Chainsaw Repair
Chain - Grinders - Filing - Wood Milling - Tools - Welding - Machinist - Mowers - Tillers => Mowers Tillers Tractors etc => Topic started by: dannyupsolate on March 26, 2015, 11:39:42 pm
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Be glad to help any of you with lawn mower or tiller questions since I am still a chainsaw newby.
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Ok thanks.
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Saw your post in another thread. Looked like you got it all worked out. Sold a tiller today and got a bolens rider finished. About ready to throw a rusty tecumseh carb as far as I can throw it.
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You guys think we need a mower, tiller etc board? Or does other gas OPE board ok for this.
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Sounds like it would cut down confusion.
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Well it sounds like people here work on a lot of garden equipment other then saws. We can always try a mower tiller board and if it does not pan out then get rid of it.
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Moved some past mower and tiller threads here now.
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Mowers is one place I need alot of help in still. I only do my own to save $.
Think I have 4 riders and 3 push. 1 5hp walk behind tiller, 1 pull behind atv or mower tiller, then the small mini tillers.
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I am with you Kevin I have been learning as I go.
I did use my riding mower today and it works great except I had the drive belt for the rear wheels come off twice.
It could be that the belt is stretched out to far. I think I am going to go ahead and replace it.
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Has to be a loose belt a lazy idler pulley or rarely a rusted out rear pulley. If drive belt is on inch use your favorite automotive belt often deck belts are on half inch.
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Has to be a loose belt a lazy idler pulley or rarely a rusted out rear pulley. If drive belt is on inch use your favorite automotive belt often deck belts are on half inch.
I will check out the idler pulley when I take the old belt off. Thanks for the tip.
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Lazy idler can take form of rust, or a weak spring, bad bearing in pulley itself or that marvel of engineering the plastic idler pulley worn half in two.