Chainsaw Repair
Husqvarna - Stihl - Poulan - Jonsered - Dolmar chainsaws and more => Stihl => Topic started by: NHRA1877 on November 13, 2013, 07:39:18 pm
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I have used friends chainsaws for years and have a small home owners model stihl 170, but finally needed my own saw and after looking around my friend had a used MS-290 farmboss with a scored cyl. The saw ran ok but failed the pull chain compression test and since I got the saw for 60$ I decided to do a rebuild on it. I am quite mechanically inclined but never on 2-stroke stuff so this is a new venture for me.
I ordered a used but good stihl 029 cylinder and piston for 75$ off eBay, got new OEM crank seals, oem impulse tube and fuel line, oem muffler and got a new set of caber piston rings. My friend works as the mechanic at a stihl dealer and has done many cyl swaps so he is going to help walk me through it.
Questions I have are since I have the thing apart I would like to replace the crank bearings but don't wanna pay 50$ for oem ones. Are there any good aftermarket ones that are cheaper? I see a lot on eBay that are cheap but don't wanna put all the money into the saw only to have it ruined by junk bearings. Are the eBay ones junk or do they last?
I read about tuning the saw and my friend does it by ear but I bought a 16 dollar tach on amazon to try to get it tuned perfectly. Where can I find the correct rpm for the saw with a 20inch bar?
Also I would like to do a muffler mod but once again don't want to risk hurting the saw after I put money into it. Is there any negative effects to the MM and is it worth it? Would love advice on doing it on my 290 if anyone has any.
And lastly, will the MM change the rpm I should tune the saw to?
Thanks a TON and if anyone has any resources I should look into I would greatly appreciate anything
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Your bearings should be #6202, that can be found at most bearing supply stores. Just take an old one with you so they can match it up. I would stay away from the ones on eBay unless they are skf or better. If you do a mm you are going to have to richen the high speed. I think you will notice the difference. I want to say that your idle should be around 2,800rpm and your high speed around 13,500. I will check tomorrow and make sure.
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029 is smaller bore then 029 super / MS290
Muffler mod on 290 takes about 30mins. Seen as much as 23% quicker cuts with MM and carb retune. Pics in other stihl 290 310 390 threads
Read on Tachs http://chainsawrepair.createaforum.com/ported-saws/chainsaw-tachometer-choices/
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Got the cyl today and it looks great, the piston measures 45.89 mm is that the smaller or the larger bore?
I have been looking around the site but haven't found a specific thread for a MM on the 290
The tach I got is a tiny tach cst with a .5 second refresh rate
Thanks guys any info you can provide helps me greatly!!
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Got the cyl today and it looks great, the piston measures 45.89 mm is that the smaller or the larger bore?
I have been looking around the site but haven't found a specific thread for a MM on the 290
The tach I got is a tiny tach cst with a .5 second refresh rate
Thanks guys any info you can provide helps me greatly!!
Good on the tach.
mm http://chainsawrepair.createaforum.com/stihl/stihl-ms390/msg3208/#msg3208
mm bolts http://chainsawrepair.createaforum.com/stihl/muffler-bolts-290-310-390-250-etc/msg8446/#msg8446
stihl 029 45mm bore 54.1cc
stihl 029 super ms290 46mm bore 56.5cc
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So I would assume I got a 029 super cy? 45.89 sounds leave .11 piston to walk clearance which makes sense on a 46mm cyl
Also, so I think I got the muffler mod figured out, simply drill a half inch hole in the dimple part of the muffler and were good to go?
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Measure your piston front to back at the bottom of the skirt.
I wouldn't tune over 13000 RPM.
Look for C3 rated bearings.
That's one of the ways to open the muffler. Cut the deflector back to the first bend.
Pull the carb limiters and tune appropriately. ( I seem to add about 1/2 turn on the H )
Have fun!
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So while I'm waiting for the rest of the parts, to pull the limiters out, I take the stock adjustment screws (red cap that you normally turn?) and back them all the way out till they come out, I will see some form of nub, I cut that with a razor blade completely off. I then screw the screws back in?
Once the screws are all the way back in, for the high low and idle, how many turns on each for a safe start up with a muffler mod?
Also Included pics of my muff mod, comments and advice is welcome!!!
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Never mind the photos are too big I guess
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Put the photos on Photo Bucket and link them here with the "img" code. They will automatically be resized perfect.
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I seen your pics on AS. Looks good. I tried to open pics there but they kept getting hung up. I could see them in the thumbnails.
Your file size was over 1MB per photo is why. Here 400Kb or smaller to use software here.
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... to pull the limiters out, I take the stock adjustment screws (red cap that you normally turn?) and back them all the way out till they come out, I will see some form of nub, I cut that with a razor blade completely off. I then screw the screws back in?
Once the screws are all the way back in, for the high low and idle, how many turns on each for a safe start up with a muffler mod?
Turn the adjustment screws all the way counterclockwise lining up nub and slot. Take a drywall screw (or the proper removal tool if your buddy has one) and pull the limiter caps out. Trim the nubs and reinstall. Turn gently clockwise till the screws seat. Turn the L screw 1 1/2 turns CCW, turn the H screw 2 turns CCW. Should be a good starting point.
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