Chainsaw Repair
Husqvarna - Stihl - Poulan - Jonsered - Dolmar chainsaws and more => Husqvarna => Topic started by: rsrjerry on August 21, 2013, 04:48:52 pm
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Hi after a few pointers please, got problem with my husky 262xp when starting the chain is rotated and when running the chain keeps turning. I had a look and noticed the clutch was **** so thought must be the problem, so replaced put back together but still got the same problem any ideas please ? Cheers
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Have you tuned the carb? Setting L and I
http://www.madsens1.com/saw_carb_tune.htm
Check for air leak somewhere if carb is tuned right?
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Yeah not a carb problem , its when I am starting as in pulling over the chain is rotaing as I pull start as in before the saw has fired up
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Something is wrong with the clutch?
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But cant see what , have replaced clutch today but still same problem ?
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You should be able to pull the chain around the bar without it turning the engine over?
When you pull on the starter rope the drum or bell of the clutch should not move!
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Yeah not a carb problem , its when I am starting as in pulling over the chain is rotaing as I pull start as in before the saw has fired up
I was thinking chain turning idling etc. OK down another road of thought then.
Does the clutch drum turn freely by hand?
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mostly when I have ran into this it is either the clutch spring or the sprocket bearing
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3 quick things........ Is there any kind of build-up or debri on the inside of the clutch drum?..........Is the bearing or race for the drum moving freely?.......Where there any washers/spacers maybe worn-out,not installed correctly or missing within the clutch/drum assembly?..... All 3 have given me problems at one time or another on any given saw and all with a similar problem as you are describing....
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Is it a later with sprocket powered oiler? If so make sure you got it correctly put together.
Do you have correct/identical parts? Often the drum or clutch is not correct.
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But cant see what , have replaced clutch today but still same problem ?
Did you replace the clutch bearing as well? It may not work properly.
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If it has the three shoe clutch there should be a BIG flat washer between the clutch itself and the drum. If it is not there the clutch will tighten against the drum and lock everything up tight, resulting in the problem you have.
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Also, look closely at the picture above, there are 4 tabs on the clutch bell that must be engaged with the four slots in the pump drive worm if they are not then things can also lock up.
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Thanks for all the replies lads , I am stuck to be honest . Basically I had the problem described and noticed the clutch was **** so I removed and replaced the clutch , only thing I did not change is the clutch bearing so suppose it could be that as well?
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You never did say if the original clutch was a two or three shoe type. The 3 shoe is standard on the 262XP, the 261 used the 2 shoe type. IIRC the 262 used two different clutch setups one for the pressed on the crank oil pump drive and a different one for the worm wheel style. If you mix any of the parts up you will have the problem you are describing.
If you try to use a 2 shoe on a 3 shoe setup I think you will also have problems.
We might be of more help if you could post a couple of pictures.
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Thanks for the above 3 x shoe type and replaced with the same I will get some photos tomorrow and post up cheers
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You may have missed the point about the full time oiler with the pressed on worm gear and the oiler that only works when the chain is turning that has a gear driven by the clutch bell? The clutch bells/drums are different on these. Which type do you have?
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still not got any further with this problem , attached some photos , any pointers again would be great
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That is a part time oiler that only works when the chain is running as the worm is powered by the clutch hub
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Ok thanks for that it oils fine the problem I have is why when I am pull starting does the chain rotate? And then once started the chain rotaes on tick over , I replaced the clutch as other 2 of the shoes had **** so took it that was the problem and replacrd the shoe part as a unit but I still have same problem. Needle bearing is fine so lost now cant see what else needs to be replaced to be honest?
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There is a small washer that fits on the crankshaft the keeps the oil pump worm gear away from the crankcase seal. I do not see it in your pictures?
After you install the pump, and set the worm gear into place, when you install the clutch drum with the rim sprocket, the drum must be fitted to the worm . . .
There are pieces of the drum that mesh within the plastic worm gear. If you install the clutch drum without working it into the drive mechanism of the worm gear, everything will be in a bind and the clutch will turn all the time.
The big washer goes between the clutch drum and the clutch spider before you screw the spider on. The writing and the wrench flats go towards the outside of the clutch
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Did you just replace the 3 shoe portions of the clutch? Seems to me that maybe the clutch spider or hub may be worn and not letting the shoes sit correctly. Could just be the drive sprocket bearing or the drum is shot.
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There is no need to keep puting the bar and chain on to solve this. Reassemble everything to no bar/chain or cover and the drum should spin fairly easily even with the oiler assembled correctly. If it does not spin easily listen or feel as best you can for any rubbing or scraping and reference where you are feeling it and it may lead you to the problem...ie shoes not retreating correctly will be rubbing on the outside of the drum.......missing spacers will be a rubbing felt through the outer face of the drum most likely near the rim sprocket assembly. I am not extremely familiar with the oiler system on this saw but incorrect engagement should be easily determined by this testing as well? Maybe someone could elaborate more as to how this being incorrect would feel...... and a shot in the dark.... how tight is the chain when this is happening?