Chainsaw Repair

Husqvarna - Stihl - Poulan - Jonsered - Dolmar chainsaws and more => Jonsered => Topic started by: sibur on June 13, 2012, 07:26:59 am


Title: Jonsered 2159
Post by: sibur on June 13, 2012, 07:26:59 am
I have owned a number of chain saws over the years and this saw had the shortest lifespan, at the very most 6 chord of firewood. I was useing fresh gas proper oil mix etc. , I ran the saw 5 min and it stopped suddenly. I took it back to the dealer, he said it didn't sound right when he pulled the starter rope, I left it for him to look at and he called me later and said the saw was burned up and not worth fixing. I went back and picked up the saw and had to pay him $31 for his diagnosis.

Are Jonsered saws junk? I have a Stihl that is over 20yrs old and still running, I bought the Jonsered because I had heard that they were suppose to be good saws. I don't know if I should try and repair the saw or just toss it in the trash.
Title: Re: Jonsered CS2159C toast
Post by: nmurph on June 13, 2012, 07:48:45 am
Sloooooooooooowwww down. Your Jred is a Husqvarna 359 which is a fine saw. This series of of saw does have a couple of know defects which have been corrected over the years of production. Do you know what year your saw was produced? You can look at the ID plate and give us the numbers. Besides the design defects, there is always to possibility of a **** fuel line or loose bolt.
Title: Re: Jonsered CS2159C toast
Post by: farmboy on June 13, 2012, 12:41:59 pm
Don't throw it in the trash.  I'll pay shipping on it and your diagnosis fee from dealer.  I have 3-359's been very good to me.  Would like a red one though.  I'd say repair it.  The cyl will probably clean up with some muratic acid.  A new Meteor piston ($32-35.00), new kit w/ metal intake boot clamp ($15.00), new fuel line & filter ($10.00), some time and elbow grease and it should be up and running.  If you decide to fix it we will be glad to guide/help you in any way we can. 
Shep
Title: Re: Jonsered CS2159C toast
Post by: sibur on June 13, 2012, 02:50:25 pm
The s/n 966 24 07-00 070100 134, It may be an 07 model ? I would like to fix it if possible. I was disapointed to say the least, when it burned up. The dealer was not very helpful, granted  it is out of warranty but he never bothered to ask if I would like to purchase a new saw, he just said it wasn't worth fixing. If I can purchase a new piston and rings clean up the cylinder and get it running for $100, I would love to fix it. I have never had to do much to my other saws except, replace/sharpen chains, rebuild a carb etc.
Title: Re: Jonsered CS2159C toast
Post by: Cut4fun . on June 13, 2012, 04:16:46 pm
Figure out what burned your saw up first. Then clean up cylinder etc if usable.

 Here is some 2159 husky 359 parts to look at.  http://northwoodsaw.com/store/index.php?l=search_list&s[search]=2159&s[title]=Y&s[short_desc]=Y&s[full_desc]=Y&s[sku]=Y&s[match]=all&s[cid]=0

Lot of dealers are into selling new saws and not so much into doing repairs and most dealers charge around $60 a hour labor if they do.
Title: Re: Jonsered CS2159C toast
Post by: sibur on June 13, 2012, 04:59:09 pm
Thanks, I'm not really sure what caused the saw to burn up, the gas/oil mixture was fresh. The dealer said ethanol in the gas could have caused the problem. I did not use ethanol treatment in the gas. Do you think this may have caused the saw to run hot and gaul the piston/ring? The saw ran about 10 to 15 minutes before it quit. I will inspect the cylinder and see if it looks salvageable. Any other suggestions? I've been reading that the Meteror Pistons are a good aftermarket brand.
Title: Re: Jonsered CS2159C toast
Post by: mdavlee on June 13, 2012, 05:17:20 pm
It should be repairable if it only happened on that last tank of mix. If it's that old the fuel line or intake boot could have had a hole in it and leaned it out. Post pictures of the cylinder if you think it might not be salvageable. More than likely it will be unless it's got big gouges in it.
Title: Re: Jonsered CS2159C toast
Post by: sibur on June 13, 2012, 05:27:33 pm
ok, I'll check out the fuel line and intake boot and get pictures of the cylinder.
Title: Re: Jonsered CS2159C toast
Post by: nmurph on June 13, 2012, 05:47:31 pm
It is likely this saw has the plastic clamp. Husky made the change in the early '06 model and it usually takes some time bf Jred follows suit.
Title: Re: Jonsered CS2159C toast
Post by: Cut4fun . on June 13, 2012, 09:08:56 pm
359 = 2159

Somethings that could have been shared with you IF your dealer was aware of them.

