Chainsaw Repair

Husqvarna - Stihl - Poulan - Jonsered - Dolmar chainsaws and more => Husqvarna => Topic started by: John Mc on June 02, 2015, 01:02:54 pm

Title: Clutch drum removal ?
Post by: John Mc on June 02, 2015, 01:02:54 pm
Newby maintenance question here (I've not done much maintenance beyond cleaning/swapping filters, deburring bars, sharpening chains, and replacing a recoil spring).

My cousin has a 455 with a badly worn spur sprocket. I'd like to replace this with the rim sprocket style. I've heard of folks doing this with an impact wrench (and not bothering with a piston stop, or the rope trick). I assume you need a clutch removal tool to do this, so you have something to put the impact wrench on.

Is using an impact wrench a bad idea? Is it likely to cause damage? (Yes, I know it's left hand thread.) When replacing the drum, I assume I do not want to use an impact wrench - possibly more likely to damage than when installing. I'm wondering of it's necessary to really torque this back on, or if just normal use will tighten it up, since it's a left hand thread. Is that correct?

Does Husky use the same removal tool across a range of saws?  I currently have a Jonsered 2152 and a Husky 357XP, both of which wil need a rim sprocket replaced before too long. When one of these finally dies, I'll probably replace it with a 550XP or a 555/562XP depending on which saw craps out. Do any of these use the same removal tool?

I don't mind using a hammer and old screwdriver with a rope in the sparkplug hole to remove the old drum, but if the impact wrench is safe, and since I'm planning on doing this myself from now on, rather than paying someone else, the ease of just firing up an impact wrench for removal sure sounds interesting.

Are there other things I should be doing while the drum is off? Replace the bearing? Check condition of oiler parts (all saws seem to be oiling well at this point)?  See if I can figure out why my 2152 has leaked bar oil when stored since it was new?
Title: Re: Clutch drum removal ?
Post by: 660magnum on June 02, 2015, 01:37:20 pm
I have a 346 and several 365/372 Husqvarnas. The 346 clutch tool is different from the one for the 365/372 saws

I put the impact tool on "turn to the right" and give it a bump with the trigger and the clutch spider is off.
Title: Re: Clutch drum removal ?
Post by: Philbert on June 02, 2015, 09:53:25 pm
I use the special clutch removal tools.  This video shows 'an alternative' method with a screwdriver, if you are willing to take a chance - of course, he is doing this on a brand new saw, so things always go better (occurs around 3:17):   
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aAtqBtAbmGE 

Note that if you are changing from a spur to a rim sprocket, you may also need to change your oil pump gear, as the end of the spur or splines drives this gear.  This was an unexpected surprise on my Husqvarna 353.

Philbert


Title: Re: Clutch drum removal ?
Post by: John Mc on June 03, 2015, 08:50:48 am
Thanks, Philbert. I had wondered about the oiler. I know some saws require some changes there, Wasn't sure if the 455 is one of them.
Title: Re: Clutch drum removal ?
Post by: old guy on June 03, 2015, 10:55:01 am
I certainly wouldn't pound on that clutch where he did, if you look just below his screwdriver in the vid you will see an angled notch in the clutch, this is what I always use, I have never seen one come off that easy, most take 5 or 10 sharp smacks with the hammer, if you hit that point where he did it will break or deform.
  I don't use a piston stop, I just bring it up to comp and use a short punch & hammer, a punch is better than a screwdriver
as it absorbs less of the hammers energy.
 A piston stop or rope would be better but I never have one handy.

  John

       

Title: Re: Clutch drum removal ?
Post by: 660magnum on June 03, 2015, 11:59:48 am
Don't be using a metal piston stop to remove the clutch or you may damage the piston.
Title: Re: Clutch drum removal ?
Post by: Philbert on June 03, 2015, 01:26:14 pm
I certainly wouldn't pound one that clutch where he did, if you look just below his screwdriver in the vid you will see an angled notch in the clutch, this is what I always use,  . . . a punch is better than a screwdriver . . .

Agreed!

I carry some short lengths of cord with my CS tools, and have clutch removal tools for my saws - might not have them so someone else's.  Boot lace sounds like a good way to improvise in the field. Although, last time, I ended shearing off one end of the cord in the exhaust port - ended up having to pull the muffler to recover it!

