Chainsaw Repair
Husqvarna - Stihl - Poulan - Jonsered - Dolmar chainsaws and more => Husqvarna => Topic started by: Cut4fun . on January 16, 2013, 02:53:59 pm
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Never used the husky 338 before and wonder how they would compare to the stihl 200T I once had and my current solo 637 T with 40cc motor. 637 not as strong as 200 in cut but I really like the av on the solo.
What is the issues to look for when taking one in used?
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Power wise they are identical. Some guys argue that the 338 is faster while the 200T is more reliable. This for me is hard to believe with all the carb issues the 200 has had but I have no first hand experience running one in the field to judge. The original 334 had some bugs but most if not all of them were weeded out by the 338.
Things to look for: intake boot, air filter seal, cover over muffler. The also have an auto decomp system but it has been very reliable in comparison to the 357xp (mine is removed though). In my opinion, a very solid saw although the cost has driven us to replace them with 435T's
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that's my take too.mitch
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I donated my MS200 to a woman arborist in Tasmania, I felt sorry for her the high prices she had to pay down there. But I kept my 338XPT though, very nice well balanced climbing saw. Just waiting for the new T540XP to replace it.
Side by side my 9/16" muffler modded 338 will beat my MS200 by a good 1/2 to 1 second in one cut through a 10"x10" spruce. I pulled the screen/restrictor plate on the 200. Timed them over and over again.
On the 338 I run .325 Oregon 95VPX narrow kerf chain on a narrow kerf 14" bar. Excellent performance with good chip flow/chip clearance and the semi chisel holds a longer edge
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In 2000 or 2001 I bought I belive it was the 335xpt california model paid 450$. In 2011 I worked for a company that had a 338 xpt for there main climb saw. It didn't seem to have the power that mine had when good but it was reliable. I remember mine stated 45cc on the sticker and the 338 is 36 or 38cc. Could that be right were the early versions of these saws larger cc?
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Yes the California models were 45cc. EPA regulations in California are so tough that Husqvarna had to boost the displacement to 45cc to help offset the supressed muffler.
The 338XPT -XP is 39cc. Mine came with a muffler outlet so small that a pencil eraser could barely fit in it. I added a 9/16" outlet pipe at the bottom and kept the top one. Throttle response and power greatly increased. Harder on fuel though.
For someone just pruning or line clearing cutting small wood I'd keep the muffler stock and enjoy the better fuel economy. But with mine I cut some good sized wood with it and need the extra zip..
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I opened up my muffler a lot the saw ripped! maybe I just wore the top end out I never did compression test it.
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I see how you did your ex. out the bottom. that was one thing i never liked of these saws was the ex. exiting high some times say when cutting a limb at the trunk of a tree the ex. gasses will blow back on your hand ouch!
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Hmmm 45cc top end huh. Are these available?
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Hmmm 45cc top end huh. Are these available?
Mitch on the husky site a guy mentions a California edition on the 338 too 45cc.
http://www.husqvarna.com/us/landscape-and-groundcare/products/chainsaws/338-xp-t/
Best trim saw out there...period!
October 9, 2012
Power
5 / 5
Durability
4 / 5
Ergonomics
5 / 5
Performance
5 / 5
Value
4 / 5
First off, let me preface my review by stating that I've been a power line clearance arborist (climber) for almost three years.
That being said, this saw is the best saw I've ever used for normal trimming work. The hole in the handle is perfect for a hook to be slotted through and hook onto your belt. It's got a ton of power in a small package and can be used one-handed if you need to. (Safety lesson here: never cut above your head. If you're cutting above your head with one hand and something happens, the saw is falling on you.)
You can put up to a 16" bar on this thing but I normally run a 14" and it'll cut anything that I can throw at it. At full rev, this thing balances at the trigger which reduces fatigue for those of us that work long hours with saws.
The inertia chain break has saved me multiple headaches. I can tell you from experience that it DOES work.
The automatic decompression makes the saw a cinch to start (even my wife can start this saw).
The only quality concerns that I have regard the muffler cover and spark plug cover. They're very easy to break. The top screw for the muffler cover also, quite frequently, breaks out the case part that it screws into, so you can't put a new cover on. That's my only real complaint.
