the two tanks of fuel I put through it, it twice stalled without warning when idling with the bar pointed at the ground, but re-started easily when horizontal.
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A picture of the saw.
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It's entirely possible the fuel line is stiff or in some way tangled up popping out of the fuel when it's tilted but that's only a wildguess .Usually if they die at an idle it's either the throttle plate is completly closed or the idle is set too lean .
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Thanks, I checked the position of the fuel filter (it has a new line) and there was plenty of fuel in it at the time too.
I haven't replaiced the impulse line (but it's not damaged in any way I can detect), I will do this when I put my next parts order in as I also need new fuel/oil caps (or o rings at least) and AV rubbers.
Like I said, it idles fine while I hold it but a couple of seconds after I set it down the revs start to drop. It then gets the wobbles up (starts to shake as it nearly stalls) and then picks back up again. I get the feeling that the way the saw vibrates when it is on the ground has something to do with it.
As it idles fine while I hold it, I guess the throttle plate position is not the issue. I'll have a tweak of the low speed screw as suggested.
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Impulse carbs can be fickle as a teenage prom queen .In spite of maybe rebuilding them for years and you might think you know everything about them they can have a personality all of their own .
I've got some like act up at idle but they run great at speed so I don't loose any sleep over them .If the SOB wants to die let it because mine will fire up on the first pull on a restart 95 percent of the time .To be quite truthfull about it in my case they very seldom idle .Either off or running at speed .
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WAG :P
Sounds like the fuel is puddling in the intake at idle. Moving around puts the puddled fuel to the cyl. Maybe you have the fulcrum height adjusted wrong in the carb or needle seat is letting fuel by if not seated.