Chainsaw Repair

Husqvarna - Stihl - Poulan - Jonsered - Dolmar chainsaws and more => Homelite => Topic started by: Cut4fun . on January 19, 2013, 08:45:39 pm


Title: Homelite XL2
Post by: Cut4fun . on January 19, 2013, 08:45:39 pm
I was given a this homelite XL2 . Member here said it has a fuel issues and not running right now.   

Found paperwork showing bought in March 1980. Also a bill for rebuilding carb, duck bill valve etc in 1991.


(http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g289/doemaster789/262alky/homelite001.jpg)
(http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g289/doemaster789/262alky/homelite002.jpg)
(http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g289/doemaster789/262alky/homelite005.jpg)
(http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g289/doemaster789/262alky/homelite003.jpg)
(http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g289/doemaster789/262alky/homelite004.jpg)
(http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g289/doemaster789/262alky/homelite006.jpg)
Title: Re: Homelite XL2
Post by: Cut4fun . on January 19, 2013, 08:46:32 pm


Watch out Kev.  It has a reed valve.:D

Replace the fuel line as well as the oil line(s).  The gas tank has a vent line that sticks a short way into the tank through a hole near the filler neck.  There should be a Homelite 69451 duckbill valve (now produced/sold by Stens and Oregon) on the end of that line inside the tank.

Some of them have a diaphragm oil pump in addition to a pressurized oil tank.  Others just have the pressurized oil tank.  The impulse line from the crankcase extends a short way into the oil tank.  It's supposed to have a porous bronze 'connector' stuck in the end of it, with another Homelite 69451 duckbill valve on the end of that.  By adjusting how much of that connector is exposed (meaning not covered by the duckbill or the line), you can control the amount of pressure that bleeds back out of the oil tank.  This controls the oil flow.  The Homelite SM sez to have between 1/16" and 1/8" of connector exposed.  If you want a LOT of oil flow, you can just use a solid walled tube instead of the connector.  That connector and what's left of the old duckbill may be sitting in the bottom of the oil tank...
Title: Re: Homelite XL2
Post by: davbell22602 on January 19, 2013, 09:07:42 pm
Thats a nice lookin saw.
Title: Re: Homelite XL2
Post by: Al Smith on January 19, 2013, 09:14:31 pm
I have it's cousin in my shed although it's not as spiffy as that one .They are also a gigantic pain in the buttocks to work on .About as bad as a  Mini Mac .It's just a tiny little reed under the carb like a little Poulan which is no big deal they never go bad .

The one I have has a points ignition which is why I got ,freebie .The damned ignition system is one piece ,points with a soldered on condenser  .I just soldered a condenser from a Mini Mac seeings I have an abudance of them when I can find where I hid them .They sell the whole swear but it fetches more than the saw is worth .I think those little midgets are only about 1.8 cubic inch ,not much .
Title: Re: Homelite XL2
Post by: 660magnum on January 19, 2013, 09:17:05 pm
It's a beauty
Title: Re: Homelite XL2
Post by: Eccentric on January 20, 2013, 08:41:00 pm
That's a slick looking little freebie Kev.  They're not as bad as a MM to work on in my opinion.  Not easy by any stretch though.  Only easy 'clamshell' cased saw (meaning the engine is within 2 shell halves............and NOT meaning a unit block 'clamshell' engine....as is a popular term on another site) that is actually easy to work on is the Poulan Micro.  These little Homelites have their quirks, but you only need two hands to work on them.........unlike the MM's that require three. 

A friend slipped an early mag-cased one of these Homelites in my truck the last time we went cutting.  It belongs to his buddy.  My friend asked me to look into the saw and fix it as a favor to him.  Dammit.  I put it off for a few months (kept 'forgetting' that it was on the shelf).  Damn thing is FILTHY dirty, which means the case halves and all available space around the engine within that shell will be PACKED with saw cake as they often are. 

