Chainsaw Repair
Husqvarna - Stihl - Poulan - Jonsered - Dolmar chainsaws and more => Poulan => Topic started by: Cut4fun . on November 05, 2011, 11:40:56 pm
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I was able to start taking my new to me project saw apart this evening. Model # 358356070 - Craftsman 3.0 18 in.
So far just pulled all the AV's to see which ones were needing replaced.
Mount PART NUMBER: 27238 Substitution: 530027393
Isolator PART NUMBER: 27236 Substitution: 530042080
IPL http://parts.sears.com/partsdirect/part-model/Craftsman-Parts/Chainsaw-Parts/Model-358356070/0247/1503220;jsessionid=o2KVwLKD9h-5Y-zp0sO43A**.pdapp402vert1
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Kevin, pull the muffler on that to verify for me that the Craftsman 3.0 versions were all unplated cyls will you?
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I got a little further yesterday tearing down and checking over very slowly. Will pull muffler.
Looked through plug hole yesterday and carb looking at intake side of piston and exhaust side of cyl. Looks good so far.
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Mark pulled muffler and it was darker grey inside cylinder. Does this mean a plated piston then?
Would the 3300 saws all look like this I wonder too. I haven't looked in the 3300 I picked up or the one my dad bought new in 80's.
UPDATE: Yes bare bore and plated piston on the 3.0 grey 3000 ;) ;D and 3300
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Got the new front AV in. Had rest of AV parts on hand and installed. Ran new impulse, tank vent and fuel lines. Being the old ones crumbed at my touch. Gutted muffler and didnt even have to rebuild carb. Runs great, oiler works and ready for it's test session in the woods.
Thanks for the trade ;), this is a saw I understand and can use.
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Like I said that one was what my little bud went in the tree biz with maybe 20 years ago .That saw, a pick up with a set of plywood sides and a set of gaffs and a belt . He's came a long way since .
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Like I said that one was what my little bud went in the tree biz with maybe 20 years ago .That saw, a pick up with a set of plywood sides and a set of gaffs and a belt . He's came a long way since .
I found a oem factory dated sticker on it for 1985.
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That would be about right .He bought it second hand from a tree service he used to work for . As it turned out the owner of said business is now his foremen on the jobs .
As he got some more money he did end up with a few more saws namely a little Echo trim saw and an 038 mag both of which I own now .Geeze I kept the Stihl running for 10 years on a wing and a prayer .I became so familar with that saw I could disassemble it blindfolded .Still runs though and runs well ---for a moment . ;D
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Test cuts made. Good to go. 8)
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What is the bar mount for this saw? A041? Have one at the shop in mint con that needs a bar.
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K041 in 325 usually on that saw.
A041 is same mount (not sure anymore) I think but is usually in 3/8 low profile. K041 comes in 325 and 3/8.
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I thought that was the mount, but all I could find up here was the A041 Oregon and PU Windsor mount. Thanks
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I added more Art.
You can use a K095 mount too. I use one on a poulan 365 and huskys back and forth.
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The owner brought the saw in with a new K095 bar bought at another shop. It would not oil as the hole was in the wrong place. Saw oils thru the adjuster hole in the bar. K095 hole is in the wrong place.
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Thats what I meant to include. Just open up where it goes to bar adjuster stud and it will oil. 5min job. Just go through bar groove drive link area down. Sometimes the K095 bar adjust hole has to be ovaled to fit.
On K041 I just drill husky oiler hole and use back forth too.
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So if the above craftsman number is the grey 3.0. What does 358.356280 come back to 2.8 or 3.3 ?
