Chainsaw Repair
Husqvarna - Stihl - Poulan - Jonsered - Dolmar chainsaws and more => Husqvarna => Topic started by: Cut4fun . on August 07, 2013, 01:42:29 pm
-
Got a husky 394 on it's way to check out. I never owned a 394 or husqvarna 395. Only ran others.
I read alot about bad coils on the 394 and wondering is there a replacement from another model saw that will work. I swear I read somewhere that JJ stated there was another coil that would work. ???
-
Issues I was informed of on 394.
((( 394 will start and run good for about 30 minutes and then bog down and quit on me.
Will not start easily after that if at all. Needs to cool down. )))
-
I'll know more when I can test it out and check spark after quitting after running and wont restart. Also wondering about tank vent on this.
-
394 and 395 thats it i don't have any aftermarket listed neither i have to order one next week about 80 bucks or so. I am supposed to be getting a few 385 huskys if so the 395 is getting peddled. It looks like the 385 top ends are 20-40 bucks higher than most, but i haven't really checked much
BILL
-
394 just got here.
-
If the saw was built after 01-01-95, Husqvarna will warranty the coil for free.
-
as i understand it blue coils only are warrantied
-
Got a husky 394 on it's way to check out. I never owned a 394 or husqvarna 395. Only ran others.
I read alot about bad coils on the 394 and wondering is there a replacement from another model saw that will work. I swear I read somewhere that JJ stated there was another coil that would work. ???
if you find another coil that works let me know i realy dont want to spend that much on this saw if i dont have to
-
Ok Husqvarna has changed there warranty policy now, but it used to be lifetime on ignition modules. The warranty now is(this is straight from the dealer) "limited lifetime warranty on ignition coils, meaning lifetime warranty on the coil or up to 7 years after the last year that specific model was produced" So there is no longer warranty on any 394, however they will still replace the coil on your 395. I am not sure if they ever came with an unlimited coil or not, but if it came from husqvarna with the coil it has on it now and it is bad, then it is under warranty if it's bad.
-
All I know is I used a jonsered ? ? ? ? (would have to look it up again) in a 3120 before and retimed the flywheel. The 272 coil is used the same way in 3120.
-
I just tested the pizz out the 394 in some 20" ash ( least it looked like it) and I am thinking it was carb issues. Before testing it started ran like crap shut off and not start. Right now I got it past all of that working on the L and I and H is set fat in the 11's cutting nicely IMO.
What is the max rpm's on a 394? Not going there, but like to know.
-
12.5
-
(http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g289/doemaster789/376/394wws371003_zps1e4a4ad5.jpg) (http://s59.photobucket.com/user/doemaster789/media/376/394wws371003_zps1e4a4ad5.jpg.html)
(http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g289/doemaster789/376/394wws371001_zpsd502a60b.jpg) (http://s59.photobucket.com/user/doemaster789/media/376/394wws371001_zpsd502a60b.jpg.html)
(http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g289/doemaster789/376/394wws371002_zps72489dcd.jpg) (http://s59.photobucket.com/user/doemaster789/media/376/394wws371002_zps72489dcd.jpg.html)
-
Doing some reading on husqvarna 394 coil.
This stuff sound right? Chip?? ?? ?? ?
Suitable Replacement Husqvarna 394 (1992-01) Ignition Coil & Chip
Husqvarna 394 (1992-01) Replacement Ignition Coil & Chip
The Husqvarna 394 (1992-01) ignition coil [module] has an armature and is U-shaped with two ends [sometimes three ends] facing the flywheel. The coil also has two sides. The primary side has thick wire wrapped around one leg approximately 150-200 times. The secondary side has very thin wire wrapped around the primary windings approximately 20,000 times. The flywheel has two imbedded magnets, a north and a south pole. When the magnets pass the U-shaped iron cores on the ignition coil, the primary winding builds voltage up to approximately 200 volts. Then, the electronic control module trigger breaks the current and sends it to the secondary side of the coil building voltage up to 20,000 volts used to fire the spark plug.
The Husqvarna 394 (1992-01) ignition chip is a trigger device that determines when the coil needs to fire the spark plug. It works by breaking the current from the primary side and sending it to the secondary side of the coil. This transfer steps up the voltage to fire the spark plug. The ignition trigger replaces points and the condenser on most chain saws having just two magnets [north and south]. If a flywheel has more than two magnets, then the ignition chip trigger will not work.
Note: On Stihl models 031, 032 and 041 these coils have a spark advance built into them and the ignition chip will cause misfiring.
To test the Husqvarna 394 (1992-01) ignition coil, disconnect the ignition switch wire at the ignition coil. Using a good quality spark tester, pull the starter rope with a good fast pull and check for spark. Removing the spark plug makes this process easier since it reduces the resistance when pulling the starter rope. If no spark is visible, remove the Husqvarna 394 (1992-01) ignition coil and sand the bottom of the coil. Also sand the mounting surface where the coils are attached to ensure a good and proper grounding of the ignition coil. Note: On some saws, the ignition coil bolts onto a plastic housing with a ground wire running to the cylinder or crankcase for a ground.
-
I GOT SPARK i have no idea what i did i hadthe coil off before and lost the paper with the part number so had to pull it again to read the number. must not of been grounding thats a hundred bucks that i get to keep
BILL
-
Good deal on the coil.
