Author Topic: Square Grinders (Read 99078 times)

3000 FPS · « **Reply #70 on:** February 26, 2013, 01:31:14 am »

I was practicing on a 3/8ths oregon chain and could not keep it out of the tie straps. But I felt pretty comfortable with the angles so I took a 3/8ths stihl chain off of one of my saws and starting sharpening it and had no problems at all with it coming into contact with the tie straps. So the cutter on the stihl chain must be taller than on this particular oregon chain. Tomorrow I will cut some practice pieces with the chain to see how it performs.

660magnum · « **Reply #71 on:** February 26, 2013, 02:08:22 am »

My experience has been with 3/8" Oregon LGX and Stihl RS. These were originally round ground chisel chains. I didn't see much set-up difference?

Oregon made some 76LG 3/8" chain with a lighter frame and the cutter was a little lower at one time? Maybe you got into some of that?

There was some corresponding Stihl chain at one time also.

660magnum · « **Reply #72 on:** February 26, 2013, 03:05:04 am »

For the record, here are links to the Madsen's tutorials

Square grinding Q&A
http://www.madsens1.com/bnc_chisel_qna.htm

Angles
http://www.madsens1.com/bnc_cb_angles.htm

Square filing
http://www.madsens1.com/bnc_filing_cb.htm

3000 FPS · « **Reply #73 on:** February 26, 2013, 11:14:46 am »

I will try and get my wife to take a picture of the chain I sharpened last night. It was 3/8ths stihl round ground and I square ground it. Her camera will do good close ups mine will not and I already tried but the pics looks like crap.

mdavlee · « **Reply #74 on:** February 26, 2013, 06:28:44 pm »

I don't worry about getting into the tie straps unless it's over 1/3 of the way to the rivet. I've never broken one on ported 90 cc saws and a stock 3120.

3000 FPS · « **Reply #75 on:** February 26, 2013, 07:12:24 pm »

Thanks for the reply. I had seen alot of the pictures you have taken and was wondering about it. Like anything else I am sure there are the pros and cons.

Cut4fun · « **Reply #76 on:** February 26, 2013, 07:33:21 pm »

For faster square. I was always told you have to get into the tie strap to get the angle you want. Hand filing and I seen this with my faster machine square chains too.

3000 FPS · « **Reply #77 on:** February 26, 2013, 08:57:51 pm »

This is my first square grind. The picture is just so so. Give some critics of what you see wrong.

660magnum · « **Reply #78 on:** February 26, 2013, 09:21:25 pm »

That is a pretty good looking chain to me. The Mrs. did a good job taking the picture.

Looks as though you had the chain mount forward? The inner angles are sharp. Looks like you did the gullets too.

How does it do in the wood?

Seemed to me that with the sharper angles, the chain cuts good but absorbs more power too. I had a 20" CL chain on a 76cc 372 and you had to push
on the chain to keep the rpm down.

I took a 60DL LGX and ATOP'd it. The rakers turned out to be about 030. It cut good but you had to let the chain feed itself. The Atop makes inner angles about like yours.

3000 FPS · « **Reply #79 on:** February 26, 2013, 10:00:17 pm »

The chain cut very well but I think I had the rakers just alittle low for the hard wood I was testing it on.
This same chain on some pine would work very well.

The sharp angles are one of the things that always impressed me about square grind so yes I had it completely
forward. I like it when the chain just kind of self feeds into the wood. This one will do that.

I would like to get another wheel and dress it alittle different and see how it works.

By the way how does that salmon wheel come off. I see the big nut on the bottom but what do you use to hold
the armature of the motor from turning to get the nut broke loose.

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Author Topic: Square Grinders (Read 99078 times)

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