Never mind, that was to easy to find. Going by this front cover 2.8 craftsman chainsaw
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The difference between "K" and "A" on Oregon bar mounts is the rear of rail on bar mount (chain entrance). The distance from chain entrance (rear most corner of bar mount) to centerline of bar slot is greater on "K" mount. The "A" is intended for small diameter sprockets which are typically for 1/4 or 3/8 mini chain sprockets. The "K" is typically used for 7 tooth .325 or 3/8 chain sprockets. The "K" was initially designed to reduce chain jumping with smaller displacement fast accelerating chainsaws equipped with .325 on the small bars. As the chain entrance is higher, the chain drivelink coming off sprocket would enter the bar rail quicker and therefore have less chance of jumping.
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This is good information to keep in mind as I have some saw combinations that violate the size of the bar mouth relative to the sprocket diameter.
Not on Poulans but on Dolmar, Husqvarna, and Stihls.
So far, I have not had any trouble with them, but I know the potential is there.
When you are setting up a chainsaw, it is a good idea to be observant of the size of the mouth of the bar relative to how the chain flows onto and off the sprocket.
Most of my problems are running 8 pin rims on setups intended for 7 pin rims.
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Very glad I checked out this thread tonight. I had completely forgotten about a Poulan/Sears cross over older, light weight saw I left under my work bench over a year ago when I determined it needed a new fuel line and filter, my best guess. Definitely could have used it yesterday if it was running. Your discussion brought it to mind and even included some additional considerations if the problem is not limited to the fuel line and/or filter. Always come up with something I find of value when checking out this forum. Will get after that Sears/Poulan the first thing tomorrow.
Nick, North West Farmer
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Don't forget the impulse line. Most I've worked on were rotten. Use black rubber fuel hose 3/32" x 3/16". ModifiedMark IIRC said Tygon won't last and def. don't use vacuum hose from auto parts store.
Shep
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Tygon does not hold up well to elevated temperatures.
My experience with Tygon impulse hose connected to the cylinder base gets too soft and either comes off or expands and contracts with the crankcase pulses with diminished impulse action at the carb pump diaphragm.
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I bought a impulse hose for a Dolmar 7900 and when I got it, there was one meter of it, so I have enough genuine impulse hose to last me a while. It is nice heavy stuff.
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I bought a impulse hose for a Dolmar 7900 and when I got it, there was one meter of it, so I have enough genuine impulse hose to last me a while. It is nice heavy stuff.
This came from your local dealer this way? 3' of impulse line
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From Determan's via Central Power in Columbus
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From Determan's via Central Power in Columbus
I have the echo stihl part #'s buried somewhere. Whats the part # for the dolmar impulse line you ordered and got 3' ?
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It says on the ipl that it is only 65mm long but I got a one meter package of it. 65mm = 2.559"
965 452 660 is the number I ordered
There's a scan number on it too. 0 88381 38199 4 The label says "Dolmar"
On the tube it is imprinted over and over again "EPA-MGX-FA" It is redish and heavy wall.
I entered that number on Edge and Engine and it didn't return anything.
I entered the number on Google and found discrepancies as some being 120mm and others being one meter. Dolmar 965 452 660
There's also 965 452 380
http://www.jackssmallengines.com/Parts-Lookup/965452380/376574/PL
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965 452 380 supersedes to 965 452 382 in some places
At Edge and Engine
http://www.edgeandengine.com/store/catalogsearch/result/?q=965452382
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Finally pics of the grey craftsman 3.0 49cc I call grey 3000 ;D :D bare bore, chrome piston though.
Was used by a tree service and took a fall. Traded Al Smith for it and redid it. Never had to pull the top end though.
Pull 155psi today and plug is looking good to me.
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Plug is more brownish tan then pics show.
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Have you put it in some wood yet kevin? I got a couple of 2700's & they both had 20" bars on them. I have done some cutting with one, its ready to be warmed up.
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Yep with 20" .325 with to aggressive rakers. Runs great just like a 49cc should IMO.
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Was going to use this new 3.0 for my 335 cly with 3450 piston project. But the saw topend is perfect.
Just the usual impulse line broke in 2 places and fuel line broke.