Still digging up info for coil options.
((( = coil with part number of 503901201 from husky, trade for a 394 coil;
= Your coil would actually work on a 394...it's a 254 coil.
= It would be the same coil as the 394 and some other older Husky saws. I don't know if the coil on the later 395s is limited but the last new
395 I had in my hands (2006 model) had an unlimited coil. It wouldn't be hard to come up with one if you bought a saw that did have one.
It's the same style mounts as the ignitions on the 268 272 51 55 154 254 257 261 262. )))
Now this might mean you have to retime the flywheel like on the 3120 swap. I dont know. But there is a out now.
anyone know or tried this on 394?
-
394 put through it paces again today in the ash logs. Coil never gave up. I think it was just carb issues IMO. Fattened her up and she is ready to go back out with owner to see if he can get the coil to stop on him or not. I'm betting not, but who knows, time will tell.
-
Just doing some more reading to learn on the 394. Seemed like some clutch noise or chatter in while cutting under the clutch cover.
OEM Clutch Assembly Husqvarna/Jonsered 181/288/394/395/2095 503 70 15 01 503701501
Stock clutch from Husqvarna. These clutches come completely assembled and ready to screw on. This clutch requires a 19mm wrench to install. Fits the following chainsaws:
Husqvarna 181, 281, 288, 394,
Jonsered 2095
Please Note:
Fits 281/288 before Serial Number 003900001
Fits 394 before Serial Number 003700001
Fits 2095 before Serial Number 9520000
-
Couldnt post this there. ;) http://www.ebay.com/itm/REPLAC-HUSQVARNA-CLUTCH-3-8-DRUM-FITS-395XP-394-281-288-503625903-19099-L-K-/160789539458
5 others using same part # http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_trksid=p2047675.m570.l1313&_nkw=503625903&_sacat=0&_from=R40
NEW CLUTCH DRUM ASSY FITS HUSQVARNA SAWS
REPLACES # 503625903
FITS
281 (1997-12)
281 (2000-02)
281 (2001-10)
288 (1997-12)
288 (2000-02)
288 (2001-10)
288 EPA (1997-12)
288 EPA (2000-02)
288 EPA (2001-10)
394 (1996-01)
394 EPA (1998-03)
395 (2001-01)
395 (2003-10)
395 (2005-05)
395 (EPA) (2007-01)
395 EPA (2001-01)
395 EPA (2003-10)
395 EPA (2005-05)
-
Could have had all of this for $20 Replacement clutch drum with rim for Husqvarna models 181, 281, 288, 394, 395 and Jonsered models 2095. 3/8" pitch, 7 tooth, bearing and shield included. Other size rims available.
Replaces OEM: 503 62 59-03 http://northwoodsaw.com/store/index.php?l=product_detail&p=1357
(http://northwoodsaw.com/store/images/products/large_1357_sprocketlca7n.jpg)
-
Have 2 394s in the shop that had no spark!
remove the Husqvarna 394 (1992-01) ignition coil and sand the bottom of the coil. Also sand the mounting surface where the coils are attached to ensure a good and proper grounding of the ignition coil. Note: On some saws, the ignition coil bolts onto a plastic housing with a ground wire running to the cylinder or crankcase for a ground.
Tried the above from reply 13, then trickled a little gas in the intake....VIOLA....both saws started on the fourth or fifth pull. :o
Ain't that just a beach! ;D
-
I GOT SPARK i have no idea what i did i hadthe coil off before and lost the paper with the part number so had to pull it again to read the number. must not of been grounding thats a hundred bucks that i get to keep
BILL
Hey Bill, Tim here! Have a look at my post prior to this one. You must have had a bad ground and removing the coil and putting it back got a better ground!
I looked closely at the 394 coil and it has the same number as some Italian coils used on the 268 saws! I will switch out the 394 coil ::) for a 268 and let everyone know what happens.
OK, so the 268 coil I tried works, it is off a late model 268 and is made by Ducati of Italy, has a red ground wire that grounds to one of the coil mounting bolts.
Also, it appears that husky wired the ground two different ways,
If the coil has a ground wire then the on/off switch is screwed to the carb box and only gets the blue wire connected to it
If the coil has no ground wire, then there is a short black ground wire that goes from the switch mounting screw to one of the bolts holding the carb box to the case of the saw.
I have now done it both ways depending on the coil and both work.
Lastly, before you think the coil is bad test the switch itself, I had one working yesterday and today no spark! Changed only the switch and all is well.
:-)
Hope this helps everyone, I'm done for today and am off to drink a few beers and smoke a big fat cigar!!!!!
-
I'd bet that this would work in a 394/395
http://northwoodsaw.com/store/index.php?l=product_detail&p=113
-
Got a chance to really give the 394 a work out yesterday.
Friend had a nice size tree to take down.
He limbed it with his Husky 450, but used my 394 to put it on the ground.
I then cut it up into manageable pieces.
Took almost 2 tanks of gas.
Had a little trouble starting it after the first refill, but it did start and ran great.
-
winland
I dont think it is it. But you could clean the area around your coil and remove and clean contact area too. If the need raises.
Have 2 394s in the shop that had no spark!
remove the Husqvarna 394 (1992-01) ignition coil and sand the bottom of the coil. Also sand the mounting surface where the coils are attached to ensure a good and proper grounding of the ignition coil. Note: On some saws, the ignition coil bolts onto a plastic housing with a ground wire running to the cylinder or crankcase for a ground.
