Chainsaw Repair
Husqvarna - Stihl - Poulan - Jonsered - Dolmar chainsaws and more => Husqvarna => Topic started by: KilliansRedLeo on January 27, 2014, 02:12:27 pm
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I trust Jacob J but have never had any knowledge of it, what say the rest of you? Following is a quote by Jacob J on Sawhawgz.
You don't need the O-ring in there. Husky's engineers later found out that the O-ring hardens with exposure to fuel and heat and becomes useless after a short while. The bushing seals fine to the crank because a film of oil between the two is maintained. You can put the o-ring in there if you want, but it's not going to hurt anything if you don't have it. Just apply a dab of grease to that area of the crank where the bushing rides while you're putting it on.
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Either way. I used them because I had them. Ran without and seen no difference.
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I would trust JJ as well, but I've never seen an o-ring on the Huskies.....The 044 Stihls had one and later.decided it wasn't needed.
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It is easy to miss sits right against the clutch side bearing. ID the size of the clutch side half shaft, thickness about that of a c$%t hair! Most that I see crumble when you touch them, lends credence to what Jacob J said. However it is still shown on the most current IPLs for the XP, X-torq and EPA saws as part number 503 26 30-19!
Anyway perhaps William Green or spike60 can get a line on the SB if there is one!
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Chances are there would never be a problem without the o ring, But never trust a little bit of grease to make a seal.
Polaris uses a similar setup in the chain case on their snowmobiles, o ring on the shaft. One day it was leaking on me after a rebuild, I pinched the o ring, and simple gravity let oil leak out, no pressure or vacuum involved here either.
Even a dried out o ring will still make a seal when wedged in there, it just comes out in pieces like mine did on the 372 that Tim has right now for his tutorial on crank bearing changes.
Id like the o ring in my bottom end, just tell me what the o ring costs, I don't cut corners on many things!! The possibility of sucking air into a bottom end doesn't sound like its worth the chance to omit the o ring.
:)
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http://www.partstree.com/parts/?lc=husqvarna&mn=372+%282011-05%29&dn=6587_0012
Husqvarna 503263019
O-RING $1.57
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Given they are still on the IPL, I will continue to use them! On your saw too alsled!
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Thanks.
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Given they are still on the IPL, I will continue to use them! On your saw too alsled!
Exactly. There is no service bulletin from "husky's engineers" either. If they found it was no longer needed, then why are they still using them?
Gotta be careful when quoting things like this because as we move down the line we lose tract of who's being quoted. Is the first post quoting husky's engineers or JJ?
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That was a post by Jacob J on SawHawgz, go here page 2
http://sawhawgz.com/showthread.php/2260-I-don-t-think-this-is-a-372XP
Post #17
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When I rebuild my 371 never noticed that o ring. I put it together and have no air leaks. Wish I would have know about it then so I could have put it together with all the parts. I agree if it is called for in the IPL it should be used.
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They are REALLY easy to miss! They basically are hidden in the chamfer on the ID of the inner race of the clutch side bearing. If you do not know the o-ring is there; have a dental pick to get them out, they are usually destroyed when you push the crank through the bearing during disassembly.
Given the 2$ price it is stupid not to continue to use them. I have worked with HVA products for over 45 years and have never seen the factory put anything into the design of their products that did not; make it work better; last longer or in the long run cost less!
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I agree with that, never saw it when I disassembled it or any remains of if. I do know now if I have an air leak on the clutch side to get the seal and the little o ring. Guess when I looked up the part for the saw only looked and the crankcase IPL and not the crankshaft IPL. Get my bearings from a bearing place so no need for there part numbers. So it was my mistake on not looking any farther in to it. I feel the o ring is to seal the area between the crank and bushing that goes threw the seal.
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If anyone is interested this is how the thing actually works:
1) the O-Ring part# 503 26 30-19 goes over the clutch side half shaft and rests up against the inner race of the clutch side bearing. Prior to the seal being installed
2) The seal part# 503 26 03-01 is then installed
3) Then the pump drive bushing part# 503 77 91-01 large side down so that it touches the o-ring
4) then the large flat washer part# 503 23 00-59 the object of the flat washer is to keep the pump drive from eating up the seal.
If your washer is stuck to the pump drive that is from heat it should not be that way.
Also the pump drive should not be a force fit on the bushing the pump drive should turn freely on the bushing. And the crankshaft should rotate inside the bushing without the bushing rotating.
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+1