I wish that I could get the California edition outside of California as well. It's 45CC instead of 39CC.
I've also bough the Jonsered clone for this saw and love it just as much as its Husky cousins. So for those of you trying to save a little money, but get the same saw, try looking for the 2139T.
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338 California Edition 45cc 338XPC instead of 338xpt
Is the above right? Maybe not info is all over the place on this. baileys says The 338XP California Special
The reason the "California" model was to side step emission restrictions imposed on saws under 40cc's.
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338XPT California IPL
http://m.husqvarna.com/ddoc/HUSI/HUSI2006_AAaa/HUSI2006_AAaa__5449742-01.pdf
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http://s30387.gridserver.com/partsDiagrams/Husqvarna%20335.pdf
did a quick google search looks like 1997 to 2001 for production of the 335 xpt california. I wasn't wrong mine was 335 not 334 or 338. The saw was kick ass for a few years. I did have things brake. engine mount spring, intake boot (probably cause I ran with broken engine mount spring to long) of course I eventualy lost the spark plug cover (there was no screw on early model just snap in) chain brake wore and would set to easy I removed it. Oh and the chain adjustment was in the bar. I didn't mind that but the side screw is better. I loved the saw for a few years but I had never owned a 020 or 200. Once I got a 200T the 335 was worn out and no match for even a worn out 200T that I had gottin. The 200T is by far in every way a much better saw then a 338 xpt will ever be. But I can see where guys like them they look pretty cool to.
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I'm still on the fence on the 2 offered to me.
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For the right price take the two of them and then you can draw your on opinion. I would like to see how you like the 338. Hey I almost want to buy one and give one a shot agian just to see if the 200 really is that much better as I think it is. You have to have one of each at your ready and see witch you choose more often. I know sometimes I choose my 192 over the 200 it's just so light. But actualy I think I might like the 192 better then a 338. Well one day I might have to buy another 338. Buy them! you can always sell them!
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I dont have any 200's anymore. Just a 40cc solo 637.
Butttttt Al Smith has a stock 200T and ported 200T and lives about a hour or so down the road. So could do some side by side testing.
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I thought, self only one way to know firsthand. I now own 2 husky 338.
Saving parts list.
Muffler COVER 503811402
AIR PURGE BUBBLE 503936601
SPARK PLUG COVER 537390501
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I'm waiting for the new Husky T540XP which is "supposed" to be available here next month ???, looks pretty awesome from what I see and hear.
I like the top handle grip and balance of the 338 over the 200, muffler mod it and it screams and outcuts my old MS200. The only drawback was the 338 doesn't have felling sight lines for topping trees and no winter cold weather switch over for keeping the carb warm from icing up.
The 335-338 is a almost 20 yr old design, so time for a change. The T540XP will do that.
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I agree on what I have heard and read on the T540 autotune for sure. I'm no pro like you Willard and I'm not ready for autotunes here myself. Will be waiting your feedback on the 540.
I'm a work on them myself type and IMO I think I know more then my local dealer personally.
On the auto tune stuff I am depending on mweba, William and Spike for info. I dont even think my dealer has the diagnostic tool yet.
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As bought. I am thinking one is 2011 other showing more use 2010. Looks like missing plug cover and 1 muffler cover. 1 bolt
Tell me more about muffler mods on these.
Also the older one isnt holding a idle. I havent had a chance to did in yet though.
(http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g289/doemaster789/201T/xpt338002.jpg)
(http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g289/doemaster789/201T/xpt338003.jpg)
(http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g289/doemaster789/201T/xpt338004.jpg)
(http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g289/doemaster789/201T/xpt338005.jpg)
(http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g289/doemaster789/201T/xpt338006.jpg)
(http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g289/doemaster789/201T/xpt338003.jpg)
(http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g289/doemaster789/201T/xpt338007.jpg)
(http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g289/doemaster789/201T/xpt338008.jpg)
(http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g289/doemaster789/201T/xpt338009.jpg)
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Wow RB says there is BIG gains to be had on this saws. RB did a Jonsered 2139 = 338
Is this the mod done on your 338 Willard?
