Chainsaw Repair
Husqvarna - Stihl - Poulan - Jonsered - Dolmar chainsaws and more => Husqvarna => Topic started by: woodplayer on July 18, 2011, 10:13:00 pm
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Here are some photos of a 266 I picked up for a cheap price. (It's nice to have a Stihl dealer that lets me go through is stash of old saws!) I found the exhaust side of the piston badly scored and aluminum transferred to the cylinder. The carb mounting block was defective which was likely the cause of the lean burn. The cylinder cleaned up really nice and I picked up a new piston/ring and carb mounting block at ChainsawR.
(http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e331/bribiguy1/IMG_2833a.jpg)
(http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e331/bribiguy1/IMG_2829a.jpg)
The saw runs great and has 150psi. I noticed that there appears to be a grommet/gasket missing from around the throttle link.
(http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e331/bribiguy1/IMG_2837a.jpg)
As well there is a hole in the cover which I assume could be open for winter time as it would allow the carb to draw warm air, however is something missing that would close this hole for summer time use?
(http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e331/bribiguy1/IMG_2840a.jpg)
Looking at things, it seems if the hole in the cover was closed, (and I had a grommet sealing around the throttle linkage) the carb area would be completely sealed?? Where is the fresh air entry for the carb?
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Good looking saw. I have 2-266 and 4-5 61's same style 2 part ign. There is a bellows that goes around throttle PN: 503-4450-01. There is a plug that goes in the cyl. cover for summer PN: 501-6152-01. Any cap/plug that will fit the hole will work. Never thought about where it get air from but it does. Will have to check em out.
Shep
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I had the red version 266, a Jonsered 630. Excellent 8 hr a day logging saw. I know a few loggers who still cut with 266, 630 and 670's today.
Those saws get their air intake through openings below the carb between the fuel tank housing. Clean part of the saw in this area, also less chance of sucking in snow in the winter while falling.
Willard.
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Thanks Farmboy I found a plug to use in the hole in the cover.
I ended up removing the carb to find the air intake hole underneath as you suggested HolmenTree. It's pretty small, only 5/16" diameter. I also noticed a plug in the side of the airbox, any idea what that is for?
(http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e331/bribiguy1/IMG_2842a.jpg)
I think I'll just use some foam in the throttle hole, that way there is another source of air plus it would be filtered.
With the 20" bar the saw is front heavy when sitting and the bar ends up touching the ground. It just has a flat style of dog. I may try to make a small spiked dog that extends downwards that would stop the saw from leaning forward when sitting.
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I had took in on trade a 266xp partial PHO a few years ago thinking I could use some parts for another project. I was wrong and decided to just get rid of it instead of learning another new to me saw. I had got it running the way it was and sold it for $30-$40 as it set PHO.
Whats the difference in 266xp and 266se?
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Woodplayer the large hole where the throttle linkage goes through is the primary air intake hole, the small hole may have been for optional heated handle wiring .
The plug on the side is probably also for heated handle wiring , I could be wrong. Been years since I had a saw like this.
Willard.
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Whats the difference in 266xp and 266se?
Not much, except the 266xps are newer, compared to newer 266ses (after some time in 1985) - but older 266ses had another carb, and a bit less power and rpm - as far as I know, as did the ol' 166se (1978, US only).
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Woodplayer the large hole where the throttle linkage goes through is the primary air intake hole, the small hole may have been for optional heated handle wiring .
The plug on the side is probably also for heated handle wiring , I could be wrong. Been years since I had a saw like this.
Willard.
As I said there is a boot Husky calls it a bellows that goes around throttle linkage $4.00. If it is not filled it allows a lot of dust into carb. area. 61,272,181,281,288,Jred 625-670 all use a bellows to seal carb, area. The small hole in the center is for a rubber plug PN: 501-5510-01 Seal that supports the carb. Holman is right on the plug on the right it's for heated handle wiring. IPL too large to post.
Shep
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Husqvarna 266 IPL http://s30387.gridserver.com/partsDiagrams/Husqvarna%20266.pdf
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I see the bellows in the 266IPL and 66 IPL, and the plug that supports the carb is listed as 501-5510-01 in the 66 IPL and as 503-6976-01 in the 266 IPL.
But this still brings me back to my original question, if these holes are all sealed up, where does that carb get fresh air from?? ???