SB, 357 XP, 359, 353, 346 XP,
Partition wall and clamp for intake system,
2006-03
The existing intake system on 357XP, 359,353 and 346XP currently consists of an integrated plastic clamp in the partition wall. As the clamp is made of plastic, there is a risk of deformation. This results in impaired clamping force against the cylinder, which in turn can result in leakage in the intake system. To prevent this from occurring, we have now introduced a metal clamp and a new partition wall.

The new partition wall is made up of polyamide with 30 % fibre glass.
The new clamp is a hardened steel clamp. The new material and the design of the clamp reduce the risk of deformation and the subsequent risk of leakage.

Full replaceability prevails.
Introduced from serial number:
357XP 061100201
359 061100001
353 061100001
346XP 061100001

New part no. Description Excl. part. no. Remark
537 25 13-02 Partition wall, intake, complete New spare part
537 43 88-01 Clamp, intake New spare part

Spare part, partition wall, part number 537 25 13-01, has been discontinued and is replaced by part number 537 25 13-02.





SB, 357 XP, 359, Introduction of new carburetor for better idling stability,
2008-10

To achieve better idling quality, a new carburetor has been introduced in the production. The new name of the carburetor is Zama C3-EL42, replacing Walbro HDA199A/B and HDA191A.

New part number for the carb is 505203001.

Also, requires a different flange, part number 503928502.

Introduced from serial numbers:
357XP 083800001
359 084500001
Title: Re: Jonsered CS2159C toast
Post by: sibur on June 14, 2012, 08:30:34 am
Lots of good informaion on this site. Could anyone tell me a good place to get a repair manual ?
Title: Re: Jonsered CS2159C toast
Post by: 660magnum on June 14, 2012, 08:57:11 am
Here's the illustrated parts list for the Husqvarna 357/359  2007

www.husqvarna.com/ddoc/HUSI/HUSI2007_AAaa/HUSI2007_AAaa__5010031-01.pdf
Title: Re: Jonsered CS2159C toast
Post by: 660magnum on June 14, 2012, 09:02:03 am
The workshop manual is 2.4mb  I found one by searching with Google. You will go through many leads for many of them are just owner's manuals.

You will be more successful looking for the Husqvarna 357/359 workshop manual

www.gardening-tools-direct.co.uk/content/husqwm270_hwen2000_1019117-26.pdf
Title: Re: Jonsered CS2159C toast
Post by: sibur on June 14, 2012, 10:17:39 am
Does the caburator have to be removed before removeing the cylinder?
Title: Re: Jonsered CS2159C toast
Post by: 660magnum on June 14, 2012, 10:21:46 am
I remove the carb then lift the cylinder and the intake boot as one assembly.
Title: Re: Jonsered CS2159C toast
Post by: SawTroll on June 26, 2012, 12:08:14 pm
It is likely this saw has the plastic clamp. Husky made the change in the early '06 model and it usually takes some time bf Jred follows suit.

I believe it happened at the same time in this case, so the saw likely has the new clamp, but not the Zama carb.

Title: Re: Jonsered 2159
Post by: Cut4fun . on February 16, 2019, 11:36:36 am
Just had a nice looking jonsered 2159 dropped off in box with issues. First thing I noticed was plastic intake clamp still.
Title: Re: Jonsered 2159
Post by: Cut4fun . on February 16, 2019, 03:26:30 pm
Super nice low hour IMO jonsered 2159 dropped off today. Piston + cylinder all look new. Psi was good to go.
Checked coil and got spark after some cleaning on mags on fly. Shortened up the new fuel line someone had just done. Fires off mix squirted in, but not pulling from tank. Going to pull carb for rebuild and check impulse line.
Plastic clamp still tight. If mine I would be popping it off for update. Told him to keep a eye on it and what to look for.

