Chainsaw Repair
Husqvarna - Stihl - Poulan - Jonsered - Dolmar chainsaws and more => Husqvarna => Topic started by: jrbarba on April 04, 2014, 04:19:38 pm
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Hey All – My neighbor has a Husqvarna Special 50 that quit starting. I checked it for spark, checked flywheel gap, disconnected kill switch wire and all to no avail. I tracked down and ordered the coil. Once installed, the saw still has no spark. By the way, I also replaced the air filter, spark plug, fuel filter and cleaned the fuel lines (he was using ethanol gas). The pull start is smooth, but no go on the start. From what I understand, the flywheel is the next place to go. I know that the magnet in the flywheel attracted the coil when I was installing it, so I am not sure if the flywheel purchase and replacement is a sure cure. Any suggestions?
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Husqvarna 50 51 55 workshop manual service manual http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=2&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0CDAQFjAB&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.mymowerparts.com%2Fpdf%2FHusqvarna-Service-Repair-Manuals%2FW9200002.pdf&ei=kR8_U6GLJ_DJsQTwm4DwBA&usg=AFQjCNEc_NQBK4HAKZHt9C2IAtYccmc-qQ&sig2=J0m1SbCpx0G2CtE-1XM7WA&bvm=bv.64125504,d.cWc
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Page 18 or so trouble shooting for spark steps.
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How are you checking for spark?
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Thanks for the manual link - that is what I was using to get as far as I did - this is the first Husky I am working on. The module I removed had the grounding wire; the new one do not. I was wondering if just having the mounting screw as the ground to the chassis is the problem.
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3000 FPS - Followed the instruction in the service manual and with a spark plug tester with adjustable spark gap. Got any other tips you find work best for you?
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So, you have followed the shop manual to check spark, and it appears that you have done everything correctly. Since the old coil used the short ground wire and the new one does not. Try making sure the coil has a good ground to the case. Remove the coil and look at the mounting positions for the coil in the case. Scrape away the paint on the top of the coil mounting positions such that you are sure the coil armature is in direct contact with bare metal.
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Hey KilliansRedLeo - Excellent point about the paint - I did clean the whole flywheel chamber out (tons of debris), but wouldn't have thought about the paint! Off to try that - let you know how I make out.
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Just for laughs, how are you turning the engine over to check for spark? We just went through this type of problem in another thread. The flywheel apparently has to exceed 400-RPM to produce a spark. So if you are turning it with a drill motor make sure you are doing it a the drills' highest speed and this really sounds like we think you are stupid but are you turning it in the correct direction? If you are using the saws' starter, all is good but if using the drill you should be turning it anti-clockwise.
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I never think a sugesstion means I'm stupid. Using the pull start. Just love breaking it down and putting it all back together! Passes my time as a retiree.
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If you have a look here:
http://chainsawrepair.createaforum.com/rec-room/age-of-the-membership/msg38029/#new (http://chainsawrepair.createaforum.com/rec-room/age-of-the-membership/msg38029/#new)
You will find out that the majority of us are members in good standing of the "Old Retired Farts" society!
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My guess is a e are the only one's who care about keeping things. My dad was a mechanic and I spent lots of time under various vehicles in the street outside my house growing up.
By the way, dremeled the paint, and she started right up, but quit after about 10 seconds - fuel tank was full of crap when I got it -time to check low and high adjustment ports.
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Remove the fuel filter from the tank, block off the fuel line, throw the bar nuts in the tank, fill the tank with purple power and let it sit for a couple of hours, then shake like hell and rinse the tank with water several times. Repeat if it still has crap in the bottom. You can also use mineral spirits or kerosene to break up the old gas/oil residue in the bottom of the tank. Remember to remove the bar nuts from the tank or you will be wondering where in hell they went. Reinstall the fuel filter. IIRC the starting positions for the H/L carb adjustments is 1 turn out from lightly seated (check the Service Manual).
Good luck!
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Will do.
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By the way, dremeled the paint, and she started right up, but quit after about 10 seconds - fuel tank was full of crap when I got it -time to check low and high adjustment ports.
Glad we could help!
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Still won't start. Clean fuel, H and L adjusted. Piston pristine.
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Has your spark plug got any fuel on it?
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What 660 said. Earlier in the thread you mentioned that it started and ran for 10 seconds, are you still getting spark if so, what happens if you put a small amount of fuel directly into the carb, does it start then? You could have a blocked or kinked fuel line?
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Remove the fuel filter from the tank, block off the fuel line, throw the bar nuts in the tank, fill the tank with purple power and let it sit for a couple of hours, then shake like hell and rinse the tank with water several times. Repeat if it still has crap in the bottom. You can also use mineral spirits or kerosene to break up the old gas/oil residue in the bottom of the tank. Remember to remove the bar nuts from the tank or you will be wondering where in hell they went. Reinstall the fuel filter. IIRC the starting positions for the H/L carb adjustments is 1 turn out from lightly seated (check the Service Manual).
Good luck!
What do you throw the bar nuts in the tank for?
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So they rattle . . . .
You shake the tank with the bar nuts inside to break up the crud you are trying to get out of the tank!
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Thanks Jim!
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the tank is only one step. if it had crap gas in it, the carb needs to be properly cleaned and rebuilt as well.
if the fuel went bad, or had time to harden into varnish, the fuel line and filter need to be replaced. not just clamped off and flushed.
to me, using smaller nuts/washers is a better idea. they fit into the smaller areas and will break up any hardened varnish better. these tanks are flimsy on the best of days, best not to have 2 'heavy' nuts banging around in there. especially if the gas has gone that bad. it has a way of affecting the plastic and the seam is the first place for problems to start.
CHANGE the fuel line. you WON'T get it clean.
properly clean the carb. don't use high pressure from an air compressor on it. low psi only. I only use plastic safe (sensor safe) carb cleaner or NON-chlorinated brake cleaner. if it doesn't say 'NON- chlorinated' clearly where you can see it on the label. it isn't safe for the carb.
you are also going to need a new carb mounting gasket.
since the saw has sat for quite a while, how's the intake boot and impulse grommet? this is a very known issue area for these saws. I won't ask about the carb mounting block threads...... ;)
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Here’s the latest on the Husky 50 – put gas directly in carb, started after a few pulls, let it run for 5 to 8 minutes on idle –seemed okay. When I throttled up, the saw went under load and the chain wouldn’t move – I checked the brake and it was off, but felt odd. I pulled the chain cover off and the brake is gone, inside of case coated with residue that is part of the material itself. It looks like the cover is toast and binding on the sprocket.
Anyway, the saw doesn’t start regularly, so I am thinking that I need to pull the existing fuel line and replace it (as suggested) and get a new gas cap. When I pull gas, put the cap back on and stand the saw on its bottom, I can hear air exiting the hole that the fuel line comes through. Anybody know where I can get reliable info on ID and OD of that fuel line?
Thoughts or suggestions?
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IIRC it is 3x5 mm fuel line. The HVA part number is Husqvarna 544324902 (replaces 501768301)
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So they rattle . . .
You shake the tank with the bar nuts inside to break up the crud you are trying to get out of the tank!
Ok, I guess that makes sense. Haven't come across one that bad before! Thanks.