Finally gave in to pressure from my friend and pulled the muffler cover.  It's SLIGHTLY scored (dammit I was hoping it was roached so I wouldn't have to deal with it).  Fires on a prime.  Just needs the usual fuel/oil lines, duckbills, and carb kits.  Told my friend it'd be $25 in parts.  Now I can wait while he asks his bud for the 'OK'.  Hoping he sez to forget it.  I have my own one of these to rehab the carb and lines on.  Another friend mailed it to me without provocation.  Since it's a gift, I'm obligated to keep/fix it.  My dear wife likes the little bugger (sez it's "cute" with the 10" bar).  I'm stuck here.  It's clean, but I still ain't looking forward to working on it..... ;D
Title: Re: Homelite XL2
Post by: Al Smith on January 20, 2013, 10:32:13 pm
I looked that little pea picker up on Mike Acres site and it says first year of production was 1976 .I used one of those things I'm almost certain before that time .

You might find it surprising but the little thing would actually out cut a Mac 35 but that model in spite of how a few  might brag it up was  boat anchor if there ever was one .When they were new for the time period and what was out there for little saws they really were not that bad .I think they sold new for about 90 bucks or so .

They are not an oak slayer by any means but if they are running correctly not a bad little light duty trimmer .The key phrase though is running correctly .
Title: Re: Homelite XL2
Post by: Cut4fun . on June 21, 2013, 12:23:50 pm
Looked over this one after getting the XL running and cutting.  The duck bill checks out, they fuel line looks ok and fuel filter is still attached in tank (didnt look at that any further).

Thinking it just needs carb kit. Since I can squirt mix in carb to start and keep running as I squirt mix in. Diaphragm is probably just stiff and wont draw fuel.

My dad is in town and dont want neither this xl2 or xl. So I am going to pass them on to others.
Title: Re: Homelite XL2
Post by: Cut4fun . on June 22, 2013, 03:03:32 pm
All of this for a carb kit replacement??  :o

Well yesterday I stated to Jim I would have to get really bored to tear into this saw to put in a carb kit.

Well today I was waiting on the mail for 1 more switch before I can tear into the monte. So I grabbed this saw and tore it down for a look see.  Yep carb.  Just like normal I didnt have any walbro HDC  carb kits.

So I started going through my carb kits for matche and. I couldnt believe the huge diaphragm in my WG 3120 carb kits was a match for one side.  I had nothing for the check valve side which is clearly bad if you look at pic.

Oh noticed this yesterday, no H side on these? Whats up with that on these older saws.

(http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g289/doemaster789/Partner550/xl2003_zps818203b7.jpg) (http://s59.photobucket.com/user/doemaster789/media/Partner550/xl2003_zps818203b7.jpg.html)
(http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g289/doemaster789/Partner550/xl2004_zps1ae8f794.jpg) (http://s59.photobucket.com/user/doemaster789/media/Partner550/xl2004_zps1ae8f794.jpg.html)
(http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g289/doemaster789/Partner550/xl2002_zps6ec695b1.jpg) (http://s59.photobucket.com/user/doemaster789/media/Partner550/xl2002_zps6ec695b1.jpg.html)


(http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g289/doemaster789/Partner550/xl2005_zps536eacea.jpg) (http://s59.photobucket.com/user/doemaster789/media/Partner550/xl2005_zps536eacea.jpg.html)
(http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g289/doemaster789/Partner550/xl2001_zpse4dbb460.jpg) (http://s59.photobucket.com/user/doemaster789/media/Partner550/xl2001_zpse4dbb460.jpg.html)
Title: Re: Homelite XL2
Post by: Eccentric on June 22, 2013, 03:16:48 pm
I have one plastic XL2 with a fixed H-side HDC.  Also have an early metal XL2 with an HDC that has both needles.  The evil crusty XL2 that I recently worked on as a favor for a friend also had the fully adjustable HDC.  I have a couple more XL2/Super2 saws that I haven't yet checked to see which carb is on them. 

