Chainsaw Repair
Husqvarna - Stihl - Poulan - Jonsered - Dolmar chainsaws and more => Husqvarna => Topic started by: winland on July 11, 2014, 12:35:00 pm
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Put a "new to me" 42" b/c on my 2100 the other day and went to kick some stump butt.
Luckily I also took along my 394xp, because it ended up doing all the work.
The 2100 starts easy, idles fine, runs good at WOT. I cut into the stump about 6"- 8" and then it started to bog down.
Tried feathering the throttle, but could not find a spot that it would stay running.
I have not used the 2100 since last year on another big stump and work fine as I recall.
It had been run dry last season and put away.
Put brand new gas/oil in that morning.
Felt like it was starving for air or gas or something while in the cut.
What are possible causes?
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So the last time it was tuned it was cold? And you were running in warmer weather, did you check the tune?
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The 2100 has a governed carb and must be tuning while under load. So they might sound fine when rev'ed up with no load because all the fuel is coming from the limiter circuit. Once in the cut and pulled below the limiter circuit RPM it could be running very lean.
As well, the limiter circuit could be the problem. Their spring check valve often gets weak and dumps extra fuel at too low of RPM. The limiter circuit can be disabled by placing an aluminum disk (cut from pop can) under the check valve (the brass screw plug on the right side of the carb next to the choke shaft).
Also it could be a fuel delivery problem. Plugged fuel filter, crracked fuel line or the carb could need a rebuild.
Good luck!
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Thanks guys,
I will put a smaller bar/chain on it do some test cuts and adjust the H side of the carb.
If that does not help, I will check and clean the governor/limiter screw.
Then rebuild the carb and replace fuel lines and filter.
Hopefully I can get it working without doing more damage. ;D
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Least now I know who to call for a 42" ;D .404 or 3/8?
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It's a fuel thing no doubt .If anything a 2100 should not run out of power .
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It is a 3/8 with a full skip chain.
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It is a 3/8 with a full skip chain.
8) Thats what I was betting to myself. The full part too. ;)
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I was unable to get good results with just re-tuning the carb.
Took the carb out and checked the governor.
Looks like someone had already defeated the limiter.
Found a small metal plate under the brass screw.
Will order a rebuild kit for the carb and see if that helps.
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I just use a BB to defeat gov on saws like that. Did that to the partner 550 and all was good.
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Apparently the larger of the two welsh plugs is an exact fit for the hole for the brass screw governor, so I have been told.
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Apparently the larger of the two welsh plugs is an exact fit for the hole for the brass screw governor, so I have been told.
Never even thought about that. Good to know and share. Thanks.
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I use a piece of aluminum cut from a beer can with a .250" hollow punch.
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I had thought I defeated the gov on mine but evidently I had missed something .Never the less it still does good .However like most of my larger saws it doesn't get much action .
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I have rebuilt the carb, but it had NO positive effect.
I have ordered a cheap pressure/vacuum tester to check the carb.
Hope to get that Thursday or Friday.
I took off the muffler to see if it was restricting the exhaust.
The muffler looked pretty empty except for the spark arrestor and it was clean.
Took a photo of the piston and rings.
Looks pretty good to me.
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I have a saw that the piston looks brand new with all the machining marks on the exhaust side. To look down the boot it looks smooth on the intake side.
I got ready to put rings in it.
When I pulled the cylinder off, sure enough, the intake side was smooth as a baby's butt but there were no machining marks left. I decided to put a piston in it also for a long term repair. Nothing like leaking around the intake port and spitting back through the carburetor.
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Here is the carb side of the piston.
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I have rebuilt the carb and did a pressure test on it.
It holds an 8 PSI pressure with no problem.
Looks like I am going to need our leader take a look at this saw and do his "redneck" magic on it.
Hey Kevin, you want to play with this big boy?
Chuck
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Bring it on down and I'll take a gander at it. I'm pretty much caught up right now too.
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Is that a crack in the intake block ( top right)?
(http://chainsawrepair.createaforum.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=3772.0;attach=7447;image)
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Good eye Kevin!
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+1 Kevin, good eye for an old geeze! LOL! :P
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That looks to me to be a crack in the cylinder inside the intake part? The crack appears to go all the way to the piston?
I was talking to Kevin on the phone and he had been thinking it was the intake block?
What do you guys think?
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I think you may very well be right Jim. I saw the crack but did not realize the what we are looking at is the cylinder not the intake block.
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Crack in hard plastic around intake
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Could it be a source f an air leak? Looks as though it reaches the outside?
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Appears to be a small crack/inclusion at the 7 o-clock position as well. What's the history on the saw? Does this model have an outboard carb support?
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From what I can tell the carb spacer is NLA. Perhaps the crack can be sealed in some way. But it will definitely contribute to an air leak. Maybe a little JB thinned down somehow and forced into the crack?
