Chainsaw Repair
Husqvarna - Stihl - Poulan - Jonsered - Dolmar chainsaws and more => Husqvarna => Topic started by: winland on April 23, 2014, 09:26:23 am
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As I noted in the "Wanted" section, I am working on the oiler for my 371xp.
I got the clutch off with 660magnum's inspiration to make my own tool.
Next is the propeller looking part, the drive wheel.
The 371 workshop manual says to unscrew this and remove.
Well mine did not need to be unscrewed. I was able to just lift it off.
It does not screw on or off. There are good threads on the outside of the drive wheel, but do not see what it is suppose to screw on/off of.
Also, I am not finding the oil pump washer, PN 503 23 00-59.
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There are supposed to be left hand threads on the crank shaft for the clutch spider frame to screw onto.
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There are three parts that are needed for the pump drive. The washer you noted used to keep the pump drive from eating up the seal, 503521501 the pump piston, the drive wheel engages the splines on the piston, the crank shaft bushing 503779101 this is what the pump drive rides on, there should be a very thin o-ring beneath this 503263019, it seals the crank going through the inner race of the bearing.
Have a look at your pump drive to see if perhaps the bushing came off with the pump drive.
So here is the assembly order, o-ring on the crank against the inner race. Sleeve over the crankshaft, large end into the seal. Then the washer over the bushing against the seal. Then the pump, then the pump drive spins down engaging the splines on the pump piston.
I suspect the problem to be a severely worn piston shaft or the drive is going past the pump piston because of the missing washer. Post a set of pictures of your parts.
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Here are some photos of what I have.
All the screws look to be in good condition, not worn.
The part number on the inside of the pump is a husqvarna # 5035214
503 52 13 is the number in the IPL
when assembled, should you be able to pull the drive wheel off the shaft, or must it be unscrewed?
I can lift the drive wheel off the shaft, out of the pump no need to unscrew.
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Your third picture clearly shows the sleeve in its' proper position, the sleeve just slips inside the seal, underneath it is the o-ring mentioned in my earlier post. The washer you are missing slips down over the sleeve and rests against the seal. It is there to keep the rotating pump drive from chewing up the outer lip of the seal and to keep the drive fully engaged with the pump piston. On the 365/372 series of saws the oil pump is driven off the clutch drum not the crank shaft. E.g. the pump drive just spins freely on the bushing when the clutch engages.
In your second picture you can see the pump shaft with splines that engage the outer threads on the plastic pump drive wheel. If the washer you are missing is not there the pump drive wheel will sometimes go in too far and not engage the splines enough to drive the pump efficiently.
Lastly take your pump drive and lay it across the notches in your clutch drum to make sure that the ears on the drive protrude a tiny amount past the notches in the drum. Sometimes people put the drum on without engaging the drive in the clutch drum causing premature wear on the drive.
Sorry, I missed one of your questions. You should have to unscrew the pump drive from the shaft. What you are really doing is disengaging the pump drive from the pump shaft. The threads of the pump drive should be centered over the pump shaft equidistant from either end of the threads on the drive wheel.
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Is it possible that because I am missing the washer, that the drive wheel is sitting to low and not catching on the clutch drum?
Any chance I can get my missing washer, 503 23 00-59, at my local ACE hardware or Lowes?
Need to know size?
Chuck
PS: thanks guys for helping this non-mechanic
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Yes that is also a possibility, also the drive wheel threads are supposed to meet the pump shaft at the 12 o'clock position. Too much either way toward 11 or 1 o'clock will not drive the pump correctly and may cause the drive to slip past the pump shaft at high RPMs, just where you need the most oil.
Unfortunately I do not think you are going to find the washer any where but Husqvarna, if you have to order it you might as well order a new drive wheel as well.
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If you order the pump drive make sure you order the exact one you have. HVA have two versions of the pump drive, the one like yours and a newer style with only one ear. I have never been able to get the new style to work properly on older pumps designed for the style your saw uses.
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The missing washer is P# 503 23 00-59 is $3.40.
The pump drive gear is P# 503 75 61-02 is $13.61.
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Ordered the parts, hope to get it back together first of next week.
Question, will running a chainsaw when the oiler is not working properly or sufficiently, cause the bar to heat up and pinch the chain?
This appears to be what has happened to the 24" bar that was on the 371.
Anyway to correct the gauge of the bar?
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Bars come from the factory as .050", .058", or 063" gauge. To change this you have to buy another bar.
Someone gave me a saw and after I got it running and had used it a while, I noticed that it had a .058" bar and the chain was .050". It cut straight and I would probably never have noticed just using the saw?
No one stocks .058" chain around here.
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Bars come from the factory as .050", .058", or 063" gauge. To change this you have to buy another bar.
I know and understand what you are saying.
The bar is definitely a .050 gauge.
The chain is definitely a .050 gauge chain and moves easily in my other .050 gauge bars.
But it no longer spins freely in the .050 bar that I just took off the 371xp.
The same bar, the same chain that was used yesterday when the oiling problem was noticed.
The gauge of the bar seems to have significantly decreased due to the over heating of the chain/bar.
The tip is fine, spins good/easy with chain, but the channel in the bar is no longer .050.
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Sounds to me like the bar got pinched in the cut and closed up the rails a bit. Have seen bar so hot to melt the paint off the and the chain still rolls around freely.
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Find where it is tight and open it up
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Chuck, did you get your parts and fix your oiler. I see you are looking for clutch, drum, drum bearing and a 3/8 7T rim. I'll have a look round.
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Thanks, but I ordered the bearing first thing this morning.
Although all of my oiler parts look to be in good condition,
I got replacement drive wheel, the oiler piston and a new washer that goes under the drive wheel, that was missing.
Other than the missing washer, I really could not find a problem with the whole oiler system.
So it got cleaned up and put back together with the new parts.
Just need the new drum bearing to get things all put back together.
You ask "what happened to the old bearing?"
It disappeared. Probably got thrown out with a bunch of paper towels while cleaning up.
Par for me. Try to fix one thing and break or loose another thing. ::)
I could never make a living as a mechanic.
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Don't feel bad, I put away a 262XP clutch that needed a new spring until my next HVA order. Remembered to order the spring, you think I can find the clutch............hell NO! Don't know where I put it, been looking for weeks!
Given the condition of your parts, your earlier suspicion about the missing washer may be correct. I was putting together a 362XP the other day and left the washer out purposely and guess what....no oil. OBTW all the saws in the 362/65/71/72/72XPW series use the same drum bearing.