Chainsaw Repair

Husqvarna - Stihl - Poulan - Jonsered - Dolmar chainsaws and more => Husqvarna => Topic started by: 05_sprcrw on March 18, 2011, 02:56:44 pm

Title: husqvarna 394xp Rebuild
Post by: 05_sprcrw on March 18, 2011, 02:56:44 pm
I just rebuild a Husqvarna 394 xp.
Parts saw Let the project begin
(http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn128/05_sprcrw/IMG_0745.jpg)

(http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn128/05_sprcrw/IMG_0748.jpg)

(http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn128/05_sprcrw/IMG_0755.jpg)

(http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn128/05_sprcrw/IMG_0767-1.jpg)

(http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn128/05_sprcrw/IMG_0760.jpg)

(http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn128/05_sprcrw/IMG_0800.jpg)

Paint wrinkled in a few spots, I sanded it back down and redid those areas just didn't take pictures.
(http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn128/05_sprcrw/IMG_0801.jpg)

(http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn128/05_sprcrw/IMG_0802.jpg)

(http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn128/05_sprcrw/IMG_0806.jpg)

(http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn128/05_sprcrw/IMG_0809.jpg)

My homemade bearing press and seal installer 5/8" bolt, nut and 2 washers works like a charm, best part is it is not a $50 install tool.  Bearings slide in very easy as well if you bake the halves at 200 for a hour to heat it up. I probably didn't even need the bolt to drive it in but I wanted to make sure even pressure was applied to the whole bearing.  And for the record any 6203 C designated bearing will work (same as OEM) and a third of the price. I found mine http://www.vxb.com/page/bearings/PROD/Kit9835 (http://www.vxb.com/page/bearings/PROD/Kit9835) for about $3.25 a piece.
(http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn128/05_sprcrw/IMG_0810.jpg)

(http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn128/05_sprcrw/IMG_0812.jpg)

(http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn128/05_sprcrw/IMG_0819.jpg)

(http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn128/05_sprcrw/IMG_0820.jpg)

(http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn128/05_sprcrw/IMG_0821.jpg)

(http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn128/05_sprcrw/IMG_0823.jpg)


I also have a new starter cover, and the outter fell dog coming and have plans to replace the fuel tank as well as the carb floor plate with new OEM parts at some point for a full restoration.
(http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn128/05_sprcrw/IMG_0824.jpg)

(http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn128/05_sprcrw/IMG_0825-1.jpg)

Finished minus decals that are still in the mail
(http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn128/05_sprcrw/IMG_0831.jpg)


 The build went well but then I hit a snag, the carburetor high and low jet screws keep backing themselves out so my saw will not hold a tune and keeps flooding itself.  Any ideas on how to keep these screws from doing that?

Title: Re: 394xp Rebuild
Post by: Cut4fun on March 18, 2011, 03:07:38 pm
What orange paint did you use? 

I have found out using a spray can from TSC,  made by Valspar  works pretty good.  http://www.tractorsupply.com/tractor-paint/valspar-tractor-amp-implement-spray-paint-husqvarna-orange-12-oz--1038658



Title: Re: 394xp Rebuild
Post by: man of stihl on March 19, 2011, 06:06:37 pm
What orange paint did you use? 

I have found out using a spray can from TSC,  made by Valspar  works pretty good.  http://www.tractorsupply.com/tractor-paint/valspar-tractor-amp-implement-spray-paint-husqvarna-orange-12-oz--1038658
i have not had very good results from paint i have used.i haven't tried TSC paint but stihl paint is not very good IMO. I will set the painted part on my wood stove to bake but the paint still comes off when hit by gas. >:(
Title: Re: 394xp Rebuild
Post by: man of stihl on March 19, 2011, 06:07:55 pm
very nice job on the rebuild BTW.
Title: Re: 394xp Rebuild
Post by: Cut4fun . on March 19, 2011, 07:57:42 pm
What orange paint did you use? 