(http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g289/doemaster789/415/p3450x3p30p475%20006_zpsqacyrsjz.jpg) (http://s59.photobucket.com/user/doemaster789/media/415/p3450x3p30p475%20006_zpsqacyrsjz.jpg.html)
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craftsman 49cc running.
My idea wouldnt have worked anyway Roger. Somebody had put that new 54cc piston in #3 3450 in backwards and fubarred it (beat or wore locating ring pin and allowed ring to go 360 degree around piston) . IMO the reason for the scuffs on it. Pics will be in the 330 3450 thread.
Impulse black, tank vent nearest carb and fuel line rear.
(http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g289/doemaster789/2171372BB372/3450x3-3.0%20002_zpscnszqjva.jpg) (http://s59.photobucket.com/user/doemaster789/media/2171372BB372/3450x3-3.0%20002_zpscnszqjva.jpg.html)
(http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g289/doemaster789/2171372BB372/3450x3-3.0%20004_zpsaizaewpc.jpg) (http://s59.photobucket.com/user/doemaster789/media/2171372BB372/3450x3-3.0%20004_zpsaizaewpc.jpg.html)
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Oh well there is always another one around the corner.
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I set one of these up with the rim drum and 3/8 7 today with a 16" 3/8LP bar and chain. Pretty nice cutting.
See what new owner thinks when he picks it up.
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I set one of these up with the rim drum and 3/8 7 today with a 16" 3/8LP bar and chain. Pretty nice cutting.
See what new owner thinks when he picks it up.
I have a 335 with that set up on it. I like it that way. I took a sprocket nose bar that was .325 and changed it to .375.
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I set one of these up with the rim drum and 3/8 7 today with a 16" 3/8LP bar and chain. Pretty nice cutting.
See what new owner thinks when he picks it up.
Is that the 530048083 drum ?
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I set one of these up with the rim drum and 3/8 7 today with a 16" 3/8LP bar and chain. Pretty nice cutting.
See what new owner thinks when he picks it up.
Is that the 530048083 drum ?
Yep http://chainsawrepair.createaforum.com/poulan/poulan-rim-set-up-clutch-drum/
Guy traded up saw size and this was only way I could use the new bar chain I had sold him on the smaller saw without having to buy a 325 set up.
Was one of my saws I set up for myself. Using that drum set up. So now I am 4 short. :'(
He had ask me what saws were for sale. I told him I aint married to any chainsaw. :P
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Craftsman 3.0 same cc as poulan 3000 PP305. But 3.0 is in bare bore, chromed piston.
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That looks like a candidate for the 335 set up.
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That looks like a candidate for the 335 set up.
I either sold or traded my 335 set up off to a member here.
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Guy sent me a text and loves this set up above.
First saw I sent out set up on the 40:1 poulan synthetic mix too.
Noticed when he was here it was using Super Tech universal mix. I told him and showed him how to mix it at 40:1 also with his bulk mix bottle.
Guessing that is dino oil?
(http://i5.walmartimages.com/dfw/dce07b8c-1186/k2-_43de0a4e-4404-4c4d-8444-0256defc5ce6.v1.jpg)
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Craftsman 3.0 same cc as poulan 3000 PP305. But 3.0 is in bare bore, chromed piston.
I see you got your hands on one !!
Not a bad little saw !
Very strong when ported too !
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Craftsman 3.0 same cc as poulan 3000 PP305. But 3.0 is in bare bore, chromed piston.
I see you got your hands on one !!
Not a bad little saw !
Very strong when ported too !
I've had that one for awhile now. Had 2 and still got a like new looking one.
See if I can find year I traded for first one. = Summer 2011 so had it a while now.
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Craftsman 3.3 3.0 2.8 poulan 2700 2800 3000 3300 poulan pro 305 335 tanks
Dropped off today for a leak.
Never seen one leaking from the actual tank seam before. I was figuring around the lines or duckbill valve through tank vent line.
