Chainsaw Repair
Husqvarna - Stihl - Poulan - Jonsered - Dolmar chainsaws and more => Husqvarna => Topic started by: snowdog333 on April 30, 2017, 07:24:37 pm
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Hello. I'm new to the forum and am hoping that one of the experts here can help me with an issue that I'm having with my 1982 Husqvarna 266SE. The saw has been having issues with the starter cord being extremely difficult to pull. It's so difficult that I can't turn the motor over quickly enough to start it. I've had this problem before and brought the saw to a local shop. When I asked what the issue was they just said they cleaned it, whatever that means. I would like to be able to repair the saw myself if I can because I've already made two trips to the shop with it for the same problem. Not planning on going back to that shop or any other if I can avoid it.
I've tried to isolate the problem and I've found that even with the muffler and chain brake assembly completely removed there is no change in the amount of resistance in the pull cord. I also removed the pull cord assembly to see if it had issues. It pulls easily when removed from the saw. The last thing that I did was remove the spark plug. With the plug removed the cord is easy to pull. This saw does not have a compression release valve if anyone is wondering.
When the saw ran it ran well without problems but would have the pull cord issue after sitting.
I would appreciate any help on this. Thanks for reading my post.
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If the problem is only after the saw sits a length of time it could be hydralocking Oil in cylinder if you remove the plug and crank for awhile to clear any oil or fuel how does it pull over then
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Hello Pete. Thanks for the suggestion. Sorry for the late reply. I removed the spark plug and cranked the saw several times but there wasn't any change. The cord is still extremely difficult to pull. I also removed the cover on the side of the saw and cleaned the area around the flywheel and checked for any obstructions. No change. The saw has had this exact same issue before but I don't know what the shop did to fix it. I would contact them and ask but the owner has since retired and I doubt that he would remember. Any ideas?
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I know its a long time since the last reply but have you checked to see if the coil is binding on the flywheel?
It could also be a clutch or brake issue.
at the very worst it might be a crank bearing or piston issue it this is unlikely
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Hello HUSKY KEV and thank you for your suggestions. It's been a little while since I've done anything more with the chainsaw, but I do remember checking the flywheel after removing the side cover and there wasn't anything obstructing it. As for a possible clutch or brake issue, any suggestions on how to troubleshoot those? I don't have a lot of experience with chainsaws but appreciate your help.
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Sorry for the long absence. I've done some research and tried various things to rule out potential problems. When the spark plug is removed the cord is easy to pull. With the plug in, it's next to impossible. I've removed the pull cord assembly and it pulls easily without issue. Even with the bar/chain and muffler removed, the cord is hard to pull when the plug is in the saw.
I've also tried removing the plug and spraying WD-40 into the cylinder through the spark plug hole to clean any carbon etc. from the top of the piston and cylinder. No change. I also removed the plug and pulled the cord repeatedly for a period of time to correct a potential vapor lock condition. That was a suggestion that I found on the internet.
The only other thing that I wanted to mention is that when I pull the cord with the plug removed, there is a fine spray of fuel that comes out of the spark plug hole. I don't know a lot about 2-cycle engines, but I didn't expect the fuel to be drawn into the cylinder when the compression is so low without the plug being removed.
I did take the saw to a local shop twice in the past and was told that they "cleaned it." Unfortunately whatever they did didn't last after the saw sat for an extended period of time.
I got the saw running without the bar/chain for a brief period of time but it died after a few seconds if I didn't give it throttle.
Not sure if links are allowed, but the saw in this YouTube video is doing the same exact thing that mine is.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9aKmxVWgRK8
I would appreciate any advice to get this saw in working condition again. Thank you very much for reading my post!
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If I didn't mention it before, I checked the flywheel and there isn't anything blocking or binding it. I also cleaned the areas around it and the clutch assembly very thoroughly.
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Time to pull the muffler and tell us if you see damage on the piston from inside the exhaust port.
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Thanks for the tip. I removed the muffler and looked at the piston through the exhaust port. It looks clean and smooth. Cord is hard to pull with plug installed when muffler and the bar/chain are completely removed, along with the chain brake assembly.
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I myself own a 266xp without decomp and it's just a bear to start cold since it has alot of compression.. warm is a little easier.