I run mine with a 9/16th ID tube. The best place to add it is about an inch below the existing tiny port, and angled downward at 30 degrees or so. A hole will need to be formed in the plastic cover. Make the tube the proper length so that it ends just short of the plane of the cover, to eliminate being burned. Retune carb, and be prepared to cut 25-40% faster than stock.
(http://chainsawrepair.createaforum.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=1496.0;attach=2195;image)
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Digging up info.
Whats the deal with the updated sparkplug covers? Both are missing on the 2 I got so this is a updated fix I guess. Anybody know anything to share?
One new genuine Husqvarna rear end fix kit # 537409801.
If your saw was originally equipped with the old style spark plug cover, you will have to drill a hole in your case to install this new kit. Instructions are included with the kit.
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Everything I have read on the calif edition 338 45cc is they run and sound like a de-tuned 338 stock. Now ported and carb retune I bet those extra cc comes alive.
Genuine Husqvarna Piston & Cylinder Kit Assembly (43mm) California Version. List 537074903 CYLINDER COMPLETE $214
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Wow RB says there is BIG gains to be had on this saws. RB did a Jonsered 2139 = 338
Is this the mod done on your 338 Willard?
I run mine with a 9/16th ID tube. The best place to add it is about an inch below the existing tiny port, and angled downward at 30 degrees or so. A hole will need to be formed in the plastic cover. Make the tube the proper length so that it ends just short of the plane of the cover, to eliminate being burned. Retune carb, and be prepared to cut 25-40% faster than stock.
(http://chainsawrepair.createaforum.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=1496.0;attach=2195;image)
Yes same idea as Rogers 9/16" outlet. I'm gonna change it though, been burning holes in my work pant legs. I will enlarge the original outlet to 9/16"- 5/8" and silver solder a larger deflector on. Really brings these saws alive with this mod.
My 2009 5100131 338XPT has the same "new edition" sticker like yours.
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Right on cut4fun! Now you can play
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I see potential with the 45cc California p/c. Remember the MS200 is only 35cc.
I have no clue if or what porting changes were done to the 45cc cylinder, clamshell base offers poor milling surface so removing gasket probably only option. Bigger carb ,raise intake skirt by a mm, maybe a pair of finger ports. I believe these California saws have a cat muffler [get rid of it ]
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Here is why I want to re route my outlet. Didn't quite burn thru the inner lining :o
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Well I learned something today cleaning these up and checking oilers etc. The really clean one (not used as much) I thought was a 2011 and newer is the older 05 one. The one with more time on it and says new edition on sticker is a 2010.
You will get a good laugh on how I figured out something was amiss. :-\ :-[
I cant adjust the carb at all on the 2010, has some kind of metal stops it appears to keep me from getting to the carb H and L screws to adjust. I'm thinking drill them out or try the drywall screw method. How has others pulled the metal looking carb stops.
05 one had plastic carb stops I will trim sometime.
Coils the 05 turns 13.8k to 13.9k . The 10 I cant adjust and turns 12.8k and I was wondering do any of these come with a rev-limited coils?
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On the 2010 they have metal caps covering the H and L. There is no adjustment the way it is now.
I'm guessing drill them? How are you guys doing it.
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I've never seen an actual 338 but I do have three 335's the trimmers tried out during the big ice storm a few years back .Now they do not have the power of a 200T although they certainly have enough power .All three were taken out of service after about 1 year because of oiler failures .It was only about a 10-12 dollar fix but a 100 dollar labor bill because you have to field strip the damned things to get to the pump shafts .I'm thinking those things were 250-300 when an 020T or maybe a 200T were a shade over 500 bucks .
In all honesty though I like the balance of the 335 as compaired to the 200T .I don't like the muffler that burns the dickens out of you because they break the muffler guards off or the plug that shocks the dickens out of you from getting banged on stuff and punching a hole in the boot .
I have good intentions of souping one of those little saws up but so far haven't done so .Too many other irons in the fire it seems .Besides that this time of the year cold and all I really kind of loose my enthusiasm .
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On the 2010 they have metal caps covering the H and L. There is no adjustment the way it is now.
I'm guessing drill them? How are you guys doing it.