Damn things are multiplying.  The evil saw spent too much time in the shop.  I think it bred with the plastic XL2 that I've had for a while.  Suddenly I had 4 of the things here, plus a 240 (and a parts saw) 'cousin' to them.  I haven't spent a dime getting any of them.  They keep coming in as 'freebies'.  It's against my nature to turn down free saws, as that can close 'free saw' doors that may someday yield something good.....
Title: Re: Homelite XL2
Post by: Eccentric on June 22, 2013, 03:22:47 pm
Oh and you'll get pretty good at R/R'ing that engine in a hurry..........since you have to do that when you make any repairs other than replacing the AF or spark plug on these damn things.  You might as well change ALL the lines and replace the fuel tank and oil tank duckbill valves (69451) while you have it out.........or you'll be pulling it apart again soon.  Like I said however..................you'll get to the point where it takes about 30 seconds to get the engine out and about a minute to put it back together...

I see your saw is like the evil XL2 and my early saw.  Has the snap ring clutch retainer (rather than the threaded crank and nut used on later saws in the series).  That little bastard is NOT fun to remove from the crank.  Crank seals are the same as what's used on the Poulan Micro series saws (2000 etc).  530019059 at your local Husky dealer (mine stocked 'em), or SKF 4913 at your bearing house.
Title: Re: Homelite XL2
Post by: Cut4fun . on June 22, 2013, 03:31:37 pm
nein nein nein  ;) :D :D  Aaron you dont understand.  I dont want to see the little saws anymore. I have this xl2 and a running  cutting xl   a poulan pro 236 builder that starts but needs work and a running cutting 1800 I want to trade off.

I just want to clear some shelf space and get out of these series of saws all together.
Title: Re: Homelite XL2
Post by: Eccentric on June 22, 2013, 03:46:30 pm
nein nein nein  ;) :D :D  Aaron you dont understand.  I dont want to see the little saws anymore. I have this xl2 and a running  cutting xl   a poulan pro 236 builder that starts but needs work and a running cutting 1800 I want to trade off.

I just want to clear some shelf space and get out of these series of saws all together.

LOL.  Good luck with that Kevin.  Like I said..............they have a tendency to multiply.  They're even more prolific than the mini-macs.  Whenever one of THOSE finds its way into my shop through a 'free saw' connection I immediately dump them off in my buddy's shed.  He's gotten wise, and now does the same thing to me with the XL2/super2 saws.  Ugh...

The only small 'shell cased' (not talking 'clamshell' engine........although many 'shell cased' saws are 'clamshells as well) saws that I don't mind multiplying here are the Poulan Micro series.  I could have a dozen of 'em and wouldn't mind.  They're great truck/loaner saws. 

On that note.................I am still interested in that PP236 of yours.  Shipping quickly makes any deal go beyond the scope of what any saw of this type is worth to me however.  We need to talk.  Tradeja a nice used 20" (72DL) Husky branded D009 (272/372/etc) mount 3/8-.058G Oregon Powermatch bar for it...
Title: Re: Homelite XL2
Post by: Cut4fun . on June 22, 2013, 11:34:22 pm
nein nein nein  ;) :D :D  Aaron you dont understand.  I dont want to see the little saws anymore. I have this xl2 and a running  cutting xl   a poulan pro 236 builder that starts but needs work and a running cutting 1800 I want to trade off.

I just want to clear some shelf space and get out of these series of saws all together.

LOL.  Good luck with that Kevin.  Like I said..............they have a tendency to multiply.  They're even more prolific than the mini-macs.  Whenever one of THOSE finds its way into my shop through a 'free saw' connection I immediately dump them off in my buddy's shed.  He's gotten wise, and now does the same thing to me with the XL2/super2 saws.  Ugh...

