Chainsaw Repair
Husqvarna - Stihl - Poulan - Jonsered - Dolmar chainsaws and more => Husqvarna => Topic started by: man of stihl on April 09, 2011, 04:26:10 pm
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I just put a new piston and ring in this 55 for a buddy. First time i have ever ran a 55. I kinda like it! ;D Pretty light and good power to pull 3/8 chain. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BWCHyCnig6s
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sounds good and they definately have good lugging torque stock.
here is a 51 I had worked on.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w8ssj7CceKQ&feature=autoplay&list=ULFEF6iIdhq7Y&index=23&playnext=1
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HFCDdYpg9kU&feature=mfu_in_order&list=UL
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WOW. In the second video there is a HUGE difference in the two saws. Are you using 3/8 chain or 325?
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my saw is hauling 3/8's a muffler modded 51 is better off with .325 7 tooth IMO. Both are sharpened the same
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50cc class saws that have "enough power to pull 3/8" are still better off with .325, which takes less power. (and is far smoother) Aside from the common chain/file argument there's no reason to run 3/8 on saws until they approach 60cc.
Not sure how it got started, but it seems there are a lot of guys on these saw sites who think it's a cool thing to switch these saws to 3/8 and to go from 7 to 8 pin rims. Why not just hang 5 lbs of dead weight on the saw? If you're going to slow it down, why not weigh it down at the same time. ;D
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haha,
very comical spike! I like it, even on saws that have the stuffing to pull 3/8's if it is a limbing saw I find .325 nicer to limb with.
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Well said Spike! ;D
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Whats the weight difference between a 15" .325 Power Match and a 15" 3/8 Power Match bar? 1 ounce? Which one handles better? The 15" or the 15"? Its all a matter of what you run.
My new 261 runs a 15" 3/8 setup. Handles better than the 16" .325 setup. Cuts faster too.
I will agree with you guys that a 3/8 setup is too much for a 346 OE or NE. Save the 3/8 gear for Stihls. ;)
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The 55 husky came from the factory with a 3/8 chain, 20'' bar.
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Whats the weight difference between a 15" .325 Power Match and a 15" 3/8 Power Match bar? 1 ounce? Which one handles better? The 15" or the 15"? Its all a matter of what you run.
My new 261 runs a 15" 3/8 setup. Handles better than the 16" .325 setup. Cuts faster too.
I will agree with you guys that a 3/8 setup is too much for a 346 OE or NE. Save the 3/8 gear for Stihls. ;)
+1 ;D
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The 55 husky came from the factory with a 3/8 chain, 20'' bar.
so you bought a 20 inch chainsaw like they do at sears :D
d
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How'd we get these Stihl guys over here on the Husky forum? Where's my can of RAID?
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I just ordered a 13" narrow kerf .325 Husqvarna bars for my 338XPT. They 're laminated but my top handle with the limited cutting it gets will last just fine. My 346,372 and 395 are the wood pounders with their solid body bars. But will try the 13" nar kerf on the 346 for the heck of it seeing the 338 and 346 take the same rim and bar.
I have my 338 converted to .325 rim sprocket, now with this light .325 -13" and 20LPX chain the 338 will be an excellent aerial saw with a heavy duty fast cutting chisel chain. I muffler modded the 338 with a extra 9/16" exhaust outlet pipe and she really woke up. Will have to see if the WoodLandPro [Carlton] 20RC is lighter then the 20LPX seeing it doesn't have the safety ramp drive links that the Oregon has.
Part # for the 13" bar is 508 92 61-56. Will post some pics when it comes in.
Willard.
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How'd we get these Stihl guys over here on the Husky forum? Where's my can of RAID?
Easy there, I have a lifetime membership to any Husky forum. He is my photo ID.
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And here is my photo ID. ;D ;D
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I've sold so many I.D. cards here lately ;D.
This is the only one admittedly I could NOT run. Cliff Helsel built 3120xp hotsaw.
(http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g289/doemaster789/CH3120/CopyofCL3120003.jpg)
(http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g289/doemaster789/CH3120/CopyofCL3120002.jpg)
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How'd we get these Stihl guys over here on the Husky forum? Where's my can of RAID?
Easy there, I have a lifetime membership to any Husky forum. He is my photo ID.
very nice Art what a Svelte pair of Swedes. You probably have had your hands all over them! ;D
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My husky 55 air injection came from factory with a 16" .325-.058 husky bar. closed port with a decomp. I have heard all 55 ranchers came with 3/8's chains only. I think they were all open port saws.
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The 55 husky came from the factory with a 3/8 chain, 20'' bar.
That was the "Rancher" version, and it basically is a bad choise on that saw, if you want decent cutting speed........ ;D
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Hey ,now there's a good idea...........gottsta post your I.D. before entering :D
Here's mine (one of em' :P) The good ole "big block splitter"
Steve
(http://i1000.photobucket.com/albums/af128/dastevoe/Miscellaneous%20Junk/009.jpg)
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Another 55 that i bought with a burnt up top end. Too bad to fix so i installed a aftermarket top end.