My 2009 338 has no covers ,just plain metal screws with slots. I can set mine fine. Didn't even check under the shroud to see if they have restrictors or not.
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;D
(http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o8/WILLIAMFGREENE/INTERNETPOSTPICNO126LargeWebview.jpg) (http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o8/WILLIAMFGREENE/INTERNETPOSTPICNO126LargeWebview.jpg)
;)
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Thanks William. I wasnt crazy in what I was seeing after all. (http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n133/ChrissyP24/113.gif)
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So it looks like you need a special screwdriver for these caps, I just use a regular flat driver on my 2009 screws ???.
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So it looks like you need a special screwdriver for these caps, I just use a regular flat driver on my 2009 screws ???.
Maybe it is a EPA USA thing.
All I know is a screw driver wont move anything on mine with them caps there.
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I was trying to determine from the pictures that if you drill through and remove the caps will the needles stay in place without having to buy new caps and put in there?
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I was trying to determine from the pictures that if you drill through and remove the caps will the needles stay in place without having to buy new caps and put in there?
I was wondering that myself after seeing how they were in the SB.
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Maybe put some springs behind the needles?
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I nip the stops off with the bench grinder and reinstall. That tool is under $10 and worth every penny.
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Try as they might so far the powers that be have not been totally successfull in making the things tamp proof in an attempt to save us from ourselves .Given enough time they might though and then other methods will no doubt thwart the efforts .What great sport this has become,thank you Ralph Nader
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My 2009 5100131 338XPT has the same "new edition" sticker like yours.
Comparing the 05 to the NE 2010 the only real difference I can see is the side tensioner in cover on the 10. Was there other changes made I dont see till inside one?
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Talking with a owner of a 338 he has torn down. He is needing info on the fuel line routing. Anybody got any info? Pics etc?
Also what is the normal psi on these saws?
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husqvarna 334 336 338 339 service manual http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=4&ved=0CEIQFjAD&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.mymowerparts.com%2Fpdf%2FHusqvarna-Service-Repair-Manuals%2FW0301005.pdf&ei=ySUDUeCLAdT2qwGLyoGYDg&usg=AFQjCNGTg-xWDSiPW-Rzuj9ZvKsnyNwQYQ&bvm=bv.41524429,d.aWM&cad=rja
Never mind guys on the fuel line routing. He said the manual showed what he needed.
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I took a bigger diameter decking or drywall screw and you have to cut the pointy tip off. ;) Then screw into the zinc metal cap to remove pulling straight out with pliers.
Once the L side zinc cap was removed I could adjust the H side without having to remove that one. 8)
(http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g289/doemaster789/201T/psi800338ship003.jpg)
(http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g289/doemaster789/201T/psi800338ship006.jpg)
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Well the 338 I ended up getting to keep is finished and ready to test with stock to stock no muffler mods on either. Only thing done on the 338 is screen pulled and deflector opened up some.
(http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g289/doemaster789/Mac805PP260/3450BB3750bb338637mac001.jpg)
(http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g289/doemaster789/Mac805PP260/3450BB3750bb338637mac006.jpg)
(http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g289/doemaster789/Mac805PP260/3450BB3750bb338637mac018.jpg)
(http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g289/doemaster789/Mac805PP260/3450BB3750bb338637mac020.jpg)
(http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g289/doemaster789/Mac805PP260/3450BB3750bb338637mac021.jpg)
(http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g289/doemaster789/Mac805PP260/3450BB3750bb338637mac004.jpg)
(http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g289/doemaster789/Mac805PP260/3450BB3750bb338637mac010.jpg)
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Just read this on the 2013 338 updates. Was this part of the New Edition updates on the 2010 too?
338 XPT represents a new upgraded edition with increased compression ratio for more rapid acceleration and increased torque.
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The 338 last use in Aug-Sept didnt check out on my testing before shipping when checked out the other day. So I pulled the plug on sale till fixed.
To the guy waiting on this. I tested 338 today and it was acting like it is going to need a carb kit. Been setting since Aug or early Sept. It is a 2011 and never had a carb kit put in. So right now I wont sale it the way it is with idle and taking throttle.
Going to lock FS thread till I get it fixed and then will update.
Yep carb diaphragms fill stiff and going to go ahead and replace primer bulb while I have it apart there.