The only small 'shell cased' (not talking 'clamshell' engine........although many 'shell cased' saws are 'clamshells as well) saws that I don't mind multiplying here are the Poulan Micro series.  I could have a dozen of 'em and wouldn't mind.  They're great truck/loaner saws. 

On that note.................I am still interested in that PP236 of yours.  Shipping quickly makes any deal go beyond the scope of what any saw of this type is worth to me however.  We need to talk.  Tradeja a nice used 20" (72DL) Husky branded D009 (272/372/etc) mount 3/8-.058G Oregon Powermatch bar for it...

Oh I have a poulan S25DA I tore down for a look see and never put back together. Never pulled the cyl etc. Just took it down as far  as you would for fuel line replacement.
Title: Re: Homelite XL2
Post by: Eccentric on June 22, 2013, 11:43:14 pm
That S25DA is a good saw.  A class above all the 'shell cased' tophandles.  I run my S25-CVA's quite a bit.  Strong, rugged little 38cc saws.  Easy to work on too.
Title: Re: Homelite XL2
Post by: 660magnum on June 23, 2013, 01:25:36 am
I'm glad it was you wrestling with that XL2 rather than me.

I had to work on a Echo SRM-2400 carb and did some whacking around noon. Between 7 & 8PM I did some more. Beautiful running weed whackers.
I have a PB-2400 blower and a SRM-2100 whacker that is just as good as the 2400. I also have a new TC-2100 rotor tiller

Ordered some rubber parts for the pump, fuel line, and stop switch wiring for my 7900
Title: Re: Homelite XL2
Post by: pete on June 23, 2013, 04:49:07 am
Aaron whats the steps for getting the motor out first one I did has never gone back together, I notice all your throttle linkages are intact I thinks I removed way too many bits, I have both types of carbs on some of these  I have three more to work on and have been putting it off as a PITA but you make it sound easier than it was cheers anyone got a workshop manual for these I t would be a big help.  Had a bad day with poulan see new post
Title: Re: Homelite XL2
Post by: Al Smith on June 23, 2013, 05:06:46 am
Those things are every bit as bad to work on as a mini Mac. For that matter the Poulan s-25 in my opinion is a pain in the buttocks too.

Fact I've got two S-25's on the bench right now that have me baffled as to what's wrong with them .
Title: Re: Homelite XL2
Post by: Sawnami on June 23, 2013, 07:25:58 am
The little XL series don't seem that difficult to get apart to me. I'd rather take one of those apart than my Super 2100. The recoil cover, 4 case screws, and the bar nut and the engine drops out. My biggest challenge is remembering the throttle link going back together. I learned that you always dig out the air filter before trying to start one that's been sitting for a long time. The first time that it fires up, it'll suck a deteriorated filter through the carb and into the engine in a heart beat.  :-\
Title: Re: Homelite XL2
Post by: Cut4fun . on June 23, 2013, 10:30:01 am
XL2   only took like 5 mins to pull the motor as seen in pic.   4 bolts, 2 top 2 bottom.  Pulled flywheel and both tanks. Removed sparkplug and slide whole unit out.

Yeah Al I like the power and the cut of the S25. Not to my liking to work on either. Guess I have got spoiled.
Title: Re: Homelite XL2
Post by: Eccentric on June 23, 2013, 03:21:52 pm
Aaron whats the steps for getting the motor out first one I did has never gone back together, I notice all your throttle linkages are intact I thinks I removed way too many bits, I have both types of carbs on some of these  I have three more to work on and have been putting it off as a PITA but you make it sound easier than it was cheers anyone got a workshop manual for these I t would be a big help.  Had a bad day with poulan see new post

-Remove bar and chain. 

-Spark plug.  Tuck the plug wire inside the case.

-Four case screws.  Handlebar (two screws). 

-Flywheel cover/starter housing. 

-Unplug kill switch wire from the coil.  Move it out of the way. 

