Chainsaw Repair
Husqvarna - Stihl - Poulan - Jonsered - Dolmar chainsaws and more => Poulan => Topic started by: Cut4fun on February 27, 2011, 09:54:52 am
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This is what I saw and agreed to buy. PP 475
(http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g289/doemaster789/415/475pp-1.jpg)
(http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g289/doemaster789/415/475pp2.jpg)
(http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g289/doemaster789/415/475pp3.jpg)
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This is what happens when shipper puts big saw in empty box with no padding of any kind. The case takes the bumps when they hit concrete etc bam crunch.
Luckly I have been down this road on my poulan 415 that I bought in a box of parts when a tree won the battle.
So I will redneck fix it if you guys dont have a better idea on fixing the break.
(http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g289/doemaster789/415/BROKENPP475crankcase002.jpg)
(http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g289/doemaster789/415/BROKENPP475crankcase003.jpg)
(http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g289/doemaster789/415/BROKENPP475crankcase001.jpg)
Please if you are new to this. Take the time to pack the saws up right and protect them. Thanks.
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That is always a worry of mine when buying something from someone I don't know. I try to double box and pad all I can in the box I use.
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That part of the case looks a bit weak to be repaired, but I really have no idea..... ???
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That part of the case looks a bit weak to be repaired, but I really have no idea..... ???
It is a weak area from the factory IMO.
This 415 in below link was broke in the same area and previous owner tried to have it welded and did NOT hold.
So I redneck fixed it and these cuts are being made after I removed the crappy welding job and fixed it my way. Still holding till this day.
http://chainsawrepair.createaforum.com/poulan/poulan-pro-415/
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If this shows up, here is my 475 in a piece of oak.
You can hear it still 4 stroking a bit when it comes out of the cut and its set at 14,500.
http://img180.imageshack.us/img180/6507/poulanpro475.mp4
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I went here http://shell.windows.com/fileassoc/0409/xml/redir.asp?Ext=mp4
Then downloaded http://www.finalmediaplayer.com/mp4-player.html
Will see if that will open the mp4 file.
That did the trick. I just didnt have a mp4 video player available on my puter.
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Who got the poulan pro 485 ::) ::) :D PP475 that was locked up on ebay. Just came down.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&_trksid=p4340.l2557&hash=item19c4a850a5&item=110673547429&nma=true&pt=US_Chainsaws&rt=nc&si=bcTfPfwH2qXxLs%252FTqLI5%252Fmc0NHk%253D
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Project 475 under way. Crankcase redneck fixed like I did the 415 long ago and still holding 8) .
Was taking parts out of my 2077 2083 tank and broke the on/off switch wire connection. :( So might just throw the 425 tank on since the 425 needs new crank bearings and seals for it's rebuild.
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My brain is tired and having a brain fart at the moment. What is the bore on the 475? I need to order a ring.
Why your at refresh my memory on 415 445 475 505 bores. I cant remember. :-[
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Some of Marks info to save.
Anyhow after some more searching I found that the part # for the 415-445 coil superceded to part # 544018401 which is a common coil on a bunch of Huskys like a 55 coil.
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What's a redneck fix?
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Redneck = anything I can do on the cheap side without proper tools or equipment.
In this case just a fix I do being I cant Tig or Mig weld cases etc.
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Okay, but how did you fix break?
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I should have showed pics I guess. I did this to 415 and 475. Drill small holes on either side of break in both pieces, about 4 on each side. Lace #12 bare copper house wire and tighten each lace across.
Then on 415 due to someone trying to weld and blew it out I had to use JB to fill void then use steel putty and mold to both sides.
475 I was able to skip the JB part and go straight to the steel putty and mold on both sides.
Something like this. http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/mech_spec_epxy/overview/Loctite-Metal-Filled-Epoxy-Putty.htm or this http://www.dual-star.com/index2/Service/quiksteel_epoxy_putty.htm
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Thinking these are the mm of bores I was looking for last night.
505 = 54mm
475 = 52mm
445 = 50mm
415 425 = 48mm
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Send it to me I will weld it for you. I am still taking on practice pieces. Just split the case and send the half that needs repair. I have done 5 clutch covers, 1 crank case, and a bad crack on the bottom of my 335, and a hole in my 3750. All have gone well so far so I see no reason why yours would not also. The piece is very thin from looking at your pictures and will take a careful amount of current control to get it right without blowing it apart, but I do not believe it would be any worse than some of the clutch covers I have done.
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Send it to me I will weld it for you.
I had thought about asking you about welding 475. But I had such good luck with the poulan 415 fix last year in same area I went ahead already and did the 475 yesterday. It's ready to be put together now.
Thanks for the offer though.
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Well ok I tried. The only thing it would have cost you is your wisdom and knowlege that I could have called on in the future. Maybe next time.
I just got a new computer couple days ago and I am still getting all the favorites set up along with other things. Man is this thing fast compared to my old computer that I used for the last 12 years. I can actually watch a video in real time now.
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Well ok I tried. The only thing it would have cost you is your wisdom and knowlege that I could have called on in the future. Maybe next time.
I just got a new computer couple days ago and I am still getting all the favorites set up along with other things. Man is this thing fast compared to my old computer that I used for the last 12 years. I can actually watch a video in real time now.
1. wisdom and knowledge is always free here now and in the future. ;)
2. LOL 12 years on 1 puter, we couldnt get one to last 3 years.
Thanks again for offer. 8) 8)
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Yes I did notice alot of people here with a great deal of knowlege. Thanks Roger.
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My redneck fix is by know means a pretty fix. But it is still holding up on the 415 and just did it on the 475.
If you want some pics of the final stage I can get those. But the part where I mended, laced together, stitched the 2 parts with the #12 copper wire is all under the last stage of fix.
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My redneck fix is by know means a pretty fix. But it is still holding up on the 415 and just did it on the 475.
If you want some pics of the final stage I can get those. But the part where I mended, laced together, stitched the 2 parts with the #12 copper wire is all under the last stage of fix.
Actually I had read about your fix and saw the pictures of the 415 that you repaired. I believe is was broken the same way by shipping and in the same spot. Really a shame, but that is one of the reasons I decided to start welding on these magesium cases, because things happen to good saws. Oh by the way I know you had done alot of work on some 3750's and I believe you had 3 at one time. I am looking for another one myself so if you come across something I am in the market. Roger
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The 415 was smashed by a tree on only it's 3rd time being used by a homeowner user just like me.
He then tried to have it welded but whoever did it just made the metal brittle and it just fell apart around welded area aka blew a big hole through it basically.
I bought the 415 saw as a box of parts so I didnt have nothing to loose trying my redneck fix.
3750 what shape are you wanting? You wanting TA editions purple covers or just a plain 3750 with black covers?
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Anything that has a good cylinder. I believe I could find the rest of the parts fairly easy. So if you come across something let me know.
I did not know that about the 415 I thought it was broke in shipping also. Well anyways thanks alot.
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I moved most of the 3750 info with part numbers over to 3750 thread.
Pic of 415. The weld just crumbled off taken some more case with it ( Someone tried to weld it before I got the box of parts, it didnt hold, it is just set there for pic). My redneck wire job and fix is still cutting it today.
I'll get some pics of my ugly fixes on 415 475 later today.
(http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g289/doemaster789/415/CopyofDSCF0058.jpg)
(http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g289/doemaster789/415/Copyof415001.jpg)
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Since were showing some welding this is a before and after I did today. I believe it is a 5200 clutch cover. The pitting is very shallow in the pics and will fill in easily and will not affect the integrity of the metal.
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Redneck fixes.
Here is the 415. You can see the lighter grey JB I used on this one to help fill the voids that was blown through both pieces on the attempted weld. It is wired together underneath then JB and then the steel putty.
(http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g289/doemaster789/PP505PP365JD800/redneckfixes004.jpg)
(http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g289/doemaster789/PP505PP365JD800/redneckfixes006.jpg)
Copper #12 house wire I found works really well and is mend-able to form around. About 2" pieces at a time.
(http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g289/doemaster789/PP505PP365JD800/redneckfixes007.jpg)
Project 475. No JB was needed on this one. Just drill holes, wire and steel putty = redneck fix. ;D
(http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g289/doemaster789/PP505PP365JD800/redneckfixes003.jpg)
(http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g289/doemaster789/PP505PP365JD800/redneckfixes001.jpg)
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Since were showing some welding this is a before and after I did today. I believe it is a 5200 clutch cover. The pitting is very shallow in the pics and will fill in easily and will not affect the integrity of the metal.
Must be nice to be able to weld. 8) 8)
I have a very old stick welder for emergency repairs and then it looks like chicken poop. But as long as it holds I'm a happy camper.
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Your fix looks to be strong and holding it together so that in the end the saw can still be used. It gets the job done.
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Do you have to remove paint before JB weld or steele putty? If I ever need to I'll try your redneck fix. Although hope I don't have to.
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It just says clean area. So I just wiped clean and then used rubbing alcohol to clean area and let dry. No paint removed.
On the 415 I was just trying it out and it worked. I'm not one to worry about looks as long as the tool works right.
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Well I am learning the 475 and 425 differ.
After spending 2 different days trying to remove the 475 clutch, today I succeeded. Once the clutch was off and oiler removed I realized it has the metal pressed on worm gear on crankshaft. Guess I should have realized this when it didnt have the same clutch drum as 425 and plastic worm gear.
So right now I am stuck at coming up with a worm gear removal tool for the 475.
Also one side of the 425 crank bearings is different then the standard bearing used on opposite side and on both on 475. That 425 side seal is different too.
Poulan pro 425 445 IPL http://weborder.husqvarna.com/order_static/doc/NIUS/NIUS1997/NIUS1997_530083227.pdf
http://www.keepandshare.com/doc/2870909/nius1997-530083227-pdf-june-14-2011-1-25-pm-213k?da=y&dnad=y
Poulan pro 475 415 IPL http://www.poulanpro.com/ddoc/POUI/POUI1994_USen/POUI1994_USen__530067868.pdf
(http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g289/doemaster789/415/pp425475001.jpg)
(http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g289/doemaster789/415/pp425475002.jpg)
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Maybe the worm gear puller is similiar to some used on the husqvarna saws. Or find one close and modify it.
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Saving info from another running into this on a 2077 oiler redo. OEM part number for worm gear puller 502540901
((The original gear on the crankshaft was steel,15 mm I.D., 18 mm O.D. on the sealing surface, 16.5 mm overall height/length, and about 22.43 mm O.D. on the gear teeth.
The replacement I ordered (503 72 36 01) is plastic and intended to drive off the clutch, 17 mm I.D., 19.75 mm O.D. on the sealing surface, 15.15 mm overall height/length, and about 22.2 mm O.D. on the gear teeth.
All measurements above were made with the dial caliper and converted to mm so they may be off slightly.))
1994 Service Bulletin http://weborder.husqvarna.com/order_static/doc/JBEN/JBEN1994/JBEN1994_B9400033.pdf
Jonsered 2077 IPL http://weborder.husqvarna.com/order_static/doc/JIPL/JIPL1994/JIPL1994_I9400010.pdf
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Project 475 getting a little closer.
(http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g289/doemaster789/PP505PP365JD800/475425005-1.jpg)
(http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g289/doemaster789/PP505PP365JD800/475425006-1.jpg)
(http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g289/doemaster789/PP505PP365JD800/475425001-1.jpg)
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Forgot to mention I had to use a afm 52mm piston for now.
