Chainsaw Repair
Husqvarna - Stihl - Poulan - Jonsered - Dolmar chainsaws and more => Husqvarna => Topic started by: alsled on November 04, 2013, 06:59:24 pm
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Got a 365 and the cable is fine, the throttle lever is sticking at 1/3 throtle
How do you get the linkage apart in the handle without spliting the case, I don't want to screw it up more.
Thanks,
Al
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Here's the Workshop Manual for the trigger
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Looks like putting a new top end on the thing is easier then the throtlle. Looks like it does not have to be split in two?
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It is frustrating the first time to say the least.
To get to the trigger, IIRC, after you drive the pivot pin out, you have to push the operator presence to the right and work it up out of the slot.
It might be easier to unhook the throttle cable from the throttle arm first before messing with the trigger? To hold the throttle wide open, it is easy to connect the carb end of the cable back around the plastic thing.
After about 10 tries, you'll get the hang of it?
Putting it back together, the top leaver spring is a confusing thing.
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Thanks, 660
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Make sure the "casing" for the throttle cable is slid in to it's socket and bottomed out......Failing that, I've had times that I had to trim a bit off the casing to get the throttle to return fully to idle.
Make sure the carb returns to idle without the cable attached first.
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Make sure the "casing" for the throttle cable is slid in to it's socket and bottomed out......Failing that, I've had times that I had to trim a bit off the casing to get the throttle to return fully to idle.
Make sure the carb returns to idle without the cable attached first.
I used to do road bicycles when I was younger and this was very important about the sheath length and its position in the sockets.
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I didn't take it apart yet but I believe there is something worn out in the assembly, I only get 7/8 throttle opening and have to squeeze the hell out of it to get wide open throttle. I'll dig into it again tonight.
Whats the best place to order the parts from?
Thanks again!
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sounds like the cable is off the back of the trigger assembly?
Take the covers from the saw so you can get a better view down into that part of the handle?
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I have all the covers off And carb off already. I pulled the one pin on the handle last night. I didn't want to start yanki g on things till I got some idea of how to take it apart. The throttle feels very sloppy in the handle. Ill get into tonight if I can. See what's going on in there.
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Keep us informed.
One of the pivot pins for the trigger may be broken? Inspect the top lever and trigger closely for worn or broken parts.
I replaced a top lever with a Forester item and had to do a lot of filing and sanding too get it to work properly.
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The throttle lever is screwed up, it has a bent tab from a probable in proper install, and the the cable has a slight stiff spot, but the throttle assembly is the definate cause of the hanging up issue.
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http://store.chainsawr.com/collections/husqvarna/throttle-trigger
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-HUSQVARNA-365-371-372-TRIGGER-PN-503-82-96-/190612470056
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Yahoo, after 7 tries, and saying mother F'?? 20 times I got it together, works nice and smooth now.
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That's my experience too. I forgot to use the magic words though?
I had it together a half dozen times before getting the new Forester top lever filed down enough to where the relationship between the top lever blocked and released the trigger correctly.
I had the tank removed from the saw as I was changing tanks also.
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Keeping the spring on the lever then getting the safety in there was my grief, lol
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Yes, you need four hands
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problem 2, the tank vent leaks, tip the saw on the side and fuel comes out the vent how do I get the tank vent out without destroying anything?
Problem 3, Is it common for the clutch springs to get weak on the 365? I barely have it idling and the chain is creeping, What do most people do, new springy things or a whole new clutch assembly?
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Tank vent:
The vent is installed from the outside, it is a press fit. It is removed from inside the tank using a pair of long nose pliers or curved forceps or a nut driver.
It looks like this:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-HUSQVARNA-FUEL-TANK-VENT-FITS-362-3120-372XP-385-394-51-55-501873101-L-K-/150935211729?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2324708ed1
The little white puck is installed in the large end of the vent prior to installation the the vent.
Drain the fuel from the tank, remove the cap, remove the top handle to cylinder bolt, remove the travel limiter screw, and remove the left side AV screw. Tilt the tank away from the crankcase. Reach inside the tank with your tool and grab the vent body and push.
Install the new vent from the outside and press it home, put the saw back together, you are done.
Yes the springs can wear, make sure the clutch drum is installed correctly, there are two notches in the rim that engage the oil pump drive, if not installed correct the chain will move. The springs are available but I will throw you a complete clutch in the box with other parts I will also include a new tank vent. You need a tool to remove the clutch because there are no flats on it for a wrench and it is reverse thread!
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Wow, Thanks!!!!
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In case your vent doesn't look like the one in the link?
Around 2009, Husqvarna modified the outside of the vent with a elbow and flexible tube that goes up though the air box floor into a loop and the end fastens to a spud inside the air box.
