Chainsaw Repair
Husqvarna - Stihl - Poulan - Jonsered - Dolmar chainsaws and more => Husqvarna => Topic started by: turbo885 on August 29, 2013, 09:25:12 am
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This is the nicest 2100 to ever come in my shop. It has had very little use,with an almost new 36" bar.
I bought it from the guy with the intension of putting it on a mill but it is too nice to beat up. I did have to tig the starter cover. I think we will play with it at the gtg this weekend then find it a new home
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Nice one.
Did you see that full wrap 2100 a member brought into my shop the other day. He stole that puppy.
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next to last post in this thread. http://chainsawrepair.createaforum.com/husqvarna/husqvarna-2100-1487/20/
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Well I was in the local gun shop and happen to be talking with a fellow shooter and found out he had a Husky 2100CD, that he used when in the tree cutting business but has now retired. So I went out to his place and picked this up for what I would say a good price. Pulled the muffler and the piston and cylinder are in very good shape. I looks like it needs the usual like fuel line, impulse line. oiler line, carb kit, and maybe new crank seals.
(http://chainsawrepair.createaforum.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=2184.0;attach=4057;image)
(http://chainsawrepair.createaforum.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=2184.0;attach=4059;image)
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What a find. You just never know what you are going to stumble upon when you are not looking for anything?
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What a find. You just never know what you are going to stumble upon when you are not looking for anything?
Yea you just never know. He had a Jonsered and a Husky 55 rancher also but they did not look as good as the 2100. I may go back at a later time for the Jonsered. It looked like a 670 but could not tell for shure because all the labels were missing and the tag was scratched where the model is suppose to be.
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Damn nice fine Roger! Definitely do the crank seals. Same seals as a 288 or 394/395. Don't risk that P/C with ancient seals that may test fine now...............only to fail suddenly some time after being put back into service. BTDT...
Bryce Stott on ebay has gaskets for these saws. Might as well grab one of the NOS gasket sets he has (listed for a 2101) as it has the hard to find, difficult to reproduce case gasket (and his price for the set is less than what you'd pay for the other gaskets individually). Kevin spotted the sets on ebay and clued me in as I was looking for a case gasket. I bought a set for my 2100CD. Put the case gasket aside for the future if you don't use it now (or sell it to me.........I'd like to have a spare/pattern for the future).
Molded fuel lines are still available from Husky, as well as being available from the aftermarket. Some guys replace these with a grommet and a piece of 'regular' black Husky fuel line.
These saws don't have impulse lines BTW. If it has the rubber tank vent assembly above the fuel cap and the vent is a leakin', then the best way to fix that is to put a second molded fuel line in the hole above the fuel cap where the vent assembly was (or use a grommet and a piece of 'regular' line) and then put a white Echo 'self contained' vent on the end of that line (outside the tank). It'll hang out next to the carburetor.
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Hey Aaron thanks for the info. What are the two lines for behind the muffler. I am thinking they must be for the oiler.
Oh and I thought I would let you guys know I paid 150.00 for the saw with a 32" bar and chain.
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Hey Aaron thanks for the info. What are the two lines for behind the muffler. I am thinking they must be for the oiler.
Oh and I thought I would let you guys know I paid 150.00 for the saw with a 32" bar and chain.
You got a screaming deal Roger. Those two lines are indeed for the oiler systems. One is the discharge line for the manual oiler (which is within the fuel/oil tank casting). The other feeds oil to the auto oiler pump. Auto oiler only saws in the series (380CD, 285CD, 298XP, 1100CD) only have one line.
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I was looking at the serial number and found the date to be 1984 that it was made.
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It takes the same seals as the 181 and 281 also .Relatively inexpensive nothing like those high priced Stihl OEM seals .On the flywheel side you'll need to "shoe spoon" the seal in because it sets in a retainer and the crank has a sharp shoulder with very little chamfer .I have a picture of it someplace if it will help .
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Well I fired up the 2100 today I could not resist. Wow talking about pulling that rope for everything your worth. The saw sounded great and did not have to touch the carb and it idled down nice and steady.
I have the seals and gasket set on order Aaron so I still plan on putting in the seals. Thanks.