Tried the above from reply 13, then trickled a little gas in the intake....VIOLA....both saws started on the fourth or fifth pull. :o
Ain't that just a beach! ;D
-
What do you guys thing a running 394 in fair condition is worth. One is going to be at an auction coming up. And I am thinking about picking it up if I can. I was thinking somewhere around 300 but just what some other opinions.
-
$3-500 depending on condition
-
Thank you. I hope I can get. Have wanted a big husky for a while now and this just might fit the budget.
-
Bought that 394xp tag says it is a 1999. Needs some work. Muffler is **** at the bottom bracket. Pto case is broken at the lower tank av mount. And last but not least it has no spark. Think it needs a coil. Checked gap. Plug wire,plug spring in the boot. Checked kill wire has a bare spot. Disconnected and still no spark. Magnets on flywheel are still magnetic no blue spots does have some rub marks. Also tried a different plug. Will post some pics later this evening. Other wise it looks pretty nice.
-
Payed $280 for it plus I got 2 junk trimmers.
-
The coils go bad pretty often, there are some AM ones available.
Broken PTO side cases is common, some can be fixed.
-
Who would you say is the best aftermarket place to get one.
-
(http://i1250.photobucket.com/albums/hh535/jmester/image.jpg1_8.jpg) (http://s1250.photobucket.com/user/jmester/media/image.jpg1_8.jpg.html)
(http://i1250.photobucket.com/albums/hh535/jmester/image.jpg4_2.jpg) (http://s1250.photobucket.com/user/jmester/media/image.jpg4_2.jpg.html)
(http://i1250.photobucket.com/albums/hh535/jmester/image.jpg2_5.jpg) (http://s1250.photobucket.com/user/jmester/media/image.jpg2_5.jpg.html)
(http://i1250.photobucket.com/albums/hh535/jmester/image.jpg3_3.jpg) (http://s1250.photobucket.com/user/jmester/media/image.jpg3_3.jpg.html)
-
Muffler is trash. the bottom near the bracket is broken off and some of the surrounding metal is missing. Don't think I will be able to fix it. Piston has some carbon scoring. Will pull apart in the morning and see what the cylinder looks like. Looks like I am going to lose on this one. But I guess that is how it goes sometimes. It will be a nice saw when I am done. What would you all do buy a new oe piston or aftermarket?
-
Meteor piston. And see about finding a donor case to cut a piece to weld in. Take a closer pic of the missing piece if you don't mind
Adam
-
(http://i1250.photobucket.com/albums/hh535/jmester/image.jpg1_9.jpg) (http://s1250.photobucket.com/user/jmester/media/image.jpg1_9.jpg.html)
I sure can and did. It is not as bad as it looks from just the front view. Up close it seems to be a lot smaller of a piece missing.
-
That piece doesn't really affect anything there if the horizontal mount is tight. There's plenty of aftermarket mufflers for $20 or so. Oem is almost $90. You can put a piece on to protect the spring by bolting it to the 2 holes on the lower front like the west coast saws have.
-
You have a pic or somewhere I can look at one.
-
(http://i1250.photobucket.com/albums/hh535/jmester/image.jpg2_6.jpg) (http://s1250.photobucket.com/user/jmester/media/image.jpg2_6.jpg.html)
Exhaust side of the piston. Looks like a lean seize and not a carbon score.
(http://i1250.photobucket.com/albums/hh535/jmester/image.jpg3_4.jpg) (http://s1250.photobucket.com/user/jmester/media/image.jpg3_4.jpg.html)
Intake side of the piston.
(http://i1250.photobucket.com/albums/hh535/jmester/image.jpg1_10.jpg) (http://s1250.photobucket.com/user/jmester/media/image.jpg1_10.jpg.html)
Cylinder on the exhaust side.
-
The piece is shown in this ad. Just make it wider to go all the way to the spikes. Cylinder should clean up by the looks of it.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/HUSQVARNA-CHAINSAW-394-395-DOG-SPIKE-SET-NEW-BOX2061-/231210278175?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item35d534dd1f
-
Thanks. Looks like it will not be to hard to make. Cylinder clean up real nice. Now I need to get everything washed up. And order some parts.
-
Will a 395 piston work? Would there be any benefit to running that one over the 394 piston if it fits
-
To use a 395 cylinder on a 394 you need these parts . . .
http://www.hlsproparts.com/OEM-Husqvarna-394-to-395-cylinder-conversion-kit-p/h40394.htm
The 394 impulse is internal whereas the 395 has a external impulse hose.
Best I can find the pistons will interchange somewhat
The bore and compression height and pin are the same.
The difference is that the skirt is 1mm shorter on the 395
Also for what it's worth - The 394 porting is the old style loop transfers with a single port on each side. All the transfer is up in the cylinder.
The 395 has quad porting more like a 372 but the cylinder base for 394/395 is the same. In other words there is no part of the intake transfer in the crankcase of the 394 or 395
-
So the 395 jug has better flow then the 394 jug. Not so much asking about a whole conversion. But rather just the Pistons, it seems there is no real benefit the running the 395 piston in the 394 jug. Was thinking maybe they had a different compression
Height. Was also thinking maybe the 395 1.2mm rings would be better than the 394 1.5mm.