The oem piston ring is stuck in the groove and I havent been able to get anywhere with it for a few weeks. Looks like it will be making a trip someday to Al Smith's place for the kroil treatment.
Used 425 tank on 475 also. Have 2 bare 475 tanks on the shelf.
475 is running now 8) . I am still way short on parts to complete it but hey who need it anyways. ;D
(http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g289/doemaster789/415/475425002.jpg)
(http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g289/doemaster789/415/475425001.jpg)
(http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g289/doemaster789/415/475425003.jpg)
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Looks like it is starting to come together. You do not like the after market piston that you have in it.
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I used a afm solid style 52mm 372 piston ;). Slipped right in with no mods to it.
Learned that the cranks look just like a husky crank I have on the shelf too. Just need to put calibers on them. But they look identical. Also learned a air filter I can use in flocked style instead of mesh for the filter types I use on these.
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Recognize the filters? These are oem 415 505 filters.
(http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g289/doemaster789/PP505PP365JD800/PP5054152083006.jpg)
and here is the flocked filters I found on some of my newer smaller poulans that work. They are just mounted upside down on those saws and carry same number on filter ;D
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I'm anxious to hear how it runs. The 415 is a bad 65cc saw IMO. The 505 runs good too.
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Why re-invent another filter when you can take one off the self. You would think that it could save manufacturing costs. You seemed to have a firm grasp on the Poulan line of saws. I myself will just keep reading and learning.
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I just got done test cutting with 475 in some black walnut I have on hand. ;D Sweet.
One thing I learned on this project. You can use different husqvarna parts from 272 371 372 on it and they are bolt on no mods required. ;) Every time I looked at something, I thought, hmmm that looks like it's from a 272 or that looks like a 371 part and those 372 parts work perfect 8).
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372 big bore 52mm piston?
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372 big bore 52mm piston?
Yes straight drop in no modding.
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WeLL I have 3 runners 415 475 505 so far and project 425 still in the works. Problem is I have 3 runners and 2 clutch covers.
So I made a 3rd one today. Poulan ones are plastic. The one I modified is metal.
Started with this clutch cover and started carving on it ;D .
(http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g289/doemaster789/Clinton268272xp/clinton268272xp005.jpg)
and ended up with a usable cover test fitted to my poulan and yes I will paint yellow someday.
(http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g289/doemaster789/415/475425001-1.jpg)
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And a little orange paint?
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Turned out very good.
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Turned out very good.
I did learn a lesson out of this :-[ :P. The next clutch cover will be done outside on my portable bench with holder. I had magnesium chips, flakes everywhere covering everything on my bench, stool, tools, floor etc. :o
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Those chips will go up like the head of a match in a flame. They will just be a white flash.
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Wow you have been busy.
I know what you mean about the magnesium chips from the welding and shaping that I did.
Well everything looks good and sounds like the 475 runs good.
WeLL I have 3 runners 415 475 505 so far and project 425 still in the works. Problem is I have 3 runners and 2 clutch covers.
So I made a 3rd one today. Poulan ones are plastic. The one I modified is metal.
Started with this clutch cover and started carving on it ;D .
(http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g289/doemaster789/Clinton268272xp/clinton268272xp005.jpg)
and ended up with a usable cover test fitted to my poulan and yes I will paint yellow someday.
(http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g289/doemaster789/415/475425001-1.jpg)
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I was just telling Magnus a few tips on using the husky clutch cover. Being he just smashed the partner 710 clutch cover and he cant find a replacement cover.
Lot of inner trimming to narrow cover up like the poulan one. Also have to notch the metal deflector part around the bolt heads being it sets further back. ;)
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Well, at least I now understand what Husky colored part "fit" on those Poulan Pros.... ;D
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371 cranks look identical to one pulled from 425.
flywheel from 372 and 425 look identical with molded in key too.
You can drop a husky 365 piston in the 425 or 415.
Husky 372 piston would be a drop in for the 445.
Aftermarket big bore 372 piston is a drop in for 475.
Black coils from 415 425 exchange with husky 272 55 etc. Remove the green coils from 505 475 and put the 272 55 in.
One side of seals came back to husky 372 for 475 425.
Both bearings on 475 come back to 372 and 1 bearing on 425 come back to 372.
starter pawls on flywheel look to be 272
starter pulley looks to be from 266 268 272 would have to match up the metal length
needing carb bolts, I just used 2 from a 372 ;)
This is just what I can think of off the top of my head.
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They sound like a yellow Husky. ;D
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adding more as it comes to mind.
metal bar plate on crankcase side 501814801 Husky 61 66 268 272 266 Jred 625 630 super 670
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They sound like a yellow Husky. ;D
Well, that family of Partner, Jonsered and Poulan Pro saws was made at the Husky factory, but they didn't put their own brand name on any of them! ;) ;D
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That makes me want one even more. I am on the look out.
They sound like a yellow Husky. ;D
Well, that family of Partner, Jonsered and Poulan Pro saws was made at the Husky factory, but they didn't put their own brand name on any of them! ;) ;D
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That makes me want one even more. I am on the look out.
Just throwing this out there. I can be traded or for right price out of all my poulan 415 424 475 505 stuff. Done it before on 325 066-660 084 stuff in the past. ;D Like I said I'm not attached to nothing in saws. Just a hobby of rebuilding and working on them.
I have 1 new NOS 475 bare tank and 1 475 well used bare tank plus a back up bar 2077 2083 tank too. I just used the 425 tank on the 475 saw for now being I had the trigger etc in it already.
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What I am mainly interested in is a complete 475 with out a bar and chain. I do not mind if it needs alittle work but I am not looking for anything that needs a piston and cylinder.
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I was wondering about this series actual pho weight.
Mark had already weighed one. 8)
It don't weigh quite what I thought it would either, in fact it was just a hair more then the MS460 that I weighed today.
(http://www.chainsawsite.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=134417&stc=1&d=1272162907)
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371 cranks look identical to one pulled from 425.
Finally spotted a difference in the 2 cranks. Coarse thread used on poulan and fine thread on husky. Didnt catch it till someone else was holding both up looking at them and I looked at them straight on.
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H96OOBhHDMs&feature=g-all-u
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1 more piece for the 475 puzzle. ;D
Now to work on getting the parts for the yellow bare 475 tank so I can put the black 425 tank back with proper saw.
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Was pulling b+c off 475 yesterday after some test cuts and noticed the bar tensioner bolt had dissappeared.
Not to worry the part number 501 53 71-01 or 501537101 comes back to husky 61, 66, 162, 181, 266, 268, 272, , 281, 288 ;D
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Was pulling b+c off 475 yesterday after some test cuts and noticed the bar tensioner bolt had disappeared.
Cut one down I had on hand from a early 362xp. Works for now.
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Improvise and overcome.
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I had trouble with the adjuster coming out on a 371XP so I would leave it tight. Finally, the retainer washer came in at the dealer.
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:o Being some people will pay double triple and more for a plastic clutch cover for the 415 425 445 475 505 series saws. I thought I better go ahead and set me back another metal husky cover for the next project.
I sure aint into paying complete saw prices for 1 plastic clutch cover that was $18 when new like this yellow poulan one. I will just make another out of this used orange cover. ;D
Last pic is the first husky cover I made to fit.
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You can't weld up that plastic like you can magnesium.
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You can't weld up that plastic like you can magnesium.
That 272 cover I just bought has a crack in it looking at pic.
Going to see if it is durable enough as is when it gets here after trimming up.
I posted a pic above of the 1st one I made from a husky cover to compare.
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I see the crack in it. When you cut off the piece for the brake does it leave a hole in the top of the cover? You know with magnesium I could fix both of those issues.
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I will look at the one on hand from the 268 when I go out to clean on that very :o echo. I think it is just a small hole where the brake band ran down through. Nothing to really weld up IMO, will know soon with a pic.
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I suppose by the time you pay for shipping you could buy one of the plastic ones.
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I suppose by the time you pay for shipping you could buy one of the plastic ones.
Yep 8) I'm not going to worry about the hole which is a little bigger then I was thinking.
(http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g289/doemaster789/PP505PP365JD800/670echotest20004.jpg)
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475 2077 oem piston
52mm
top of pin hole to crown 16.75mm
height 42.65mm
pin 12mm
BB372
Bore 52mm
Height 42.5mm
Piston Pin 12mm x 8mm x 36mm
Pin to top of Piston 16.75mm
Stihl 064, MS 640 Meteor
Height 43mm
Pin 12mm x 33mm x 8mm
Pin hole top to top of Piston 17mm
Stihl 046, MS 460
Bore 52mm
Height 39.25mm
Compression/Pin Top to top of Piston 15.5mm
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I am still looking for a crank seal on the Clutch side of my 475. I found the one for the flywheel side and ordered and recieved it but still have not found one for the clutch side. I was comparing the Jonsered 2077 and 2083 but do not know if the case is the same. I also looked at the Husky 372 but once again I am not sure if the case is the same. Have any of you tried a seal from one of these other saws for the clutch side and have it work ok, or know of another alternative.
Roger
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The flywheel side I am pretty sure used one of the husky 372 seals. I'll have to jog my memory on clutch side.
clutch side 503422201 $5.38
fly side 505275719 $3.85
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That part number 503422201 I have tried to find and so far no luck. There are plenty of places that say they have them and when you go to order it, they will finaly get back and say no we don't. If you have a source that you know is good I could sure use it.
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Did you try ordertree or outdoor distributors Ordertree shows it available PWE 503422201 SEAL-OIL 5.27
You may have to order a gasket set to get them I dont know for sure. But when I got my 5000 gasket sets seals were included.
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I ordered some Walbro HDA needle valves from Outdoor Distributors and they were back ordered and drop shipped from some big distributor in the South East. Took about 2 months to get them. Meanwhile I heard nothing about my order.
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Well I just got off the phone with ordertree and they said that they have no seals in stock but they can get them, and that they are still available and not NLA. It will take about 1 month to get the seal and I have an order number. They were very pleasant over the phone, so I hope all will be good.
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Maybe I need to stock up on the odd seals and the odd crank bearing on 425 and cant remember the other one :-[ etc. Never know when they all will go NLA. :-\
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Maybe I need to stock up on the odd seals and the odd crank bearing on 425 and cant remember the other one :-[ etc. Never know when they all will go NLA. :-\
Yea no kidding that is why I ordered two.
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:o Being some people will pay double triple and more for a plastic clutch cover for the 415 425 445 475 505 series saws. I thought I better go ahead and set me back another metal husky cover for the next project.
I sure aint into paying complete saw prices for 1 plastic clutch cover that was $18 when new like this yellow poulan one. I will just make another out of this used orange cover. ;D
Last pic is the first husky cover I made to fit.
Couldnt pass up this one with decal for the 475. Great price too ;)
Roger could you PM or post part number that you are looking for on your 475?
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Good deal I know have bought some for my smaller Poulans when I see them cheap and in good condition.
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Availability: In stock
http://www.ordertree.com/poulan/catalog/product/view/id/43131/s/pwe-503422201/
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I will call them tomorrow. That is interesting because I ordered two of those from them back in Oct. I have my order number so I will see what they have to say.
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I will call them tomorrow. That is interesting because I ordered two of those from them back in Oct. I have my order number so I will see what they have to say.
Would you mind telling everyone your findings so we all can be warned and on the look out for said seal. :'(
That will put a damper on the rebuilds for sure.
I know the 425 has some bearing and special seal combo for $15-$18 I havent tried to get yet.