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It takes the same seals as the 181 and 281 also .Relatively inexpensive nothing like those high priced Stihl OEM seals .On the flywheel side you'll need to "shoe spoon" the seal in because it sets in a retainer and the crank has a sharp shoulder with very little chamfer .I have a picture of it someplace if it will help .
If you can find a picture that would be helpful.
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I was looking at the serial number and found the date to be 1984 that it was made.
A 1984 tag would be interesting to see a picture of!
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OK.
(http://chainsawrepair.createaforum.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=2184.0;attach=4062;image)
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I don't know if this will help or not ,it's the clutch side .Note the step in the crank shaft .I use a thin plastic tube well greased up between the seal and the shaft to assure it gets over the step in the crank .On a deal like this it's very easy to roll the seal .I had pictures of the proceedure on a 281 but I can't find them .
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OK.
(http://chainsawrepair.createaforum.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=2184.0;attach=4062;image)
Thanks - I wanted to see if it said 1984 or if the number just started with a four! I'm trying to find out exactly when they started putting the numbers that is decodable to the week on the saws. ;)
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I don't know if this will help or not ,it's the clutch side .Note the step in the crank shaft .I use a thin plastic tube well greased up between the seal and the shaft to assure it gets over the step in the crank .On a deal like this it's very easy to roll the seal .I had pictures of the proceedure on a 281 but I can't find them .
For the step in the crank I just use a piece of aluminum from a soda can. Is that what you mean by shoe spoon.
Is that the seal located in the oil pump?
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Well I fired up the 2100 today I could not resist. Wow talking about pulling that rope for everything your worth. The saw sounded great and did not have to touch the carb and it idled down nice and steady.
I have the seals and gasket set on order Aaron so I still plan on putting in the seals. Thanks.
Bring it up against compression and give it a good pull. That sumbee will make your fingers hurt if it kicks back. I would grab one in a heart beat if it was that nice.
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This is the nicest 2100 to ever come in my shop. It has had very little use,with an almost new 36" bar.
I bought it from the guy with the intension of putting it on a mill but it is too nice to beat up. I did have to tig the starter cover. I think we will play with it at the gtg this weekend then find it a new home
That one is close to mint ;D - what is the serial number?
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Thanks - I wanted to see if it said 1984 or if the number just started with a four! I'm trying to find out exactly when they started putting the numbers that is decodable to the week on the saws. ;)
You know there is more than one system right?
Is is a year you are after you will not get it right very easily as they had models without system parallel those with.
Let me know what you come up with I help you test your theory.
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Yes, I know that very well.
I believe I can date most Huskys made 1985 and after to the week, with the possible exception of some "special series" ones, like Swedish Army saws (or saws for different agencies).
So far, all 1983 and 1984 saws that I have seen have had the full year on the tag, but I am not sure if that means all 1984 saws have it - actually I suspect the late ones may just have a 7 digit number starting with 4, but obviosly not this one....
I am generally not able to date a Husky saw made before 1983 - some times there seem to be a hint to the year in the "Assy" number, but I don't trust it......
Also, from earlier exchanges of posts, I know that you have (or had) a list of numbers that doesn't "fit in" - I always thought those were from "special series" saws.
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I doubt it is from "special series" as it is from normal users I got them from in most cases.
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As I said, I don't know for sure what's up with the "odd" serial numbers you have observed.
However, it surely tells me something that they have used the "datable" serial numbers as reference to changes made in production as long as that system has existed - both in Service Bulletins and IPLs.
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Couple little points on this model .First it has to be the most difficult saw ever made to pull over .High compression with a relatively small rope drum .A D-handle rope pull makes it tollerable .
It has a rather large bore Tillotson model HS carb and floods very easy .It took me a while to figure it out .On a cold start choke it until it fires once then release the choke and crank it until it starts which they usually do .If you stay on that choke too long and flood it you are in for a workout before it goes .
These things have some power .Before the 3120 Husqvarna these were the things they made hot saws out of .
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Couple little points on this model .First it has to be the most difficult saw ever made to pull over .High compression with a relatively small rope drum .A D-handle rope pull makes it tollerable .