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Appears to be a small crack/inclusion at the 7 o-clock position as well. What's the history on the saw? Does this model have an outboard carb support?
The spot a 7 o-clock looks to be discoloration. I cannot fell anything with my finger tip or fingernail.
I have owned the saw for almost 2 years. I run it just a couple times last summer no problems until now.
It does have an outboard carb support.
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Here are a couple pictures just to show the orientation of the parts.
It appears to me that the only place that unwanted air could possibly enter the cylinder via this crack would be at the very top edge.
Would a small, strategically placed, drop of super glue fix this potential leak?
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That insulator block is made of a polypropylene type plastic or what we old timers call white nylon. Super glue with not actually stick to it or have any solvent reaction with the plastic but it may possibly fill the void?
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2100 2101 1100 285 intake block
http://www.ebay.com/itm/HUSQVARNA-2100-CHAINSAW-INTAKE-BOX2096R-/351066034333?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item51bd2a909d
http://store.chainsawr.com/products/husqvarna-2100-chainsaw-intake-manifold
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Thanks Kevin
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There is a compound called 'Plast-Aid' that you can make a new one from. You will need to use the old one as mold. Take a look; http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IkTSpmS1zXY
http://www.plast-aid.com/
Ive called them on some projects and they were quite helpful.
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Has the intake block come in and installed yet to see if that was the problem?
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I got the intake block Monday morning and installed it.
Still have the same problem.
No worse, no better.
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Dang.
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I just spent 2hrs with this 2100. First tested and seen what owner was talking about. Start making cut and it would shut off. Tried it a couple times same thing.
Took it to the bench and pulled carb and tore it down checking things. I adjusted the fulcrum and the needle look new so put it back. You replaced the needle right? Diaphragms looked good on both sides, so no use opening that new kit IMO. The choke wasnt closing all the way but that is another story. Fixed.
Checked spark with the new tool and even after stops and testing it showed. GREEN (flashing) Proper voltage, ingnition is OK
I made 4 full cuts in 17.5" dry maple no problems and starting on 5th cut when raised up out of wood to hit 5th cookie she went into a run on like on the race saws. I hit the kill switch and it did nothing. So I then took my hand and pushed into the green weenie filter to block off air to shut her down.
While still hot I started trying to start and check things and it was just erratic with it's idle and starting when hot.
I am thinking there are bigger issues here from a air leak once warmed up. What do you all think, seals, base, etc?
I dont know 2100's so hoping you all can shed some light.
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I wish I could give you a definitive answer, but I can't the air leak is a good possibility though.
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The way it acted once warmed up made me think seals.
When cold had perfect idle and blipping up to rpm. Walked to back to make test cuts and after it got hot after 4th cookie is when it acted up.
Also noticed someone at one time drilled a much larger hole in the carb cover over metering diaphragm. The oem one is still there too off to the side.
Something weird I noticed is this cylinder is black. Dont look painted?
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Husqvarna 2100 service manual https://docs.google.com/file/d/0BxtqTb6j-rejRDBuQ3UtVWtXVWs/edit save to your hard drive or print.
Husqvarna 2100 IPL https://docs.google.com/file/d/0BxtqTb6j-rejUnoyS3lrdWhOLVE/edit " " " "
Husqvarna 2101 owners manual https://docs.google.com/file/d/0BwyFMP_THfM8MWhwNVh4cmxJVnM/edit " " " "
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Kev, are you saying the metering side carb cover is drilled? Kinda odd, but if that's the case, that would tend to mess with the carb mixture somewhat. I.e stihl Intelicarb system. Doubt that's the real issue but it may make the carb adjustment fussy. Make sure the enrichment system us indeed defeated, short of that maybe case gasket or seals are bad. Loose cylinder bolts?? Adam
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Checking the cyl bolts next.
The gov has that flat piece metal I would assume in the early pics. I seen 12's out of the wood and that 17/5" wasnt slowing it down any.
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Air leak or screwey carb IMO. Supper time here, homemade Shepherds Pie and a Guiness stout
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Took it to the bench and pulled carb and tore it down checking things. I adjusted the fulcrum and the needle look new so put it back. You replaced the needle right? Diaphragms looked good on both sides, so no use opening that new kit IMO.
I made 4 full cuts in 17.5" dry maple no problems and starting on 5th cut when raised up out of wood to hit 5th cookie she went into a run on like on the race saws. I hit the kill switch and it did nothing. So I then took my hand and pushed into the green weenie filter to block off air to shut her down.
While still hot I started trying to start and check things and it was just erratic with it's idle and starting when hot.
I am thinking there are bigger issues here from a air leak once warmed up. What do you all think, seals, base, etc?
I did replace the needle when I rebuilt the carb, along with the spring and diaphragms and gaskets.
I did not replace the welsh plugs
Never had the shut off switch not work.