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I got an email back from Order Tree concerning my order, that the seal for the clutch side on a PP 475 is now NLA. They show it in stock on their web site but it is not up to date. Roger
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Well the more I get into the 475 the less I like. It looks to me like someone did some repairs on this before. Screw heads that are rounded out and check this out.
This is the seal on the clutch side. They had this sleeve pushed up into the seal for what reason I do not know. I have not had one of these apart before but have a hard time believing it was made that way. No sleeve in the IPL that I can see. The only thing I can think of was no one could find the correct seal so this was the fix. Have a look tell me what you think. Roger
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Which oiler you have on yours? Metal pressed on worm gear or the plastic oiler wing? Sorry cant think of proper name.
I know the husky 372 uses a sleeve. I havent seen one on mine but that dont mean I didnt over look it. I am thinking one of the 505 with plastic wing oiler gear might have a sleeve. Will look later to be sure or not.
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The worm gear is metal but even it does not look right. It is not one of the ones that looks like it has wings that drives off the clutch drum. This one was metal and it looked like it had been cut away some and it just slid right off, was not a press fit.
Even though the worm gear like on the 505 that uses a spacer, would not have the spacer fit up into the seal and against the bearing.
The way this thing was set up was a recipe for air leaks. The only reason I never started the saw when I got it was because of the start of scoring on the piston. That was why I started right away looking for crank seals. Then later I decided to do a compression check and the bearings started to lock up on it. I think I got taken on this one. Oh well.
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I think I got taken on this one. Oh well.
It was that guy that makes all the feebay and repair video's wasnt it? I cant remember his username. He got me once on a 166 tank.
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Yep one in the same.
This has now put me on a mission. I have to much money that I paid for the saw to just let it sit. So I am going to yank the seal out tonight and take all the necessary measurements and try and find one that way. Then I will address the oiler problem. Maybe convert it to a worm gear with the wings that drives off of the clutch drum.
It is going to be interesting what I find with the bearings after I split the case. I now have the starter, flywheel, clutch, oiler all removed and I cannot believe how rough it turns over. I will update as I go along.
Roger
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I went and took pics of the 505 with plastic oiler gear with wings set up.
Poulan 505 425 445 IPL http://www.poulanpro.com/ddoc/PPOI/PPOI1997_AAen/PPOI1997_AAen_PP425,%20445,%20505_530083227.pdf
Then I looked at my 475 with metal worm gear on crank. I didnt take the 475 to the seal for a pic though.
My 475 is just like this Poulan 415 475 IPL http://www.poulanpro.com/ddoc/POUI/POUI1994_USen/POUI1994_USen__530067868.pdf
505 stuff
(http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g289/doemaster789/PP505PP365JD800/505pp001.jpg)
(http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g289/doemaster789/PP505PP365JD800/505pp002.jpg)
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Alright so I removed the seal and took some measurments.
Shaft .588
OD. 1.375
Width max. .250
found SKF 6814. Looks like it might work. I ordered one should have it in a week.
When I removed the seal the bearing looked very dry no oil at all from what I can see.
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Did any of ya'll get the 475 on Ebay yesterday? It sold for a little over $100 + ship.
Shep
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Did any of ya'll get the 475 on Ebay yesterday? It sold for a little over $100 + ship.
Shep
No I tracked it from the beginning but that saw looked beat and since I already have one I am working on for now.
Besides the seller was not sure if it was 415 or a 475. I know I was not iterested in a 415.
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Kevin when you worked on your 505 or 475 did you use a crankcase gasket when you put it back together. I looked at the IPL and do not see a part number for it.
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I ended up not having to split 475 or 505 in the end. My bearings in the 475 that was feeling rough cleaned up after flushing them out.
The 425 I have split I was able to keep case gasket as 1 piece and will re-use it.
The 415/475 on feebay for $109 plus shipping. I wasnt interested after talking to seller in emails.
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crankcase gasket should be included in the engine gasket set. 503438301
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Jonsered 2083 crankcase gasket 503 42 85-01 503428501
Nice clear jonsered 2083 II IPL http://www.jonsered.ws/2083.pdf
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Just posting new prices I found while digging for info.
New saw prices when they were clearing them out.
PP 505 (83cc) for $570
PP 445 (71 cc) for $499
PP 505 PHO $500
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Well I got the 475 all tore down. Cranks bearings showed signs of rust. The crank case showed some signs of mag rot where the bearing press in. I had to drill the heads off of 5 of the case screws to get it apart. Someone had rounded them out. I have the crankcase gasket and clutch side seal on order. The piston was scored on both sides and so I am going to replace it with a meteor. So we will see how it all goes back together.
(http://chainsawrepair.createaforum.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=46.0;attach=2217;image)
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Alright so I removed the seal and took some measurments.
Shaft .688
OD. 1.375
Width max. .250
found SKF 6814. Looks like it might work. I ordered one should have it in a week.
When I removed the seal the bearing looked very dry no oil at all from what I can see.
What happen with this idea? To wide depth wise? http://www.rocketseals.com/catalog/o-rings-and-seals-for-u-s-measurements/oil-seals-cr-skf-speedi-sleeves/oil-seals-cr-skf/rotary-shaft-oil-seals-cr-skf%3B7330
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http://www.ebay.com/itm/SKF-6814-Oil-Seal-New-Grease-Seal-CR-Seal-/290617025976
barneyrb = Guys I went back today and there are no more seals for the PP475. The owner of this shop told me that the new bearing/seal assembly (505) will replace the separate seal and bearing without any problem. He convinced me enough to where I went ahead and bought the assembly to replace what I had.
He also told me the reason for the change is this, Jonsered/Poulan had a problem with the separate s/b spinning in the case thereby trashing the case. The JRed fix was to replace the that assembly with a bearing with built in (replaceable) seal and it had a wider outer contact patch with the case and stopping the bearing spinning in the case.
I am building a 415 and using a 505 setup and will report back my findings.
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I screwed up Kevin on the measurement. The shaft is actually .588. I had already ordered one of the others and did not realize the mistake until it came in and I put it on the shaft. So I started looking again and cannot find a seal with that shaft size. I also took metric measurements and it is.
shaft 15mm
OD. 35mm
width 6mm.
I did find a single lip seal that was close to that but it is out of stock until march. So I am thinking that it is probably NLA also. But if I have to do some kind of improvising I will to get this thing working again. I have the case gasket on order and everything is in place except that seal. Too much time and money to quit now.
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Yeah I just seen this post. Thought hmmm 2 different specs.
I am working on a 475 and have been trying to find the clutch side seal. I was told that it is NLA and have tried several places with no success. I also tried to find a replacement seal with no success. Have any of you, who have worked on these particular saws, ever find a replacement seal? The Poulan part number 503422201. I believe the 505 uses a different seal on the clutch side. I could sure use the help. If I cannot find the seal I guess I will start improvising.
The dimensions
Shaft .588
OD. 1.370
Width .250
If a seal can be found with the correct shaft and OD. the width could be modified easily.
Roger
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Everything I tried in the metric size came back NLA.
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Well I have the seal with the .688 shaft diameter so if push comes to shove I will make a press on sleeve out of steel and have the outside diameter of the sleeve match that of the seal and use it. It is a good looking seal.
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So Kevin I will keep you posted on what I end up doing. Thanks for the help.
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anything on 3 4 5. Last one on 3 most of 4 and maybe 5. http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/ecatalog/N-/No-32/Ntt-double+lip+seal?Ndr=textsearchesinbase%2Btrue&sst=subset
I cant remember the SKF number
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I looked at pages 3,4,5 and all those have a shaft diameter of more than 1 inch.
I ordered the seal from Rock Auto and have not recieved it yet. When I get it will let you know.
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I looked at pages 3,4,5 and all those have a shaft diameter of more than 1 inch.
I ordered the seal from Rock Auto and have not recieved it yet. When I get it will let you know.
Guy in Oregon told me he found right seal on that sight. I didnt see it.
Let me know on the rock auto for sure. I have gotten stuff from them before for cars when not in a hurry.
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475 2077 oem piston
52mm
top of pin hole to crown 16.75mm
height 42.65mm
pin 12mm
BB372
Bore 52mm
Height 42.5mm
Piston Pin 12mm x 8mm x 36mm
Pin to top of Piston 16.75mm
Stihl 064, MS 640 Meteor
Height 43mm
Pin 12mm x 33mm x 8mm
Pin hole top to top of Piston 17mm
Stihl 046, MS 460
Bore 52mm
Height 39.25mm
Compression/Pin Top to top of Piston 15.5mm
Meteor Piston for PP 475, Jonered 2077
This is a double thin ring windowed piston. Nice looking
15.75mm Pin hole to top of piston.
40mm Height
12mm Diameter wrist pin.
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That 475 sure ran good with the AM 372 BB piston. It was a pretty nice looking piston
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Meteor Piston for PP 475, Jonered 2077
This is a double thin ring windowed piston. Nice looking
15.75mm Pin hole to top of piston.
40mm Height
12mm Diameter wrist pin.
Thanks I see now 1mm short pin to top and 2.5mm to 2.65mm short total. I really like the BB372 in mine. Gives you a little more intake with the shorter skirt.
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Kevin was that BB 372 piston windowed.
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Kevin was that BB 372 piston windowed.
No it is not, but it is made for a quad port closed port cylinder.
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Just saving pics of the NOS 475 piston.
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That is one good looking piston there. By the way thanks.
The saw is together and running good. I tuned it in some wood and kept it just a little on the fat side for now. Checked the RPM's out of the cut 13,300. I checked the compression after letting it cool down and still holding at 180 PSI. I had to pull the clutch off of a 505, the one on the 475 would not let the saw idle and chain stop moving. The oiler works really well and I had to turn it down to keep it from pumping to much. The bar is a 28" that I had recently did some work on. Trued up the rails on it and put a new sprocket nose.
Here are some pics.
(http://chainsawrepair.createaforum.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=46.0;attach=2632;image)
(http://chainsawrepair.createaforum.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=46.0;attach=2634;image)
(http://chainsawrepair.createaforum.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=46.0;attach=2636;image)
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Looking good.
Can you show me the bottom of the saw with the full wraps please? The full wrap can still be bought new as a package deal with west coast dawgs.
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Bottom of the 475 where the full wrap bar attaches to the spike.
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Bottom of the 475 where the full wrap bar attaches to the spike.
Thats exactly what I was wondering about. How that side attached.
Thanks for pic.
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That is one good looking piston there. By the way thanks.
The saw is together and running good. I tuned it in some wood and kept it just a little on the fat side for now. Checked the RPM's out of the cut 13,300.
You still running the stock green coil? Reason I ask I have read some were rev limited and some were not in green.
My green ones have been rev limited so far :'(.
Also got some pistons today too. Thanks back and 8) ;) glad I could help you out.
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No on the green coil. When I tore it back down to do the piston I replaced the coil with a husky like was suggested. The saw I believe is just tight right now with the new bearings and seals and new piston. I think it will lossen up with use and pick up on the rpm's.