-
Not much real difference in power with them stock or ported. The 394 jug can be made to flow plenty.
-
Who would you guys get an aftermarket coil from
-
Also will the coil from a 257/262 or a Jred 2095 work?
-
http://northwoodsaw.com/store/index.php?l=product_detail&p=113
This is the one I am looking at
-
http://www.vecignitions.com/data/english/hv2.html
Some more info on the one above
-
From what I have read on the other site the only real difference is the angle that the plug wire comes out of the ignition module is a little different.
-
Think I found my answer here. http://chainsawrepair.createaforum.com/husqvarna/husqvarna-394/20/
Seems I need to make sure the coil is grounded well before I buy another one.
-
Got my hyway muffler today looks great. Do you guys think it needs another exit hole and a deflector or cut it in half and remove the innards? Also got my first meteor piston today and they are very nice looking as well. Should have the rest of the parts tomorrow to start putting it back together. Have the new crank bearings in already and the rest of the parts are washed. Carb is rebuilt and ready to go. Does anyone have any pics they would like to see while I am putting it back together for reference or knowledge?
-
Is it the pipe exit?
-
No pipe it has a deflector on the clutch side
-
It wouldn't hurt to open it up some. Most of them can benefit from a larger exhaust outlet if you can stand the noise.
-
Thinking on using the 288 deflector think it will match the best with the stock deflector. Thanks
-
Either braze it on or use "POP" rivets because sheet metal screws, if they get free, will spin out faster than a blink and your 288 deflector will be in the chips somewhere.
-
I like the put bolts in and tack them to the muffler body or weld them on
-
I always weld captive nuts to the inside of the muffler and use M4 machine screws.
I've tired pop rivets and sheet metal screws and they all work loose eventually.
I pull the captive nut into the muffler using a screw and a nut till they seat nicely. Then it will stay put while I carefully weld around the top with the tig welder. It makes for a clean install.
This one is just to hold the muffler screen which slips under the deflector that I made and welded on.
(http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m599/srcarr52/Husky372BB_10-16-12/IMG_1833.jpg)
-
Freshened the coil ground and still no spark. Need a coil think I am going to get the one above from northwood. Have a call to chainsawr to see if he may have a used one. Now on to the muffler mod.
-
Got one on the way from chainsawr. Don't like the look of the deflector on the side. Going to run a stock muffler. It will be the only saw I have that is not muffler modded. Might be nice to have a quiet one. If I do decide to mm in the future I will cut in half and pull out the guts.
-
The pipe one is louder to me than the side exit. I added a deflector on the front for a dual port on the pipe muffler I had.
-
Did not think to put it on the front. Thought it would get smashed up but this is not a 346. It has big dogs. Also I used a piece of plastic bar scabbard for my front av spring protector. Let me know what you think.
(http://i1250.photobucket.com/albums/hh535/jmester/image.jpg1_13.jpg) (http://s1250.photobucket.com/user/jmester/media/image.jpg1_13.jpg.html)
-
That should keep junk from getting into the spring. I put it on the front since that's where the paint burnt off first.
-
I don't know what you aim to do with the little plastic guard. The cases get broke by the AV mount from people wrenching on them or dropping them and the AV spring actually hits the case and breaks them.
Here is where I put an extra outlet on the muffler.
(http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m599/srcarr52/394%20Build/IMG_0916.jpg)
-
The case is already broken. Just trying to keep to sticks and what every else may poke in there. If it does not work I can always try some thing else. Guess a piece of broken husky sprocket cover would work a little better.
-
I wouldn't worry about stuff getting up in there. They have a pretty large gap from the factory and the stock case protector doesn't even cover that area.
This is the stock west coast case gaurd and a non broken 394 case.
(http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m599/srcarr52/Husky394XP_3-12-11/IMG_1120.jpg)
-
Wonder how many people have walked away from buying a nice 394 because they thought the case was broken. Do the 395s come with a side access chain tensioner? Looked at a few IPL and seems they are all on the inside. If the do come that way will they fit a 394? I got my new coil installed and have spark. Will tune it later today. To wet to get into people's yards today with out tearing them to pieces.
-
Wonder how many people have walked away from buying a nice 394 because they thought the case was broken. Do the 395s come with a side access chain tensioner? Looked at a few IPL and seems they are all on the inside. If the do come that way will they fit a 394? I got my new coil installed and have spark. Will tune it later today. To wet to get into people's yards today with out tearing them to pieces.
The 394/395 never had a side tensioner.
-
(http://i1250.photobucket.com/albums/hh535/jmester/image.jpg2_8.jpg) (http://s1250.photobucket.com/user/jmester/media/image.jpg2_8.jpg.html)
(http://i1250.photobucket.com/albums/hh535/jmester/image.jpg3_5.jpg) (http://s1250.photobucket.com/user/jmester/media/image.jpg3_5.jpg.html)
(http://i1250.photobucket.com/albums/hh535/jmester/image.jpg1_14.jpg) (http://s1250.photobucket.com/user/jmester/media/image.jpg1_14.jpg.html)
-
Looks good. You'll like the stumping power.
-
Got it all together. Still need to tune the saw but very happy with how it turned out. Would like to thank some members for there help in getting the parts I needed to get it done. Dave @ chainsaw conservation components. Nate @ performance outdoor Equipment. And Jim @ HL Supply and Scott @ Chainsawr.
