Chainsaw Repair

Husqvarna - Stihl - Poulan - Jonsered - Dolmar chainsaws and more => Stihl => Topic started by: BSW on February 16, 2014, 08:11:06 am

Title: Broken Bar Stud 039
Post by: BSW on February 16, 2014, 08:11:06 am
Have a rear broken bar stud on a 039 and the repair shop told me he has little success getting them turned out because they are installed into plastic with lock tight. He's probabley more interested in selling me a new saw but I don't see that much of a issue with drilling and using an ez out on it but concerned with the threads. Any thoughts or advice! Bryan
Title: Re: Broken Bar Stud 039
Post by: Fish on February 16, 2014, 10:56:12 am
He is wrong, the rear bar stud is threaded into the metal bottom engine pan.
Title: Re: Broken Bar Stud 039
Post by: Fish on February 16, 2014, 11:00:36 am
Yes, the older saws, they really used some serious Loctite, would probably just be easier to remove the block, and get a good used engine pan, most of the guys here probably have a bunch laying around they would part with.
Title: Re: Broken Bar Stud 039
Post by: jmester on February 16, 2014, 12:55:08 pm
I have a couple of engine pans around if you are interested in one. where did the stud break flush at the engine pan or is there still some sticking out of the case?
Title: Re: Broken Bar Stud 039
Post by: BSW on February 16, 2014, 07:22:33 pm
Flush with the engine pan.
Title: Re: Broken Bar Stud 039
Post by: jmester on February 16, 2014, 07:31:09 pm
If you pull the motor out you can try and drill it and use an easy out. If you go that route when you are ready to use the easy out apply some heat to the area where the studs is to help release the loc tite. If that does not work out for you. Let me know I have a used engine pan I would be willing to get rid of. If you are interested in the pan pm me. May save you a bunch of time to just replace the pan as fish stated earlier.
Title: Re: Broken Bar Stud 039
Post by: BSW on February 16, 2014, 07:34:38 pm
Bought the saw in 1990 and have used it with no major breakdowns and have replaced the chain drive sprocket 4 times and countless chains and a couple of bars over the years. Jump the gun and bought a new one but am not replacing the 039 it's still has a lot of miles left! But not gonna rest until it's fixed. U can't have to many saws can u!?
Title: Re: Broken Bar Stud 039
Post by: BSW on February 16, 2014, 07:42:51 pm
Should I disassemble the saw or try and drill  and use an ez out like it is?
Title: Re: Broken Bar Stud 039
Post by: mountainlake on February 17, 2014, 05:31:08 am
 
 If screwed into metal a little heat makes those loctited  bolts come out easy. Steve
Title: Re: Broken Bar Stud 039
Post by: BSW on February 17, 2014, 07:44:25 am
I'm gonna try and extract it and will let u know how it goes, thanks for the info guys and jmester I my have to hit u up on a engine pan depending how it goes! Thanks Again Bryan
Title: Re: Broken Bar Stud 039
Post by: Fish on February 17, 2014, 09:02:28 am
Problem with trying to heat it, is that it is on the other side of the crankcase..
Title: Re: Broken Bar Stud 039
Post by: bustedknuckles on February 23, 2014, 04:08:33 am
If it's broken flush with the pan, just disassemble the saw. Less chance of collateral damage that way. I use ice cube tray to put the parts in as I take it apart to I can work backwards when assembling. You will have over 100 parts and pieces on the bench by the time you get the engine out so some method of organization is important if you don't have a photographic memory.

If you use heat to get the stud out, you'll probably want to reseal the pan to the cylinder.