It has a rather large bore Tillotson model HS carb and floods very easy .It took me a while to figure it out .On a cold start choke it until it fires once then release the choke and crank it until it starts which they usually do .If you stay on that choke too long and flood it you are in for a workout before it goes .
These things have some power .Before the 3120 Husqvarna these were the things they made hot saws out of .
Hot saws, that's cool. I am keeping it stock except the muffler.
I could hear something rattling around in the muffler and could see some loose metal in it but could not get it out through the exhaust port. So I cut a square out of the back of it and the whole baffle was broken free in pieces and rattling around. So I removed all the metal pieces blew it out with the air hose and then welded it back up. Weird.
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I guess some of them had a two piece muffler.Mine doesn't or else the baffles would be out of it already .
Yeah mine is going to stay stock also .It runs just fine the way it is .
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I guess some of them had a two piece muffler.Mine doesn't or else the baffles would be out of it already .
Yeah mine is going to stay stock also .It runs just fine the way it is .
My muffler was not two piece either that's why I cut a square out of the back. Weld it back up and you cannot see it.
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I dont usually buy these ...... :o...... ;D (not wanting to ruffle any feathers) ;D .
Anyhow looking at this one missing some parts. What you see is what I have seen only. Guessing cylinder cover, af cover, filter. Is there a filter box or anything else?
Known issues with these to ask about?
Your opinion of what one is worth to buy that looks like this (says runs great)? Do you think I could find the parts to finish easily?
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Looks like top cover, AF, and AF cover. There's no filter box. Top covers aren't too hard to find. Filters aren't either. A good AF cover is HARD to find nowadays. They were all broken or discarded.
Not many known issues. The o-rings around/under the manual oiler pump can leak. When that happens you get fuel in the bar oil tank. The stock fuel tank vent is a complicated piece with NLA parts. It is best replaced with a molded fuel line (they're still available for these........both OEM and aftermarket) with a white plastic Echo tank vent on the end of the line (in the carb box area). Look out for stripped screw holes, especially for the handlebar mounting screws (both on the bottom, and on the right side).
If it runs great and the P/C are good (I'd be worried about the intake side being 'dusted' if he's been running it without a filter) then it's worth a couple Franklins. Maybe a tad more. Pull the muffler and look at the P/C through the port at least. Rings are standard 56mm x 1.5mm. You can replace 'em with Cabers or with OEM 394XP rings. Crank bearings are standard 6203's. Crank seals are the same ones used on 181/281/288 and 394/395 Husqvarnas.
If you get that thing cheap enough and don't wanna keep it.............well then the dynamics of that trade we've been talking about may change a tad. 8)
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All the air filter covers that I have seen are really expensive. I have been looking for one myself.
There is a cylinder cover with the air filter cover on ebay for 150.00 right now.
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All the air filter covers that I have seen are really expensive. I have been looking for one myself.
There is a cylinder cover with the air filter cover on ebay for 150.00 right now.
That one's been listed on and off for a few months at least. There are a few more top covers on ebay right now. No more AF covers at the moment.
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1313.TR11.TRC1.A0.Xhusqvarna+2100+top&_nkw=husqvarna+2100+top&_sacat=0&_from=R40
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Cant open and look at. Would be buying unseen, going by word and that pic only. No other info.
No not that kind of cheap Aaron.
I did find a place to get a echo D176 36" for $70 shipped if I buy 2. Just waiting till after Christmas to look into it further. May just get a D009 and be done with it for $75 shipped.
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Cant open and look at. Would be buying unseen, going by word and that pic only. No other info.
No not that kind of cheap Aaron.
I did find a place to get a echo D176 36" for $70 shipped if I buy 2. Just waiting till after Christmas to look into it further. May just get a D009 and be done with it for $75 shipped.
I didn't mean that my end would totally cover the saw (not by a longshot....no matter how cheap you get it). Meant that the dynamics would change (meaning I'd be the one kicking in more). For starters; I also have a new 32" 3/8-.050G D009 bar.
That's a great deal for those D176 and D009 bars. Wouldja please PM me their info once you're done dealing with them?