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Took it to the bench and pulled carb and tore it down checking things. I adjusted the fulcrum and the needle look new so put it back. You replaced the needle right? Diaphragms looked good on both sides, so no use opening that new kit IMO.
I made 4 full cuts in 17.5" dry maple no problems and starting on 5th cut when raised up out of wood to hit 5th cookie she went into a run on like on the race saws. I hit the kill switch and it did nothing. So I then took my hand and pushed into the green weenie filter to block off air to shut her down.
While still hot I started trying to start and check things and it was just erratic with it's idle and starting when hot.
I am thinking there are bigger issues here from a air leak once warmed up. What do you all think, seals, base, etc?
I did replace the needle when I rebuilt the carb, along with the spring and diaphragms and gaskets.
I did not replace the welsh plugs
Never had the shut off switch not work.
Switch probably does still work. I would guess it was due to the run on happening when it was hot. Had it happen racing before too. Went to hit kill switch and saw just kept on going. Have to either choke them off or flood them with squirt bottle.
I'll know for sure when I try it cold again to see. Pretty sure I remember using the switch other times too.
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Kevin. One more thing I thought of that would give erratic carburetion would be a bent fork on the metering needle /fulcrum. The forks are often bent from the mfg. Take a close look at that.
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I pulled the fulcrum etc and looked it over before I adjusted it, nothing bent.
One thing I did notice. It is using a pinned attached metering diaphragm. I had read in service manual there was the pinned and not in 2100 HS?
I remember one of my saws years ago had troubles with pinned attached diaphragm. Went to unpinned not attached dia, fulcrum style and worked.
winland do you remember what type of metering diaphragm came out of the carb or have a pic? Just a grasping at straws deal here.
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This is a photo of the original diaphragm that I replaced.
Also I found this youtube video. Sounds a lot like the problem I am having with the 2100.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z7f9zNQTJBQ (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z7f9zNQTJBQ)
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Only thing this dont use rubber boot. Solid intake block and I made sure all was tight. But didnt check the intake block you put on cylinder before bringing it. I'll spray around it next start up and see there too then.
I also noticed your 2100 does seem to get leaner in the cuts yesterday.
Just so you know it had plenty of power in the 4 cuts yesterday till it went haywire on the 5th one.
Same dia so rules that idea out.
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Be worth a try running a non - captivated fulcrum on the carb. You can cut the little ring that the lever engages off the diaphragm a polish the tab so it doesn't bind.
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Kevin. One more thing I thought of that would give erratic carburetion would be a bent fork on the metering needle /fulcrum. The forks are often bent from the mfg. Take a close look at that.
Me and this 2100 is going to fight. I tell ya that right now. LOL 4th freaking pull the recoil rope let go. All 2' of it. I put 3' of super strong recoil rope back in it.
Cylinder bolts checked out and was thinking maybe gasket between cylinder block was missing. So I pulled all of that to make sure and back together.
Then starting tearing back into carb. Adam I did find bent fork on 1 side of the needle. Instead of straightening that one. I just pulled everything out of the carb except the welch plug. Knowing it was working right with that one. Noticed the new check valve diaphragm material was a little different. More the of rubber style I like then material style like in it.
Sprayed carb cleaner through all the holes making sure everything was working and not blocked anywhere. All checked out.
3 pull on choke she popped. 1 pull after she is running idling PHO. Now to test and see what happens. Hopefully the run on yesterday was due to the bent fork around needle and not seals.
The on/off switch works.
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Kevin, if nothing else you ARE a persistant bugger!
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I'm not sure if you said you checked this but did you check the tank vent? That jred 490 I have had a bad vent and it would lose power in the cut.
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I thought of tank vent today too Thanks Ron.
I made 8 good cuts with 16" bar buried. Then went wanky. Like surging through cuts. Air leak in my mind.
Did some testing with carb cleaner like winland showed in mweba video and found air leak between intake block and carb around carb gasket.
I think I have her figured out now. After comparing the **** intake block winland pulled off and new gaskets that come in kit. ;)
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Just in case. I have never done seals on a 2100. Any tips or info to share.
This is the most I have looked at one before.
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All day with this thing. But I think I won after this last test session after pulling a gasket off of one of my HS carbs and using instead of the supplied gasket in the kit that is wrong wrong wrong. You cant see it when putting all together lining intake bolts up.
Noticed this thing is a GAS HOG. But power to spare. I ran his fuel out yesterday, ran a tank of my mix yesterday-today and start on another tank of my mix this evening.
Then I noticed the 2100 laughing at me. I thought what the heck I'm going to :-\ :-X. The bar nuts were vibrating off and 1 was already in the weeds. Got out the magnet on rollers and located it. Yep were going to fight if it stays around. :D :D
Pics running my 16" 4 chits.