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Hate to say, or ask this but I wonder what the age of the OP is? We get plenty of older guys come into the store complaining that a saw is "hard to pull over" and there must be something wrong with it. Sadly, the problem is that these guys have reached a point where they can no longer snap the rope enough to start the saw. Kind of a delicate thing to communicate to the customer without offending them. Whether we start the saw or ask them to try it, you don't want to make them feel like crap. Best to say "we" are all getting older. This problem is worse for someone who might go a long time between saw use, vs someone who runs a saw all the time.
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Hate to say, or ask this but I wonder what the age of the OP is? We get plenty of older guys come into the store complaining that a saw is "hard to pull over" and there must be something wrong with it. Sadly, the problem is that these guys have reached a point where they can no longer snap the rope enough to start the saw. Kind of a delicate thing to communicate to the customer without offending them. Whether we start the saw or ask them to try it, you don't want to make them feel like crap. Best to say "we" are all getting older. This problem is worse for someone who might go a long time between saw use, vs someone who runs a saw all the time.
Dad just gave me his farm use saw due to such 2 winters ago. Age and bad shoulder caught up to him.
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Yep I used to see it when I was working part time in a shop. People would bring in a saw and all it needed was someone who could pull it over real good.
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Hate to say, or ask this but I wonder what the age of the OP is? We get plenty of older guys come into the store complaining that a saw is "hard to pull over" and there must be something wrong with it. Sadly, the problem is that these guys have reached a point where they can no longer snap the rope enough to start the saw. Kind of a delicate thing to communicate to the customer without offending them. Whether we start the saw or ask them to try it, you don't want to make them feel like crap. Best to say "we" are all getting older. This problem is worse for someone who might go a long time between saw use, vs someone who runs a saw all the time.
Dad just gave me his farm use saw due to such 2 winters ago. Age and bad shoulder caught up to him.
It's gonna catch us all. Did you come up with an alternative for him? Soomething smaller and easier to start. My Dad is 90 and can still start the 350 I leave at his house. Some customers have gone the battery route. The little 120i runs with only the smallest gas saws, but it does more work than a saw that they can't get going. Keeps the guys out and active too.
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Hate to say, or ask this but I wonder what the age of the OP is? We get plenty of older guys come into the store complaining that a saw is "hard to pull over" and there must be something wrong with it. Sadly, the problem is that these guys have reached a point where they can no longer snap the rope enough to start the saw. Kind of a delicate thing to communicate to the customer without offending them. Whether we start the saw or ask them to try it, you don't want to make them feel like crap. Best to say "we" are all getting older. This problem is worse for someone who might go a long time between saw use, vs someone who runs a saw all the time.
Dad just gave me his farm use saw due to such 2 winters ago. Age and bad shoulder caught up to him.
It's gonna catch us all. Did you come up with an alternative for him? Soomething smaller and easier to start. My Dad is 90 and can still start the 350 I leave at his house. Some customers have gone the battery route. The little 120i runs with only the smallest gas saws, but it does more work than a saw that they can't get going. Keeps the guys out and active too.
A battery pole saw, easy start trim saw. Then if need 50cc and bigger, I go down with saws start saw for him and we both do work with 2 saws.
Enjoyed that this fall opening back up a old logging road together. At the end setting on a big log and just talking about things.
Standing on this old logging road on another hill I tried to take a pic across to other hill showing the log etc. Hard to tell on first to pics.
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SOLUTION is here.
The problem is in the aging pull cord. As the cord is pulled the normal compression in the cylinder increases the resistive force which tightens the cord inside the wheel and it jams with the lower circle of the cord.
I just tore my Husky 44 into pieces, but it turned out that just replacing the cord fixed this. I had the exact same problem as described here, really easy to pull when the plug was removed, but when it is installed impossible to start the saw. This seems to be problem that can occur with many brand saws. No wonder the fix is quite general.
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Yeah, sometimes the old cord can get so stiff it just doesn't work anymore. Did you replace the cord with the same size as what was in there? Could be that the cord was replaced with the wrong size at some point. What you describe about the cord jamming itself is most often due to a crackked starter pulley. Fairly common on 200 series saws like the 266. The pulley spreads were the crack is and allows the cord to double up and jam. Not good at retracting either.