Went ahead and pulled coil and cleaned all the gunk out of there and reset gap too.
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Carb was 3 years old 2011 338xpt. Man what a difference a new carb kit makes. ;D ;D 8) Went ahead and put a new purge bulb on it while I had it down to there.
Dang wondering if I really do want to sell it now to get a T540xp. It will do everything I need plus some. :P
Pics with the used 14" forester bar and oregon chain.
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The 338XPT is a good little saw. Going on 5 yrs with mine and still running strong with no repairs yet.
The only thing I don't like about it versus my old MS200 is the 338 doesn't have a cold weather pre-heater window for the carb. I've run the 200 right into early winters and early springs with their freezing temps. That's one thing Husky didn't do their homework on. Seeing the the new 540 is closer in design to the 200 hopefully it has the winter/summer window.
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First 338 I had to pull the motor out on. 2010 model that the intake boot pulled apart.
Looking how the AV and intake boot set up is, it is pretty easy to see why this is a problem on these saws. JMO. In my we little mind anyways.
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Yeow, Kevin what a PITA to work on, almost as bad as a 192T.
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3 bolts hold motor in at AV locations. Carb and bolts removal too. Then have to remove flywheel and coil to slide through and out. Not bad been in way worse. But still all of this for a boot. :o :'(
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Got the boot etc in today. 8)
What a freaking PITA to get back in the carb area once boot is installed on cylinder :o. Needed some elf fingers handy. :P
Adjusted the fulcrum back to where it belongs and tested today with a loop of new stihl 45dl chain. ;)
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Also got to test the checkspark tool out. Couldnt get 338 to fire at first. Clipped check spark on showed red. Went old way with wire with light between plug and wire, notta. Hmmmmmmmmm
Got to looking and the ground wire turned while tightening coil bolt and was up against the other wire on coil. Reset wires and coil gap and checked again. Green. Sweeeet.
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So, your first experience with check spark was good?
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So, your first experience with check spark was good?
Yep I even used my old way to make sure I didnt have spark. Checkspark was much easier, I just didnt trust it yet being it was 1st time using.
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No one could blame you for that!
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Talk about timing. Owner was calling as I was replying to your post earlier. Saw already picked up.
I only charged the owner $20 labor to remove and install the boot, set carb and test tune. Mainly because I was gaining experience of doing this work on the 338xpt.
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I do the same thing when I am working on a saw that I don't have experience on. The ones you have never worked on are the most fun anyway!
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If the 338 is much liked the 335 it is indeed a giant pain the buttocks to wrench on .You nearly have to field strip the little rascal to do anything to it .
Fact I've got three of the later in the shed .Two with bad oilers and one that cooked itself .Kind of low on the priority list at the moment .
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So, your first experience with check spark was good?
Yep I even used my old way to make sure I didnt have spark. Checkspark was much easier, I just didnt trust it yet being it was 1st time using.
Just always make sure you clip it on the wire and not on the boot. It will not work if even partially clipped on the boot.
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So, your first experience with check spark was good?
Yep I even used my old way to make sure I didnt have spark. Checkspark was much easier, I just didnt trust it yet being it was 1st time using.
Just always make sure you clip it on the wire and not on the boot. It will not work if even partially clipped on the boot.
I did try it down on the lower end slim part of boot where plug wire enters boot. Worked there.
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Received some feedback from the work I did on the above 338. Owner of the tree company sent me this in PM here and hope you dont mind me sharing the info.
(( wanted to let u know.......saw is hanging in real nice now.....cold starts in 2 to 3 pulls.......more often in 2......u did a great job.......thx ))
Just glad to see the carb fulcrum adjustment, carb tune and replaced intake boot did the trick.
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Nice going.
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Good job Kevin.
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Husqvarna 338xpt I been working on troubleshooting on my spare time. Rebuilt carb, thinking carb issue and was thinking of ordering a new one. Since no change after rebuild. Checked intake boot it wasnt tore like I thought it would be. So I started thinking seals. So getting ready to pull motor, removed flywheel to get started. What a find. = big smile. Now if the piston isnt scored up I will be very happy.
impulse line 503842601
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So the impulse sits under the flywheel. Alright way to go.
