Author Topic: mac 10-10a  (Read 4027 times)

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Offline chainsman1

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mac 10-10a
« on: March 15, 2011, 07:19:12 am »
here is my old mac 10-10

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Offline Al Smith

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Re: mac 10-10a
« Reply #1 on: March 15, 2011, 07:44:38 am »
 ;D Sounds good .I think I have 4 or 5 that run .Some left hand start,some right hand .One I think is the last year of production and looks nearly brand new .

Offline chainsman1

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Re: mac 10-10a
« Reply #2 on: March 15, 2011, 08:39:33 pm »
good to know im not the only one havin a 10-10 still running

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Offline man of stihl

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Re: mac 10-10a
« Reply #3 on: March 15, 2011, 08:43:29 pm »
i've got two also. i enjoy running them. and hearing them ;)
Ron

Offline chainsman1

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Re: mac 10-10a
« Reply #4 on: March 15, 2011, 10:07:58 pm »
are you guys still have the entire mufflers? all 10-10 ive seen on the net only has the bottom piece.

mine has alle the muffler except for the cover,it is a drilled plate

Offline Al Smith

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Re: mac 10-10a
« Reply #5 on: March 15, 2011, 11:06:54 pm »
There's a couple of different styles ,depending on when they were  made . Yes though speaking for myself they are all intact .

Offline Al Smith

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Re: mac 10-10a
« Reply #6 on: March 16, 2011, 11:42:47 am »
The 10 series evolved a little as time went on .They all had a porting method that as far as I know was only used my McCulloch being a kind of closed bottom yet opened groove type thing through a windowed pistons .

The earlier versions used three of these grooves so designed as to somewhat change in velocity and direction of scavanging depending upon where they were at in the transfer cycle .Most used unpinned rings and a bridged exhaust with a full skirt .

Later designs used unbridged exhausts, a cut skirt windowed piston and only two transfer grooves .

How the whole thing works is much easier to explain if one has the occasion  to see a piston inside of a cylinder rather than trying to explain it over the internet .

Because of the fact the only logical method to raise the comp would be a removable head I never delved much more than some mild port work on the exhaust of these things to enhance them .However were it in the cards I believe a set of narrow fingers off the most intake side  transfer groove could enhance them just a tad bit .



Offline mcbob

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Re: mac 10-10a
« Reply #7 on: March 16, 2011, 05:31:46 pm »
I had a Danarm 55 i think very very similier to the 10-10 it had a removable head trust the Poms to make a simple design complicated

McBob.
I am a idiot so my pics disappeared.

Offline man of stihl

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Re: mac 10-10a
« Reply #8 on: March 16, 2011, 05:53:09 pm »
The 10 series evolved a little as time went on .They all had a porting method that as far as I know was only used my McCulloch being a kind of closed bottom yet opened groove type thing through a windowed pistons .

The earlier versions used three of these grooves so designed as to somewhat change in velocity and direction of scavanging depending upon where they were at in the transfer cycle .Most used unpinned rings and a bridged exhaust with a full skirt .

Later designs used unbridged exhausts, a cut skirt windowed piston and only two transfer grooves .

How the whole thing works is much easier to explain if one has the occasion  to see a piston inside of a cylinder rather than trying to explain it over the internet .

Because of the fact the only logical method to raise the comp would be a removable head I never delved much more than some mild port work on the exhaust of these things to enhance them .However were it in the cards I believe a set of narrow fingers off the most intake side  transfer groove could enhance them just a tad bit .
i have seen on occasion a 10-10 piston 30 thou over. do you bore the sleeve or did they make a cylinder to match the over sized piston?
Ron

Offline Al Smith

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Re: mac 10-10a
« Reply #9 on: March 16, 2011, 06:33:19 pm »
On the early 10-10's you could bore them out because they had an iron sleeve cast in the block .Fact is I think I have a 700 block too which has an iron sleeve .I'll trot out to the shed in a tad and take a peek .If not I'll sound out later .

 I don't recall ever seeing over sized pistons for them but I really wasn't looking for one either and could have overlooked that  .

As far as a plated cylinder you would only have basically two choices .Replating or a cast iron sleeve .The plating or reboring would be costly .

As far as a sleeve I can do it ,have done and will do on that 805 . The problem because of the style of porting is the fact the transfer ports must first be partly cut through the sleeve prior to installation .Finished once in place .Cylinder honed to about 3 thou clearance of the piston skirt .

Actually I kind of look forward to it .Once I'm done it will be the second example shown on the internet of salvaging a saw engine using this method .--never say die --- ;D