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While I was snapping pics today. Here is the poulan nos tank that I was told was taken off a new poulan 475 at a dealers back in the day that was being used as a parts saw. You can see where a handle was in it and little chaff on right side under handle. Maybe shelf scrap :confused2: who knows.
http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g289/doemaster789/2002envoy/tank5016010_zps661a0df7.jpg[/img]
http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g289/doemaster789/2002envoy/tank5016006_zpsda651735.jpg[/img]
http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g289/doemaster789/2002envoy/tank5016011_zps6bf27468.jpg[/img]
http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g289/doemaster789/2002envoy/tank5016008_zps55cbd20a.jpg[/img]
http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g289/doemaster789/2002envoy/tank5016005_zpsce408dd9.jpg[/img]
http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g289/doemaster789/2002envoy/tank5016001_zps4a87b4b5.jpg[/img]
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Nice. Will help make a nice saw some day. Now if you happen to have a nice recoil cover for a 505
that would be even better. ;D
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Nice. Will help make a nice saw some day. Now if you happen to have a nice recoil cover for a 505
that would be even better. ;D
Might be easier to just buy a yellow shell and make or buy 505 decal.
What all ones you have in this series now?
Still kicking myself over not getting the 445 or least try and get it. Still the only 1 I have saw.
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445,475,505
If I can find a shell for the recoil I will do that. I just have not found one yet. I do not want to order one from craftsman it might end up a different color.
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Nice. Will help make a nice saw some day. Now if you happen to have a nice recoil cover for a 505
that would be even better. ;D
Still kicking myself over not getting the 445 or least try and get it. Still the only 1 I have saw.
I would be surprised if Mark does not have one.
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Not sure of order, but thinking oem 475, meteor replacement, 475 oem, BB372 pistons
http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g289/doemaster789/2002envoy/3citestsaws004_zpsa2ee850a.jpg[/img]
http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g289/doemaster789/2002envoy/3citestsaws007_zps74b3e221.jpg[/img]
http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g289/doemaster789/2002envoy/3citestsaws009_zps99c8391c.jpg[/img]
http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g289/doemaster789/2002envoy/3citestsaws010_zps147272c5.jpg[/img]
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Hey Roger...................... how do the full wrap handles on these feel compared to the half wraps. Same handle thickness? Not skinner I hope like a 166 is compared to the 166 half wrap.
Thinking about a set for 505 green jeans is why I ask.
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Hey Roger...................... how do the full wrap handles on these feel compared to the half wraps. Same handle thickness? Not skinner I hope like a 166 is compared to the 166 half wrap.
Thinking about a set for 505 green jeans is why I ask.
The half wraps on my 505 measure around 25mm and the full wraps on my 475 measure around 27mm. Just alittle bigger which I happen to like for my hand size. So I prefer the full wrap handle, but not enough to go out and buy a set to replace a perfectly good set of half wrap handles.
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Good to know. Thanks for the time measuring and getting me the info. 8)
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I am looking for a gas tank assy for a pp475 can anyone help?
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I am looking for a gas tank assy for a pp475 can anyone help?
Where is you tank broke at? Any pics? Yellow, red and black tanks will work.
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Scott has a red one http://store.chainsawr.com/products/jonsered-2083-ii-chainsaw-fuel-tank-rear-trigger-handle-housing
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Scott has a red one http://store.chainsawr.com/products/jonsered-2083-ii-chainsaw-fuel-tank-rear-trigger-handle-housing
I don't have pics tight now but if you look at the pics someone posted above in the first and second pic you see that piece that sticks out the front and up? The piece where the handle attaches it broke along the line where the air filter cover mounts. I hope this helps. I did not know other models would work, would really like to find a yellow one but I guess I will settle for anything. Thanks!
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Jim show us which break you have on your tank with a pic.
Here is 2 redneck fixed tanks that I have tanken in on trades over the years. 2 different type of breaks and problems.
#1
(http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g289/doemaster789/Partner550/tanks003_zps9ecead9e.jpg) (http://s59.photobucket.com/user/doemaster789/media/Partner550/tanks003_zps9ecead9e.jpg.html)
(http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g289/doemaster789/Partner550/tanks002_zpsc7913718.jpg) (http://s59.photobucket.com/user/doemaster789/media/Partner550/tanks002_zpsc7913718.jpg.html)
(http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g289/doemaster789/Partner550/tanks005_zpsa7943d81.jpg) (http://s59.photobucket.com/user/doemaster789/media/Partner550/tanks005_zpsa7943d81.jpg.html)
#2
(http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g289/doemaster789/Partner550/tanks008_zpsbf3d0910.jpg) (http://s59.photobucket.com/user/doemaster789/media/Partner550/tanks008_zpsbf3d0910.jpg.html)
My last 475 yellow tank to replace the black tank on my 475 if I ever feel like doing the swap.
(http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g289/doemaster789/Partner550/tanks004_zpsdd46ecdc.jpg) (http://s59.photobucket.com/user/doemaster789/media/Partner550/tanks004_zpsdd46ecdc.jpg.html)
(http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g289/doemaster789/Partner550/tanks006_zps3b397a99.jpg) (http://s59.photobucket.com/user/doemaster789/media/Partner550/tanks006_zps3b397a99.jpg.html)
(http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g289/doemaster789/Partner550/tanks007_zps92bfa5b8.jpg) (http://s59.photobucket.com/user/doemaster789/media/Partner550/tanks007_zps92bfa5b8.jpg.html)
tanks om shelf
(http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g289/doemaster789/Partner550/tanks001_zps737d82db.jpg) (http://s59.photobucket.com/user/doemaster789/media/Partner550/tanks001_zps737d82db.jpg.html)
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You do have a few spares there. Nice match on the paint.
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I see that late bolted to the side. Is that something you have made? Maybe that's the answer to my fix. How well does it hold up? As far as a pic of my saw I took a few but I'm doing this on my phone and can't get them to upload but that tank you have pics of looks identical to mine. I've been looking for a tank for 3 yrs (obviously not to hard) it seems odd I couldn't find none until now and you have 4. Let me know about that fix you did.
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I see that late bolted to the side. Is that something you have made? Maybe that's the answer to my fix. How well does it hold up? As far as a pic of my saw I took a few but I'm doing this on my phone and can't get them to upload but that tank you have pics of looks identical to mine. I've been looking for a tank for 3 yrs (obviously not to hard) it seems odd I couldn't find none until now and you have 4. Let me know about that fix you did.
I didnt fix none of the tanks I have. They were traded to me like that (yellow fixed one came in on trade for my NOS 475 tank). Actually hope I never have to see how strong the fixes are and if they will hold or not.
Just back up tanks if one gets crushed etc like what almost happened to the one on my 415. **** the floor of the tank etc.
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I see that late bolted to the side. Is that something you have made? Maybe that's the answer to my fix. How well does it hold up? As far as a pic of my saw I took a few but I'm doing this on my phone and can't get them to upload but that tank you have pics of looks identical to mine. I've been looking for a tank for 3 yrs (obviously not to hard) it seems odd I couldn't find none until now and you have 4. Let me know about that fix you did.
I am the one that put that metal plate on the tank. If you look real close you can see a crease that follows the original tank lines and that crease gives it the strength. It wasn't hard to make, it just took several hours because I don't have the correct bending tools and I am a perfectionist when it comes to repairing something like that.
Once I got the plate built to my satisfaction, all the holes drilled, and everything aligned up properly, I set that sucker with JB Weld and then bolted it all down for good and walked off and left it for a day for the epoxy to cure. I have no doubts it is stronger than the day it left the factory.
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Well I had a chance to use my 475 today to buck up a 40" cotton wood for a neighbor. I have never had this saw buried in wood with a 28" bar on it since I rebuilt it. All I can say is thanks once again Kevin what a great running saw it turned out to be.
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Glad I was able to help out. Just keep me in mind on clutch side seals if you ever figure different one. Otherwise I am just going to use 425 445 505 crankcases from now on.
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I think I can modify the width on one that is close in all the other dimensions.
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I know its late now but certainly could be welded. Preheat and back thin part with copper for best results.
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I know its late now but certainly could be welded. Preheat and back thin part with copper for best results.
I am not sure what part you were referring to that needed the welding. Can you be a little more specific.
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I know its late now but certainly could be welded. Preheat and back thin part with copper for best results.
I am not sure what part you were referring to that needed the welding. Can you be a little more specific.
I'm thinking he is talking about that right rear av ear on the 475 I rednecked.
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Yes, sorry....its not letting me quote. The magnesium cases can be welded. Just cause one person failed doesn't mean it can't be done. Welding is one of those things that an "ok" who knows how to work a particular metal is better then an ace who has never touched it.
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Yes, sorry....its not letting me quote. The magnesium cases can be welded. Just cause one person failed doesn't mean it can't be done. Welding is one of those things that an "ok" who knows how to work a particular metal is better then an ace who has never touched it.
It almost looked like they tried to use aluminum filler rod to me instead of magnesium.
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They probably did. A good trick, if your not sure if something is aluminum or magnesium, scratch off some shavings. Put a lighter to them, if you don't get a blinding white flame, its aluminum. Magnesium if you do....the right filler rod works wonders.
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fossil found a dealer in Canada that could still get the poulan pro 475 clutch aka PTO side seals. $10 something a piece. I got one coming for backups.
I still think the newer bearing seal deal in 425 445 505 will work too. But till I hear from Randy, I cant say for sure yet.
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That is good I also had been in touch with him and have a couple coming in for back up.
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Just throwing this out there. Not a have to do as I can dremel out what I need for my air filter needs.
I've got a NOS poulan pro 475 air filter cover for my new project saw. If someone has a good condition air filter cover 415 425 445 505 with the air filter type I use. I would trade. Other wise I will need to trim the plastic up inside the NOS PP475 cover like I did on my 475 to run the filters I like on them. Might also have to sand the screen printing off.
So rather someone that needs a nice NOS 475 cover to trade for a good cover for my needs.
Also have a used yellow PP475 tank that I am going to trim the air filter plastics out of to use for the air filter style I like. If someone has a yellow 415 tank and needs a 475 tank for that style air filter, I would gladly trade you too.
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That is good I also had been in touch with him and have a couple coming in for back up.
I think the one he gave me at the poulan gtg was one for you. Thanks for giving it up till he could order more.
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Let me look at my 475 to see what the cover looks like on it to see if it is something that I might be interested in doing. Thanks.
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Let me look at my 475 to see what the cover looks like on it to see if it is something that I might be interested in doing. Thanks.
Roger I would rather not get another 475 cover. I can carve this one if I have to use a 475 cover. Looking for a 415 425 445 505 af cover with the air filter types we like and use.
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Let me look at my 475 to see what the cover looks like on it to see if it is something that I might be interested in doing. Thanks.
Roger I would rather not get another 475 cover. I can carve this one if I have to use a 475 cover. Looking for a 415 425 445 505 af cover with the air filter types we like and use.
Ok no problem. Thanks.
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Mike Eash running a PP475 77cc alky saw in a 5ci 81cc class. Thinking it was a Marcel Vincent built MVP475.
1 min into video, big yellow saw. ;) :D ;D
http://youtu.be/5AzS9nXbEr0
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That is one good looking piston there. By the way thanks.
The saw is together and running good. I tuned it in some wood and kept it just a little on the fat side for now. Checked the RPM's out of the cut 13,300. I checked the compression after letting it cool down and still holding at 180 PSI. I had to pull the clutch off of a 505, the one on the 475 would not let the saw idle and chain stop moving. The oiler works really well and I had to turn it down to keep it from pumping to much. The bar is a 28" that I had recently did some work on. Trued up the rails on it and put a new sprocket nose.
Here are some pics.