I have found out using a spray can from TSC,  made by Valspar  works pretty good.  http://www.tractorsupply.com/tractor-paint/valspar-tractor-amp-implement-spray-paint-husqvarna-orange-12-oz--1038658
i have not had very good results from paint i have used.i haven't tried TSC paint but stihl paint is not very good IMO. I will set the painted part on my wood stove to bake but the paint still comes off when hit by gas. >:(

For the stihl grey try this. I was told there is the light grey and darker grey so make sure what you buy.    http://www.tractorsupply.com/agriculture-farming-ranching/tractor-paint/valspar-tractor-amp-implement-spray-paint-ford-gray-12-oz--3449627

Heard this works for stihl orange on some of their saws. I dont remember which ones, but guessing older ones.  http://www.tractorsupply.com/tractor-paint/valspar-tractor-amp-implement-spray-paint-kubota-orange-12-oz--3400518
Title: Re: 394xp Rebuild
Post by: 05_sprcrw on March 21, 2011, 07:46:45 am
What orange paint did you use? 

I have found out using a spray can from TSC,  made by Valspar  works pretty good.  http://www.tractorsupply.com/tractor-paint/valspar-tractor-amp-implement-spray-paint-husqvarna-orange-12-oz--1038658

I used the Valspar paint, it is an enamel paint and baked it on. I have not had any issues with it not sticking to the metal nor when fuel is spilled on it. I highly recommend it.
Title: Re: 394xp Rebuild
Post by: 05_sprcrw on March 21, 2011, 07:48:22 am
What orange paint did you use? 

I have found out using a spray can from TSC,  made by Valspar  works pretty good.  http://www.tractorsupply.com/tractor-paint/valspar-tractor-amp-implement-spray-paint-husqvarna-orange-12-oz--1038658
i have not had very good results from paint i have used.i haven't tried TSC paint but stihl paint is not very good IMO. I will set the painted part on my wood stove to bake but the paint still comes off when hit by gas. >:(

If you can find some of the valspar tractor paints that match up with the stihl colors I would give them a go I have not had any paint come off yet from it coming in contact with the paint.
Title: Re: 394xp Rebuild
Post by: 05_sprcrw on March 21, 2011, 08:15:46 am
I do have one question for you guys.  I can't get my bar oil to quit leaking any ideas? It looks like it is leaking out of the vent tube, it then drips down on to the bar tensioner screw and leaks out there. Its not a bunch but it pukes out enough that it makes a mess in the back of the truck tool box where it rides.  Is this something I have to live with or can I slow it down or stop it from leaking out of it?

Title: Re: 394xp Rebuild
Post by: 05_sprcrw on May 16, 2011, 12:38:07 pm
Well I was by a pile of wood and only had a 1/4 tank of gas but figured I would do some cutting with it. Seems to be running good so I must have done something right. I am definitely a fan of this saw, I have a weak clutch spring and a new one is on the way.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=khGJZ1RjSB8
Title: Re: 394xp Rebuild
Post by: Cut4fun . on May 16, 2011, 01:57:34 pm
Very cool thread from start to finish.

 Now that is what this site is all about IMO. Sharing info and repairing a chainsaw amongst friends and learning something from each other along the way.

Thanks,
Kevin
Title: Re: 394xp Rebuild
Post by: 05_sprcrw on May 16, 2011, 05:45:27 pm
Thanks Kevin, I know I had fun and I am already looking for my next saw to build, or find a junk burnt cylinder cheap that I can practice porting on.
Title: Re: 394xp Rebuild
Post by: 05_sprcrw on May 27, 2011, 07:49:50 am
Well last night I finally worked up the nerve to try and port my 394xp last night. I think it turned out ok for a first time porting job.  A million thanks to everyone that helped me along the way. I still need a round stone so I can bevel the ports to make sure a ring doesn't catch. I have a muffler and new meteor piston on order, right now I have a forrester muffler that has a very restrictive opening so I wanted to start with a stock muffler that had the square muffler on it to give it more room to breath. I am thinking I will end up modding the muffler as well.

Before:
(http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn128/05_sprcrw/IMG_0969.jpg)
(http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn128/05_sprcrw/IMG_0970.jpg)
(http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn128/05_sprcrw/IMG_0971.jpg)
(http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn128/05_sprcrw/IMG_0972.jpg)

During:
(http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn128/05_sprcrw/IMG_0976.jpg)
(http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn128/05_sprcrw/IMG_0977.jpg)

After but still waiting for a round stone to bevel the ports. I did soak it in muriatic acid to clean up the cylinder.
(http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn128/05_sprcrw/IMG_0978.jpg)
I still have to clean the alum transfer up on the bottom bellow the exhaust port yet a little more. I don't know why it looks so terrible in this picture it definitely is not that bad in person.
(http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn128/05_sprcrw/IMG_0979.jpg)
(http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn128/05_sprcrw/IMG_0983.jpg)
(http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn128/05_sprcrw/IMG_0984.jpg)

Title: Re: 394xp Rebuild
Post by: Cut4fun . on May 27, 2011, 12:51:21 pm
Just so you know. If you go to tighten up the squish, there is redneck ways to get the cylinder base down on your own.  ;)

The last time I paid a machinist to turn a cylinder and cut a pop up cost me $40.
Title: Re: 394xp Rebuild
Post by: 05_sprcrw on May 27, 2011, 01:02:44 pm
Just so you know. If you go to tighten up the squish, there is redneck ways to get the cylinder base down on your own.  ;)

The last time I paid a machinist to turn a cylinder and cut a pop up cost me $40.