(http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g289/doemaster789/166/husky2100001_zpscd572fad.jpg) (http://s59.photobucket.com/user/doemaster789/media/166/husky2100001_zpscd572fad.jpg.html)
(http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g289/doemaster789/166/husky2100002_zps84d2f77b.jpg) (http://s59.photobucket.com/user/doemaster789/media/166/husky2100002_zps84d2f77b.jpg.html)
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Good job bud!
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Thanks Adam.
Husqvarna 2100 Velocity stack v stack
Roger maybe something can be had from K&N http://www.knfilters.com/filteraccess.htm
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This is different to me, but interesting. http://www.pjmotorsports.com/velocity-stack-filters.html?gclid=CNKmlaqT8b8CFQuCaQodWUcAWQ
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Just got done testing it out today. Perrrrrect IMO. Got the tune set to 4 stroking and clears up nice under load in the cut. Just like I like.
You know when I pulled your plug that was in it in the beginning and switched one of my plugs in it, your plug looked lean to me. Stands to reason now that we know it had a air leak.
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Those velocity stacks are pretty fancy Kevin. Sounds like the 2100 is doing good. Good job on figuring it out.
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These were sent to me before I had found the air leak.
winland are these block off plates specific for the 2100? Pretty slick, never seen the husky oem block off plates up close.
(http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g289/doemaster789/166/plates001_zpse56b5287.jpg) (http://s59.photobucket.com/user/doemaster789/media/166/plates001_zpse56b5287.jpg.html)
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winland are these block off plates specific for the 2100? Pretty slick, never seen the husky oem block off plates up close.
Yes, they are suppose to be specific to the 2100 and a few others.
I was hoping they would come with short bolts.
Have to go to ACE hardware to get some.
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Those block off plates kind of remind me of the ones I have made.
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winland are these block off plates specific for the 2100? Pretty slick, never seen the husky oem block off plates up close.
Yes, they are suppose to be specific to the 2100 and a few others.
I was hoping they would come with short bolts.
Have to go to ACE hardware to get some.
Whats stuff like that cost if you dont mind sharing?
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Kevin find the part # for the Husky tool you're interested in (found in the list below, and in the 2100 WS manual), and then search for that part # on any of the online Husqvarna parts sites.
http://www.husqvarna.com/ddoc/HUSI/HUSI2003_AAaa/HUSI2003_AAaa__1000000-01.pdf
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I forgot all about that link. Got it on HD and here somewhere too. Thanks for reminder.
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All day with this thing. But I think I won after this last test session after pulling a gasket off of one of my HS carbs and using instead of the supplied gasket in the kit that is wrong wrong wrong. You cant see it when putting all together lining intake bolts up.
Noticed this thing is a GAS HOG. But power to spare. I ran his fuel out yesterday, ran a tank of my mix yesterday-today and start on another tank of my mix this evening.
Then I noticed the 2100 laughing at me. I thought what the heck I'm going to :-\ :-X. The bar nuts were vibrating off and 1 was already in the weeds. Got out the magnet on rollers and located it. Yep were going to fight if it stays around. :D :D
Pics running my 16" 4 chits.
(http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g289/doemaster789/166/husky2100001_zpscd572fad.jpg) (http://s59.photobucket.com/user/doemaster789/media/166/husky2100001_zpscd572fad.jpg.html)
(http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g289/doemaster789/166/husky2100002_zps84d2f77b.jpg) (http://s59.photobucket.com/user/doemaster789/media/166/husky2100002_zps84d2f77b.jpg.html)
I like how the hole is cut in the air filter cover rather than remove the cover. Just looks better IMO. Good job figuring out the issues Kevin.
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A couple of photos of the actual problem that Kevin found was causing most if not all my problems.
The gasket that is supplied in the rebuild kit is not "oval" enough to cover.
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A couple of photos of the actual problem that Kevin found was causing most if not all my problems.
The gasket that is supplied in the rebuild kit is not "oval" enough to cover.
Plus you cant tell this holding everything together, carb, af intake, gasket and sliding bolts through and 1 through bracket too.
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I'll take a pic of the gift winland gave me before he left. ;D I was doing the happy dance.
(http://www.sherv.net/cm/emo/happy/dancing-with-joy-smiley-emoticon.gif)
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Much appreciated winland. That right there meant alot to me.
(http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g289/doemaster789/smiles/newbrewgasketset002_zps1f3b6753.jpg) (http://s59.photobucket.com/user/doemaster789/media/smiles/newbrewgasketset002_zps1f3b6753.jpg.html)
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Here's the correct gasket. I use these on old Homelites, Poulans, and Husqvarnas that run Tillotson HS carbs, as the RK-23HS supplied gasket doesn't have enough 'meat' around the impulse passage.