-Slide the engine out.  Make note of how the throttle link fits into the carburetor arm.

Reassembly is just the reverse.  Getting the throttle link into the trigger arm is a tad tricky the first time you do it.  After that, it isn't so bad.  Don't tighten the four case screws until you have them all threaded in. 

These saws are nowhere near as hard/frustrating to work on as a mini-mac.  Just a bit irritating that you have to take the engine out for EVERYTHING, as there's no separate clutch cover to remove...

XXV series Poulans are easy compared to these.  So are the Micro series saws.  I'd MUCH rather work on either of those than an XL2 or mini-mac.........or 020 and 015 series stihl (yuk).  The mini-macs and the 015 and 020 stihls are a terrible PITA to work on.

Al what symptoms are the S-25's showing?
Title: Re: Homelite XL2
Post by: Al Smith on June 23, 2013, 06:35:00 pm
What the S-25's ? They might start then act like they starve for gas .I changed carbs ,same same .

I finally found some fuel line that I think will work .Carbs have been rebuilt ,one I changed the clutch side seal .

I just haven't had the time to fiddle with them here of late .Also there an 020AV I have to rebuild the carb and I'm not looking forward to disecting that thing either .

To make matters worse my little hot rod super duper lighting fast 200T is not right either .I'm down to one good running stock 200T as of the moment for trim saws .Well there's the Echo I suppose if worse comes to worse plus the mini Macs .Ah just remembered I do have another s-25 hiding in the shed someplace .
Title: Re: Homelite XL2
Post by: brokenbudget on June 23, 2013, 10:26:49 pm
al, i have an s-25 in craftsman red here that wants to rev to the moon and die. pressure tests out more than fine. i know the engine is properly sealed. the carb is perfectly clean, i mean brand new clean.
idles perfect.
throttles up perfect.
will not top out and burble, just wants to sing higher and higher.-- at "stock" settings.
tried the low speed jet open to just above a half turn open, re-adjusted idle, now a nice top rpm, and she really cuts very well.
i tried the low from just opened, to about 3/4 of a full turn. this saw just seems to like that spot. and it sort of makes sense to me now becaues when i recieved it, the low was just about where i have it now.
i remember some of the older homelites having carbs that needed to be set like that.
Title: Re: Homelite XL2
Post by: Eccentric on June 24, 2013, 04:37:13 am
What the S-25's ? They might start then act like they starve for gas .I changed carbs ,same same .

I finally found some fuel line that I think will work .Carbs have been rebuilt ,one I changed the clutch side seal .

I just haven't had the time to fiddle with them here of late .Also there an 020AV I have to rebuild the carb and I'm not looking forward to disecting that thing either .

To make matters worse my little hot rod super duper lighting fast 200T is not right either .I'm down to one good running stock 200T as of the moment for trim saws .Well there's the Echo I suppose if worse comes to worse plus the mini Macs .Ah just remembered I do have another s-25 hiding in the shed someplace .

Those S25's use a long fuel line.  Many twists and turns that could be ****/kinked and causing problems.  I use 3/32x3/16" fuel line on these.  You'll need to remove the flywheel to route it correctly.  That's easy to do with these saws.  Just loosen the nut until it's flush with the end, pry or pull up the flywheel (I hold a fin at the root with pliers and lift the whole saw just off the bench), and smack the non-magnet side of the flywheel with a wood block or plastic hammer.  Line goes through a loop cast into the case behind the flywheel.  That loop keeps the line from  contacting the flywheel.

Could be crank seals too.  530019051.  My Husky dealer ordered them for me the last time I needed them.  May want to take a look at the reed if it pressure checks fine but still acts like they're starving.  Sometimes a bit of crud will get through the carb and hold the reed off its seat.  Seen that a couple times with these and the Micros.

Good luck with the 020T and 200T.  Those damn things are no fun to work on.  The 200T's are sure runners when they're right.  When they're not......