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Thanks for posting Kevin. I've never gone that far into my 338XPT NE. Interesting built saw. Looks like a mad scientist designed that saw making everything fit into that compact chassis.
Mine hasn't been running all that good lately. Now I know what to look out for.
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Yep Roger. The impulse line had rubbed a hole against the flywheel and came off at one time. You can see the rubber on the back of flywheel too. Saw is dated 2012
Willard here is some older pics of the other 2 I had. Got to pull flywheel to take motor out the other side. Then can replace a boot too.
(https://chainsawrepair.createaforum.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=1496.0;attach=17027;image)
(https://chainsawrepair.createaforum.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=1496.0;attach=17028;image)
(https://chainsawrepair.createaforum.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=1496.0;attach=18964;image)
(https://chainsawrepair.createaforum.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=1496.0;attach=18966;image)
(https://chainsawrepair.createaforum.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=1496.0;attach=18967;image)
(https://chainsawrepair.createaforum.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=1496.0;attach=18965;image)
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That thing is sure dirty. The boot pulled right in half also. Should do real well when our done.
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That thing is sure dirty. The boot pulled right in half also. Should do real well when our done.
Those last pics was a different saw. I did for a local tree service few years ago.
Just posted those pics so Willard could see more with motor somewhat out.
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Thanks Kevin, just started on mine for a look to see what's going on.
My 338 and 536 will be the last top handles I'll ever buy. Reason I sold off all my MS200T and 020T 's.
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2016 NE 338 running like a new one.
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Thanks Kevin, just started on mine for a look to see what's going on.
My 338 and 536 will be the last top handles I'll ever buy. Reason I sold off all my MS200T and 020T 's.
Found out tonight ( took 2 months to get around to it) why the 338 is not running so good. Stripped out plastic threads the carb mount bolt screws into. Other bolt on flywheel side is torqued good but carb is not mating flush to the intake boot.
I'm thinking put a backup nut on the bolt but the bolt has those coarse threads for plastic threads. Will need a regular bolt....but I got to get back behind there. Nut backup can be done easy enough on flywheel side but thats not the side stripped.
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I put the 338XPT (in semi tear down)away for a next winter project. It appears my T536 LiXP battery saw has replaced it. Getting spoiled with that little torqy saw. Just squeeze the trigger and go.
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I put the 338XPT (in semi tear down)away for a next winter project. It appears my T536 LiXP battery saw has replaced it. Getting spoiled with that little torqy saw. Just squeeze the trigger and go.
I'm back! Hahaha.
3 years later I got around to getting my old 2009 338XPT running.
Last night I tore the saw right down, wasn't so bad. Still took a mad scientist to design that saw though. Great design how everything fits together like a tidy jigsaw puzzle.
I fixed the stripped plastic carb mount hole with a 5mm Heli coil insert. Then put a regular 2" long cap screw in.
I rebuilt the carb, pulled out the aluminum H L screws limiter plug. (Yes earlier I thought it never had a limiter because I was still able to get a small screwdriver in the tiny slots).
Put it all back together, set the screws at 1 turn and it runs perfect, just rips with the previous muffler mod. Got a young arborist who is going to buy it today. I hate to see it go but hopefully in the near future he'll buy my business out and I can go on with life while I'm ahead now that I'm 63 still with all my fingers ;D
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Here's some keepsake pics to remind me how beautiful this little saw is.
Probably never would have bought the T536 Li XP battery saw if I would have took the time to repair the 338 in the first place.
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Just to add my input for what it's worth. My 338xpt is a fantastic little saw I love using it, last time was a big beech tree blown down, I cut most of the limbs with the 338 and 020t just to compare them, to me the husqvarna won hands down. The trunk was cut with a couple of 266's I like to give them a run when I can, but the 338 was singing and light in the hand which these days believe me it saves a sleepless night with aches. They say you cant use a top handle saw on the ground, fair enough but all tools need respect and safe in the right hands.
I never used a battery saw but can see the benefits but they are going to be throw away tools and battery types will change as have all power tools made, out comes a new model and your old battery dont fit so what do you do ???
My 338 will last me out as will all my saws ;)