(http://www.ereplacementparts.com/images/part_501296402_med.gif)
http://www.ereplacementparts.com/gasket-p-617070.html
This is the Homelite gasket that I replace with the Husky gasket because it's cheaper...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/genuine-HOMELITE-59722-carburetor-gasket-SXL-Super-XL-auto-XL-12-pyramid-reed-/121401465333?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1c441759f5
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I sent him a link of the right ones and he bought 4 a day or so ago. Thats what I pulled from one of my HS carbs oem gasket.
Husqvarna Intake Gasket OEM 501 29 64-01 61, 66, 266, 298, 268, 272, 281, 285, 2101, 2100 etc 501296401 501296402
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Husky factory tools are stupid expensive. The pressure/vac tester is a mity vav and is twice as expensive as you can buy them for.
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I think winland said the new mity vac was in 40's.
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I have the silver metal Mity Vac. It was somewhere near $65 with all the brake bleed accessories.
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I have the silver metal Mity Vac. It was somewhere near $65 with all the brake bleed accessories.
Yep me too. Same price too.
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Nice oem gaskets winland. Thanks again for 2.
Lot nicer then the old one I put in your saw. Maybe someday slide 1 of the new ones in there. If you dont want to do it, drop her off someday when down this way and I'll put 1 of these new ones you sent in there for you.
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Would like one of you very knowledgeable mechanics to tell me if my 2100 piston (pictured on page one of this thread) is a "thin ring" or "standard"?
Thanks guys.
Chuck
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I didnt look inside it while here. But thought from your pic it could be a thin ring.
(http://chainsawrepair.createaforum.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=3772.0;attach=7445;image)
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The picture that Kevin is showing looks like a thin ring to me. That is good.
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Thin ring
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Much appreciated winland. That right there meant alot to me.
(http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g289/doemaster789/smiles/newbrewgasketset002_zps1f3b6753.jpg) (http://s59.photobucket.com/user/doemaster789/media/smiles/newbrewgasketset002_zps1f3b6753.jpg.html)
Curious about the 'Leghumper Redneck Porter' did you try it? What is the report on all of them?
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Much appreciated winland. That right there meant alot to me.
Curious about the 'Leghumper Redneck Porter' did you try it? What is the report on all of them?
In the beer food liquor thread. Right now after trying 4 of them it would be #1 or #2 if I went with taste of porter or the stout would be #1.
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@SquareFile velocity stacks you might want to share the ones you are going to make with some folks here. I remember us talking about those in this thread.
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I will send them via email.
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The last 2100 I did I put a 394 WJ39 carb on it with a 288 filter adapter and a v-stack.
(http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m599/srcarr52/Husky%202100%2011-11-13/IMG_2866_zpsed5d24ff.jpg)
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Why is the thin ring better than a think ring?
I noticed 2 rings? What is the purpose for that?
In a 4 stroke, the lower one would be the wiper ring, correct?
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Less resistance. Makes it Rev a little easier
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I will send them via email.
Only seeing 1 pic but 3 emails.
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Lots of 2-stroke engines have 2 rings. I have some very old saws ('40s, 50's, and early 60's) that have 3 rings. They're all compression rings, as there's no need for oil control rings on a 2-stroke of course.
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2 more pics came today from squarefile.
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SF did you make the one in pics posted or you going to make some like it?
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SF did you make the one in pics posted or you going to make some like it?
Yes I made it on a CNC. Going to make a few more, just wanted to make sure it fit before I made scrap aluminum.
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SF did you make the one in pics posted or you going to make some like it?
Yes I made it on a CNC. Going to make a few more, just wanted to make sure it fit before I made scrap aluminum.
Sweeeeeeeeet
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Very nice I like that.
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Ring drag is considered a parasitic lose on engines .One the other hand mutliple ringed pistons last almost forever as does the entire engine .
As an example some of the old John Deere and Caterpilar engines had 4 compression rings and two oil rings .They are still running after 50 60 70 years on the same rings .Not too fast or powerfull just run forever .Old rock solid Evenrude and Johnson outboard boat motors are the same .About the only way to kill one is to straight gas it .
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I bought a new 1956 Johnson 6hp and sold it two years ago to my BIL for what it cost new. Over the years, I had to put a water pump, two coils, couple sets of spark plugs, Umpteen shear pins, rewind spring, and gas tank on it. The power head was never apart. 55 years old.
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Those look nice. I wish I had a 2100 to put one on.
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SF did you make the one in pics posted or you going to make some like it?
Yes I made it on a CNC. Going to make a few more, just wanted to make sure it fit before I made scrap aluminum.
Also in the for sale board.
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Those look very nice. What is the spacing of the holes where the carb studs or bolts go threw. My guess would be that they will fit more than just a 2100.
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Those look very nice. What is the spacing of the holes where the carb studs or bolts go threw. My guess would be that they will fit more than just a 2100.
