Chainsaw Repair

I little something to remember about salvaging a screwed up piston .Unless it's a huge void a low spot won't hurt you .A high spot will break the surface tension of the oil film and will ruin your day .

If somebody is going to try my half azzed fix don't even think about running 50 to 1 oil ratio .This is one area where you need the extra oil .

I saw that one but it's for the CP 125 and has the bearings in the piston and I think is a cast iron bore. Not sure if those rings are compatible with a crome bore. The one I am resurecting is a SP 125C. I read someplace that you can swap rods in some cases and get it to work.  I have a new set of rings coming in hopes that will be enough.

well I think I got lucky on this one.  Found a NOS piton and rod assembly for $72.00 with shipping.  It was sold as a 101 cart piston with no PN.  Looked just like what I needed and it is.  I think that old beast will live on.

According to the shop manual 105-110 inch pounds,oiled bolt .However according to SAE on grade 8 bolts 10-32 it's 62 inch pounds.They might be a higher grade than 8 though .

It's a hard bolt going into a sintered metal rod so the higher torque might apply .Trivia:the "**** rod " was developed by McCulloch motors and is standard practice today on most automotive engines .

If the gasket is a little stiff sealant is okay .If it's supple,in my opinion it doesn't need sealant .

The Homelite SXL-AO I tore down the other day has that **** rod setup.  Probably early 1970's production.  I'd mostly been seeing them in the large frame Macs (mid 1960's production) that I've had apart.