-
Thank you. Roger has my case half done getting welded. So once I get it I will be back on the polished case 660.
-
Well got it tuned. I am thinking I set the metering lever a little to low for the high speed screw is only about a half turn out to run about 11,500. The low speed is about 1.5 turns out to take out the hesitation coming off idle. But maybe I am not that familiar with husky and settings like that are normal. Any thoughts ? I know my 084 is similar in that the H jet is only like a 1/4 turn out and the low is 1 to 1.5 out. Other than that seems like it is going to be fun.
-
Well got it tuned. I am thinking I set the metering lever a little to low for the high speed screw is only about a half turn out to run about 11,500. The low speed is about 1.5 turns out to take out the hesitation coming off idle. But maybe I am not that familiar with husky and settings like that are normal. Any thoughts ? I know my 084 is similar in that the H jet is only like a 1/4 turn out and the low is 1 to 1.5 out. Other than that seems like it is going to be fun.
If you have the high side screw only out 0.5 turns and it's turning 11,500 RPM free speed it's drowning in fuel from too high of metering lever setting, too low pop off pressure (weak or wrong spring), or you have a leaking needle and seat.
You should be able to get 12.5-13kRPM with 0.75-1 turn out.
-
Yes you are correct. After you said that I realized that I had it backwards. What should the pop off pressure be around 12 to 15 psi?
-
Rechecked metering lever just barely touching the walbro w gauge. The inlet needle begins to bubble at 25psi and blows off at 32psi or so. Seems a little high to me. The metering diaphragm is to slide into the the top and bottom side of the metering lever?
-
Rechecked metering lever just barely touching the walbro w gauge. The inlet needle begins to bubble at 25psi and blows off at 32psi or so. Seems a little high to me. The metering diaphragm is to slide into the the top and bottom side of the metering lever?
That sounds about right, they are pretty high pop off. Yes, there is a notch in the diaphragm which should slide into the lever.
-
I guess the lever was higher than it seemed. Put pressure on the carb and slid the w gauge over the lever and it released the pressure. Lowered it some more to where when the gauge goes acrossed it there was no pressure drop. Have it pressurized now it has only lost 5 lbs in the past 18 mins I think that is plenty good will put it back on and try again.
-
To use those high pressures on the carb inlet to get the metering needle to open doesn't do the pump diaphragm any good?
I just check them with 1/2 atmosphere and see if the hold. I trip the needle manually and then check that the needle re-seats itself and holds.
Sometimes you find a leak around the pump diaphragm instead of the metering valve needle?
-
It hold pressure very well. Only thing I could find was the metering lever was a little to high so I dropped the metering lever down a little bit. Will see tomorrow how it does. Thanks for the help in getting it figured out. Think from now on I will pressurize the carb to set the metering lever.
-
Well I had a chance to try it again. Still slow on the top. Pulled it back apart and dropped the metering lever about half way down the recess where the lever goes. Gained about 500 rpm on the top. Still can not hit 12000 even with the H jet all the way in. Can't drop the lever to much farther as the lever won't have enough clearance on the bottom of the recess to pick up the inlet needle. Would the check valve have any thing to do with it? Any thoughts? Have to say this is a first for me. The carb is a walbro wj-70 and I used the k10-wj rebuild kit.
-
My experience with blown high speed check valves is that the engine wants to run richer than what it should considering where the high speed needle is set.
-
Sounds like my high speed check valve is blown. Based on what you have said. Because it is way rich on the high side.
-
Think I found my problem. I used the k10-wj kit to rebuild this carb. I should have used the k13-wj kit. From what I can tell the only difference is the inlet needles in the kit. Plus to double check my self I went to some husky IPL and looked at the wj-39 on the early 394 and it uses the k10 kit with inlet needle part number 503117001. then I looked at the wj-70 EPA carb and it has inlet needle part number 503563401. Walbro lookup online says the wj-70 takes a k10 kit. Walbro Partsmart lookup says to use the k13 kit. I will get the k13 kit and go from there.
-
Just comparing the 2. Surprised the longer needle even fit in there.
If I remember right I had a WG2 3120 carb that used the needle from the 084 HT carb kits. Had to figure that one out on a rebuild of carb once. I was like hmmmmm.
Figure there had to be a reason Marcel or Levesque did that to a race carb. Put longer needle in carb.
503117001
(http://www.ereplacementparts.com/images/part_p_614753_1879841253.gif)
503563401
(http://www.ereplacementparts.com/images/part_p_615009_1584965466.gif)
-
(http://i1250.photobucket.com/albums/hh535/jmester/image.jpg1_15.jpg) (http://s1250.photobucket.com/user/jmester/media/image.jpg1_15.jpg.html)
-
(http://i1250.photobucket.com/albums/hh535/jmester/image.jpg2_9.jpg) (http://s1250.photobucket.com/user/jmester/media/image.jpg2_9.jpg.html)
-
Look close at the top pic on the 82-75-7 needle that is the one in the k10 kit and the one one the bottom the 82-82-7 needle is the one that would be in the k13 kit. Local walbro dealer says the k13 kit supersedes to the k10 kit. That second taper is what I believe to be causing my over rich condition. What do you think? The 82-82 needle comes in the k15-wj kit for your stihl 660.