Using what I used in past with good results on other redneck repairs. SealAll
Will know tomorrow if I got it without removing the tank. :-\
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Had to pull tank today. Leaking still past where I stopped on top under carb area. I plugged both lines and filled up to see.
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Does anyone know the difference in the type 1 early and type 2 later rear handle tanks on these?
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Sorry do not know.
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Seen a IPL refer to t-1 t-2 on the tanks. Not the saws themselves. So was wondering if rubber to spring av and maybe the tank vents was a change or not on the small tanks like on 3.3 3300 3.0 etc.
Never seen one if so on these yet.
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I pulled small intake etc off. Tank already pulled.
I test fit a 3450 3750 330 380 tank. It all slipped right in. Using new updated coil spring front av, the old rubber av with nut on end through case.
Seems bigger carb, bigger intake, with the 3450 carb linkage might all be a go. Was short a pair of updated carb bolts to try it all out. Didnt want to pull them off the other 3450 project that just needs seals and oiler.
Poulan 530049562 STUD CARB. MT $1.30 $1.30
Poulan 530049273 BRACKET CARB $1.04 $1.04
Poulan 530049465 BRACKET INTAK $1.04 $1.04
Poulan 530069487 Gasket Kit $5.71 $5.71
Poulan 530069384 Anti-Vibration Kit $5.84 $5.84
7/6 update. Just dawned on me about using the old air filter type with the new carb bolt style. Need to see if it works.
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Had changed my mind. The PP365 tank went on the craftsman today with small carb and intake.
Put the 3450 big intake, big carb and tank on 365.
3.0 up and cutting again. 365 has tank on just not buttoned up before I got the supper bell.
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Had changed my mind. The PP365 tank went on the craftsman today with small carb and intake.
Put the 3450 big intake, big carb and tank on 365.
3.0 up and cutting again. 365 has tank on just not buttoned up before I got the supper bell.
So you have a 365 set up basically like the 3750.
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Had changed my mind. The PP365 tank went on the craftsman today with small carb and intake.
Put the 3450 big intake, big carb and tank on 365.
3.0 up and cutting again. 365 has tank on just not buttoned up before I got the supper bell.
So you have a 365 set up basically like the 3750.
Yes c&i tank, but will be 365 covers and filter.
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Nice.
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3.0 3.3 2.8 3300 3000 305 335 2800 2700 will all take the 365 3500 330 380 3750 3450 tanks if need me. Can even run the small intake and small carb with the 330 tank set up IMO if you still wanted.
3.0 GREY one with 365 tank with small carb and intake. Just need the small tank air filter cover brace.
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Had someone asking for pics of the grey craftsman poulans I took on trade. The one with cover if correct for saw comes back to 49cc 3.0. Other one no clue yet without measuring.
Did find a nice surprise on the one with no cover. Pulled and put in bin. New HDA164 carb. 8)
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Hi - hoping someone can help me. I have a Craftsman 358.356070-3.0 unit where I need to replace the starter pull rope. I took apart the starter pulley, but the starter spring moved. Does anyone have any photos on how the spring is supposed to be positioned before installer the starter pulley? (Maybe a pic?) Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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I dont have any pics on hand. If spring is still in recoil. Just put the pulley back in. The pulley should set in the and align itself if I recall right on these. Always slowly release the spring tension before removing the pulley.
Here is the IPL. http://www.klippo.com/ddoc/POUI/POUI2000_USen/POUI2000_USen__530066768.pdf
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Pulled this for a member. Just in case they may want it or need it for their project. 44mm something bore roughly. Thinking that makes it 49cc 3.0 chrome piston with bare bore. Uses 2 think rings.
Some I swear I seen with 1 think.
Chip on the top fin missing. Wont hurt squat. Didnt notice it till pulling it today.
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Dag nab enablers not helping me to sell off my poulan stuff :D. Couldnt say no to this bare bore 49cc.