Chainsaw Repair
Husqvarna - Stihl - Poulan - Jonsered - Dolmar chainsaws and more => Stihl => Topic started by: dvcochran on March 16, 2014, 11:29:44 am
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Hello,
Thanks to this site and everyone who replies. I have a 009L that I do not use very much. Recently I had/have 26 trees to either cut up or cut down after the two ice storms we had in middle TN this winter. I have two other bigger saws but I like this little saw for trimming and topping. Long story short, I had to replace all the fuel lines and filter, the reed valve, the carburetor (rebuilding didn't help), cleaned the return filter, and cleaned the muffler to get it running right. I still have two small problems. It idles just a little too low even with the idle screw turned all the way in. The screw seat is still not touching arm of the carburetor even turned all the way in. It is a new factory carb. I had to play with the low idle screw to get it to idle at all. Anyone ever seen this? The second issue; after adjusting the carburetor the saw cuts good, but if making a long cut into what I would call a larger piece of wood for this size saw, it will bog down and you have to feather the throttle to get it to come back to full power. I have adjusted the high screw every way I can but cannot get this out. After putting on the new carburetor I feel pretty sure the main problem was the reed valve because I put the old carburetor on just to see and could get it to run pretty good.
Thanks,
David Cochran
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The reed valve is a Stihl part and the carb is made by Zama or Walbro
Can you try the old reed valve with the new carb?
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What are the numbers on your carb should be C1S-S1C zama. If the throttle shaft lever is not touching the screw there is a problem somewhere else with the linkage or maybe the throttle plate is hanging up and not closing all the way I would get to the bottom of that first. My guess is that your low speed is out of adjustment and not providing enough fuel at the wide open.
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You are correct; it is the Zama C1 carb. It is a pain to get everything assembled back correctly and I have not thought about the linkage arm from the trigger to the carb being misshapen so I will check that out. FYI, I did replace the gasket above and below the reed valve. I tossed the old reed valve so I cannot try it with the new carb. It is also a factory part and it definitely made a difference in how it runs so I am inclined to think it is good. In mention of the low speed adjustment, are you saying it can make a difference in how the saw will run at WOT under a load? I actually took it to my local Stihl dealer and had them adjust it but when I got it back it would not run at all under a load. It would idle and would open up without a load but once you put it into wood it would die. I kept tinkering until I got it where it is now. It is very usable but it would be nice to get it 100% and to be certain I am not running too lean or something. If you are very familiar with these saws, does it matter how the fuel line to the carb is ran, above or below the linkage, as long as it isn't in the way of anything? Just a thought.
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Yes the low speed fuel circuit provides fuel at wot. And a change in the low speed circuit will affect the fuel volume over the high speed as well. For example if you lean out the low speed then the whole fuel/air mixture will be leaner on the high and low speed. I would start and make sure the throttle lever is closing all the way to the screw. Have seen carbs new from the box the either the throttle or choke plate was not installed correctly and the plates would not seal in the bore of the carb. Had to loosen the screws and turn the plates to get them seated properly. Your basic carb setting should be 1 full turn out from a seated position. On both the high and low speed screws the idle screw I have found that 2.5 turns out from all the way in is a good place to start. You may also what to go with 1.25 turns out on the high and low speed it should be a fairly rich setting but should get you going.
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Just because you take something to a dealer does not mean it is going to be right when you get it back. If I were to take a saw to a dealer again I would run the saw before I left, to make sure that it is operating correctly.