1.375
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Thank you
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Local husky 2101. He bought it after I told him the guy selling in Vancouver was a honest guy I have dealt with in past and on both my sites.
Came in yesterday. New owner cut hole in cover and added the velocity stack and black air filter.
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Original owners manual too.
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As it was sold.
1989 300th anniversary 2101
1 owner
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Nice saw.
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All tuned now. 1989 300th 2101xp
Was run 25:1 all its life. Now 40:1 xp ready to cut.
Love the idle. 8)
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REAL NICE!!!!
Shep
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I like the air filter and velocity stack.
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When I get rountouit! I have a box full of 2100.
Shep
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394 etc and up are just to heavy for me to be lugging around anymore. Just moving these saws back forth test cutting with the longer bars are killing me.
My back been aching for a few days now after the 2101.
Reminded me why I sold the 084's 3120's 166's off.
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Another 300th.
Husqvarna 2101 and 2100. 4 of 8 he owns. 2 I am going to have to clean cylinders up on with new piston kits.
pics in a bit.
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4 of them
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Anyone tried either of these aftermarket piston kits for the husqvarna 2100 2101 1100 etc? VEC or Episan
Not real worried about the rings or circlips as will go oem and caber there.
Anyone run either?
Needing 2 for cylinders I have to remove transfer for a guy. Went ahead and ordered the AO24057 ball hone to finish the crosshatching with once they are cleaned up first.
https://northwoodsaw.com/index.php?l=product_detail&p=46
https://northwoodsaw.com/index.php?l=product_detail&p=47
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Kevin if another nice 2101XP comes up (especially a 1989 300th Ann saw) please send me a text. I only get notifications from here once in a blue moon.
Made me cringe to see that nice original AF cover cut for a weenie filter. Good uncracked/unfaded/unmollested AF covers for these saws are getting scarce and stupid-expensive.
This reminds me to prod my buddy in NY State to ship me the 2101XP I bought from him some time ago.....
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This guy has 8 of them total 4 2100 and 4 2101 and 2 are 300th.
He sold the af cover and weenie to another local with one and went back stock.
Matter fact I just cleaned up 2 cylinder for him today. Wants me to get 2 piston kits and caber rings and put them back together for him.
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Kevin if another nice 2101XP comes up (especially a 1989 300th Ann saw) please send me a text. I only get notifications from here once in a blue moon.
Made me cringe to see that nice original AF cover cut for a weenie filter. Good uncracked/unfaded/unmollested AF covers for these saws are getting scarce and stupid-expensive.
This reminds me to prod my buddy in NY State to ship me the 2101XP I bought from him some time ago.....
I opened up an email address in G mail and never miss a notification any more.
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Both cylinders cleaned up. Guy in group has used the Episan with caber rings with good results.
Went to order 2 Episan and none in stock.
Was offered 1 on the chainsaw repair group when a guy bought 2 over 2 years ago. So I ended up going with 1 Episan and caber rings.
Found one 2100 thin ring piston and have a new set of 2100 thin rings coming too from another guy.
This was the lightest scored one, not that bad but on both sides. The other one had heavy aluminum transferred on ext.
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Just moving these saws back forth test cutting with the longer bars are killing me.
My back been aching for a few days now after the 2101.
Reminded me why I sold the 084's 3120's 166's off.
You think they are heavy now,wait another 20 years
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Just moving these saws back forth test cutting with the longer bars are killing me.
My back been aching for a few days now after the 2101.
Reminded me why I sold the 084's 3120's 166's off.
You think they are heavy now,wait another 20 years
Yep +1
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Was measuring new v/s used 2100 thin rings. New 2.07mm and used set 1.82mm and 1.86mm so worn a bit. Wonder what the psi was showing with the old set.
Thickness around 0.6mm (can measure NOS set if needed).
I received as a used thin ring piston set so no clue.
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Hope to get 2 out of the 3 back to runners for owner. The one on right I noticed someone installed piston backwards. Pins in exhaust but arrow on top was pointing right way. Betting aftermarket piston mis-marked. :D
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anyone else with NOS set of 2100 thin rings would you please measure the radial wall thickness for me. I pulled the saw back apart as I didnt like how it felt turning by hand. Have the thin ring piston soaking in Berrymans B12 right now to try and clean more carbon I feel might still be in the grooves
Guy in CRG confirmed for me. I’m getting 2mm on mine. 1 set supposedly new, 1 set used. Didn’t dig out the others.
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Guy gave me his 2101 IPL to have on hand so I didnt have to keep looking up IPL outside.
Soaking the thin ring piston lands in Berrymans B12 to use razor to get the carbon out from lands.
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B12 and razor did the trick. Carbon gone. New NOS thin rings and piston fit great in cylinder now.
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Another 2100 lives to cut another day. Thin ring in this one I just did for the guy.