Title: Re: Jonsered 2159
Post by: Cut4fun . on February 17, 2019, 12:47:19 pm
https://walbro.force.com/parts/comm_partsservicedetails?partId=a0Fo000000V5C6OEAV

https://youtu.be/fBMIMoWw4B0
Title: Re: Jonsered 2159
Post by: Cut4fun . on February 17, 2019, 01:12:36 pm
IPL https://www.m-jardin.fr/wp-content/documentation/jonsered/tronconneuses/2159.pdf
Title: Re: Jonsered 2159
Post by: Cut4fun . on February 17, 2019, 02:39:46 pm
 Thanks to Scott Kunz and his video I got this carb done right. Plus drilled the hole he talks about.  Shes running cutting again. Had wrong type check valve side in it too.

 can see the drill hole. Scott said do not run the blue check valve side in these. What someone had put in it. Tan in it now.

Title: Jonsered 2159
Post by: trail twister on August 13, 2020, 09:23:37 am
Isn't pumping bar oil the way it should. Or should I say oil isn't getting to the bar as it should.

I need information on testing trhe pump once I get the clutch off and do not find a hole in the resivor to the pump line?

Al
Title: Re: J red 2159.
Post by: ray benson on August 14, 2020, 08:52:52 am

 Haven't worked on one. But here is a link to the service manual.
http://www.mediafire.com/file/z5unwzsu0741hu4/file
Title: Re: Jonsered 2159
Post by: 3000 FPS on August 15, 2020, 12:27:52 pm
You should be able to pull the bar and chain off and start the saw and see if there is oil coming out where the oiler hole is.   
Title: Re: Jonsered 2159
Post by: Spike60 on August 17, 2020, 05:58:55 am
Yup, running the saw without the bar and chain tells you right away if the saw is pumping oil or not. Those pumps rarely fail. The 2 common issues if it's the saw are the pump drive gear or the oil pick up screen coming off in the tank allowing sawdust to clog up the line. Both require pulling the clutch and all to fix.
Title: Re: Jonsered 2159
Post by: Cut4fun . on December 21, 2021, 06:58:35 am
I gave it 24hrs after showing folks on my CRG FB and good deal on a jonsered 2159.

Lunch time next day I said heck with it and bought the low hour saw myself. Will prob just flip it.

Only draw back was it is the CAT muffler model. Which that is a easy remedy.

Title: Re: Jonsered 2159
Post by: Cut4fun on December 22, 2021, 08:08:35 am
Everything checks out.  Appears they were running good red oil. Just not sure on gas but no water in it.

Could tell running wrong style of bar nuts on clutch cover.

Guessing these later came with the Zama carbs. Still even had the epa stops.

Tighten that pull rope up and get that blasted dealer sticker off that top cover.

Most wear I have ever seen on Tsu rails before.  Tip same way. They must never dressed them.



Title: Re: Jonsered 2159
Post by: Cut4fun on December 22, 2021, 08:39:52 am
Manual specs

504 70 64 01
503 91 75 04
503 91 75-01

Title: Re: Jonsered 2159
Post by: Cut4fun . on December 23, 2021, 12:45:50 pm
Just overlook my hack ways 😂.  Removing the tube and opening top and through a CAT husky muffler.

I can’t weld on mufflers so no cutting top deflector off to make it easy.

Now trying to decide if I should still gill both sides where I have them marked.

Title: Re: Jonsered 2159
Post by: Cut4fun . on December 23, 2021, 12:47:38 pm
I said duck it. Both sides gill

Why oh why. Then they sold them with open mufflers too. 🤪

CAT drilled and tube removed. Now to test and tune later.

Triple exits now.

Pic don’t do justice for the like new witness lines still on piston



Title: Re: Jonsered 2159
Post by: Cut4fun . on December 28, 2021, 09:27:03 am
I think I know why that Tsumura bar had so much bar rail and tip wear now. Compared to other of those bars I have had and took on trade.  The bar oil tank looks like all it ever had in it was a thinner hydraulic oil. Red and don’t smell like trans fluid. Not red bar oil or even close to bar oil.

Also when filling up noticed a fuel leak on side. That newer style tank vent was popped out.

Also when done after dressing bar some for testing. I found this white round plastic ball on bench when took saw off.  Learned there was like 3 different tank vents used.  Early then this one then later used now. This one and later now same but different insides. Middle one like this one used the ball, disc, puck front.  Later uses the brass now.