LMK if you guys need XXV series parts.  Aside from P/C's (and handlebar AV buffers for the S25-CVA versions), I've got spares of most everything.
Title: Re: Homelite XL2
Post by: Eccentric on June 24, 2013, 04:38:00 am
Duplicate post.  Mods please delete...
Title: Re: Homelite XL2
Post by: Eccentric on June 24, 2013, 04:55:53 am

Back on track.  This is the evil bastard that I worked on as a favor for a friend.  Wasn't even his saw.  Belonged to a friend of his at work.  Had it apart a number of times.  Cleaned about 2 pounds of crap out of it.  Carb rebuild.  All lines and duckbills.  Leaking oiler diaphragm.  Crank seals.  FW side crank bearing.  Cleaned and gapped points...

Think I put about $25-$30 in parts and about $200 worth of labor into that damn thing.  My friend has seriously hooked me up in the past, so I put the money and time into this little stinker without much complaint.... ::)

(http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u318/Eccentric_photo/Homelite%20Chainsaws/CAM00286_zps31428272.jpg)
(http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u318/Eccentric_photo/Homelite%20Chainsaws/CAM00147_zps9a8e0923.jpg)
(http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u318/Eccentric_photo/Homelite%20Chainsaws/CAM00151_zpsd20f5f66.jpg)
(http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u318/Eccentric_photo/Homelite%20Chainsaws/CAM00153_zps64c6c5e6.jpg)
Title: Re: Homelite XL2
Post by: Al Smith on June 24, 2013, 08:49:16 pm
I've never had one of those little gems field stripped that far .---nor do I care to ---
Title: Re: Homelite XL2
Post by: dutchsawdoctor on June 26, 2013, 04:00:20 pm
Good job :o
Title: Re: Homelite XL2
Post by: Eccentric on June 26, 2013, 04:09:33 pm
Thanks.  Once you get the engine out of the case and clean all the crud off that builds up around the engine................they're not hard to go further.  The case halves are sealed with a clear RTV type sealer that lets go pretty easily.  The remaining residue is hard to see and tedious to remove though. 

I made some shims to properly space the bearings out during assembly (per the Homelite shop manual).  Made mine out of some clear hard plastic from the packaging my compression tester came in.  Was about the right thickness.  You place the shims between the thrust washers and the crank shoulders, set everything in place in the cylinder half of the crankcase, carefully remove the shims without disturbing anything, and then install the other crankcase half.  I sealed it with Hondabond-4.  Same as Threebond 1194....
Title: Re: Homelite XL2
Post by: Al Smith on June 26, 2013, 04:55:00 pm
FWIW they used to use Indian head gasket shellac to seal the 10 series and Mini Macs .They didn't leak .It's been around for 100 years and is still pretty good stuff.
Title: Re: Homelite XL2
Post by: gmax on November 02, 2013, 05:28:04 am
These little saws are simple to work on.. try working on a top handle stihl 019T   :o, I was given a low comp super 2 about 3 years ago.
I finally decided to repair it a few months ago, just needed a new ring, a small chunk of the chrome cylinder lining was missing but it was below the exhaust port, I didn't worry about it.

(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y149/bolow/IMG_6693Custom_zpse7aa5332.jpg) (http://s4.photobucket.com/user/bolow/media/IMG_6693Custom_zpse7aa5332.jpg.html)
(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y149/bolow/IMG_6712Custom_zps55e02e41.jpg) (http://s4.photobucket.com/user/bolow/media/IMG_6712Custom_zps55e02e41.jpg.html)

It's a good little runner, previously I was using the stihl 019T for the small stuff but now I prefer the Homelite it's lighter and more nimble.
I was surprised to see such a large carb on the little Homelite    ;D
Title: Re: Homelite XL2
Post by: dutchsawdoctor on December 22, 2013, 06:23:32 am
Nice job don, your right about some harder jobs of some saws in this time