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OK since I have not ran or worked on a 55 help me know more about them.
Here is what I have in memory (right or wrong). There was 55 and 55 rancher, what was the difference?
I have heard of open and closed port 55 saws.
What was the bore and stroke? 53cc or what cc?
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This 55 is the rancher. 53cc open port. 46mm piston. Kinda like the Partner 500 with a big bore. The other 55's are closed port, 51cc? 45mm piston. (better i hear but i have never saw one.) IMO these saws, Husky 50,51, 55. Partner 500,5000 series saws are the easiest saws to work on.
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53cc open port is the type 2 replacements for the poulan 325 53cc 46mm saws. I bet they are the husky 55 top ends. My poulan 325 is type 1 closed port 46mm like the 5000 plus cylinder with a piston that looks like the 026 piston with windows.
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This 55 is the rancher. 53cc open port. 46mm piston. Kinda like the Partner 500 with a big bore. The other 55's are closed port, 51cc? 45mm piston. (better i hear but i have never saw one.) IMO these saws, Husky 50,51, 55. Partner 500,5000 series saws are the easiest saws to work on.
The only difference in 55 Rancher and 55 AI is decomp. valve on the AI and Decal. I haven't had the pleasure of a closed port cyl. "One Day" maybe.
Shep
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The other 55's are closed port, 51cc? 45mm piston.
I wonder with it being 45mm closed port if it was the jonsered 590 top ends.
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Thats a good question. They only made them for a couple years. I bet Saw Troll or Spike can give us some answers. ;)
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New guy here and I can help shed a little light on the closed port discussion. The closed port top ends were available 1998-2000 on the Husqvarna 55's that were marked with only "air injection", none of the Ranchers came with it. The closed port top ends are still available new as part number 503 97 18-71 but they run in the neighborhood of $200-$250, which I guess is not to bad for a new OEM top end. I do know that the Jonsered 590 top end is a direct bolt on for the Husqvarna 50/51/55 chainsaws but I can not say if they had the same part numbers. There was one of the saws that had a 44mm closed port bore that is claimed to be the best of them all because of the combustion chamber design, I believe it was from the Jonsered 490. There are several other bolt on options for this series saw as well, some are open port and some are closed port.
I have also heard the story about the older 50's having a different cylinder bolt pattern, though I have never seen it myself and I have messed with them as old as 1983. The only issue I have ever ran into is the opening in the case is slightly smaller in the 50's made prior to 1987, though the service bulletin states that the the change date was 1989. I was able to install a 46mm top end on a 87 model with no modifications but I had to do some grinding on a 85 model. This issue can be quickly overcome with 15-20 minutes work with a dremel tool, you have to either make the opening larger or the "cylinder lips" thinner.
For the folks that have never seen the internal differences between the closed and open port cylinders. These pictures are from a model 51 that I installed a closed port cylinder on.
(http://i647.photobucket.com/albums/uu193/Roanoker494/Rebuilt%2051%20CP/100_1909.jpg)
(http://i647.photobucket.com/albums/uu193/Roanoker494/Rebuilt%2051%20CP/100_1914.jpg)
Open Port piston, "full circle" style
(http://i647.photobucket.com/albums/uu193/Roanoker494/Rebuilt%2051%20CP/100_1907.jpg)
Closed port piston, factory windowed
(http://i647.photobucket.com/albums/uu193/Roanoker494/Rebuilt%2051%20CP/100_1910.jpg)
There is a way to tell the cylinders apart from the outside as well. Look at the cylinder fins down the right side. The closed port is only missing the bottom three fins where the open port is missing all but the top three.
(http://im1per.shutterfly.com/procrserv?ci=47a1df11b3127ccefc68acf29cdd00000030101IZt27Jm4Zg9vPhg&si=00308032077320110130124730309.JPG&jstime=1296392916469&r=0&ph=59850&rx=304&ry=304&retall=1)
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Thanks for all the good info Roanoker and welcome! :)
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Welcome and Thanks for sharing your info.
The closed port piston looks like the jonsered 590 piston I had. The cylinder closed port one looks like others I have seen posted for a 590. But if you look at my closed port jred 590 cylinder it was different in thread of 590. So maybe somewhere along the line they changed where they all wore the same.
Just like the replacement cylinder for poulan 325 type 2 is the husky 55 open port 46mm.
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Whats the difference in the type 1 and type 2 55 mufflers. From what I can tell type 1 has 2 slits to exit exhaust and type 2 has the deflector on right side.
Which is the better flowing muffler, being I cant see how the insides are baffled.
Husqvarna 51 55 IPL http://s30387.gridserver.com/partsDiagrams/Husqvarna%2051%20and%2055.pdf
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Whats the difference in the type 1 and type 2 55 mufflers. From what I can tell type 1 has 2 slits to exit exhaust and type 2 has the deflector on right side.
Which is the better flowing muffler, being I cant see how the insides are baffled.