-
Cut. Based on the husky IPL pic and the walbro IPL pic. I thought they both where the small needles. Just a little different. It is raining here today. Hope to have time to tear it down and fix the carb and try running it today to see if the wrong needle is my problem.
-
The 82-82 needle loosened her up real good. Now that how it supposed to run. I am real happy with got it tuned about 12,200. Got some pines to cut tomorrow think I am going to go get it all sappy. Thanks for everyone's help.
-
I like to tune a stock one to around 13k.
-
I may bring it up some more. Would like to let the rings seat a bit first.
-
Yeah it won't hurt to keep it down to 12.5k or so like you have. They do run better at 13k or so
-
I am quite impressed with this 394. Cut down some pines yesterday and flushed a 30" stump today. Glad I bought it and look forward to using it cutting timber with a buddy of mine next week.
-
Looks like a good project........
Funny how $300 is a common starting price for good used pro saws.
I've sold my old saws for that for the last 30 years :D
-
It was a good project. I am always in need of more husky saw repair practice. What did your first 066 sell for new? If you don't mind.
-
It was a good project. I am always in need of more husky saw repair practice. What did your first 066 sell for new? If you don't mind.
To be honest I can't remember. My '92 red light 066 I got for below dealer cost.
When I quit working for Stihl in January 1990 the guy who replaced me came out to my neck of the woods on one of his road trips with the gift.
Dave Gordon was his name , great guy. Haven't seen him in years.
-
Are the new tank vent stems updated in any way. Seems this saw likes to vapor lock. Other than that it rips it real nice.
-
394 recoil decal sticker. Watch DMS on FEEbay. He just sold one last month. ;) He gets top prices buttttttttttt good to deal with when needed.
Make one if its a user and not for selling.
-
Thanks cut. I looked him up and sent him a message. Guess I will have to wait and see.
-
Fuel tank holds a vacuum. Ordered and new vent and filter plug.
-
Fuel tank holds a vacuum. Ordered and new vent and filter plug.
Always nice to figure it how why it was doing something like that.
-
Those tank vent setups can clog up and cause a lean problem. One of the 394s I got to rebuild that was the only problem it had and it scored the piston.
-
A fuel tank vent has a lot to do with how a saw runs. Was going to try and modify something else to work. Tried some different Stihl vents that I have laying around but nothing seemed to work quite right. The only other thing I was thinking was to find a small grub screw like in the old style 025 tank vents and screw down in the plastic stem to see if that would work a little better than the way husky has them. Have the 025 grub screws and they are to small at the beginning of the stem and to large at the small end. But for what the vent cost from husky not sure it is worth the time to try and figure out.
-
You can double check your vent set up with your Mighty Vac tester or just draw on it with your mouth?
-
I did mess with it a little more last nite. Had to drill the inner part of the stem to even get the grub screw started. Got it to thread in, it was to tight. It would hold vaccum. I feel that is as big as I could drill with out messing up the walls of the vent stem. Need to find a small dia coarse set screw and try that. I think it would work very well to find a smaller dia set screw as there would be less surface area touching the stem and allow air to pass more freely.
-
The vent cannot hold a vacuum on the tank side or the engine will eventually starve for fuel.
I'm thinking that was the point of your post?
-
Yes it was. Just trying to do some different things to see if I could get something to work. Seems there is a lot of problems with the vent system on these saws.
-
A fuel tank vent has a lot to do with how a saw runs. Was going to try and modify something else to work. Tried some different Stihl vents that I have laying around but nothing seemed to work quite right. The only other thing I was thinking was to find a small grub screw like in the old style 025 tank vents and screw down in the plastic stem to see if that would work a little better than the way husky has them. Have the 025 grub screws and they are to small at the beginning of the stem and to large at the small end. But for what the vent cost from husky not sure it is worth the time to try and figure out.
I was fixing a 009 and screwed the grub screw into the hose and it made a total seal tried again by just pushing it in and it worked, must have been screwing it in cut a thread and fully sealed the line , just an idea
-
Been there and done that
-
The difference is the vent is not a rubber hose it is plastic. I am going to the local hardware store later to see if I can find something else that may work.
-
You could also refit the tank for an Echo style external vent assembly.
-Block off the old tank vent hole (or just leave the old vent in place).
-Drill a hole near the top of the tank (just a little smaller than the OD of a piece of fuel line.....so that the line seals against the hole).
-Pull a length of line through the hole so that it extends an inch or two into the tank.
-Route the line into the carb box area (may have to drill a pass through hole in the plastic carb box).
-Put an Echo fuel tank vent (as used on trimmers and such) on the end of the line.
That vent is available separately, and in various 'fuel line kits' sold for Echo machines. I've seen those kits for sale on Amazon and at Home Depot as well. The 'kits' come with a few pieces of line, a tank grommet, a tank filter, and the vent assembly. The vent lives outside the fuel tank. I've used them for refitting Husky 2100/2101 tank vents with success.
http://www.ereplacementparts.com/fuel-tank-vent-p-502350.html
(http://www.ereplacementparts.com/images/part_p_502350_1660292386.gif)
http://www.amazon.com/Mantis-Tiller-Parts-Line-3-Fuel/dp/B0092GK3RI/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1436645907&sr=8-5&keywords=echo+fuel+line+kit
-
+1 never crossed my mind to do one like that. Thanks
-
Good deal! Thanks Aaron.