(http://chainsawrepair.createaforum.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=46.0;attach=2636;image)
Roger if you get time. Could you lay a small inner dawg on the big inner dawg for comparison? I am thinking about getting a big inner to carve on to make a inner. Just to see. :-\
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Fine looking chainsaw
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I am going into town tomorrow and will bring back all my 475, 505, 445, and the 2083 back with me.
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I hope this is what your looking for. There is a lot of difference between the two in size. The small inner dawg came off one of the 505's.
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Thank You Roger. Thats what I was wanting.
Way bigger then I imagined just by looking at pics.
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Just in case someone doesn't know, the PP475 is the early P7700/2077, without the fully developed "Air Injection".
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If enybody needs, on Ebay.de is a starter housing for these[Partner 7700]
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If enybody needs, on Ebay.de is a starter housing for these[Partner 7700]
Link? I looked on 3 ebays so far, US, Dutchland, Europe. Notta for me. Just wanted to see what else was being parted out.
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On Ebay.de you type[Motorsage Partner starterdeckel ]. I am a novice at this computer thing. Sorry. Edit: is on buy now[Sofort] section.
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On Ebay.de you type[Motorsage Partner starterdeckel ]. I am a novice at this computer thing. Sorry. Edit: is on buy now[Sofort] section.
Thats why I couldnt find it. I used Partner 7700 in search.
Using your Motorsage Partner starterdeckel in search = http://www.ebay.de/itm/Motorsage-Partner-Starterdeckel-/161620198674?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_77&hash=item25a1508512
I am looking for a yellow molded in color cylinder cover for one.
Thanks
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Interesting. Starter cover looks brand new.
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Poulan 475 Jonsered 2077 NOS p+c kit. :P 8)
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Is that yours or are just teasing everyone.
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Is that yours or are just teasing everyone.
Mine.
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Poulan 475 Jonsered 2077 NOS p+c kit. :P 8)
Is that yours or are just teasing everyone.
Is that yours or are just teasing everyone.
Mine.
It's Kevin's.........................and he's teasing everyone. 8)
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Just collecting for project orange poulan still.
Have no clue why one of the cats wanted to curl up with it but said what the heck and snapped the pic.
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That crracked me up Aaron.
That is pretty cool Kevin looks like it will be a pretty good runner when your done with parts like that.
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I've been getting PM'ed about someone wanting a 415 475 yellow tank for a racesaw build. I was just given the address to mail the tank to and it was Herb Gringras brother to Jerry Gingras looking for the tank.
Now I wonder if he is building a 4ci or a 5ci racesaw from the poulan. Hope it is a 415 with the quads for a 4ci.
(http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g289/doemaster789/Partner550/tanks004_zpsdd46ecdc.jpg)
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Scratch that last. Herb was looking for a tank for Jerry's racesaw. Wonder what happened.
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Maybe his old one got a crack in it. Was that the 475 you showed the video on.
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Maybe his old one got a crack in it. Was that the 475 you showed the video on.
Yes it is a 415 with 475 top.
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I was just wondering something today while out in barn. Stihl bar on this Poulan series. Being the 475 and 415
were only 2 without bars on them. I choose the 475 for test.
(http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g289/doemaster789/415/p3450x3p30p475%20008_zpsnmvkugsa.jpg) (http://s59.photobucket.com/user/doemaster789/media/415/p3450x3p30p475%20008_zpsnmvkugsa.jpg.html)
(http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g289/doemaster789/415/p3450x3p30p475%20010_zpsaj0qhf3h.jpg) (http://s59.photobucket.com/user/doemaster789/media/415/p3450x3p30p475%20010_zpsaj0qhf3h.jpg.html)
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I did not know you had a 475. Looks like a nice saw.
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I did not know you had a 475. Looks like a nice saw.
1st post of this thread. Has a BB372 piston in it with rednecked fix on av ear.
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Ok I forgot about that saw. Good to see you still have it. The memory is not what it used to be.
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The memory is not what it used to be.
What was you asking? ;) :D
Tell me about it. :'(
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Roger if you notice it has the updated 505 445 425 tank in black.
That way I didnt have to cut up the 2 475 tanks I had with that older air filter set ups. I prefer the newer air filters and tank set ups.
Now my yellow tank on my 415 is the newer set up. Unlike the older 415 ones shown in IPL.
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Roger That new oem 475 piston you got from me was for this saw. But the BB372 p worked and ran so good. I felt I could let you have that NOS piston.
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I had forgotten that you had this saw and thought you have gotten another one is all.
I don't remember you mentioning that before about the piston. I appreciate your selling it to me.
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Tested the 475 with tsumura 119DL 3/8 063 full comp buried rip cutting.
(http://chainsawrepair.createaforum.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=5159.0;attach=14819;image)
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Well how did it do. How do you think it compares to a 505.
Myself I think my 475 cuts just about as good as my 505.
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Well how did it do. How do you think it compares to a 505.
Myself I think my 475 cuts just about as good as my 505.
This is the 475 using the BB372 piston. Hair more intake duration (pic of all those pistons in a row pin to pin shows this).
Ran great and always has IMO. This stock 475 was out cutting a woods ported 505 topend on a 475 at poulan gtg in cant 10x10 timed cuts. My 20" chain made up the difference. That was with me operating both saws. Boy that irked the woods ported owner. :D :D :D :D he kept sharpening his round chain till I finally got 1 quicker cut with his. :P ;D
The chain needs some work (as I didnt touch it yet looked ok for test but not up to my likings) but was surprised how well 77cc pulled full comp 119dl in rip cut.
I could dawg it in to slow it down in rip cut, but you can do that on anything even bucking.
I really cant tell much difference in the 6cc difference of 505 475. Same saws just 2mm smaller bore 475.
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Too bad they don't make those anymore?
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Chain is getting close to the witness mark but sure glad I didnt have to hand file this thing. I put it on the grinder then checked the rakers .025.
Cleaned the surface rust off the bar and went over the rails.
Then thought I would see if the husky homemade clutch cover would clear noodles better. Nope.
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I ran full comp on the 2083 and it pulled it fine.
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At the last GTG I had the 505 I got from you and my 475. Both saws ran excellent and cut through those big pieces of oak they had there with very good authority. I was very pleased to say the least.
Your right Jim too bad they do not make them any more.
Gatekeeper I have a 2083 also but have never ran it. I need to get it out and get off my butt and see how it does. I have some big pieces of ash here that needs cut up.
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The one my friend has is the 83cc version and not the later 77cc.
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The 2083 I have is also the 83cc.
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Strong saws in the 83cc version. Need to port one eventually
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Strong saws in the 83cc version. Need to port one eventually
I would like to see what you could with one of those or even a 505.
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I think it would be strong close to a 385.
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The 505 woods port I ran was stronger then stock but not impressively stronger like I like and it was ported by a guy that knows how to port a super strong 372 OE.
So who knows what someone else can find for one.
I do wonder if the 70.7cc 445 quad port can be made to run as good or better then the 372 OE though. I would think it could be better JMO.
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The cylinder design is more like a Stihl. Should port more like them than a husky.
Get a degree wheel on the 445 and see how it compares to a 372. I have stock numbers for a 372 here somewhere
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The cylinder design is more like a Stihl. Should port more like them than a husky.
Get a degree wheel on the 445 and see how it compares to a 372. I have stock numbers for a 372 here somewhere
Agreed like a stihl on the 475 505.
I dont have anything for checking anymore, like I said I got out of all of that stuff. Maybe Jim has a wheel. Could make a homemade wheel I guess.
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I have a 8" wheel
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I have a 8" wheel
Maybe this winter when things slow down.
I am back into OT mode since moving kid back into college last weekend. Got 2years to make extra dough.
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I have a 8" wheel
Maybe this winter when things slow down.
I am back into OT mode since moving kid back into college last weekend. Got 2years to make extra dough.
Jim I was thinking about this today while in barn working. I have a pp505 lower end with good crank and bad pto seal on the 385 style upgrade bearing seal deal. So could use it with 445 p+c to get number for Mike? Also have a used base gasket that has been compressed from use. Also new base gaskets.
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LMK if you need me to come over with the wheel?
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LMK if you need me to come over with the wheel?
No need for you to drive.
I will let you know when I get everything ready and call. Right now busy with others and OT.
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15x35x5 Redmax 5000 clutch seal .I just read the tread and i remembered :this are the dimensions of a Redmax seal[ or chinese clone Eartquake 45 cc]. Seems that it works on these saws.
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1 side flywheel side is normal 372 seal used on alot of stuff so could be the redmax one. The pto side I think is the odd size seal that is hard to find.
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Glad I didnt sell that 23"remington roller nose bar now.
That chipper or whatever it is doesnt cut half bad. Surprised really. I didnt even touch chain up thought to myself lets see.
Chain pic http://chainsawrepair.createaforum.com/chain/chain-maker/
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Husky 372 has 15x26 mm flyweel and 18,4x26,5 cluch
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Husky 372 has 15x26 mm flyweel and 18,4x26,5 cluch
? ???
I used a 372 seal on my flywheel side.
The PTO side has to be the odd poulan seal or now just use the updated 505 etc 385 seal bearing deal
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Flyweel 15x26 and PTO 15x35[Redmax PTO] .I don't have one of these Poulans[415,475], i read earlier in this tread someone put the dimensions[ 15x35] of the PTO seal and sead NLA. Maybe Redmax seals are not NLA.
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Yes it is the PTO side. The seal is real thin so that if can clear the oiler. I believe it was the 15x35x5.
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Yes it is the PTO side. The seal is real thin so that if can clear the oiler. I believe it was the 15x35x5.
Roger that redmax 5000 flywheel seal he is talking about is 2670-21210 Oil Seal 15x35x4.5
redmax 5000 ipl http://www.redmax.com/ddoc/RMXI/RMXI2008_USen/RMXI2008_USen_G5000AVS_SN608281%20and%20up.pdf
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I am feeling like crap right now but I think I will order one of those seals and compare it to the stock 475. We may have a winner.
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I am feeling like crap right now but I think I will order one of those seals and compare it to the stock 475. We may have a winner.
Cool I was wondering on it.
You still have your NOS seal?
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I am feeling like crap right now but I think I will order one of those seals and compare it to the stock 475. We may have a winner.
Cool I was wondering on it.
You still have your NOS seal?
Yes I still have a NOS seal for the PTO side.
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I am feeling like crap right now but I think I will order one of those seals and compare it to the stock 475. We may have a winner.
Cool I was wondering on it.
You still have your NOS seal?
Yes I still have a NOS seal for the PTO side.
That way you can compare. Still have mine for the 475 if needed.
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I am feeling like crap right now but I think I will order one of those seals and compare it to the stock 475. We may have a winner.
Cool I was wondering on it.
You still have your NOS seal?
Yes I still have a NOS seal for the PTO side.
That way you can compare. Still have mine for the 475 if needed.
Well I would hang on to it for now. But I am hoping that we have found another source.
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New part number for that seal for the redmax. 516806001
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I ordered a seal for the redmax and will let you know in about a week when it shows up.
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Cooooooooool beans 8)
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Cooooooooool beans 8)
I just got an email from mowpart.com where I ordered the seal from and they are telling me NLA.
I went to Redmax parts direct and ordered a seal there. We will see.
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Well I just got an email from Redmax Parts direct and it seems they are refunding my money and that the seal is NLA.
I do not believe we will find this seal except by maybe new old stock and luck. Oh well we gave it a shot.
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bummer
Thanks for leg work anyways
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Roger that number u gave 516806001 has been updated to 513617301 $3.41
Nothing 100% just searching. ;)
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Ok I tried Jack's small engines and will see if he has them in stock. Worth a try.