Philbert

Title: Re: Clutch drum removal ?
Post by: srcarr52 on June 03, 2015, 02:07:37 pm
I've seen a scrench and a brick used in the field to take a clutch off. No piston stop necessary, just roll it back to the compression part of the stroke and wail away.
Title: Re: Clutch drum removal ?
Post by: John Mc on June 03, 2015, 02:53:18 pm
What about putting it back on? Am I correct in thinking I can just snug it up as tight as I can by hand, then cut some wood to tighten it the rest of the way?
Title: Re: Clutch drum removal ?
Post by: 660magnum on June 03, 2015, 04:34:44 pm
That's what I do
Title: Re: Clutch drum removal ?
Post by: old guy on June 03, 2015, 04:37:36 pm
Yup, me too.

  John
Title: Re: Clutch drum removal ?
Post by: 660magnum on June 03, 2015, 04:39:30 pm
Be sure and put everything all together and stick it into some wood right away.

I've heard all kinds of clutch flying off stories.
Title: Re: Clutch drum removal ?
Post by: John Mc on June 03, 2015, 05:16:10 pm
Thanks, guys.  Now I just need to do a bit of research on whether there are parts to swap to drive the oiler properly, an dI should be ready to go.
Title: Re: Clutch drum removal ?
Post by: Eccentric on July 14, 2015, 05:41:40 am
What about putting it back on? Am I correct in thinking I can just snug it up as tight as I can by hand, then cut some wood to tighten it the rest of the way?

That's it exactly..........and is also why it's a bad idea to run the saw without a b/c..............especially if you haven't ran it with a chain since installing the clutch.  They can and will spin right off and do bad things.....
Title: Re: Clutch drum removal ?
Post by: wild262 on July 14, 2015, 10:22:34 am
Good advice from everyone here.  I made me a clutch removal socket from a used deep well 1/2" drive socket.   Used a commercial  one from my neighbor many years ago and got an idea and copied it and made my own.  Easy to do.  I regulate my impact drivers psi down to 40-60lbs. and go up from there if I need more force.  Most of the time it don't take a lot.  I use the starter pulley rope and it works good so far.  Have to be careful with ported saws as it likes to find its way in one of them.  Bring your piston to almost TDC before inserting the rope, and it will prevent this.   Never tried the screwdriver method and don't think I need to.   Stick it in wood as was said earlier and you should be good to go. 
Title: Re: Clutch drum removal ?
Post by: aclarke on July 14, 2015, 11:09:27 am
Start the saw with the chain brake on to avoid having the clutch gly off if you're not tightening the clutch with a wrench
Title: Re: Clutch drum removal ?
Post by: John Mc on July 27, 2015, 10:44:25 am
Thank for all the advice, everyone. I finally got back out for a visit and swapped the clutch drum. I used a punch and hammer in the slots designed for that, and it came off after half a dozen raps. Did not need the rope in the piston. I did not need to replace the oiler gear.

I put some grease on the bearing and wiped a bit on the bore of the clutch drum and on the crankshaft, put it all back together and cut some wood right off the bat to tighten things up. Everything went as expected, and it's working fine. I showed the owner how to do it while I was at it, so he can replace the rim sprocket next time it's needed. (Owner's son is a bit hard on saws, and likes to keep cutting with a dull chain, so he puts wear on things faster than might otherwise be expected. I've given him a few sharpening lessons, but the need for it doesn't seem to have sunken in yet.)
Title: Re: Clutch drum removal ?
Post by: wild262 on July 27, 2015, 12:50:16 pm
If the boy is getting in the dirt with it, then recommend him to get a semi-chisel chain till he learns.  May cut down on the sharpening some, and will be much better on the saw.  Mostly, he needs to be safe, and the first step is allways use a sharp chain & learn how to keep it that way.  I got 4 grandsons to teach someday soon.  What fun  :)
Title: Re: Clutch drum removal ?
Post by: John Mc on July 27, 2015, 02:48:45 pm
I suspect the problem is less about the type of chain he is using, and more a matter of him noticing that it's dull and choosing to do something about it. All of the other pointers I've given him he's taken to quickly (using PPE; looking for overhead hazards before starting work; waiting for a moment after the tree falls and re-looking for hazards, rather than just charging in; having clear escape route planned prior to felling; avaoiding use of the kickback zone of the bar). For some reason, sharpening just hasn't stuck with him.