Husqvarna 51 55 IPL http://s30387.gridserver.com/partsDiagrams/Husqvarna%2051%20and%2055.pdf
I can post pictures of the inside of my muffler when I get home tonight, mine has the deflector. The inside it actually very simple. It is basically a open box with a baffle over the exit port that has four small holes in it, think of it like a small piece of angle iron. There is also a baffle, or more like a flap of steel, under the deflector. When I modded my muffler I drilled the holes in the baffle out and removed the flap completely. I have been inside the other style muffler but I can not remember exactly what it looks like.
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Here is the style I have.
(http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e331/bribiguy1/IMG_2001a.jpg)
(http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e331/bribiguy1/IMG_2002a.jpg)
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Here is the style I have.
That is the same muffler I have on my 51.
Here is a shot of the "flap" under the deflector
(http://i647.photobucket.com/albums/uu193/Roanoker494/Rebuilt%2051%20CP/100_1928.jpg)
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Thanks for the pics etc. I went ahead and got a used one with the deflector on the top right side.
I still wonder what is inside the one with 2 slits on lower right side.
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I was thinking of a husky 288 deflector on the left side for a muffler mod. Has anyone tried this on the 55 and is there anything in the way of a deflector sticking out on the left side. I dont have a muffler to test fit at the time.
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Thanks for the pics etc. I went ahead and got a used one with the deflector on the top right side.
I still wonder what is inside the one with 2 slits on lower right side.
The other style has a large flat plate baffle inside, I will have to try to find some pictures for ya.
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I was thinking of a husky 288 deflector on the left side for a muffler mod. Has anyone tried this on the 55 and is there anything in the way of a deflector sticking out on the left side. I dont have a muffler to test fit at the time.
By left side do you mean the clutch or recoil side? I run into this question a lot because the left side is the recoil if you are behind the saw and that is the right side if you are in front of the saw. On the recoil side you will find that the top cover will be in the way. On the clutch side the only problem would be the chain brake handle, but the factory outlet is already on that side. Best bet would be the front of the muffler but the support bracket cover the most of that, sometimes all if it depending on which bracket you have. Persoanlly I would make sure the outlet is opened up to the full size of the deflector, the inlet is opened up to match the cylinder outlet, drill the holes out in the baffle and let er ride.
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I call left just like a car. Front being bar tip, rear handle being rear. So as I hold in my hands recoil side is left to me.
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I have yet to run a 55 open or closed port. What I am wondering is how will this 55 46mm afm topend open port is going to compare to other saws in it's class.
I'm going to start with 7T and 3/8 same chain to run a test to compare it to a Partner 550 , Poulan pro 325 46mm type 1 closed port , Poulan 3450 46.5mm open port , Stihl 028 super 52cc stock oem domed piston.
So anyone have any info on those saws comparing to 55?
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I call left just like a car. Front being bar tip, rear handle being rear. So as I hold in my hands recoil side is left to me.
That is the same way I view it, but unfortunately not everyone knows that is the "correct" way to say it. I was a ASE Master certified mechanic for 5 years and I learned to always ask if they meant passengers or drivers side.
This is from a IPL and shows the inside of the other type muffler, can't find any actual pictures just yet.
(http://www.partstree.com/parts/dispdiagimg.php?src=r&ilFN=D%3A%5CEMPARTweb_52%5CCatalog+Data%5CEMP_IMG%5CHUS%5CImages%5C04%5C21%5C0015.TIF&ilSC=10&ilIV=0&ilBR=0&ilIF=G&ilRE=8&ilSH=0&ilEG=0&ilRO=0&ilSC=34)
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Muffler came in. No flap under deflector as in above pic and deflector is made onto housing. Does not unbolt on this one.
I just pulled apart and drilled the inner outlet holes out to 5/16". Cut spark screen off and bolted just the metal tang back on.
Tested with 3/8 stihl RSC and it runs just like I was thinking with 46mm open port. I like.
Thanks for the info and help on this new to me saw.
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55 is a good mid range saw got 10-12 (all open port unfortunately). I like em. Better saw than it's replacement the 455 "tank" I have one. Pulls a 20" OK that's what every body around here wants. Hey man what you got in a 20". I like a 16" on mine. Had a closed a while back unfortunately something came loose and cut up the cyl. If I remember it was rod bearing. This was the most worn out saw ever in my posession. Don't think I even saved the case too cut up around the chain catcher. Usually do MM and install decomp on 55 Rancher model. Got one I'm doing a little work on 65-70% intake and ex. open up the transfers a little gonna experiment with shape.
Shep
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Pulls a 20" OK that's what every body around here wants. Hey man what you got in a 20". I like a 16" on mine.
Shep
I have some 20" but I like 16" on these size saws.
What are you asking on the 20" brand, 325 3/8 etc?
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Hey man what you got in a 20".
I think he's poking fun at the "locals" ?
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Hey man what you got in a 20".
I think he's poking fun at the "locals" ?
LMAO now.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=acI12jO0HSQ
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Hey man what you got in a 20".
I think he's poking fun at the "locals" ?
Steve is right I was poking fun. On .325 vs 3/8" I usually use 3/8" chain on 55.
Steve, posting some pic's of 55 OP transfer work. Work is someone elses don't remember who did it. I saved pic's for ideas on what to do.
Shep