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Husqvarna 455,460 has 2 seals with the same dimensions 35exterior and 15 interior with 7[i think] . Rubber on metal exterior.
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Husqvarna 455,460 has 2 seals with the same dimensions 35exterior and 15 interior with 7[i think] . Rubber on metal exterior.
The 7mm is to wide the oiler will not fit down over the top of it.
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Found on Ebay: New OEM Husqvarna seal 503261901. 15x35x4 is written on it.
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Found on Ebay: New OEM Husqvarna seal 503261901. 15x35x4 is written on it.
You are right it does say 15x35x4 on the seal. I bought one and will see when it arrives. It was pretty pricey though.
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?
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?
I have not received it yet.
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503261901 looks nothing like the 475 pto seal ( going by memory ) http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.TRS0&_nkw=+503261901&_sacat=0
503261901
(http://thumbs.ebaystatic.com/images/g/E48AAOSwnipWaeOr/s-l225.jpg)
Roger can you post a pic of the OEM 475 pto seal?
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I will have to go digging for it out in the garage. When it stops snowing.
The oem seal does not have the rubber outer edge to it. But it may still work ok.
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I will have to go digging for it out in the garage. When it stops snowing.
The oem seal does not have the rubber outer edge to it. But it may still work ok.
Mine is in a bin somewhere in barn for that series. I would need to dig too. Raining here.
Heading out with family since cant run chains.
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Ok. So I know there was some confusion on the shaft size of this seal due to some of my own errors.
I looked at the OEM seal and the size on that says 18x35x4mm.
So I got the one I ordered that is for a Husky 455 and it is 15x35x4. So the shaft size on this seal will not work. So for future reference
The correct shaft size is 18mm. This is due to the way the oiler is designed on this saw. That was an error on my part not knowing that when I first tore the saw down and measured it wrong. So back to the search you guys. Thanks for trying.
Also if I remember correctly a seal that is up to 6mm wide will fit without hitting the oiler.
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Here is a picture of the two seals side by side. Poulan 475 OEM seal on right and Husky 455 seal is on left.
(http://chainsawrepair.createaforum.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=46.0;attach=16405;image)
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Thanks Roger for pic. I was thinking it had a bigger center hole. But I was off still in memory because I was thinking the metal outer was still skinnier in my mind.
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18x35x7 Viton. Colonial Seal Company[New Jersey] has on there site a seal with these dimensions. Viton has a better gas resistance than NBR.
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The 7mm wide will not work. 6mm is the max width that it can go. The oiler will hit if any wider then 6mm.
I looked up their web site and they provide a number to call with questions. Could have possibilities Thanks.
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They have NBR seals 5 mm wide. I do not know how NBR resist to gasoline and ethanol. If the specs are aceptable maybe you can try those[ much cheaper].
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You can cut 1 -1,5 MM from the inner side of the seal, only the robber coating.
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You can cut 1 -1,5 MM from the inner side of the seal, only the robber coating.
This is true I have done this before with out any problems on other saws.
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I'm gonna throw this out there. Not sure it will stick. Try at your own risk.
Not saying I tried it yet but looks like I'd be willing to take a chance. Ordered two offen' another feller for $12.50 w/free ship.
NOS Honda CB92 18x35x5 Oil Seal 91305-202-000
Get lots of hits on the Googler for the Honda part number. Possibly some would be a lot less with shipping than this Ebay link. A couple of the hits mention it goes behind the alternator or breaker plate of an old Honda skooter, so it is a crank seal of some sort. Might save a few saws from the trash heap.
(http://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/-AQAAOSwI-BWOB2J/s-l300.jpg)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-Honda-CB92-18x35x5-Oil-Seal-91305-202-000-/321910237732 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-Honda-CB92-18x35x5-Oil-Seal-91305-202-000-/321910237732)
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Having trouble seeing some of these pictures. When I click on the icon or the paper clip,
I get: 404 attachment not found.
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I do not know what happened to those pictures. I believe I have them saved on my other computer. I will look later and then post them again here.
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I'm gonna throw this out there. Not sure it will stick. Try at your own risk.
Not saying I tried it yet but looks like I'd be willing to take a chance. Ordered two offen' another feller for $12.50 w/free ship.
NOS Honda CB92 18x35x5 Oil Seal 91305-202-000
Get lots of hits on the Googler for the Honda part number. Possibly some would be a lot less with shipping than this Ebay link. A couple of the hits mention it goes behind the alternator or breaker plate of an old Honda skooter, so it is a crank seal of some sort. Might save a few saws from the trash heap.
(http://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/-AQAAOSwI-BWOB2J/s-l300.jpg)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-Honda-CB92-18x35x5-Oil-Seal-91305-202-000-/321910237732 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-Honda-CB92-18x35x5-Oil-Seal-91305-202-000-/321910237732)
I looked at that seal and I might order one and compare it to the OEM seal I have here. Thanks for the info, this might be the one we have been looking for.
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I took a chance and ordered a couple just in case it is the correct seal, but I don't have anything to compare it to at the moment. The one project I'm working on is a runner at the moment. I've just got to get the cosmetic stuff taken care of.
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Nice info thanks for sharing. Wonder if she works.
Just in case you didnt know. The updated crank bearing seal combo pto side 505 also work in the 475. So they wont ever make the heap pile because of the seal. It is just tougher as you need to split the crankcase now for pto side. 505 updates to the husky 385 390 bearing seal set used.
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Those pics seem to be lost back when the server was switched over.
I get 404 - Attachment Not Found
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Here is a picture again of the OEM seal on the right and I believe the Husky 455 seal on the left. You can see the inside diameter on the one on the right is larger and that is what you need. 18x35x4 mm for the OEM seal. 18 is the shaft size.
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Seals I ordered are in. They are NOK brand, very good quality in my experience. The seals themselves are marked 17.9 X 35 X 5 but the seal lip is quite pliable so I don't see an issue. I'll hang these on my wall and test fit when I have a crankshaft to try it on.
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Just looking up info on Honda CB92 18x35x5 Oil Seal 91305-202-000
The 2nd part #17 is the one shown here and here is the IPL CB92 A ALTERNATOR + POINTS + ADVANCER Diagram http://www.partzilla.com/parts/search/Honda/Motorcycle/Models%20with%20no%20year/CB92%20A/ALTERNATOR%20%2B%20POINTS%20%2B%20ADVANCER/parts.html
I wonder the way it is made if it is one of the very low PSI seals like was found for the 2800 - 380 saws ?
17
OIL SEAL (18X35X5) (VB-TYPE) | Use from Engine SN 910494 to 011752
91305-202-000
$3.85
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deezlfan I do not believe one tenth of a millimeter would hurt a thing.
And Cut4fun I was wondering the same thing myself about what pressure it can hold. I have not ordered one yet but I do intend to so I can compare it to the OEM.
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Poulan 475 76.5cc this saw showed no signs of anything wrong. Pulled 36" ripping like a beast. Psi felt good IMO. Priced it to a guy with used topend and BB372 piston and used oem 475 piston.
I wanted to check the piston etc so I pulled the muffler to see how things were looking on the afm piston. Noticed a scuff right side. So I pulled it down and called guy to tell him. He told me to go with the NOS 475 topend kit I have and I would do the swapping labor free.
Then while down I pulled it down to check seals etc. Seals still good but the crank bearing had rough spots. So called the guy and told him no go on this one for now. Oh well better to find out now then ruin a good NOS topend.
Used pulled 140psi with base gasket, but felt more then that to me. ??? Guessing 8 tanks on the afm piston and rings.
Looks like I will be pulling wild thing 505 apart and throwing on the NOS 475 stuff on it with the covers etc.
Just no time to be splitting and doing bearings on saws right now.
Have a 505 down with a pto seal bad. = $35 bearing seal combo and split. One thing that is a draw back of the update. But is also the same bearing set used on the 385 390 saws.
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One of the reasons I tore my 475 down was because of the bearings. The symptom was that it was getting hard to pull over with the pull rope. When I got it tore apart and pulled the bearings out I could see where they had rusted at one time.
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One of the reasons I tore my 475 down was because of the bearings. The symptom was that it was getting hard to pull over with the pull rope. When I got it tore apart and pulled the bearings out I could see where they had rusted at one time.
Did you come up with a redneck tool for the worm gear removal? I dont have anything yet that fits.
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Saving info from another running into this on a 2077 oiler redo. OEM part number for worm gear puller 502540901
((The original gear on the crankshaft was steel,15 mm I.D., 18 mm O.D. on the sealing surface, 16.5 mm overall height/length, and about 22.43 mm O.D. on the gear teeth.
The replacement I ordered (503 72 36 01) is plastic and intended to drive off the clutch, 17 mm I.D., 19.75 mm O.D. on the sealing surface, 15.15 mm overall height/length, and about 22.2 mm O.D. on the gear teeth.
All measurements above were made with the dial caliper and converted to mm so they may be off slightly.))
1994 Service Bulletin http://weborder.husqvarna.com/order_static/doc/JBEN/JBEN1994/JBEN1994_B9400033.pdf
Jonsered 2077 IPL http://weborder.husqvarna.com/order_static/doc/JIPL/JIPL1994/JIPL1994_I9400010.pdf
Info I was looking for on the 475 worm gear tool oem wise.
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One of the reasons I tore my 475 down was because of the bearings. The symptom was that it was getting hard to pull over with the pull rope. When I got it tore apart and pulled the bearings out I could see where they had rusted at one time.
Did you come up with a redneck tool for the worm gear removal? I dont have anything yet that fits.
I think I took an existing puller I had and modified it with a burr and my flex shaft. It was awhile back.
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About my luck with 372 cases. 3 sets and all 3 need split.
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Stripped the 475 all the way down to where the crankcase could be split. Not going to use the right half anyways as it was the half I had to redneck repair.
Will use a 445 crankcase or other 475 cc. All I want from this 475 was the good crankshaft for the 445 or other 475. All the parts put in a bin and shelved. :P
Still havent come up with anything to fit this freaking worm gear. Guarandangtee ya no freaking worm gear will be going back on with the nos 475 seal and bearings. Will all be updated bearin seal and oiler system from the 505 445 425 stuff.
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This was a piece of a puller that I believe was made for a Husqvarna. I bought it along time ago on ebay. But anyways I took my flex shaft with a small cutoff wheel and re-cut the threads some. It is only enough to get it on a couple of threads but it was enough to pull the worm gear off. If it threaded on any more I might not get the two jaw puller underneath to get it off. Well that is how I got mine off when I rebuilt the saw.
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Roger do you know the part number of the husky part? I have seen about 3-5 like that in a set in past for different saws.
I have a 3 jaw small puller but no way it has the clearance your has.
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Well even the puller I modified so it would have clearance. I do not have a clue on the part number for that.
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Well even the puller I modified so it would have clearance. I do not have a clue on the part number for that.
Just going to save info here from the husqvarna service tools IPL.
Only one I have found so far. Know there was more ( I thought ) about 5 years ago,
Puller, oil pump drive
wheel
For models: 51, 55, 42, 242,
246, 254, 257, 262
Part. No. 502 50 99-01
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For you folks still running the 475 and early 415 air filter set ups. I have a bunch of NOS parts coming.
Told the guy it will take my years to get rid of that stuff as I wont use that filter system. I update to the 505 air filter system.
So if you see something just PM.
air filters are mesh not flocked, mesh is what I like to use on the 505 etc.