Next one in line missing coil. Also going to need 2 on/off switches. Might go aftermarket if can find right ones or the push button on/off like I had on a 166 racesaw
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Saving info on the coils.
SEM type GA coil.
Fits many chainsaws. Dolmar 120s, 123, 133, 309. Stihl 045, 056, 08s Electronic, TS-350, TS-360. Husqvarna 2100, 2101. 1108 400 0810, 1108 400 0800 501831901
bosch ignition coil.
Fits: Husqvarna 480, 285, 2100. Stihl 045 & 056 and some 041 models. Dolmar 119, 120 and other Dolmars.
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husqvarna 2100 thin ring getting buttoned up after rebuild and going home with owner last night.
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Armature Plate coil
Part Number: 501831901 *This part replaces obsolete part #: and 501675701.
Compatibility
This part is compatible with the following machines:
Husqvarna
77 (1981-09) Chainsaw
77 (1981-09) Chainsaw
77 (1984-03) Chainsaw
77 (1984-03) Chainsaw
77 (1987-12) Chainsaw
77 (1987-12) Chainsaw
480 (1981-10) Chainsaw
480 (1981-10) Chainsaw
480 (1987-11) Chainsaw
480 (1987-11) Chainsaw
298 (1987-06) Chainsaw
298 (1987-06) Chainsaw
298 (1986-04) Chainsaw
298 (1986-04) Chainsaw
2100 (1981-10) Chainsaw
2100 (1981-10) Chainsaw
2100 (1982-11) Chainsaw
2100 (1982-11) Chainsaw
2100 (1983-11) Chainsaw
2100 (1983-11) Chainsaw
2100 (1984-04) Chainsaw
2100 (1984-04) Chainsaw
2100 (1985-08) Chainsaw
2100 (1985-08) Chainsaw
2100 CD (1979-12) Chainsaw
2100 CD (1979-12) Chainsaw
2101 (1987-04) Chainsaw
2101 (1987-04) Chainsaw
2101 (1988-03) Chainsaw
2101 (1988-03) Chainsaw
2101 (1989-02) Chainsaw
2101 (1989-02) Chainsaw
2101 (1990-06) Chainsaw
2101 (1990-06) Chainsaw
265RX (1992-05) Brushcutter
265RX (1995-11) Brushcutter
265RX (1993-03) Brushcutter
265RX (2002-08) Brushcutter
265RX (2006-01) Brushcutter
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I learned something yesterday. Being I only usually work on 2100 2101 etc one at a time. I never noticed some of the cylinders used different threads and bolts for muffler.
#2 was a PITA yesterday trying to find the right parts out of the boxes and fasteners. Still shorts some fasteners.
#3 will need some parts ordered and bunch of fasteners. Looks like he is going to bite the bullet and buy new coils being good used has never turned up.
Said he was out cutting with the #1 I did before these yesterday = thin ring saw.
#1 oem thin ring
#2 new espian piston with cabers
#3 oem piston thick
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Someone had cut the case on the one 2100. So it isnt getting built. Saving topend and crank for others.
Last one to be built from the box of parts. Finished it around 9pm last night.
Used coil came from a newer member on chainsaw repair group fb that I hooked owner up with.
I think that makes 10 runners in these for him now.
This is one has the espian piston with caber rings in it to see how they do. Had good psi from get go starting last night.
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Do have a question. This full wrap was the thicker newer grey. The other full wrap was black grip and guessing older one. Which ones go to which?
This saw is 2101 tag and another one is 2100 tag. So going to do some cover swaps for him after 4th. The last 2100 to come in has 2101 covers. This 2101 got 2100 clutch cover.
Bet Aaron knows something @Eccentric
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The one I have is a 2100 XP and has the black full wrap.
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One before this last one I put a black handle full wrap on too. One before.
There is another one right now with the last black handle on it 2100 with 2101 covers. I like the feel of the thicker grey ones myself. He likes the black ones.
(http://chainsawrepair.createaforum.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=3772.0;attach=24380;image)
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Husqvarna 2101 ipl http://s30387.gridserver.com/partsDiagrams/Husqvarna%202101.pdf
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Saving a pic of the velocity stack Scarr makes for these.
I thought they had been anodized but he said made from nylon 6/6
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Do have a question. This full wrap was the thicker newer grey. The other full wrap was black grip and guessing older one. Which ones go to which?
This saw is 2101 tag and another one is 2100 tag. So going to do some cover swaps for him after 4th. The last 2100 to come in has 2101 covers. This 2101 got 2100 clutch cover.
Bet Aaron knows something @Eccentric
That thicker grey handlebar may well be an aftermarket part. A few outfits in the PNW made them.
If it's OEM Husky, then it was likely sold on a late 2101XP. Those were made during the time that 268/272XP and 281/288XP saws were sold with that thicker grey.
