Chainsaw Repair

Ok. I will pull the jug and see what there is to see. 

Will it be obvious if the piston is hitting the squish band? 

Well, the first order of business is to try the saw without the clutch.

I removed the bar, chain, clutch, sprocket, bearing and oil pump drive gear.  I then ran the saw.  I warmed it up for a while, revved it a bunch and couldnt hear any noise.  I put the clutch back on, with no bar and chain, and the noise instantly returned.  I repeated the removal, and no more noise.  The noise in the video is definitely coming from the clutch. 

Without the clutch installed, the engine sounds completely normal to me. 

How common is this?  I inspected the clutch, and none of the springs are broken.   The clutch is the 3 coil spring type.

Baileys lists both the coil spring clutch and (spreader?) spring clutch.  Not sure what those are called.  The coil spring clutch is cheaper.  Which should i get? 

Here they are:
http://www.baileysonline.com/itemdetail.asp?item=QH+53710+3403&catID=
http://www.baileysonline.com/itemdetail.asp?item=HVP+537+10+34+03&catID=

The part numbers are the same, so maybe the pictures are not accurate.

Also, do i need to replace the drum while i am doing the clutch?

I will replace the bearing and probably the sprocket.  I also have a crack in the oil drive gear so i will replace that. 

I've decided that i'll just replace the drum and sprocket with the clutch, and hope the rattle is gone.

I'm really enjoying this repair.  I'm a hands on person, but i mostly work behind a desk as a day job.  My other hobby is cars, and i am constantly working on them.  Chainsaws are VERY simple in comparison.  But, i am really enjoying figuring out how they work.  Something about 2 stroke engines really fires me up. I'm the kind of person who doesn't really feel comfortable using something i haven't taken completely apart multiple times.

I was pretty easy on the saw without the clutch/bar/chain.  I noticed that it spooled up much quicker that way, so i would hold down WOT for maybe a second or less at a time.  I also turned out the high screw a bit just to be safe before i ran it. 

I've now decided that i'm going to keep the saw, since i've put so much time into it, and learned so much about it. In the end, i'll have a pretty nice pro saw for under 200 bucks. But the reality is, i would have paid much more just for the experience.  I'm thinking i'll buy a hard case for it and keep it in the back of my chevy full time. I'll probably do my first muffler mod on it.  Maybe i'll even experiment with porting at some point down the road. 

I'm anxious to compare this saw with my 562.  Speaking of which - will my 562 bar fit on the 357?  I know Husqvarna has different bar mount sizes (and i know the 562 is the big bar mount), but i haven't really studied the differences. 

Thanks to everyone for the help so far.  Hopefully some day i'll have the experience to return the favor. 

562 is large mount Husky (Oregon D009) 357 is (Oregon K095) small mt Husky.
Shep

The saw is fully assembled and seems to run great.  The clutch rattle is now gone, and the saw starts very easily, and revs nicely.

I just got my first tachometer, and went to tune the saw.  Previously, i set it so that it 4- stroked quite obviously.  Turned out that, i had tuned it to about 12000 RPM. 

Question is - how do i tune it now using the tach?
First i set idle to around 2700.  It isn't terribly consistent.  The revs climb and drop a little depending on how long the saw has idled.  But, it sounds normal.
Then, i turned in the H screw a little to test WOT again.  I turned it in until the saw was running at around 13,500 rpm consistently.  However, it doesn't quite sound like its 4-stroking.  Is this a problem?  The specs i read showed a max RPM of 14,000.  I never leaned it enough to go that high. 

I plan to test the saw this weekend in some oak.  I haven't yet made a cut with it.