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I dont usually buy these ...... :o...... ;D (not wanting to ruffle any feathers) ;D .
Anyhow looking at this one missing some parts. What you see is what I have seen only. Guessing cylinder cover, af cover, filter. Is there a filter box or anything else?
Known issues with these to ask about?
Your opinion of what one is worth to buy that looks like this (says runs great)? Do you think I could find the parts to finish easily?
Looks like top cover, AF, and AF cover. There's no filter box. Top covers aren't too hard to find. Filters aren't either. A good AF cover is HARD to find nowadays. They were all broken or discarded.
Not many known issues. The o-rings around/under the manual oiler pump can leak. When that happens you get fuel in the bar oil tank. The stock fuel tank vent is a complicated piece with NLA parts. It is best replaced with a molded fuel line (they're still available for these........both OEM and aftermarket) with a white plastic Echo tank vent on the end of the line (in the carb box area). Look out for stripped screw holes, especially for the handlebar mounting screws (both on the bottom, and on the right side).
If it runs great and the P/C are good (I'd be worried about the intake side being 'dusted' if he's been running it without a filter) then it's worth a couple Franklins. Maybe a tad more. Pull the muffler and look at the P/C through the port at least. Rings are standard 56mm x 1.5mm. You can replace 'em with Cabers or with OEM 394XP rings. Crank bearings are standard 6203's. Crank seals are the same ones used on 181/281/288 and 394/395 Husqvarnas.
If you get that thing cheap enough and don't wanna keep it.............well then the dynamics of that trade we've been talking about may change a tad. 8)
The guy finally got back to me :o ( I had forgot about it). Wants $197 to my door.
I do not want the saw now and it's up in Maine or NE area. So shipping is $$$
http://chainsawrepair.createaforum.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=2184.0;attach=4907;image
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Anyone check out the 2101xp on sc craigslist? I proly really shouldn't do it, but is it worth $300 PHO? His youtube video makes it look pretty sweet, don't know I can resist.
www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z2rH6KWnKzA&feature=c4-overview&list=UU4gy5qooGJFBWSqeZzpk3lQ
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That would be about typical .Choke it once then get off it .If you leave it choked say like most Stihls that thing will flood .It has a rather large Tillotson model HS carb that can move a lot of fuel .The one thing you don't want to do is tug on that thing for 20 minutes trying to start a flooded engine because it ain't no picnic for sure .
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I have a decent shape a/f cover for a 2100 I'd be willing to part with. No fading but it has the typical cracks coming up from the lower rear corners. Shoot me an offer.
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I don't own a 2100 yet that needs a filter cover, but i'm workin on it. ;D
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Either everyone is tryin to buy it, or it is not good deal, no comments either way?
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That's not a bad price on it. If you want or need it then what you waiting for ?:D
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It seems like the parts machines are bringing a premium right now. I got some other projects goin on, so I was trying to save some coin. Guess I might try em again
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I've been slowly working on gathering up parts to build one. What i've learned your better off to pay the money and get a nice running one. By the time I get through I'm gonna have more in it than I could have bought one for. Did get real nice cyl and af cover (no cracks and not faded) in one lot I bought.
Shep
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Shep, I agree, i prolly waited around to long on this, guy hasn't gotten back with me yet. I'll have a pretty nice poulan 8500 when im done, with I would of waited on that one also. Ordered the last of the parts this am, oh yeah i still need a b&c, cha ching! Still waitn to here if I need to pickup 1 of those case gaskets from you. Thanks again
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Tractor, JMO I would just put the dough in the 8500 85cc just over 16lb PHO . The 2100 being just over 20lbs PHO and 98cc. I am willing to bet the 8500 will do everything you need. Good running and tuned right 5200-8500 are strong in the cut.
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Kevin, your prolly right, & yes i done committed to the 8500, I agree, its not a boat anchor to lug around either. I've had several ops to pickup a 2100, only seen a few 8500's, so for me it'll be worth it in the long run, & yep for my size firewood cuttin I think it will be a nice addition.
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This reminds me...........last time I checked, air filters are still available for your 8500 (unlike the AF's for the 4200-5400 saws). Get a spare or two while you still can....