-
Those Echo vents are great. All you need is a hole for a fuel line and a little space for the vent to hang out in. The idea came to me from an old timer in a local shop.
-
Thank you. I am working with joe at sugar creek on a 394 decal set.
-
Going to replace my wj-70 carb as I still can not get it to run right. Found the wj-71 as a replacement and is about 50 to buy. The wj-70 cost around 100 or so. Hope this gets it going right.
-
Wj 39 or wj 69 can be made to fit with a few linkage changes from what I remember.
-
Thanks. I should have posted before I bought the wj -71. I have a handful of good wj-69 here. That I could have used. I guess haste makes waste.
-
You'll end up with plenty of good carb choices.
-
Finally figured out why I still could not gain any rpm on the top. I put on a oem ignition module. Problem fixed. Guess I have a good wj-70. Saw idles better and picks up rpm faster. I should have known to get a oem one from the start. Found the one I got on eBay for $77 shipped. I am going to run it threw some wood on Monday.
-
Aftermarket 394 coil was holding it back? I was just looking at them the other day while shopping for parts.
-
Yes, i guess that is what you get for $30. The saw sounds different. And will go lean on the high side with the high speed screw. It always seemed to just be over fueled. That is why I bought another carb. And that did not fix it. Then I knew it had to be the module.
-
That sounds about right,
This saw built by you sounds right too. :o
https://youtu.be/yWuRoCB2Z6U
-
This saw built by you sounds right too. :o
It was a good saw but 395 FTW!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GnH3u4CrMBg
-
Dang! you put a tach on that to see what it was pulling through that cut. Sounds sweeeeeeeeet
-
Wj 39 or wj 69 can be made to fit with a few linkage changes from what I remember.
My 394 has the WJ-39-1, I think its stock for older ones. So no changes even needed. The WJ-39-1, I believe, has essentially been replaced by WJ-71-1
-
Wj 39 or wj 69 can be made to fit with a few linkage changes from what I remember.
My 394 has the WJ-39-1, I think its stock for older ones. So no changes even needed. The WJ-39-1, I believe, has essentially been replaced by WJ-71-1
WJ-39 is the normal 394 carb.
WJ-70 is the late model EPA compliant carb.
-
1993 husqvarna 394 low top in. Need a few parts. 503524401
Need to pull carb to see
WJ-70-1 K10-WJ
WJ-71-1 K13-WJ **OBSOLETE/USE K10-WJ**
WJ-39-1 K10-WJ
-
I would guess wj-39
-
Yep. Most likely a Walbro WJ39.
http://www.barrettsmallengine.com/partslist/husqvarna394-1994-01.PDF
Later 394's have a Walbro WJ70 or WJ71.
395XP's had HS298A or HS300A Tillotsons.
-
93 394
-
Think I found my problem. I used the k10-wj kit to rebuild this carb. I should have used the k13-wj kit. From what I can tell the only difference is the inlet needles in the kit. Plus to double check my self I went to some husky IPL and looked at the wj-39 on the early 394 and it uses the k10 kit with inlet needle part number 503117001. then I looked at the wj-70 EPA carb and it has inlet needle part number 503563401. Walbro lookup online says the wj-70 takes a k10 kit. Walbro Partsmart lookup says to use the k13 kit. I will get the k13 kit and go from there.
Kit I just bought had the long and short needles. Is this the differences? Also has 2 different check valve dia's.
K13 showed NLA
-
Merged 2 threads. No wonder I was confused where my post went,
-
Just finished tuning a 1998 394 with 36". Just wanting to check and see if I ended up close to specs.
394XP 94 5.7 56 38 7.1 17.4 3/4 1 1/2 2,500 12,500
395XP 93.6 5.7 56 38 7.1 17.4 - - - 2,500 12,500
-
What carb did it end up being. The WJ-70 needs the inlet needle from a K15-WJ. If you look close at the inlet needle they have a different step at the taper. I am talking about the short inlet needle. The only reason I ever found that out is because the 394 I had, came with the WJ-70 and needed the NLA K13 kit. But keep in mind the needle from the k10 kit may have been fine, because I was having ignition module problems.
-
Thanks for info. Havent pulled that one apart yet.
Was busy with other 98 394, 372, 353 and chainsaw today.
I ordered him oem kit that has 2 needles in it. Did your 10 come with only 1?
-
@jmester your kit have these 2 or just 1?
-
So a k10 and a k15 kit both come with a long and short inlet needle. The WJ70 and WJ71 use the smaller needle. If you look close at the small needle as mentioned above there is a step at the taper of the needle.If you read back in the thread I could not get the saw to make any rpm. I was thinking it was fuel because i had already replaced the ignition module with a new aftermarket one, the carb was at half a turn out on the high It was not even close to 13,000.So I check pop off pressure and lever height and it checked out ok. Then I got to looking at the inlet needle and realized the step on the taper which allows more fuel. So I took the small needle out of the k15 kit that does not have a step and gain a good bit of rpm. But that did not fix the saw. It ended up being the ignition module holding it back. I would use the needle in the kit that you have.
Also I edited my post above as my part number where backwards and fubared. The 82-75-7 is the big needle and the small needle should be 82-82-7. I still can't find a part number for the small needle in the K15 kit.