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I can't see the vent from inside this tank, there is a long solid orange tube that seems to be part of the tank, that the vent would be in. Thats why I'm a little confused on how to get the vent out, This part only has a 1/4 gap between it and another part of the tank, so I can't see inside it.
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You are going to have to look at the outside rear right of the tank under the crankcase to see if the vent is actually there. Or you could shine a bright light at the right rear and look inside the tank if yo can see the light through the vent location then the vent is NOT there. Or the next time you are here bring it along and I will check it out. Besides I have the appropriate tools here.
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heres a pic
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That is the more common original style vent with the little white filter in it.
You can see the fuel line just beyond it.
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Cool, where do I find that bugger, and how does it come out.
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To look through the gas cap hole inside the tank (up in the top of the tank) You should be able to see the other end of the vent as a black plastic tube.
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No black thingy in the tank, Just a solid orange tube thats part of the tank.
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Are you sure the fuel is leaking out the vent? Now that you can see the vent and the fuel line, put a little fuel in the tank and look to see where it is coming out. It could be coming from the fuel line where it exits the tank.
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Its coming out the vent trust me, been fixing things ( probably more like breaking lol ) since I was 8 years old and check things out very well. ;) This is why I was asking how to get the sucker out, its not visible from inside the tank. Could this be a hong kong tank?
I had some gas in it yesterday, tipped it on its side and was coming out the vent, also disconnected the fuel line from carb and blew into the fuel line, with gas cap on, the slightest pressure and fuel comes out the vent.
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I'm assuming the tank vent has a one way check valve in it, I never had one to look at?
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Got the clutch off after 35 minutes of tool making
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The vent is in there, look at the pics. No it is NOT Chinese it is OEM! Remember the big curved forceps I showed you, they will reach inside the tank and up to where the vent is and you can grab it and push it out.
Here is where to get them $8
http://northwoodsaw.com/store/index.php?l=product_detail&p=1926
Cheers
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Since you can't seem to find it and you are going to replace it anyway here is another way to get it out.
Find a #6 or 8 drywall screw
Center it on the little white dot in the middle of the vent
Gently screw it in a couple turns an pull with a pair of needle nose pliers
The little white disk will come out
Take the disk off the screw and screw it in again a couple of turns pull gently and the whole vent body will come out.
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Good idea. I was going to try a easy out later.
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Cool, give me a call later to let me know how you did with it.
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Got to run this saw today a little bit, this does have the BB kit on it.
Problem 4 now, Chain brake is a hair trigger, my glove touches it and the bar locks up.
Problem 5, the thing is leaking oil someplace, or for some reason oil is coming out of it when just sitting.
Problem 6, there is a fuel issue. I can adjust the saw so its just a tad rich at idle, adjust so its rich at wot no load, put the saw into a 20 '' log and halfway through it falls on its face, pump the throtlle a few times and its rich again at idle and rich at wot no load. there is a new fuel tank vent on it, but the bugger still has a issue some place. Pin hole in line? What about a weak fuel pump?
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Al, check the pulse tube, it runs from a pipe on the right side of the cylinder through the rubber boot and up to the carb. It should be 3x5mm black rubber tubing. If you can pull it off with your fingers it needs to be replaced. They can leak air and not pull enough fuel.
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Looks like the saw needs a little going over?
4. The brake mechanism under the chain cover has worn or missing parts?
5. Oil pump rebuild
6. Fuel system needs inspection. Filter, line, vent, impulse line, carb boot, and carb rebuild?
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I'll look at that Tim, thanks.
660,, Yup
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Well I found the problem as far as it dieing, it was full of crap, the screen was plugged.
Still have a problem though, The idle screw has to be turned in almost all the way, then it needs 3 turns out on low speed screw to idle right, and I can turn the hi speed screw in all the way and it runs fine wot. I sprayed some carb cleaner around the carb and the saw dies instantly.
Ends up its sucking air from the throttle shaft and carb bore, shat is fine, bore seems bad, there is about .015 play in the shaft and bore. So now to hunt up a different carb.
Any one got a good one?
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You can get an aftermarket one from HLS for $30. I may have a used one around here if you want to come get it. I may also have a new AM one here as well.
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Whats a AM one?
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After market not a Walbro
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DO NOT THROW THE OLD CARB OUT!!
The little white bell crank for the throttle cable is NOT a Walbro part and does not come with the carb. It is a Husqvarna part and you will need to transfer it to the new carb.
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I never throw anything out, goes in the spare parts bucket. : )
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Plus it has a new rebuild kit in it that I have to take out.
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Alan, did the new carb cure your problems?
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Ice storm hit here, been busy putting wires back up, along with fixing blown up snowblowers.
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https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=632477750147068&set=pcb.632477980147045&type=1&theater
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Put the new carb on, words can't explain!!! Runs great and spins some rpm for sure with the BB kit and 064 piston. I'd like to do a side by side against my stock 390 engine with just a dual port muffler.