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Just trying to save back some info on the husqvarna 266 series. I always just got rid of those cheap. But now folks wanting them for some reason.
Collectors maybe. Wonder if they are lighter weight for a 66cc-67cc saw?
Older early ones something about coarse clutches and cranks like on the poulans I like.
Magnus shared = This model got a new crank and clutch after serial 266SE 6024957, 266SG 6080640.
Old crank/clutch has UNC 1/2" threads. Newer has M10x1.
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She is like new inside. Piston witness lines like new, inside covers like new. Lot of psi pulling over.
Working metal chain brake cover. Amazing.
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Few more. Listed on CRG $325 PHO SOLD
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Cleaned up nice. Airing out and hope to weigh PHO dry today.
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Must be tons of these out there. Not much of a challenge to find.
Another husqvarna 266 SE. This one I think a 1982. Has the typical missing brake band in the metal handle clutch cover. Older style muffler and wrong tensioner. Was used by homeowner on farm.
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266 IPL shows 81-93
http://www.barrettsmallengine.com/husqvarna/266chainsaw.html?fbclid=IwAR3G5bmhz4NAUioqPEy9IH9yD7vV8hEf8itzfX4Hp1hPjqJzUTg2e5oVsLY
Husqvarna 266 Chainsaw Parts Lists
Illustrated parts list directory for Husqvarna 266 chainsaw models. Parts lists are in
order by publication date.
View Husqvarna 266 chainsaw
illustrated Parts Lists below.
Husqvarna 266 Chainsaw 09 - 1981
Husqvarna 266 Chainsaw 12 - 1982
Husqvarna 266 Chainsaw 06 - 1983
Husqvarna 266 Chainsaw 08 - 1984
Husqvarna 266 Chainsaw 10 - 1984
Husqvarna 266 Chainsaw 01 - 1985
Husqvarna 266 Chainsaw 06 - 1985
Husqvarna 266 Chainsaw 01 - 1986
Husqvarna 266 Chainsaw 04 - 1986
Husqvarna 266 Chainsaw 12 - 1986
Husqvarna 266 Chainsaw 11 - 1987
Husqvarna 266 Chainsaw 06 - 1988
Husqvarna 266 Chainsaw 02 - 1989
Husqvarna 266 Chainsaw 01 - 1990
Husqvarna 266 Chainsaw 01 - 1993
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LOL tensioner was wrong. So I looked at 266 IPL for what I needed to make right.
This part works with the following brands:
Husqvarna, Poulan.
Model Cross Reference
This part works with the following models:
Manufacturer Part Number: 501537101
Brand
Model Number
Description
Husqvarna
162
Chainsaw - Chainsaw
Husqvarna
181
Chainsaw - Chainsaw
Husqvarna
266
Chainsaw - Chainsaw
Husqvarna
268
Chainsaw - Chainsaw
Husqvarna
272
Chainsaw - Chainsaw
Husqvarna
272XP
Chainsaw - Chainsaw
Husqvarna
281
Chainsaw - Chainsaw
Husqvarna
281XP
Chainsaw - Chainsaw
Husqvarna
288
Chainsaw - Chainsaw
Husqvarna
288EPA
Chainsaw - Chainsaw
Husqvarna
61
Chainsaw - Chainsaw
Husqvarna
66
Chainsaw - Chainsaw
Poulan
PP415
Chainsaw - Gas Chainsaw
Poulan
PP425
Chainsaw - Gas Chainsaw
Poulan
PP475
Chainsaw - Chainsaw
Poulan
PP505
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Well this 1982 266 I noticed scuffing started on piston. Checked psi and a hair over 150psi+. Once up and running after look over. I have a good idea the pto side crank seal is leaking or that other seal they have on them older ones under oil pump.
Also can see the newer switch and how they ran ground. I usually drill little hole foe screw to ground there.
Replaced the wrong tensioner bolt with same bolt used in poulan saws I have. ;)
Also did my redneck fix for replacing the broken e-clips or the plastic one that breaks up and lets the bolts fall out the front.
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more
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more
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Saw SOLD to first guy in line as is for $260 PHO.
Didnt even have to fix the issues. But he said he likes tinkering on saws too.
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Anyone else read this tag?