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Needed carb kits for a couple 2100 today. CRSA
CARBURETOR:
Tillotson HS-136B, C, D series
MAJOR REPAIR KIT:
RK-23HS
MINOR REPAIR KIT:
DG-5HS/T
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It said 2101 on recoil but could be 2101, never looked at tag. But it had the 2100 pro safety full wrap. Built super strong and thick grip. Thicker then the grey full wrap grips I tried on them oem and way thicker then the black covered ones.
OK you husqvarna 2100 2100 1100 298 etc etc buffs. Had 2 more in yesterday.
The question = One had a tank that had a lip and channel where the front handle bolted to it. Never seen this on all the rest so far. What did the tank come on if not a 2100 2101.
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Still one of the best loved saws Husky ever built. It was very well designed and extremely strong,and the long stroke and full 100cc made it a real brute and it would happily pull any length of bar. Being a heavier sturdier design than modern saws they could be rebuilt again and again, they also had the torque to be happy on any Alaskan sawmill too.
I'm sure many people still have fond memories of running them. A few years ago I was in a shop and opened an old cupboard to see a really black oily neglected one sitting inside,I asked the owner what he was keeping it for,he said "It's an old piece of junk,I'm throwing it out",so I rescued it and took it home. When I washed it down it looked hardly used and it had the sturdy "West Coast" handlebars on it. The internals looked new so I tuned and modded it and it ran great,sold it in one day for $600.
What a lot of people don't know about the 2100 is that the oiler is designed so you can double the oil flow for a long bar,you simply remove the oiler and move a screw pin from hole 1 to hole 11(2),marked on the oiler.
It still is the king of torque of any 100cc saw made since.
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Merged with a longer 2100 2101 thread
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When our shop sold chain we charged "per driver" for the length of the chain,for some reason .404 was the same price per driver(or close) as 3/8",so a lotta guys with long bars used the .404" because there was many less drivers in the chain so it cost less.
The saws are brutes and will happily pull .404 chain,with long bars many prefer skiptooth which makes filing faster,especially with a long bar.
To plug the governers in them we simply dropped in a welch plug from leftover carb kit parts,works fine.
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That part about the two position oiler I didn't know about the 2100 . I run a 32" bar on my 2100 and it always oiled okay so I never delved into it .Good info to know .
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Friend has been selling nice 2100 2101 runners with 36" or pho here for $400-450
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I put a 42" bar on my 2100 for milling. No extra oiler because the oiler on the saw really put it out.
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All day with this thing. But I think I won after this last test session after pulling a gasket off of one of my HS carbs and using instead of the supplied gasket in the kit that is wrong wrong wrong. You cant see it when putting all together lining intake bolts up.
Noticed this thing is a GAS HOG. But power to spare. I ran his fuel out yesterday, ran a tank of my mix yesterday-today and start on another tank of my mix this evening.
Then I noticed the 2100 laughing at me. I thought what the heck I'm going to :-\ :-X. The bar nuts were vibrating off and 1 was already in the weeds. Got out the magnet on rollers and located it. Yep were going to fight if it stays around. :D :D
THANKS!
This is the post which lead me to find the final solution. I wonder if it was the same wrong gasket supplied in both kits. My saw is my dad's old Poulan 245 which has never ran well enough to use as a saw since it came from the factory. It was the impulse passage, a rerouting channel which at the other end from the hole though the gasket, which was left slightly uncovered and leaking. I found the old gasket and used it as a pattern to make a new one.
The saga I read here have a lot of similarity with what I've experienced with this saw. I had one of those run away events like you described. I just buried the chain in wood and that stopped it.
I've also plugged the governor thing. Those run away events is what I think those so called governors are supposed to limit, but do not stop. What I think they do is vent gasses into the diaphragm chamber lifting it away pulling the fuel valve closed. And I think when that happened it bends the inlet control arm. The aim I think is to prevent the saw from coming apart, perhaps starting a fire.
There doesn't seem to be any literature about them I can find. Just mentions here and there that they exist, "and to be sure to plug them with a disk you have to make." Every where I read that. I used that grey sealant, just a bit on the tip and then screwed it back in.
The saw I'm working on has run away a couple of times in the past as well. That was what caused my dad to box it and never mess with it again. I found the control arm bent out above the bottom of the diaphragm chamber by 30 thousands. I think that is also why those diaphragms have that keeper in the fork at the end of the arm so that when the so called governor vents gasses into the diaphragm chamber it can pull on that arm really jamming the fuel valve tightly closed.
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Which aftermarket pistons do you guys recommend for these saws? Unfortunately meteor don't make one.
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I built one for a guy using espian (might be spelled wrong). Since no meteor offered. My next choice was going to be vec.
@raumato01
Thread talking about 2100 pistons before I even tried the espian http://chainsawrepair.createaforum.com/husqvarna/2100-piston/
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@Cut4fun
Thanks for the link , Ill check those out.