I'll try and make a list of it off ordertree for reference for us all.
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Per Ordertree with latest price if shown.
Mesh air filter NLA / all air filters NLA
Prefilter screen NLA
Air inlet tube NLA
Sealing ring GROMMET-CARB ADAPT.OUTER $7.49
AF gasket GASKET-CARBUR $3.51
Air filter cover NLA
Muffler baffle not listed separate from whole muffler assembly.
AF cover screws both sizes $1.20 apiece
Inlet tube cover NLA
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Picked up a NOS PP475 piston kit for the used cylinder I took off. Being the BB372 piston started to score. Figure when I clean cyl back up will have it ready as a extra set.
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Picked up a NOS PP475 piston kit for the used cylinder I took off. Being the BB372 piston started to score. Figure when I clean cyl back up will have it ready as a extra set.
You always amaze me finding these items. Way to go.
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where did you find that 475 piston kit?
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where did you find that 475 piston kit?
Which one out of 3. All different places. ;) Plus a couple others I have passed on in the last year or 2.
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Wow you found
three of those? Anymore? I could use one
Sent from my LG-D800 using Tapatalk
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Wow you found
three of those? Anymore? I could use one
Sent from my LG-D800 using Tapatalk
Whole NOS PP475 topend kit. Cylinder and piston kit.
(http://chainsawrepair.createaforum.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=46.0;attach=19395;image)
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How much$ let me know where to send funds? Thank you
Sent from my LG-D800 using Tapatalk
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I traded 1 of them to Roger for his 475 rebuild. I used the BB372 piston in a project saw instead of the NOS piston. BB372 is drop in no extra work.
You can also use the stihl 064 piston just have to open wrist pin bosses.
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How much$ let me know where to send funds? Thank you
Sent from my LG-D800 using Tapatalk
I will sell it but I have alot in it. So be warned.
I will sell for what I have in it no profit.
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If you end up buying this NOS cylinder piston kit. We might as well put you a box together.
List the rest of the parts you were needing again.
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Yes heard you could use the 372BB. Let me know? Thanks
Sent from my LG-D800 using Tapatalk
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Misc last box of stuff.
All will be sold or traded.
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Send me a PM on what you want for one of the air filter covers.
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Send me a PM on what you want for one of the air filter covers.
PM sent.
They have me wondering about the top cut off the one air filter cover. Guessing for some kind of homemade stack deal.
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TTT for member to see the 475 part saw I tore down from runner. My 505 tank wont be included a redneck repaired 475 tank will be that I took on trade on my NOS tank.
Pics here of tank somewhere. Will dig later.
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Saving info from another running into this on a 2077 oiler redo. OEM part number for worm gear puller 502540901
((The original gear on the crankshaft was steel,15 mm I.D., 18 mm O.D. on the sealing surface, 16.5 mm overall height/length, and about 22.43 mm O.D. on the gear teeth.
The replacement I ordered (503 72 36 01) is plastic and intended to drive off the clutch, 17 mm I.D., 19.75 mm O.D. on the sealing surface, 15.15 mm overall height/length, and about 22.2 mm O.D. on the gear teeth.
All measurements above were made with the dial caliper and converted to mm so they may be off slightly.))
1994 Service Bulletin http://weborder.husqvarna.com/order_static/doc/JBEN/JBEN1994/JBEN1994_B9400033.pdf
Jonsered 2077 IPL http://weborder.husqvarna.com/order_static/doc/JIPL/JIPL1994/JIPL1994_I9400010.pdf
Info I was looking for on the 475 worm gear tool oem wise.
One step closer :o. In the hands of a member here from overseas. Now to make the long trip to me.
Thank You so much. 8) 8) 8) 8)
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Oh your worm gear puller. Nice.
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Oh your worm gear puller. Nice.
Shipped to me today. He said 18 shown in stock in Sweden.
Why our dealers cant get them for us is unknown to me. They all said NLA to them. Dont make since.
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Need to pull the good crank with bad crank bearings out of the redneck repaired crankcase. Where the AV mount had got broken off in shipping to me.
Then pull the bad crank big end rod bearing gone out of it out of the good 475 crankcase.
Also will be giving up that redneck repaired 475 tank I took on trade for my NOS tank way back. As I wont use 475 tanks due to the different air filter systems used. I like the newer 505 set ups.
Still pulling parts but here is where I am at right now.
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For you folks still running the 475 and early 415 air filter set ups. I have a bunch of NOS parts coming.
Told the guy it will take my years to get rid of that stuff as I wont use that filter system. I update to the 505 air filter system.
So if you see something just PM.
air filters are mesh not flocked, mesh is what I like to use on the 505 etc.
I'll try and make a list of it off ordertree for reference for us all.
There surely were differences, the PP 415 and 475 didn't have the fully developed "Air Injection", just like the early 7700, 2077 and 660 saws didn't. At least over here, 1992 was the first "model year" for the "Air Injection" (on the Partner and Jonsered models - no Poulan Pro over here). Unlike with PP, the model numbers remained the same with Partner and Jonsered, after the change.
The timing always made me wonder about the "gap" between the PP 475 (without AI) and the 505 (with AI) that replaced it in the PP line-up. There is about a year where the PP 475 seems to have been different from its Partner and Jonsered "stablemates", provided there never were any 475s with AI (which by PP logics should have been called 485)? ???
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Poulan 475 worm gear puller has arrived.
Many Thanks 8)
(http://chainsawrepair.createaforum.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=46.0;attach=19822;image)
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Some times its just worth having the OEM tools. Worm gear pullers is one of those in my book.
I had run into dead ends with all my USA dealer contacts last year when tool was NLA here.
So I spread my wings out to folks abroad and a member here from Finland located 18 left in Sweden in their stock.
= Happy Camper
Used it today and easy peasy
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Excellent.
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That's fantastic. The power of the internet.
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Looks like all those 475 parts I been pulling off the shelves wont be going to a new home after all :P . Read the 2083 thread.
We decided to just use the 475 crank for a 2083 rebuild instead.
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Pulled the crank from the crankcase today. Was 2nd attempt. Not a fan of the crankcase bolts used in the 475.
T-25 or straight slot screwdriver. 2 were wollard and had to drive a T-27 into to work. 1 still would not work as it was wollard that bad.
So I let out a plan. 1 left cut drill bits or drill and extractor.
Went with left cut drill bit and to my surprise it worked.
Then to split cases without a splitter. Done. Was the crank bearings like I thought. 1 so bad the inner race is still on the crank.
Drawing a blank on how to remove this inner race. Ideas?
Not seeing where any puller I have will work. :-\
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Heat
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Heat
Heat or cut off is what I have come up with too.
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Yep. Heat from a small torch tip right on the race. Hang the crank with that end down and heat the race. Tap it with a hammer and it'll probably drop right off.
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I'd try heat first. It should expand quickly and be able to be pulled off or pried off.
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Looks like I dont have to worry about it for now. Guy needing the crank said send as is. Since he needs the crank for a 2083 with big end out and wants my wild thing 505 cylinder too.
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In case you have not noticed Tamara these are the experts. Looks like your advertising to me.
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In case you have not noticed Tamara these are the experts. Looks like your advertising to me.
LOL it was a website that they consider the top 16 chainsaws by their ratings. 1 was worx other a B&D. I quit after that.
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In case you have not noticed Tamara these are the experts. Looks like your advertising to me.
LOL it was a website that they consider the top 16 chainsaws by their ratings. 1 was worx other a B&D. I quit after that.
That post seemed very odd to me.
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Grabbed some pics while pulling a cylinder off the 505.
475 I split for the crank. It is the one that I redneck repaired the av mount back onto crankcase.
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Never new there was updated worm gear kits for the 475 415 till I found some NOS kits I thought were 505 worm gears. 8)
NOS worm gears, oilers, clutch drums, pto crank seals, misc other parts came in. The NOS ones will work with the updated sleeve that was made to use to update the 475 415 worm gears from metal ones.
I think as long as I use the updated sleeve with this worm gear they will work as 425 445 505 worm gear replacements too. :P
3 pics
(http://chainsawrepair.createaforum.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=5211.0;attach=20211;image)
(http://chainsawrepair.createaforum.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=5211.0;attach=20212;image)
(http://chainsawrepair.createaforum.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=5211.0;attach=20213;image)
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Never new there was updated worm gear kits for the 475 415 till I found some NOS kits I thought were 505 worm gears. 8)
NOS worm gears, oilers, clutch drums, pto crank seals, misc other parts came in. The NOS ones will work with the updated sleeve that was made to use to update the 475 415 worm gears from metal ones.
I think as long as I use the updated sleeve with this worm gear they will work as 425 445 505 worm gear replacements too. :P
3 pics
(http://chainsawrepair.createaforum.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=5211.0;attach=20211;image)
Bought the last NOS kit set I could find like above on left. This one even had the little o ring in it still. Other one it was missing.
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The 475 crank and 505 cylinder left to it's new home on a 2083 in the great white north. New owner said he would keep me updated on the rebuild progress and how he removes the inner race.
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Tommy Fales 475 video
https://youtu.be/M9H98S9n7-4
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I like the way he made that plunge cut so he could make a notch in the back for his jacks. Would have been nice to see the tree fall.
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Yep I was waiting for it and forgot :P. I remember the video from the racesaws day.
Finger ports were in this saw Roger.
Seen a racesaw 084 with his signature across the clutch cover in black permanent marker that he built. Coon was running the saw.
He built one of the meanest 45cc 346 on alky nitro saw I ever seen too. Was built before some shows started to allow the 3.1 in the 3.0 class.
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Yep I was waiting for it and forgot :P. I remember the video from the racesaws day.
Finger ports were in this saw Roger.
You know I thought it sounded like it was wound pretty tight. Some high RPM's.
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1 so bad the inner race is still on the crank.
Drawing a blank on how to remove this inner race. Ideas?
Not seeing where any puller I have will work. :-\
Well being we came up with all the redneck ways of doing this. Here is the husqvarna bearing puller. Shared with me by Onan18 at Hills Ace Hardware and Outdoor Power
Husqvarna part number 531 00 48-67 (not sure why it says 68 on the box) $359.99 531004867
I found 1 other online $50 and 1 local $50 I am going to check into.
Pics below.
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Couple I was looking at.
NTW $53
(https://images.nationaltoolwarehouse.com/images/Product_Images/ATD/ATD-3056.jpg)
https://www.nationaltoolwarehouse.com/5-Ton-Bar-Type-PullerBearing-Separator-Set-P162445.aspx?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI8MGtgt_N1QIVGLjACh1AXgIXEAQYAiABEgJ03PD_BwE
Tusk $60
(https://www.jakewilson.com/images/prod/400/t/tus_08_cra_bea_gea_pul_set.jpg)
https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/rm-rider-exchange/remove-crankshaft-bearing-motorcycle-atv-using-tusk-bearing-separator/
HF $50
(https://shop.harborfreight.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/6/2/62593_zzz_500.jpg)
https://www.harborfreight.com/automotive-motorcycle/pullers/bearing-separator-and-puller-set-62593.html
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Never new there was updated worm gear kits for the 475 415 till I found some NOS kits I thought were 505 worm gears. 8)
NOS worm gears, oilers, clutch drums, pto crank seals, misc other parts came in. The NOS ones will work with the updated sleeve that was made to use to update the 475 415 worm gears from metal ones.