I was talking with a collector of huskys and he is a husky dealer for 40 years or so. He said his earliest 1982 266 is 6 digits and starts with 0. So this one being 5 digit might be 1981 first year saw. I was reading the 2 as year and he said that wasnt in effect back then. I can see a 81 in black front top area. 🤷♂️
@Spike60 anything?
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What I read is assembly 2220\81
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Not really sure on this. The first number being a "2" makes me think it's a 1982. I need to look in a couple old musty books and find out what the deal is. There's a chart that explains the older serial numbering system in there somewhere.
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Bill that sold them since 78 said his first 266's he got in 82 had 6 digits.
I'm at a loss for this one.
Better pic of the goldish tag.
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Last year of the old serial numbers was indeed 1981. That saw may be a 1982 as I suspected.
I'll try and get you this chart somehow so you can post it. Covers all the saws from the 1970's. 266 isn't even on it; only the 162SE and 61 from that chassis.
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I was hoping someone else would by these. So today I gave in and made a road trip for the 1986 husqvarna 266xp se in transition years.
Also cub cadet 5220 efco 152 if I recall it right.
4th 266 I have had and 2nd of the CC 152.
Working old school metal chain brake too.
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Pulled this from the 268 thread.
This 86 266 is silver tag SE with SE on recoil with XP on top cover. Transition years is what I am told.
Get better pics them above after few days. Got kart racing to do.
Wow, I've got to run downstairs and check all of my 266's and 268's!!!!
This is getting interesting, isn't it. ???
Here's what I found. I have two 268XP's, one a 1988 and one a 1990. The ID tags have neither SE or XP written on them; they just say 268. The decals both say XP.
I have three 266's One from 1985 has SE on both the ID tag, (silver), and the starter decal. The other two are both from 1987 and have SE on the ID tag but XP on the starter decal. Those latter two saws, despite the SE on the ID tag, would be considered 266XP's by everyone, including Husky. That's the way it would have been listed in the catelog, on the box, the owner's manual and the receipt when you bought it.
One other thing I'll check tomorrow are a few IPLs and owners manuals. If as I suspect, the cover pages and such refer to these saws as XP's, then that's how they should be defined. At least here in the US, I think that the transition from SE to XP was pretty much like I said earlier. Other markets may be different, as it's really nothing more than a marketing term to begin with.
However............. let me add more mystery here regarding 254's. I have a 254SE and a later 254XP, and there are a few differences. There is a slight difference in the flywheel side of the case as the later saw was altered to accomodate Air Injection. Different muffler deflector and corresponding contour at the front of the case, different flywheel shroud, and the ability to accept the air injection snorkle are the changes I've noticed....so far.
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From what I learned there was 3 1986 IPL's. First 2 was SE on recoil decal and 3rd later one was XP on recoil decal. All 3 had XP decal on top cover.
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266 running but had pretty good scuffing on ext side. Could tell psi was still great pulling over. So I checked.
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Something I always wondered. If a coarse poulan clutch will fit a coarse husky. If this 86 husky 266 is coarse we will know.
((((Add this up here. No it is way bigger hole))))
The drums are same size on outer.
Poulan saws of this series is partner design made in the husky plant. Lot of husky 2 series parts in them.
No will not. 475 etc don’t fit 266. Thread area on poulan clutch way bigger hole.
Just saving in old file cabinet.
Another guy going to try a 288 someday. I dont even recall if 181 281 288 coarse.
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Well now I am still wondering on this. The 86 has the smaller 3/8 crank threads and the 81 has the coarse threads and 1/2. But the 81 isnt on hand anymore to try on.
Here is 2 coarse clutches and one was on the 81 266. You can see the tell tell a guy showed me on CRG
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Saving some info I just read.
fine thread clutch uses the same style spring, you should be able to interchange parts without issue. As you can see there is quite a bit more meat left on that fine thread one I have here, it looks pretty low time. The friction area is 7/64 at its thinnest point on that one.
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Nice learning video on husqvarna 266. I know I seen alot of the differences when I was buying them and flipping them. But never got into them deep to really learn.
https://youtu.be/8jd9n8Jmz5k
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Lost track how many husqvarna 266 I bought to flip now. Yesterdays pick up. 1983 SE coarse thread clutch.
Going to part it or something I guess. 🤷🏼♂️
Dude took some parts off that was shown in pics too.
Is what it is. 🥴😂
SOLD already. Guy wanted clutch, carb, tank but bought whole clean parts saw.
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More of 1983 SE