-
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180210/b866f5e5ada1b9e75855d8dc8628b87a.jpg)
The inlet needle on top is the one that should be in the k10 kit with the step. The one on the bottom is the one from the k15 kit. I hope this makes sense to you all.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
-
Thanks for the help. This will all come in handy when I pull the 93 down. Thanks.
-
Notice the writing on the OEM Wabro kit. Some of all parts may be produced in Mexico Thailand Japan USA.
Going to compare kits I have for WJ's in K10's for my poulans. All say made in China though and not walbro. From that carb place on here.
-
Some things were missing on the high top 98 394. Had to use long needled noose to adjust the I. Had a stihl rubber plug in the hole.
503 46 52-02 503465202
503 46 51-01 503465101
-
I got the walbro K10 kit in yesterday and will look at that close today. Will compare to my china K-10 kits too.
I swear I didnt see the step in the K10 walbro kit on a quick look. Will try and get pic.
-
WJ-39 on the 93 394. Used the long needle shown in K-10 kit.
-
If you are talking about the step in the diaphragm. In a tight you can use the diaphragm w/step just lower needle lever to compensate for diff in length.
Shep
-
He is talking about the step in the nose of the needle in pic.
-
Christine lives. 24" 8t full comp buried was teasing it in the ash chunk. :D 8)
-
He is talking about the step in the nose of the needle in pic.
Didn't scroll up high enough to see pic.
Shep
-
Husky 394 dropped off. Owner says cuts fine but when it let off it would die. Start right back up and do it again. Over and over.
Plus 2 2100 carb rebuilds with it.
-
DP he had done.
-
98 high top 394xp full wrap being offered on trade for my sons ole car.
Was asking 7 for the boys car. Told him I would allow 5 on the 394. He had just put the afm muffler on it not long ago. Said he just used it last week.
-
So did you get the 394? Thinking 5 might be a little much on the saw. But then again what do I really know anyway.
-
So did you get the 394? Thinking 5 might be a little much on the saw. But then again what do I really know anyway.
No I sold the car outright. Worked out better for me. I was just going to flip the 394 to get the trade $ back.
Also a guy from MO offered a 661 on trade. Still scared of those reading about all the ones that break.
Another south of me in OH offer a 044 and 250 plus boot.
-
Very nice husqvarna 394 woods port I got to test out yesterday.
-
394 muffler mod and tuning for local.
Then play with a very short bar.
-
Had ask about this in CRG. Has anyone ever tried the 394 to 395 conversion kit? pics
OEM Husqvarna 394 to 395 cylinder conversion kit https://www.hlsproparts.com/OEM-Husqvarna-394-to-395-cylinder-conversion-kit-p/h40394-dns.htm
Husqvarna 394 conversion kit
Everything you need to convert your 394 to use the 395 cylinder kit
Includes: Clamp (505 28 33-03), manifold (503 96 97-01), collar (503 96 94-01), flange (503 97 39-01), impulse hose (503 40 06-07), impulse fitting (503 08 20-01), 2 x pipe (503 70 11-01), 2 x screw (725 53 09-55), 2 x cylinder bolt (503 21 60-40), cylinder gasket (503 46 56-01)
All parts are OEM. You will need to install the impulse fitting in the bottom of the carburetor. See picture.
-
Picked up locals 1993 394xp low top with pro safety full wrap last night. Just to get in right hands for his asking of 550.
Pending
-
Picked up locals 1993 394xp low top with pro safety full wrap last night. Just to get in right hands for his asking of 550.
Pending
After checking things for folks. Not ready IMO to be sold as a good runner with 125psi and some carbon type scuffing.
Owner told me to keep and clean and fix it for him instead.
No transfer to clean up and cylinder cleaned up in mins with fresh crosshatching.
Going to do a new piston kit being it has some west coast style work done to it and cylinder from 20 + years back.
Found out saw came from Oregon close to 20 years ago. Noticed it had some of their style porting theories in it.
Before clean up. Lucky no transfer. Then after cleaning and quick fresh crosshatching for new rings and piston when arrives. I'm talking just seconds on the crosshatching each way to remove glaze etc. Also can do by hand with emery clothe.
-
Saving some stock numbers posted
74-105-125 squish was .055 with a gasket stock numbers 394
77-102-124 squish .060 395 stock numbers
Different 395 with .030 squish
ex 104
tr 124
In 78
Got a couple Farmertec 395 clone numbers one in pics. Got to go back find rest.
One in pic with gasket. Mine was .045 squish with base gasket.
Another G395
ex 102
Tr 125
In 76
With NO gasket and .027 squish
-
Started right back up yesterday after refresh.
New piston kit. Good to go after cylinder clean up.
Test cut with and tuned hair fat.
Much better getting rid of that carved up piston in that 394. New piston kit, cylinder cleaning.
Much better throttle response etc. Old voodoo piston IMO was holding back a tad.
-
Love the work bench ya got there in the 7-29-18 post! Just the ticket for working on old saws.
-
Love the work bench ya got there in the 7-29-18 post! Just the ticket for working on old saws.
Family buffet deal that has a matching china cabinet inside house. We ran out of room in den one year and nobody at time wanted it in family. So ask my mom ok to put in barn.
Been there ever since.
Of 3 benches it is the catch all of extras.