I think as long as I use the updated sleeve with this worm gear they will work as 425 445 505 worm gear replacements too. :P
3 pics
(http://chainsawrepair.createaforum.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=5211.0;attach=20211;image)
(http://chainsawrepair.createaforum.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=5211.0;attach=20212;image)
(http://chainsawrepair.createaforum.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=5211.0;attach=20213;image)
Found them in 415 475 IPL at very bottom http://www.klippo.com/ddoc/POUI/POUI1994_USen/POUI1994_USen__530067868.pdf
425 445 505 IPL http://www.klippo.com/ddoc/POUI/POUI1997_USen/POUI1997_USen__530083227.pdf
SERVICE REFERENCE
1 . Wo r m G e a r ---
Before servicing, determine which Worm Gear is installed as shown below. When Oil Pump Ass’y
Kit #503---776601 is installed, the notched Clutch Drum (see below) included in the kit must be used .
I cant screen capture to show pic in IPL. I aint smart like that :P
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poulan 475 jonsered 2077 2083II 52mm NOS and Used cylinder piston sets
PP475 clutch cover and recoil
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Oh yea nice find.
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Oh yea nice find.
They were on my shelves already. Priced them to some folks.
Clutch cover, recoil, outer bar plate sold.
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What I forgot to say Roger was these were to help that guy south of me with his PP445. To help get it back right.
Worker dropped a hay bale on his saw. Busted up recoil. Clutch cover fubarred some time earlier.
pics
(https://chainsawrepair.createaforum.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=1125.0;attach=21826;image)
(https://chainsawrepair.createaforum.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=1125.0;attach=21827;image)
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Found this thought you might be interested. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Bearing-Separator-Puller-Set-2-3-Splitters-Remove-Bearings-Kit-With-12pcs/142082158415?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649
Shep
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Found this thought you might be interested. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Bearing-Separator-Puller-Set-2-3-Splitters-Remove-Bearings-Kit-With-12pcs/142082158415?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649
Shep
Yep that is what I am getting for next time. Thanks for sharing links etc.
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Gotcha Kevin.
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Andre = Andyshine Poulan Pro 475 with a 505 83cc top end. The cylinder has been ported, but hasn't had any machine work done at this time. The wood is dry 21" black cherry.
https://youtu.be/eXbu18athQc
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We are talking about this in the chainsaw repair group. Poulan 425 445 505 plastic worm gear and might have someone there try to make one on a 3D printer. Jonsered 2077 2083
Also the old metal worm gear poulan 415 475 can be made on a metal lathe.
Also note there is 2 different plastic winged ones that have to be used with different spacers.
Pic
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Last summer in Vancouver, B.C. I saw a 3D printer make a foot high plastic Eiffel Tower in about a half hour.
My concern to make a product like a worm gear for a chainsaw is what type or grade of plastic should this printer use.
Here's a pic.
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Guy in the CR group said he can make them if he gets all the specs.
Some other stuff made on the 3D printers
https://chainsawrepair.createaforum.com/tools/3d-printer-chainsaw-parts/msg76804/#msg76804
https://chainsawrepair.createaforum.com/chainsaw-collection-pics/3d-printer-mini-chainsaw/msg76528/#msg76528
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Hooked up the maker and another guy needing one. Think they are going to give it a try.
I had question about the plastic holding up. = it depends on temp and if i used nylon it would help, i mostly do rc stuff.
i can 3d print anything you want pretty much if i have something to work off of
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Hooked up the maker and another guy needing one. Think they are going to give it a try.
I had question about the plastic holding up. = it depends on temp and if i used nylon it would help, i mostly do rc stuff.
i can 3d print anything you want pretty much if i have something to work off of
1st one will be made. 8)
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2 going to be made so I can test one out and compare.
Stated he will order some higher heat plastic being his normal plastic starts to melt at 300. Seeing if he can get 400 or better.
Pic I showed of it being right there bu clutch. = figuring heat.
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Yep those clutches can get pretty hot. I am looking forward to the results. That sure would be cool if it works.
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Yep those clutches can get pretty hot. I am looking forward to the results. That sure would be cool if it works.
Wonder what kind of heat numbers would be transferred to the plastic part worm gear there.
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I had my 475 out today to cut some of this Elm off. I had not run this saw since 2015 and it fired up and did not even need tuning. This saw always runs great.
It has a 28" bar here in this pic. I could not lift this log with my tractor is why I cut the end off.
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Nice on both Roger. 8)
Forgot to post here this 475 a guy found in Alaska. Found in a pawnshop for 100. He ask us was it worth it as he didnt know the saw. We were like BIN! He got it for $80.
Need to grab the pics.
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Found them. They were already buried deep after a couple days.
Also had a video of it running. Deal of the month year whatever IMO.
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That is a heck of a deal.
I have to say Kevin the 475 I have is the one I rebuilt back in 2012. That is the one I got the new OEM piston from you and installed. This saw seems to have really great compression and always cuts and runs great.
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Dang it's been that long since all that went down. :o :o
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I ended up ordering a set of those big west coast dawgs spikes that came with the full wraps. Felt I could use them on the 505 with 32".
I hated the small dawgs on the 385xp when using the 32" and wished I had had the bigger set on it. So getting a set while I still can for 505.
Guy I sold 385 to local first thing he did was pull the small dawgs and put on bigger dawgs with his 32" set up.
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Dang it's been that long since all that went down. :o :o
I was still living in Cali and before I retired. At the time I rebuilt it before it was even broke in the compression was around 190 PSI.
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Ask the guy in thread on update making the plastic poulan worm gears for testing on the CR-G. He stated he has the oem part on hand and just hasnt had time to set up to make them yet.
503434301
* This product is not available in the requested quantity. 1 of the items will be backordered.
$22.27
503434201
* This product is not available in the requested quantity. 1 of the items will be backordered.
$15.90
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Hey Roger...................... how do the full wrap handles on these feel compared to the half wraps. Same handle thickness? Not skinner I hope like a 166 is compared to the 166 half wrap.
Thinking about a set for 505 green jeans is why I ask.
The half wraps on my 505 measure around 25mm and the full wraps on my 475 measure around 27mm. Just alittle bigger which I happen to like for my hand size. So I prefer the full wrap handle, but not enough to go out and buy a set to replace a perfectly good set of half wrap handles.
I was wondering about this. Great info Roger.
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First one I seen like this besides one of my 415.
This 475 has the cover like my later 415 that has the updated air filter and tank set up. Wish I could see under cover too.
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That is different. First time I have seen that on a 475. I had mine out the other day bucking some big spruce. The saw still performs great.
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Been getting calls from the UK :o. Guy tracked me down by calling a old poulan dealer I have dealt with here in the states. Looks like I maybe sending the NOS 475 topend to help him repair a guys partner 7700 with the air injection. Figured he could just leave the tube off.
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Pics of the partner 7700 cylinder dont have the air injection area on cylinder like the 505 or the partner 7700IPL shows.
Having to size pics.
Must have early and later like 2077 does
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Guess a tree claimed another 475. But shop says its repairable.
Now I got someday calling saying they was told to get hold of me for a 475 tank. I was like sure I can pull one from a running saw for you or just sell you the updated 425 445 505 415 style tank. They ran it by the owner and they want it back the same as 475 used.
Told them no problem I will pull it from saw I just got and sell bare. Will pull all the parts from it to install into another 425 or 505 tank for my saw.
This tank I will sell them if they want it. I like the updated ones better anyways. ;)
Full wrap AV lower right 504125014
AV top right 501269702
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NOS 475 P+C off to the UK to live on a partner 7700.
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475 in another guys shop. Just looking at the area going into the rubber tube to carb.
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That round metal piece that goes in there for holding that section together seems kind of flimsy to me. I made one out of thicker metal on my Frankensaw.
That would be the rubber intake to the plastic handle and carb.
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Thought you ran the updated tank and air filter system on the 505 with red tank?
If not, you talking about the outer piece that in on carbed end?
Think I have some of those NOS still. Metal ring piece on the rubber inlet tubes?
Old pic, lot of stuff gone.
Later updated tank in red.
You seen what Bob had to say about the early air filter system? = Bob Morrison I was involved in the development of that saw. The original-style air filter on the 415 and 475 didn't work. Took me about two years to convince the Swedes of that.
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Seals I ordered are in. They are NOK brand, very good quality in my experience. The seals themselves are marked 17.9 X 35 X 5 but the seal lip is quite pliable so I don't see an issue. I'll hang these on my wall and test fit when I have a crankshaft to try it on.
Just looking up info on Honda CB92 18x35x5 Oil Seal 91305-202-000
The 2nd part #17 is the one shown here and here is the IPL CB92 A ALTERNATOR + POINTS + ADVANCER Diagram http://www.partzilla.com/parts/search/Honda/Motorcycle/Models%20with%20no%20year/CB92%20A/ALTERNATOR%20%2B%20POINTS%20%2B%20ADVANCER/parts.html
I wonder the way it is made if it is one of the very low PSI seals like was found for the 2800 - 380 saws ?
17
OIL SEAL (18X35X5) (VB-TYPE) | Use from Engine SN 910494 to 011752
91305-202-000
$3.85
deezlfan I do not believe one tenth of a millimeter would hurt a thing.
And Cut4fun I was wondering the same thing myself about what pressure it can hold. I have not ordered one yet but I do intend to so I can compare it to the OEM.
Besides the NOS pto crank seals a few of us have for these. What ended up being the end game for something else to use for these?
Guy in CRG said he has luck with hard to find crank seals here. https://www.avxseals.com/?fbclid=IwAR1rbisryUImHbYT30mQC413PmYWz_W3pgiumqhxRCIGzUyBbBXQKAChYDE
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The 7mm wide will not work. 6mm is the max width that it can go. The oiler will hit if any wider then 6mm.
I looked up their web site and they provide a number to call with questions. Could have possibilities Thanks.
Roger, Garrett in my CRG FB came up with a work around for the 2077 415 475 PTO side NLA seal.
Shown in pic. Ethan made one for his 415 local to me too.
This is something you can make too.
Keeps from having to split and use the updated PTO side crank bearing and seal set up from 425 445 505 2083.
Both from Ohio and Garrett said he will make some for sale as he is making them.
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Interesting. That is a pretty cool idea. I never would have thought of that, but I can see it would work very well.
I actually have two of the OEM seals that I have been hoarding just in case I ever needed one again.
I also have grown to be more partial to the 505 than the 475. The last mod I did on that one with the MS660 piston is such a but kicker.
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Interesting. That is a pretty cool idea. I never would have thought of that, but I can see it would work very well.
I actually have two of the OEM seals that I have been hoarding just in case I ever needed one again.
I also have grown to be more partial to the 505 than the 475. The last mod I did on that one with the MS660 piston is such a but kicker.
I had 3 left pto side. But sold them all as I went as far as I could learning in this series. So been selling all of it off.
Yep 505 or 445 was my choices of that series. Then 425 or the later 415 with updated tank and af filters. 475's got sold off or parted after the one I owned.
https://youtu.be/s2YYSjFNu5k
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1990 PP 475 with the Gen2 tank and updated air filter set up. I dont think it came this way myself. My 1990 ones all the older tank set ups.
My 1992 415 used this set up that was sold at TSC.
So we are trying to figure out if replaced or not at one time.
Updated : = Even if not original to that saw. He thinks used as replacement on the saw too. Could have been early in saws life.
Having that Gen2 tank is a plus to that saw.
1992 was when you seen old Gen1 415 and then Gen2 415. So guessing somewhere in that year.