Any suggestions on those redneck ways? I would really like to tighten it up if possible. I wish I had a machinist around here willing to do it that cheap.
Title: Re: 394xp Rebuild
Post by: Cut4fun . on May 29, 2011, 11:58:21 am
I was hoping someone else would chime in with their redneck ways too. I sent this to him in a pm right after he ask.

You have to get a thick level square board or square Plexiglas or something similar and sturdy.  Make a round hole where the jug will slip in. Use different grit from rough to get it down  to fine to smooth out  (cant remember the name of the black cloth sand paper stuff. Emory cloth I think. Twist in circle motion till you get it down to what you want. Keep equal pressure and check for square on all 4 corners. Measure all 4 corners before starting and make sure to keep square and same amount off all around.
Works like a charm. 
Title: Re: 394xp Rebuild
Post by: 05_sprcrw on May 31, 2011, 12:09:32 pm
Thanks I ended up finding a buddy of a buddy that would be willing to do it for me. I am sending it out today to him. I opened the intake port a tad more on one side to make it more evening.  Here is the picture.
(http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn128/05_sprcrw/IMG_1076.jpg)

Also does the exhaust look good or can I bring the sides of the roof up a tad to get a little more flow, or would I be better off leaving it as is? I will be beveling the ports after the pot comes back from getting the squish adjusted.
(http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn128/05_sprcrw/IMG_1083.jpg)
Title: Re: 394xp Rebuild
Post by: man of stihl on May 31, 2011, 06:10:17 pm
Looks real good! Again. I am not a pro builder. I am learning also, but this is what i would do. I would square up the edges a little on the exhaust but you still need to keep the dome shape on top of the port. Also it looks like you can grind closer to the flange holes. I only leave about 1mm of meat between the hole and the port. But on the inside i stay away from the witness lines about 2mm. And dont forget to chamfer your port!
Title: Re: 394xp Rebuild
Post by: Cut4fun . on May 31, 2011, 07:07:17 pm
This is a comparison of 2 exhaust ports on 2 sachs dolmar 166 I had. One was race and one woods ported.  Just to share with you.

(http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g289/doemaster789/166/Copyof166Dolmar004.jpg)
(http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g289/doemaster789/166/CopyofGS166001.jpg)

Title: Re: 394xp Rebuild
Post by: 05_sprcrw on June 01, 2011, 08:08:50 am
Thanks guys the more examples I can see the better.  ;D

I might take it a tad wider on the exhaust and work on squaring up the corners a little more yet.
Title: Re: 394xp Rebuild
Post by: 05_sprcrw on June 10, 2011, 01:49:47 pm
Here was a quick first cut video of the saw ported.  Sorry the camera angle isn't good didn't have a stand or someone to film it. I was cutting about a 30" elm, with an 8 tooth rim and 28" chain.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oakLgRcMzGM

Title: Re: husqvarna 394xp Rebuild
Post by: 05_sprcrw on January 21, 2014, 02:28:00 pm
I lost some info on my computer a while back and forgot I had signed up on here. I thought I should throw a little update in here, and say that the saw is still running great with no issues. Those cheap $3.25 bearings I put in from vbx are holding up great and I have since been buying more bearings from them with no issues at all. I would highly recommend them to anyone using them.  Sorry the porting pics got deleted somehow I will try and track them down again.
Title: Re: husqvarna 394xp Rebuild
Post by: JohnG28 on January 21, 2014, 03:58:19 pm
Good to hear. I hope you get your pics back in, I'm doing my first port project and could use some visual info. Great thread!
Title: Re: husqvarna 394xp Rebuild
Post by: KilliansRedLeo on January 26, 2014, 10:18:49 pm
Instead of emery paper try diamond paste. Cuts VERY fast, so be careful. Also you have to have a HARD surface to lap on.